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View Full Version : Just a little idea for nyloning my bucket



wbks
7th March 2009, 16:55
I was looking at ways to put plastic or what ever on the bike for next weekend and besides putting plastic bottle corks in the bar ends I can't really think of how you guys do this?

There is the option of putting skateboard wheels on the axle bolts so I've heard but then there is making sure the bolt is long enough to attach both wheels and then do the nut tight, and just squeezing them on the axle not fastened doesn't seem the thing to do.

So I thought this little idea could be good? It's basically self explanatory but the extra part with a wheel is just a piece of steel tube that would be welded on to the swing arm with a skateboard wheel bolted on to it, which would protrude enough to stop any scraping and the same for the forks.

quallman1234
7th March 2009, 17:48
You could just spot weld two nuts together (the axle nut). Then put a bolt tho a skateboard wheel and tighten it up into the second nut. Probabaly the easiest way.

wbks
7th March 2009, 18:20
I think I see what you mean. Sounds good. But while we're on the subject, how do you get the bolt secured in the wheel so the wheel wont fall off under pressure? If you used a washer to hold the wheel in, there would be metal exposed to scraping anyway? I guess you just find a washer to fit into the grove in the wheel?

quallman1234
7th March 2009, 18:30
I think I see what you mean. Sounds good. But while we're on the subject, how do you get the bolt secured in the wheel so the wheel wont fall off under pressure? If you used a washer to hold the wheel in, there would be metal exposed to scraping anyway?

I'm no expert on this as i haven't actually done it to my bucket yet. But that is the way i'd do it. I'm sure there's better ways. You might need to actually weld it on too as a just a spot weld might break when crashing.

Assuming your meaning how you would have the bolt secure inside the skateboard wheel. I would imagine a washer wouldn't push the end of the bolt out passed the edge of the skateboard wheel. If it does i suppose you could just drill a bigger hole into the smaller hole to move the postion of the bolt futhur into the skateboard wheel.

Btw with the swingarm i would imagine drilling a small hole into the side then tapping it wouldn't be a big deal and should reduce the strength of it. Someone correct me?. Surely it would be alright because you often see hole's for stands etc in the side of the swingarm. Duh thats pretty much what your pic shows hehe. Either or. Both would work, but my idea would aviod you having to space it out for length i suppose. I have a single sided swingarm on my bucket anyways! :D

There's heaps of ways of doing it :).

wbks
7th March 2009, 18:39
I might try spot welding a nut on with a mig unit. Thanks for the suggestion, seems more practical then just adding more steel rods to it.

quallman1234
7th March 2009, 18:41
I might try spot welding a nut on with a mig unit. Thanks for the suggestion, seems more practical then just adding more steel rods to it.

Who knows might be a silly suggestion. Tell me how it goes.

Cheers
Kyle

piston broke
7th March 2009, 18:55
i've still gotta do mine before next week.
does anyone have pic's of their nylon,
no gal's not ya stockings or smalls.;)

wbks
7th March 2009, 19:11
Dirty bloody spaghetti-slurper-stradler's!

Trying to find a tig unit somewhere to use now

nudemetalz
7th March 2009, 21:31
I have skateboard wheel sliders on my bucket.
What I did use a long bolt which recessed into the hole, then I used a washer and nut to tighten the bolt to the wheel. Then put it to a bracket with a nut on the other side of that and Bob's your Aunty !!
(essentially the same as your design anyway, wbks)

Ixion
7th March 2009, 22:27
Wotz da drill wiv dis nylon biz that I keep reading abt ?

piston broke
7th March 2009, 22:46
Wotz da drill wiv dis nylon biz that I keep reading abt ?

so ya don't rip up the track:scooter:if'n ya fall off

koba
7th March 2009, 22:55
Make sure you use decent skateboard wheels, I used shit warehous ones and they disintegrated instantaniously.
Cardboard would have been better!

koba
7th March 2009, 22:57
In that situation I would probably try find longer bolts for the lower shock mount and add a skateboard wheel there.

quallman1234
7th March 2009, 23:44
In that situationI would probably try find longer bolts for the lower shock mount and and a skateboard wheel there.

Yea that would be easy as :).

Buckets4Me
8th March 2009, 06:55
we use countersunk headed bolts :yes: and weld nuts inside the handle bars
or onto the end of the axel

or on my rs I'm just going to put some threaded rod all the way threw my back axel:gob:

Buckets4Me
8th March 2009, 06:59
see you there on sunday Mt Wellington Rain or shine :scooter:
first points race for the year :wari:

the other option is to get some nylon rod 40mm + thick and drill out the center and bolt it straight threw the axel
make it nice and long 75mm or so ( then you can sink the head of the bolt right down inside it)

wbks
8th March 2009, 10:17
I think I'll try to find a longer bolt for the shocks. Will have to work out how long I need it then go into the store and ask if they have what I need at the expense of looking like a wank not knowing which bolt to ask for specifically. Failing that I will have to do the nut thing or just weld a pipe like in my drawing. But I can only weld it this weekend, so I hope the bolt is the go.

EDIT: Susp. bolt is welded on... Axle is solid, not drilled out... Will probably have to weld some shit on... So may be another month away :( Only problem is that the axle nut's have gaps every couple mm for the loc wire to fit through so I'm not sure it would hold secure if dropped. So I will probably weld the pipe on like I said. If I'm lucky, I can do it saturday morning and get to mt welly in time for an hour or so practice or at least sunday race day. But how do you guys think mig welding would hold up for the job? My dad who's an engineer said tig would be the go for it which is right but couldn't mig be just fine for a reasonably light duty job? or atleast for this weekend? Its the only thing I can get my hands on unless I spend the weekend looking for something else

Buckets4Me
8th March 2009, 14:32
MIG is just fine and dandy as long as it is done ok
everything on my bike I have done is Mig and it hasent broken

just get yourself and the bike there on sunday
get a big roll of ducktape if you havent finished the nylon
lock wire the nylon on if you feel guilty

or just rap the whole dam lot in ducktape
and finish it later :scooter:

just dont crash and it dosent need to be nyloned :innocent:

wbks
8th March 2009, 17:02
Those tires look like not crashing isn't an option unless its an absolutely stinking hot and dry day hahaha atleast on the front. I'll see what I can do, anyway. Actually, that reminds me : the sides of the back still need scrubbing in (and there is silver spray paint spots on it) so that's a good excuse for me to have a play on it some time this week. Might even have to get some pics for this "how low can you go" pissing contest lol

Buckets4Me
8th March 2009, 18:22
tip from experience

When you get your knee down you aren't ment to get your sholder down as well

:crazy::Oops:

but I got down nice and low (fortunately no one got a photo)

quallman1234
8th March 2009, 20:38
Becareful welding it and try use a thinish wire like 1.2mm at max. Or else you risk it getting too hot and putting holes in it. And that aint fun. I'm sure you can weld :). But that stuff aint that thick eh.

koba
8th March 2009, 20:44
Becareful welding it and try use a thinish wire like 1.2mm.

Spot the guy who works around heavy stuff.

quallman1234
8th March 2009, 20:50
Spot the guy who works around heavy stuff.

1.6mm is the normal stuff we use.

Thiniest we have is like 0.9mm Solid wire. Seriously tho that shits thin (the swing arm)

koba
8th March 2009, 21:00
1.6mm is the normal stuff we use.

Thiniest we have is like 0.9mm Solid wire. Seriously tho that shits thin (the swing arm)

Yeah, 0.9mm sounds better.
I use 0.8mm and thats good for somthing like up to 5mm jobs.
You can use thicker wire but its fecking hard!

wbks
8th March 2009, 21:01
Well considering the mig I'll be using is owned by a civil engineer I can't imagine they will have any thin wire around... Fakk! Maybe I can just use the extra month to get all this crap sorted and I won't be rushing around for next time

koba
8th March 2009, 21:04
Well considering the mig I'll be using is owned by a civil engineer I can't imagine they will have any thin wire around... Fakk! Maybe I can just use the extra month to get all this crap sorted and I won't be rushing around for next time

There is always a way.
Spend a bit of time nutting out how you are going to do it and you should be able to get it sorted fine.

Edit:
Countersunk pop rivets and chopping board are getting alot of use from me at the moment.

wbks
8th March 2009, 21:09
I don't get what you guys mean about chopping boards on pegs and stuff. How would you attach it? Pics?

Ixion
8th March 2009, 21:09
Has anyone considered Velcro? Bloody expensive pastime this bucketing is looking to be, I just priced skateboard wheels. Fuck me, what are they made of. I'm just a poor impoverished old man, ekeing out a penurious existence on the smell of an oily rag. I can't afford all these expenses. Maybe if I mug the local Kidz and steal their skateboards.

wbks
8th March 2009, 21:12
Skateboard wheels are overpriced to be "cool" and make little differences when actually skated on. I know, I used to skate. Just buy some cheap hard wheels would be my guess. There are gell ones that wouldn't work well sliding as far as I would think. They should be pretty cheap, if not then get some for $10 off trademe second hand. Doesn't matter how worn out they are, they only wear out in diameter, not thickness which is what you need

Ixion
8th March 2009, 21:16
$10 ? Each ? Bloody hell the ones I found were a bit over a dollar each and I thought that was bad enough. I'm just a poor , etc etc. Why can't I use a chunk of old tyre carcase cut up? After all the tyres on the bike are OK, so why wouldn't a bit of tyre be OK for this other whatever the unknown fuck it is? I got old tyres I can cut up and screw on . Free.

quallman1234
8th March 2009, 21:21
As long as it does the job then theres no worries.

Ixion
8th March 2009, 21:23
That's the sort of answer I like. Coupla sections of old tyres cut up, wrapped around the swing arm, or anything else that looks wrappable, secured with a cable tie. Sorted, free, simple.


But, just for the sake of it - " As long as it does the job", so what the fuck IS the *job* ?

wbks
8th March 2009, 21:30
Did you forget what putting slidables was about since page two? :lol: Not scarring the track surface when you wreck. Nah I meant 10 a set. $1 each is damn cheap. Whats wrong with $4 for a set? Stop being such a cheap prick lol

skidMark
8th March 2009, 21:34
put bolt through skaboard wheel....weld a nut on...use rest of that nut to thread onto axle.....

Or just bolt and nut the skateboard wheel.... and make a bracket to go behind the axle nut.... piece of plate with two holes...axle nut holds one end....wheel bolts through other hole cant be bothered drawing it.

koba
8th March 2009, 21:37
$10 ? Each ? Bloody hell the ones I found were a bit over a dollar each and I thought that was bad enough. I'm just a poor , etc etc. Why can't I use a chunk of old tyre carcase cut up? After all the tyres on the bike are OK, so why wouldn't a bit of tyre be OK for this other whatever the unknown fuck it is? I got old tyres I can cut up and screw on . Free.

Thats the attitude!
My mate got a pile of skateboard wheels from a skate shop for free, he just asked for poked ones and they were happy to get rid of them.

Chopping boards are good if you can snatch one off the mrs.

I've been using a pile of nylon and acetal bits and pieces found in a bin.

koba
8th March 2009, 21:39
If you do go attaching shit to the swingarm make sure it isn't going to bend it all out fo shape when it hits the ground, it needs a good solid mounting and slidey surface, old tyres may not be so good with this.

quallman1234
8th March 2009, 21:50
That's the sort of answer I like. Coupla sections of old tyres cut up, wrapped around the swing arm, or anything else that looks wrappable, secured with a cable tie. Sorted, free, simple.


But, just for the sake of it - " As long as it does the job", so what the fuck IS the *job* ?

When you crash, it doesn't leave a big dirty scartch on the surface.

WarrenW
10th March 2009, 17:27
Or you can get me to machine you some nylon bits eh.

wbks
10th March 2009, 18:55
Yea but it's the mounting them on the swingarm and forks that is what I'm trying to figure out.

skidMark
10th March 2009, 23:13
Yea but it's the mounting them on the swingarm and forks that is what I'm trying to figure out.


You bother to read my post?

wbks
11th March 2009, 07:07
Yes and I read qualman's post that said the same thing. I'll let you guys know how it goes

piston broke
11th March 2009, 16:57
ok people,
i ended up using a 4" roller from a boat trailer cut in half and wired onto the rear axle.
plastic wine bottle tops for the bars.
teflon on the pegs.
wired the sump plug.
is there any thing else i need to do?
cheers

Ixion
11th March 2009, 17:23
When you crash, it doesn't leave a big dirty scartch on the surface.

Yeah, I sort of get that. But I've seen bikes sliding along upside down sliding on the fuel tank with the wheels in the air. And I guess the filler cap would leave quite a scratch.

So what I'm getting at, is how far do you take it?

I gather that the standard setup is crash bungs on the swing arm or axle end; handlebar ends; and foot pegs. Anything else ? Front axle? Gear lever? Rear brake pedal?

wbks
11th March 2009, 17:25
Also, do you need a catch can? Theres a tube out from the top of my sump so I figured I might need to attach an empty coke can or something incase it leeks out?

Skunk
11th March 2009, 18:20
You bother to read my post?
I missed it. Was it between all the quotes in your sig?

Skunk
11th March 2009, 18:21
Also, do you need a catch can? Theres a tube out from the top of my sump so I figured I might need to attach an empty coke can or something incase it leeks out?
Yes to that. Required. Also catch any other fluids that might leak - fuel overflow, radiator - if required.

Buckets4Me
11th March 2009, 18:41
Yeah, I sort of get that. But I've seen bikes sliding along upside down sliding on the fuel tank with the wheels in the air. And I guess the filler cap would leave quite a scratch.

So what I'm getting at, is how far do you take it?

I gather that the standard setup is crash bungs on the swing arm or axle end; handlebar ends; and foot pegs. Anything else ? Front axle? Gear lever? Rear brake pedal?

wrap the whole bike in nylon :wacko:

or you could make it out of nylon

I saw a picture of a bike made out of 4x2 planks that wouldn't scratch

piston broke
11th March 2009, 18:43
wrap the whole bike in nylon :wacko:

or you could make it out of nylon

I saw a picture of a bike made out of 4x2 planks that wouldn't scratch

so where can we find the rules?

SHELRACING
11th March 2009, 19:21
This is how I did it on the Delta.

You can buy blocks of plastic from manufacturers scrap bins( There's one off ellice road on the shore). I brought a shit load fo 15 bucks.

On the forks I cut some 20mm blocks, drilled through the sides. Then zipped them on. Won't hold. you say !. Well they survived two major crashes at Taumarunui ( eh b4me ). Admittedly 1 zip broke and was replaced.

The rear was easy as. Yamaha kindly fixed some threaded fixings into the swing arm which I used and also double as stand supports to remove the back wheel. No reason why these couldn't be zipped tho.

Skunk
11th March 2009, 19:35
so where can we find the rules?
There are no official rules on nylon as we only do it to protect Kart tracks at the request of the track owners. The basic idea is:

If it can mark the track, cover it.

I replace my gear lever peg and rear brake lever peg with nylon. Not the arm, just the peg. Or cover it or screw a block under it.

I'll take some photos of mine as I have used different methods on each bike.

wbks
11th March 2009, 19:55
Yes to that. Required. Also catch any other fluids that might leak - fuel overflow, radiator - if required.I'll get to it. Just a regular fizzy drink can secured to the bike with the tube into it will do? And I see that guy's got is brake clamp bolts wired up... I will have my sump plug wired up, but is it really necessary to do any other bolts? I probably won't do any more than plug the bars with wine corks, and put skateboard wheels on the swingarm and fork to cover the axles and they should be long enough on the swingarm to hold the rest of the steel off the track when it's on its side

piston broke
11th March 2009, 20:03
There are no official rules on nylon as we only do it to protect Kart tracks at the request of the track owners. The basic idea is:

If it can mark the track, cover it.

I replace my gear lever peg and rear brake lever peg with nylon. Not the arm, just the peg. Or cover it or screw a block under it.

I'll take some photos of mine as I have used different methods on each bike.

that would be great skunk,cheers.
on the a100 i can't see the point for the front forks as the bolts are recessed.
i will put sometthin on the rear brake pedal tho.
ta

Skunk
11th March 2009, 20:35
I'll get to it. Just a regular fizzy drink can secured to the bike with the tube into it will do? And I see that guy's got is brake clamp bolts wired up... I will have my sump plug wired up, but is it really necessary to do any other bolts? I probably won't do any more than plug the bars with wine corks, and put skateboard wheels on the swingarm and fork to cover the axles and they should be long enough on the swingarm to hold the rest of the steel off the track when it's on its side
Yep, that should be fine. I used a Woodstock 440ml can for three years... Lockwiring everything is a 'good idea'™ but not really required. Lockwiring anything that could leak is required. R clips or split pins in the axle nuts is usually required too.

Strangely most of this is covered on the Bucket Racing (http://www.bucketracing.co.nz/index.php?pg=rules) website

Kendog
11th March 2009, 21:02
I thought plastic wine bottle tops were no good for bar ends, they simply break up on impact.

Skunk
11th March 2009, 21:26
I thought plastic wine bottle tops were no good for bar ends, they simply break up on impact.
They're not the best. One crash wonders if that. Best to get nylon bar and turn the end down to size. WarrenW on here offers this at cheap rates.

Ixion
11th March 2009, 21:29
Nylon bar costs. How about if I fill the bottle tops with bog?

piston broke
11th March 2009, 21:37
or maybe epoxy?

Buckets4Me
12th March 2009, 12:56
use a hunk of broom handle and wittle it down to fit the handle bar :pinch:

who said it had to be nylon just that it wasent ment to scratch the track
:eek5:

Skunk
12th March 2009, 14:03
Cheap nylon is called acetal. $5 goes a looonnng way.


Polyoxymethylene (POM), in the USA also commonly known under DuPont's brand name Delrin, is an engineering plastic, a polymer with the chemical formula -(-O-CH2-)n-. It is often marketed and used as a metal substitute. Delrin is a lightweight, low-friction, and wear-resistant thermoplastic with good physical and processing properties and capable of operating in temperatures in excess of 90 degrees celsius (approximately 200 degrees fahrenheit). According to the material safety data sheet from DuPont, the material has a slight odor of formaldehyde.[1]
It is also known as polyacetal, acetal resin, polytrioxane, polyformaldehyde, and paraformaldehyde (the latter term is usually restricted to the short-chained polymer). Polyacetals are sold under the trade names Delrin, Kepital, Celcon, Hostaform, Iupital[2] and Ultraform[3], the last five being copolymers.
Delrin was first synthesized by DuPont's research chemists around 1952. The company filed for patent protection of the material in 1956 and completed construction of a plant to produce the material at Parkersburg, West Virginia in 1960. Another form of the polymer was developed in Europe.

saxet
12th March 2009, 14:52
Polyoxymethylene (POM), in the USA also commonly known under DuPont's brand name Delrin, is an engineering plastic, a polymer with the chemical formula -(-O-CH2-)n-. It is often marketed and used as a metal substitute. Delrin is a lightweight, low-friction,.............etc.



Say what mister Fawltey?

wbks
12th March 2009, 15:46
Cheap nylon is called acetal. $5 goes a looonnng way.
Where would you find this acetal?

Skunk
12th March 2009, 16:17
Where would you find this acetal?
In the Yellow Pages. Well, not IN them, ON them. In the form of addresses and phone numbers for Plastic suppliers.

Skunk
14th March 2009, 12:53
I'll take some photos of mine as I have used different methods on each bike.And here (http://www.skunkworks.net.nz/gallery/v/Motorcycle_1/bucket/album_001/) they are. Can't seem to upload photos at the moment...

Sketchy_Racer
14th March 2009, 20:39
Polyoxymethylene (POM), in the USA also commonly known under DuPont's brand name Delrin, is an engineering plastic, a polymer with the chemical formula -(-O-CH2-)n-. It is often marketed and used as a metal substitute. Delrin is a lightweight, low-friction,.............etc.



Say what mister Fawltey?

Also know in the trade as Acetal (another brand name)

Skunk
14th March 2009, 20:48
That's what I said. Then they asked what Acetal was - soz I toldz dem. Next they be askin' you what Acetal is.

wbks
15th March 2009, 16:26
Lol I just spent 30 mins with my dad getting a car exhaust bracket, welding a nut onto that, tidying it up and put it on and it works right but I'm pretty sure once I put some solid nylon pegs on of standard peg size it will hold all the metal off the ground anyway except for the handle bars which have wine tops in them. I guess that makes it pointless but oh well.


That's what I said. Then they asked what Acetal was - soz I toldz dem. Next they be askin' you what Acetal is......


...WORD