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View Full Version : Stripped screw on the brake reservoir?



vindy500
18th February 2009, 14:55
How do i go about removing it? i dont really want to destroy the the thread

Max Preload
18th February 2009, 14:59
Ummmm if it's stripped the thread is already destroyed. Or do you mean the head is rounded? If the latter, see here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?p=1094892#post1094892).

vindy500
18th February 2009, 15:00
like the bit you put your screwdriver in is buggered

Max Preload
18th February 2009, 15:05
So the latter. See the post. :done:

vindy500
18th February 2009, 15:07
aiight but how do i get the main part of the screw out once the heads off?

Max Preload
18th February 2009, 15:13
aiight but how do i get the main part of the screw out once the heads off?

The threaded section does not stop flush with the reservoir - it's proud. Drill in the centre of the head with a bit that is the same diameter or very slightly larger than the machine screw's thread and stop as soon as the head pops off (it'll be a ring) and there will be enough thread remaining to put long nosed pliers on and remove the threaded piece from the reservoir once you remove the cap and seal.

Oh, and get a new machine screw first to replace it.

vifferman
18th February 2009, 15:16
Oh, and get a new machine screw first to replace it.
Oh, and put a smear of grease or oil on the threads before you replace the screws. Brake fluid's great for causing corrosion between steel screws and alloy brake fluid reservoirs (sucks up moisture, galvanic corrosion ensues). Since it's difficult to stop the brake fluid getting in the screwholes, next best thing is to protect the threads.

Madness
18th February 2009, 15:20
Depending on how badly munted the head is, Recoil (the thread insert people) produce a solution called re-grip. It's a paste that you apply to a screwdriver tip to grip onto stripped heads. It works.

Try Engineering Supplies in Petone 568 5048, they're just off The Esplanade & easy to find. Say Hi to Wayne for me.

Max Preload
18th February 2009, 15:44
Here it is step-by-step.

The Pastor
18th February 2009, 15:45
Also if you clean it up real well, some times you can epoxy like an allen key or somthing to the head of stripped screws - worth a shot if youve got some epoxy lying around, if not get a drill / easy out

vindy500
18th February 2009, 15:51
got it out with a drill, thanks guys

TLDV8
18th February 2009, 18:18
like the bit you put your screwdriver in is buggered

Get a small centre punch,put a small punch mark at the outer part of the fastener then angle the centre punch in that mark and tap it around with a small hammer.

Edit..Didn't see the last post,bit late for the above now.

vindy500
18th February 2009, 22:27
i just stripped the second screw... weak screws or poor technique on my behalf? meh get some more tomorrow

Max Preload
19th February 2009, 07:36
i just stripped the second screw... weak screws or poor technique on my behalf? meh get some more tomorrow

Most likely poor quality screwdrivers or you're using phillips screwdrvers and they're pozidrive heads. They look very similar, but pozidrize addresses the shortcomings of phillips heads.

Phillips screwdrivers come to a sharp point at the tip, while pozidrive are flatter.

vifferman
19th February 2009, 08:06
Most likely poor quality screwdrivers or you're using phillips screwdrvers and they're pozidrive heads.Pozidrive aren't generally used on bikes.
It's more likely the screw head and/or screwdriver tip were a bit munted. The trouble with Phillips is that if either item isn't in pristine condition, and/or they're not mated properly, slippage occurs.
But you knew that.
And those screws on the reservoir covers are very small, so there's not much contact area or grip.
Wonder if you can replace them with s/steel allen headed ones?

Racin Jason
19th February 2009, 08:19
I find it works well to give the srewdriver a little tap with a hammer when undoing reserviour srews. ensures good seating of the head and helps crack the corrosion seal vifferman was taking about. sometimes a small bar and phillips bit works better than a srewdriver too.

vifferman
19th February 2009, 08:24
I find it works well to give the srewdriver a little tap with a hammer when undoing reserviour srews. True!
I forgot about that! Push down hard on the screwdriver, and give it a twist at the same time you whack it. Usually works for me!

Max Preload
19th February 2009, 10:20
Pozidrive aren't generally used on bikes.
It's more likely the screw head and/or screwdriver tip were a bit munted. The trouble with Phillips is that if either item isn't in pristine condition, and/or they're not mated properly, slippage occurs.

They're used, they're just not often marked correctly. In any case, using a pozidrive screwdriver in a phillips head will mean that you don't have to dig all the shit out of the head first so it seats properly.


Wonder if you can replace them with s/steel allen headed ones?

The absolute last thing you want to put in an aluminium thread is a stainless steel fastener for reasons not limited to galvanic corrosion.

vifferman
19th February 2009, 10:38
The absolute last thing you want to put in an aluminium thread is a stainless steel fastener for reasons not limited to galvanic corrosion.
It was just an idle wondering...
Wouldn't look right in any case.

elevenhundred
19th February 2009, 14:29
Get an impact driver!
They are worth their weight in gold. Especially if you own an older bike.
I got mine 2nd hand for $25
Even on rounded out heads they can usually get them undone (as long as you haven't rounded it too much).
Once you get them out though make sure you replace them with new screws/bolts and grease em (saves the same thing occurring in future).

vifferman
19th February 2009, 15:29
Get an impact driver!
I've had one for years (20? 25?). :yes:
Not really the sort of thing to use on a brake reservoir however - a bit too brutal. The screwdriver and hammer does the same job quite well, and you can modulate how hard you tap the screwdriver, and how much torque you put on it, whereas the impact driver needs a fair whack to work properly.

Racin Jason
19th February 2009, 20:47
I've had one for years (20? 25?). :yes:
Not really the sort of thing to use on a brake reservoir however - a bit too brutal. The screwdriver and hammer does the same job quite well, and you can modulate how hard you tap the screwdriver, and how much torque you put on it, whereas the impact driver needs a fair whack to work properly.

Yes. An impact driver is a must have.(for phillips) But i dont use mine that often. Often they do more damage that good. I prefer a good power bar and a hammer, So that you can controll the tourqe better. Works really good for siezed allen head bolts

The Pastor
20th February 2009, 12:17
why oh why cant they just use 8mm bolts instead of screws. or hav the entire lid screw on like a jar.

life is never simple

FROSTY
21st February 2009, 03:14
one tool currently missing from my kit is a stubby hex headed screwdriver.
In eesence its a normal pz screwdriver but its High tensile and the shaft goes right through and out the top and ends in a 10mm hex
You can give it a tap into those screws no worries

Screws wise I use M4x16 countersunk HT hex to replace the buggered ones. word of warning though,definitely use coppercoat on the threads -if they corro0de you are in big trouble

Kungfaux
24th January 2010, 15:30
Just wanna say thanks to everyone for all the advice here, I had 2 stripped screws on my clutch fluid reservoir and the drill technique worked a treat. Cheers KBers! =D