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marty
17th February 2009, 20:52
I have an imported '92 Telstar Ghia wagon - the same as a Mazda 626 (even has MAZDA on the rocker cover...)

It has started eating the battery over about a 4 hour period. There are no lights left on (all the interior bulbs are now taken out), the clock doesn't show with the key off, the stereo is sitting on the bench, yet it is still drawing about 0.5A. The battery is brand new, and doesn't drop away if it is not connected to the car.

ARRGGHHH help me please!

McDuck
17th February 2009, 20:56
I have an imported '92 Telstar Ghia wagon - the same as a Mazda 626 (even has MAZDA on the rocker cover...)

It has started eating the battery over about a 4 hour period. There are no lights left on (all the interior bulbs are now taken out), the clock doesn't show with the key off, the stereo is sitting on the bench, yet it is still drawing about 0.5A. The battery is brand new, and doesn't drop away if it is not connected to the car.

ARRGGHHH help me please!

Its fucked.


Burn it.

Ixion
17th February 2009, 20:57
Half amp. 6 watt. Small bulb. Boot light stuck on ?

JimO
17th February 2009, 20:58
light in the glove box??

McJim
17th February 2009, 21:00
I have a Ford Falcon Futura 2003 for sale 144,000km, recently serviced, $10,000 or nearest sensible offer.....it has ford stamped on the engine too.....and it works.:2thumbsup burn the Telstar and buy this.

sinfull
17th February 2009, 21:00
Half amp. 6 watt. Small bulb. Boot light stuck on ?
Swap a new boot for the auto out of it !

McDuck
17th February 2009, 21:01
light in the glove box??

Lack of flame?



Pull the fuzes one at a time, if it is a light that will tell you.

Ixion
17th February 2009, 21:06
Does everything work properly when the ignition is on?

idb
17th February 2009, 21:11
Pull the fuzes one at a time, if it is a light that will tell you.

That's where I'd start.

gatch
17th February 2009, 22:11
burn baby burn

davereid
18th February 2009, 07:40
Pull the fuzes one at a time, if it is a light that will tell you.

McDucks idea is a good one, you can watch your amp-meter, and when you get the fuse feeding the dodgy load, you will spot it.

Of course you still have to trace it from there, but fuses are marked, so you will have a short-list of things it could be.

FROSTY
18th February 2009, 12:48
is the ignition barrel acc tag smeared inside?

Finn
18th February 2009, 13:01
It's the alarm.

vifferman
18th February 2009, 13:20
You've heard of bottom-dwelling, scum-sucking oxygen thieves, right?
Your car seems to have a stowaway cavity-dwelling voltage thief. It's hiding under the dashboard, or sometimes in one of the doors, or under a seat, sponging up an erg or two here, a quarter of an amp there, and getting fatter each day. Best thing to do is close all the windows and doors, but leave the driver's window down a cm or two. Fill the car up to the level of the top of the driver's window with water, and you'll see the culprit float up to the top.
They can't stand water.

thehollowmen
18th February 2009, 13:41
look at the alarm, and pull the fuses to check what section of the car it is in.
It might not be a light bulb, might be a bit of wire worn through and grounding gently on the frame.

vifferman
18th February 2009, 13:42
Take the battery out - that'll stop it for sure.

peasea
18th February 2009, 14:12
I have an imported '92 Telstar Ghia wagon - the same as a Mazda 626 (even has MAZDA on the rocker cover...)

It has started eating the battery over about a 4 hour period. There are no lights left on (all the interior bulbs are now taken out), the clock doesn't show with the key off, the stereo is sitting on the bench, yet it is still drawing about 0.5A. The battery is brand new, and doesn't drop away if it is not connected to the car.

ARRGGHHH help me please!


Possibly a diode in the alternator. I'm no auto sparky but these things (if I'm right) act like a wee elctrical one-way valve and when they fail, out leaks your power.

Disconnect the alternator and see if the draw stops. If it does, bingo, otherwise go through the fuses one at a time, pluck them out and see if THAT stops the draw. Most likely the alternator though.

gatch
18th February 2009, 15:19
i reckon you should take off all the doors, jump start it, drive it around in small circles in reverse at maximum rpm, the centrifugal force should hopefully eject the nasty little ampere thief.

wunce hes gone make sure to back over him a few times..

marty
18th February 2009, 17:52
my point exactly. i've tried the fuse thing. have to try it again.

Crisis management
18th February 2009, 18:02
Possibly a diode in the alternator. I'm no auto sparky but these things (if I'm right) act like a wee elctrical one-way valve and when they fail, out leaks your power.

Well worth investigating.....happened to me 6 months ago, eveything was fine until parked overnight, then dead battery; recharge battery, drive round and then overnight dead.
Admitedly, the alternator died fairly quickly after this started to occur, like just after the auto electrician diagnosed it.

I suppose to test it, disconnect the alternator and see what happens.

McDuck
18th February 2009, 20:57
my point exactly. i've tried the fuse thing. have to try it again.

Then the problem is before the fuse box....

Hinny
18th February 2009, 21:16
I have three vehicles that have had alternators crap out in the last six months.
Same symptoms as yours. All problems fixed with a reconditioned alternator.
Had to buy a new pair of batteries for the Safari as they don't like being completely discharged over and over again.
You need to sort it before you need to buy another new battery.
Telstars from memory have a pretty small battery but I would have thought a new one had enough capacity to sustain a 0.5amp drain for 4 hours.

gammaguy
18th February 2009, 21:33
aaah,that will be the battery warning light draining the power,bet its stuck on.

strangely on those models it was located under the battery,and they go out when you remove the battery to check it......:yes:

ducatilover
18th February 2009, 21:43
I would start with a nice simple voltage drop test across the obvious places where the amp eater is, light and starter motor, then run round and yoink fuses:beer:

Virago
18th February 2009, 21:50
It don't add up.

Battery going down over 4 hours from a 0.5Amp draw? That's only 2 AH - the battery will be 40 to 50 AH if fully charged.

The alternator is the likely culprit - or the battery is faulty.

ducatilover
18th February 2009, 21:54
It don't add up.

Battery going down over 4 hours from a 0.5Amp draw? That's only 2 AH - the battery will be 40 to 50 AH if fully charged.

The alternator is the likely culprit - or the battery is faulty.

you have a very good point.

Patrick
19th February 2009, 10:41
Blame the battery man, its his fault... coz ita always someone elses....

And if it isn't the battery, I think they will have a look for the problem and isolate/fix it for ya.....

peasea
19th February 2009, 14:15
It don't add up.

Battery going down over 4 hours from a 0.5Amp draw? That's only 2 AH - the battery will be 40 to 50 AH if fully charged.

The alternator is the likely culprit - or the battery is faulty.

Agreed. Most likely the alt' as a battery that is THAT faulty probably wouldn't charge up. A good s/h alt' could be bought for sfa from a wrecker, a cuppla bolts, job done. Time to pour a bourbon.

marty
19th February 2009, 19:24
well i have been over and over it. the alternator doesn't appear to be the culprit - i ran the ammeter across the battery again and found that the current draw dropped from 0.3A to 0.01-0.00A when i took out the brake light 15A fuse - i must have missed it yesterday (it's in a line of 4 x 15A fuses). can't figure it out though - there's definately no lights on unless my foot is on the brake! i've disconnected the low brake fluid sensor, no difference. any clues?

if anyone has a 626/telstar like this one, http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Ford/Telstar/auction-203279160.htm and could take a pic of the fuse box cover that is in english, it would be appreciated.

idb
19th February 2009, 19:34
I'd suggest that there's more than a brake light in the circuit if it needs a 15A fuse.

Motu
19th February 2009, 19:37
An import will most likely have cruise control - on some it is a dual brake switch,one part supplying a signal to the cruise control.

Slyer
19th February 2009, 19:39
Have you tried replacing the brake light fluid?

idb
19th February 2009, 19:41
Have you tried replacing the brake light fluid?

Come on, the guy's not an idiot!

That's so obvious that I never even bothered to suggest it!

davereid
19th February 2009, 19:43
Automatic Jap cars often have an interlock on the brake pedal, the brake has to be ON, before you can get the car out of park.

It may also power up a lamp to indicate brake fail - driven by a switch that detects a difference in pressure between brake hydralic circuits.

The brake light circuit is normally on all the time, regardless of key position, so it helps explain your problem.

In my experience, look at aftermarket stuff first. While I wouldn't expect the circuit to be live when the brake is not depressed, the guy who installed the Hi-Stop or Trailer lighting circuits could have wired something wrong. Also a car alarm wired to flash the brake lights could be at fault.

Good Luck !

roadracingoldfart
19th February 2009, 20:25
Check the brake light switch for a short

peasea
19th February 2009, 20:52
well i have been over and over it. the alternator doesn't appear to be the culprit - i ran the ammeter across the battery again and found that the current draw dropped from 0.3A to 0.01-0.00A when i took out the brake light 15A fuse - i must have missed it yesterday (it's in a line of 4 x 15A fuses). can't figure it out though - there's definately no lights on unless my foot is on the brake! i've disconnected the low brake fluid sensor, no difference. any clues?

if anyone has a 626/telstar like this one, http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Ford/Telstar/auction-203279160.htm and could take a pic of the fuse box cover that is in english, it would be appreciated.

Take the brake pedal out.

peasea
19th February 2009, 20:52
Check the brake light switch for a short

Wouldn't the brake lights be on though? Dead give away.

McDuck
19th February 2009, 22:23
Altho in the short term just pull the fuse when you get out and remeber to replace it when you go for a drive...

Max Preload
19th February 2009, 22:50
Wouldn't the brake lights be on though? Dead give away.

Not if it's shorting to earth. Do the brake lights work?

marty
21st February 2009, 21:04
when the fuse is in, yes. found out today the horn uses the same fuse (hot battery) so will look there too.

FROSTY
22nd February 2009, 07:59
do you have a towbar?? if so check the plugblock . Its about the most exposed electrical part on ya car

portokiwi
22nd February 2009, 08:19
on our VW if you leave the indercator on when you switch the car of the head light on that side comes on....Took me awhile to get use to that:argh:
That can drain the btty after awhile lol.
Mabe your car has something like that
Just a thought...:whistle: