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View Full Version : Noob question re kill switch wiring



rossrc
12th February 2009, 10:11
Hi,

On my new 2-stroke enduro bike I've removed the OEM switch gear and connected a KDX kill switch. I did this by cutting the (hopefully) correct 2 wires behind the headlight unit and using a connector block to join them to the new kill switch.
Assuming I've got the right wires, my question is... Will this cause me any problems? Do I need to waterproof the connector block (I was thinking silicone with electrical tape around it) or should I use an alternative method to connect the wires (a mate suggested soldering and shrink wrap)?

Thanks in advance

Ross

camchain
12th February 2009, 13:25
I'm certainly no electrical expert but I've just done some rewiring on my KTM. Speedo was knackered and too dear to replace I removed it plus all the wiring clutter (which was in a poor state as well) around it. I by-passed the old connections and re-wired my kill switch back to the main loom under tank. I think the main issue Re kill switches is they fail at the switch on the bar. I just re-soldered mine and the terminals inside the switch are very flimsy. The good thing about non-soldered joints is they handle vibration better.

I wanted to do the wiring job properly but I couldn't locate a source for the nice dirt bike type clear/soft waterproof connector covers. I think as long as you use a neat and tidy layer of insulation tape everything should be OK. I didn't like the thin and flimsy heat shrink stuff so I didn't bother to use it.

I found some paint-on rubber stuff that drys and apparently seals connectors very neatly, and stays flexible. Haven't tried it yet as more work to do to finalise my new loom. It's called Star Brite liquid electrical tape.
Got it from Jacar Electronics on Khyber pass rd Auckland, but you might try Dick Smith or similar.

Something else I've done is make a shield out of thick plastic bag that I wrap around main loom under fuel tank, then taping it sealed. It all now fits neatly under the main frame back bone. Should help keep the 99% of dirt, moisture and corrosion off.

rossrc
12th February 2009, 14:01
Thanks camchain for the comprehensive answer... I'll look into those options.

Cheers

Ross

rossrc
12th February 2009, 14:16
camchain,

Are these the sort of waterproof connector covers you're looking for?:

http://www.dse.co.nz/dse.shop/499385f4009b3aee273fc0a87f3b0724/Product/View/H5009

awayatc
12th February 2009, 14:21
All the kill switch does is connect ignition to earth and thus stalling the engine...
i.e the switch is an on/off connection on an earth/neutral wire.

biggest problem can be that it earths when you don't want it to,so your engine wont run....

camchain
14th February 2009, 09:56
Just need to emphasise, I'm no expert but I'd avoid soldering the joins. Can get a dry joint after time/vibration. A mate is having problems with this at the moment - hard to trouble shoot as it all looked fine. I even had this problem with a TV a few years ago, dry joints on main board. I did solder a couple of my joins but only where I had two wires into one bullet connector, crimped first. I mounted a small switch for headlight on side of headlight shroud. Less handlebar clutter, plus the whole lot comes off as one unit to run a MX type front plate. I put a GasGas dual curve ignition switch on the KTM, so mine is a bitsa too.

Good explanation Away at c. 'Dead' right, kill is open or closed circuit.
Switch on bar is a sprung metal plate under the button. When pressed, plate completes the circuit by contacting two terminals underneath. I can see how they give trouble. My terminals were loose and very flimsy. Hope you got a nice brand new KDX one Rossrc.

I couldn't see anything on that link. Had further dig around, no luck. I got some extra wire at Dick Smiff a few weeks ago. They definitely only had the ordinary skinny heat shrink. It wont hurt to use it but I was after something more substantial as dirt bike very tough duty for wiring. Managed to get some of the black proper wire cover (for longer sections covering multiple wires) from an auto sparky but no luck with proper waterproof bullet connector covering yet.

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/
"Liquid Electrical Tape" Had use keyword "insulation" to find it and unable to direct link

Product number to search is - NM2836 (also comes in red/black and other sizes)

I'll likely be using this stuff to cover some frame/earth connections etc. Probably end up doing even more - it looks like it will be fun to apply.

rossrc
15th February 2009, 16:11
Hey camchain,

If you search for H5009 on DSE it seems to bring it up (as you say, link doesn't work now)
Thanks for the extra info, will see if I can get some of that liquid tape.

camchain
16th February 2009, 08:26
Cheers rossrc, That looks promising (I should have seen prod number in link). I like the idea of a well protected, super reliable electrical system. Electrics problems can really ruin your day. Above mentioned mate had to be towed out on ride last weekend.

You've probably already seen this, but other thread on dielectric grease has some relevant info too:
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=92305&page=2

This stuff looks interesting (links from above thread):
http://www.gowifi.co.nz/products/tools/coax-seal-hand-moldable-plastic-weatherproofing-tape.html

http://www.gowifi.co.nz/products/tools/heatshrink-glue-filled-16mm-1.2m.html