2009 Southern Cross Report by MaxB

[MaxB]

More ramblings on the Southern Cross Rally. Photos to come.

Part 1

Sunday 22nd – South Auckland – Hicks Bay (483kms)

I managed to pack on the Saturday for a change. I was determined to keep the luggage to a minimum this time. By using a smaller tank bag and keeping the Ventura expander pack zipped in the low position I lost abut 20 litres of space. I cheated a bit because I packed a fabric cordura type bag and stuck the wets in it. Even the tool kit was slimmed down. A can of tyre weld and vice grips were the only things outside the underseat storage area. I had been keeping my eyes open for small tools to replace my existing bike toolkit. An allen key set, a few hex bits, tape, wire, multi bit screwdriver, 4 ratchet spanners and 2 adjustable wrenches covered 99% of the jobs I would need to do roadside. I adjusted the chain and did a few odd jobs using the small tool kit to make sure it all worked. I also threw in a small tube of epoxy putty for fairings, engine cases and the like.

I spent Sunday morning loading up and doing some last minute business stuff. I had a light lunch, said my goodbyes to the family and headed off for the Cape in brilliant sunshine. I went straight down the SH 1 expressway carefully until the Ohinewai-Tahuna road which is one of my favourites. I had to temper the urge to have some serious fun with the fact that I had over a week of hard riding ahead. I made it to the SH27 and on to some Waikato backroads after which I found myself at the foot of the Kaimais. Back into ‘behave myself’ mode I trundled over the hill and down into Tauranga. I turned right onto the Welcome Bay road and onto SH2. The first stop was at Te Puke for fuel only to find the BP no longer does 98. Oh well, shoved some 95 crap in and grabbed a coffee. About 15 kms on, the highway joins the coast and straightens out along the Matata er, straights. On the 2007 event I was coming over here late at night and almost hit a black bull in the fog. No dramas this time, I travelled at a speed to keep the cars out of my way but not enough to draw attention. Plus I had the radar detector this time. Whakatane came and went and I headed over the bump through Ohope and the Cheddar Valley out to SH2. Man that road was busy, full of daytrippers and campervans. One day they’ll build a proper link road. One day.

Another stop at Opotiki for a top up of gas and out on to the East Cape road. For some reason I eased off and just took it easy. Maybe I didn’t want to bin it so close to the start. I just sat back and sucked up the coastal scenery. The setting sun was on my back and I felt good. Up past Waihau Bay the roads cut inland and were even wet. When I got to the BOP/Eastland border sign the road turned bad, mainly from the missing seal and rough surface. It was only 40 km or so to Hicks Bay but they were quite twisty and damp. I had also miscalculated the daylight. The Raukumaras tower over the road and while I could see the sun on the hilltops, down where I was, the road was pretty dark.

I got to the Hicks Bay motor camp and headed straight for the bar where a pre ordered meal was waiting. Everyone in there was on the rally. I sat next to a party of four who turned out to have been in a bike club I was in 20 years ago. Small world. It was fun catching up and saying 'whatever happened to…?' All too soon it was time to hit the hay. A big day ahead tomorrow.


Monday 23rd – Hicks Bay via East Cape to New Plymouth (651 kms)

Next morning I was up in plenty of time for a leisurely breakfast and then to head out to the rally start and Te Araroa. It started to rain quite heavily and looked like settling in. The worst time was at the Te Araroa fuel stop where his royal highness took forever to venture out into the rain. At least he was happy.

I had hoped like in previous years they would set up the checkpoint at Te Araroa due to fuel and safety concerns. Judging by the packed café and store, plenty of others hoped the same thing. Then we saw the Rustys pass by in the ute. By then the rain eased right off and it was time to saddle up and head for the cape.

RALLY START

The road out to the Cape is semi sealed these days. The only dodgy bit is around the first bluff and the bit on from there. As with many tourist roads the metal is never the problem it is the other road users and their lack of experience on it. The ZZR suspension travel tends to keep the speed down tho’ I still managed to break the limit in some sections. People on BMW GSs and the like still came flying past.

At the Cape they just were not going to let us leave before 12.00. There was a sense of tension in the air. Faces were recognised, acknowledged with a nod. A lot of people were in their own space but a lot of others laughed and joked with friends.

Bikes lined the gravel entrance to the carpark. Someone had bought a Boss Hoss the 350 cu.in Chevy powered bike. Bloody ‘ell. There were trikes and examples of all the bigger sport/touring bikes. We had some speeches from the Rustys, the sign in books were opened, signed and we were off. I hung back a few minutes to ride out on empty roads. The weather at the start of our adventure was cold and overcast. Was this how it was going to be?

When I got back to Te Araroa I stopped to take a leak. When I got back to the bike a blue R6 limped into view. By now only a few bikes remained. The duct tape holding the fairing together betrayed the fact that he had binned it in the wet. The rider told me he lost it near Hicks Bay and had used 4 litres of oil getting to Te Araroa. Yikes. Closer inspection revealed three mean looking holes in the RH engine cover. What a place to crash. I remembered the epoxy putty and even gave him a rubber glove to knead it into a kind of plug. He filled most of the holes and put tape over the repair to hold it in place. Within a few minutes it had set like concrete. However there wasn’t time to make an oil tight seal. I wished I’d bought my JB weld, that would have finished the job. I got dressed and hung around until the Rustymobile was in sight then I left for New Plymouth, an hour behind schedule. I honestly thought that was it for this guy. Little did I know.

By now it was well past 1.00pm. Back out onto SH35 past Hicks Bay and off the Cape. I tried to make up time where I could using the zeds ample acceleration to get past the traffic. I got as far as the Hawai straight when a cop loomed into view. My electronic friend picked him up in plenty of time and I crawled past. I got a waggy finger and a headlamp flash but really there was nothing I did wrong. I thought I might pay for the misdeeds of those in front and he’d just had a guts full. We both carried on our separate ways and I made it to Opotiki for lunch/tea about 2.30. I went to that bakery on Church St. due to my weakness for fresh baked goods. The kids were leaving school and quite a few stopped to look at the bikes since by now another couple had joined me. Refreshed, I fuelled up at the BP and headed out for Rotorua. By now the sun had come out and it was very nice outside. I had a good run until the Pekatahi road/rail bridge where a queue had built up. There were roadworks on SH 30 to Rotorua and of course the 80km limits round the lakes. I still made good time to Rotorua and bypassed the town by going round SCION (was Forest Research) and out past Whakarewarewa after stopping for 98 Ultimate and more baked goods/coffee. There were quite a few SX ers at the BP so I figured I could take it easy now but I still wouldn’t make New Plymouth till after sunset.

I headed out towards Atiamuri then onto SH30 to Te Kuiti. Empty roads (apart from a roading truck marking a huge step where the seal had been stripped from a small bridge) it was plain and swift sailing. I meant to take the Kopaki road then onto the Aria road but the combination of sunstrike and fuel meant I headed for Te Kuiti and more roadworks. They had 98 at the BP so I filled up and fitted the thermal lining on my jacket.

There were a lot of bikes through the gorge. I got overtaken by the trike and his mates in the dark only to have him stop in front of me a few kays later. I hit the downhill road works too fast in the dark and got some serious weaving as I snow ploughed my way through the deep gravel. There was absolutely no way I was going to back off, I would have ended up on my arse if I had. And it would have been my fault entirely.

I slowed a little not knowing where the next set of killer road works would be but there were none except for the approaches to New Plymouth. I made it to the motel in one piece. The first day was over.

[Highlander]

Good stuff Max, really regretting not having done this year as I read all the write ups.

[DougieNZ]

Well done... I am glad to see that the rules were stuck to this year. I was a little disappointefd to see the checkpoint at Te Araroa in '97 and also that they let people go early. I rode to the cape anyway....

[Highlander]

Well done... I am glad to see that the rules were stuck to this year. I was a little disappointefd to see the checkpoint at Te Araroa in '97 and also that they let people go early. I rode to the cape anyway....

Misjudged your fuel supply in the process too if I recall correctly. :whistle:

[banditrider]

Day two, day two....:niceone:

[MaxB]

Tuesday 24th – New Plymouth to Paihia via Cape Egmont (717 kms)

Last time the motel in New Plymouth was full of SX ers. This time I was the only one and it was cheaper than last time with brekky thrown in. I woke up to blue skies. Bright sunshine greeted me when I went out to the bike. One advantage of being close to the checkpoint is the time available to get the bike and yourself sorted before the day’s big ride. I trundled out to Pungarehu and the lighthouse turning full of breakfast, coffee on a fed and watered bike.

Once again the book was kept under wraps until midday making night travel a certainty. Guess who rocked up at the checkpoint? None other than the R6 rider I had helped yesterday. Somehow he had got the bike off East Cape to be met by his partner and uncle (I think) who had trailered a Firestorm so he could continue the rally. Talk about dedication.

Sign in done and dusted and we were off again. Back up through New Plymouth and up SH3. Hello roadworks. By now some of the aches and pains had set in. I had the bike set up much stiffer than previously so I could press on if needed. That was a mistake. On anything but perfect roads I got a pattering through the front. Slowing down helped, as did flowing through the corners. The evil roadworks were still there but daylight helped me pick a better line through the mess.

This was the leg where the most bikes were on the road at the same time, this being the main way north. I was beginning to think that SH43 would have been better and probably less gravel! I heard later that a few souls had done this and been very impressed. One of our truly great roads.

I stopped in Te Kuiti at the BP again and instead of doing what the sheep were doing and eating and queuing at the attached diner I crossed the railway lines and off into my favourite bakery The Liberty Café. Just me and the locals. Endless coffee, soft chairs and an apple pie to die for. Down Waikato way pastry can still be made with butter, coffee comes in mugs and the prices reflect the fact that folks actually have to work for their money. Did I mention I liked this place? A couple on the rally saw the bike and wandered over. Another set of converts? Anyway by now most of the other bikes had left, my target was just to be home for tea so another slice of pie was in order. My father texted me to say he was over in Te Awamutu for the day. Sorry Paw it was one stop too many. Plus the fact he was supposed to be working!

I picked SH39 to Ngaruawahia via Pirongia and home via SH1 and remote control riding. Fewer cops than usual but it still makes perfect sense to the powers that be to put all the resources on the motorway section which is statistically the safest road in the country.

I was greeted at home by more business BS. That sorted, I read the email from family friends up north at Mangonui. They had gone away to get over the poor season and their B&B was closed for now. Auckland-Cape-Auckland was on the cards but I remembered a place in Paihia we used to stay. It was available so off I went. On the way to a gas stop at Wellsford I went through the new toll road. Brilliant. It says everything that the last off ramp was packed with cars going the toll free way and the road itself was empty. At Wellsford I met the SX guy on a Harley who wore the dayglo jacket. As it was dark he agreed to lead me to Paihia on his way to stay with family up north. I led to Whangarei where he wanted to stop again for fuel(?) We were tagged by a cop for a while going through town. He seemed very interested in the Hog but eventually turned off. Although my overnighter normally meant me turning off at Kawakawa I decided to keep the Harley company as far as Puketona and go in on the Haruru Falls road. Big mistake.

Between Moerewa and SH10 there were the worst roadworks I have ever met in NZ…ever. It was dark, the metal was wet and averaged golf ball sized pebbles. I tried it slow, fast, letting the back end hang out, slack grip on the bars, feet up, feet down FFS nothing seemed to give me control of where I wanted to go. The bars kicked out of my right hand twice (more on that at the end of the report). The Harley guy was not having the same kind of trouble with his narrow tyres and low c.o.g. He got through OK and promptly pissed off into the distance. My Beemer would rip through this stuff but not the fat wide Kwak with the donut tyres. I limped through at about 10kmh and once past decided to catch the Hog. It didn’t take long. The last 8km to my turn off were covered at pace and on full beam all the way and I reeled him in just before my turn off. We said our goodbyes and I carried on to my motel for the night. It must have been the adrenaline because when I got off the bike the pain kicked in. My wrists, fingers and shoulders were letting me know about the trip. I unpacked and settled in for the night with a hot shower and the painkillers doing their thing. Sleep came quickly

[shafty]

Great stuff Max - you must have a few km's on the Kwaka by now?

[MaxB]

Wednesday 25th - Paihia to Auckland via Cape Reinga (692 kms)

2 down 2 to go, checkpoints that is. That is the thought that kept me going today. Painkillers for breakfast, I set off for Awanui a 100km or so jaunt. On the way there was a guy on a bike I just knew wasn’t going to make it round. He was hitting the straights way too fast and was getting all bent out of shape mentally when stopping for roadworks and the one lane bridges. If you ride angry you burn a lot of energy. I was not surprised to find he never made it to Bluff.

Awanui duly arrived and I had enough time for a coffee and breakfast pie. Then off to the Cape. North of Houhora the road turns into a bikers dream. I backed off and just enjoyed the ride. Riders flew past but who cares? The last 20 kms would be a great leveller. A lot of riders had now worked out that the less time spent at a checkpoint the better. Arrive, sign in and go.

They are sealing the last 20kms and the roadworks were bad. But not like the previous night. The back end slid around a bit on the dampened clay but it was controllable and fun. I got held up in the traffic light at the end of the road. The bikes that ran the red in front of me came the other way 15 mins. later and I still hadn’t had my green. I got to sign in about 12.20 which was still fine by me.

My God, what have they done to Cape Reinga? The Cape has been ruined IMHO. The scenery is the story. Piped music, false gateways and pop culture maori-isms don’t cut it. No wonder the locals were pissed off. I got my photos, had a snack and left. Lets hope its doesn’t end up like Land’s End in the UK. As I rode away I was reminded of the line from Futurama when Bender says ‘Yeah, you're the kinda guy that wants to visit Jerusalem and doesn't want to see the Sexateria.’

With largely clear roads ahead I had a great run from Cape Reinga. We had family friends who had recently taken over a business in Houhora but I was so wrapped up in the ride that I sailed past. I had been eating crap for a few days so I decided a decent meal was the go. Especially as I’d saved a few bucks by missing a couple of meals. Talking of crap I got caught up in the middle of a cattle crossing where I went through a fresh one and it splattered all up my left boot.

I turned back onto SH10 and headed for Manognui. I went round the corner and stopped at the Waterfront Café and had a nice steak meal overlooking the harbour. There were 2 bikes outside, one of the new Triumph Thruxtons and an older Guzzi LeMans. The owners were touring the north for a few days and had never heard of the Cross. I had a Rusty newsletter with me in case they wouldn’t believe the schedule. We had a great chat over good food in the sunshine but not before I had washed my boots with a watering can obtained from the garage next door.

I got a call from home saying everyone would be out until 8.30 & could I record ‘Lost’? As trivial as this sounds I now had a target. I got to thinking maybe that is how to tackle the rally, one small target after another. One little victory at a time perhaps?

I saddled up and had a good run down to Kerikeri and the inevitable hidden cop but then I noticed my fuel getting low. It was 300k since the last fill and although I had a 6 litre reserve I liked to fill before I used the 18 litres before that. I limped into Pahia at 320 kms and filled up. That meant that I had another 100kms on reserve, very useful to know. I got a drink and headed for the beach. Wow, on the beach the foreign backpackers were versing the locals in a girls beach volleyball comp. I joined the crowd for as long as my drink lasted. Bikinis in late March. If this is what Global warming does then I want some more of it.

All too soon I was back on the road and headed for home. I went back to Kawakawa via the Opua road thus bypassing those bloody roadworks though I understand they had fixed them by then. Whangerei came and went although there were a few cops around. I took care not to annoy them. It was like that until Wellsford where I realised I needed to stop for the ATM. There was one at the food court so I got a quick coffee and changed into my warm gear because I was getting cold around the edges. Who should show up but that Charly character on the red airhead BMW? He told me he was riding with a hernia. Those rough roads must have been agony for him. A few others pulled up a little later. Had a quick chat but was soon on my way to keep to my target. I need not have worried. It was like they had cleared the toll road just for me. To add to that the rush hour was gone and I romped through Auckland to get home just after 8 pm. What’s more I didn’t waste any furries this time. Cleaning out possum from the hot parts of the bike is not something I want to do again. The aches and pains from the previous day had gone and I was glad to be home at least for the night. Three checkpoints down but still a few more kms to go though. How long could this weather hold?

[MaxB]

Thursday 26th - South Auckland to Wellington (649 kms)

I think I mentioned in other posts that for me the golden age of biking was when my previous employer used to supply cash for airfares for meetings at the Lower Hutt head office. I was paid to ride to Wellington! As time went on cheap flights and travel vouchers put an end to my expenses paid trips but the good thing to come out of it all was that I tried just about every way possible of getting down there. Plus on a Sunday night you would be lucky to see a single MOT patrol between Taupo and Bulls. Six and a bit hours would be a typical door to door time with one stop at Turangi.

This time I had to work in the morning and so would set off after lunch. In between jobs I did get the chance to back off the suspension settings, let a little air from the tyres and hose out the bellypan to get rid of the dust build up. I got rid of some of the luggage and added the ratchet tie downs I would need for the ferry and a can of chain lube.

After a light lunch I was on my way. SH1 was deserted but I still went down the Tahuna road and joined SH27 as far as Tirau when it was back onto SH1. Still no traffic. Where was everybody? In short I got on the bike at home and got off at Taupo for a tea time feed at McDs and to catch up with work before a turned off my work mobile for the rest of the trip.

I gassed up at BP for the ultimate and set off for my next stop at Bulls. There were a couple of cops on the road but nothing too drastic. I kept the speed down because I was getting cold. I zipped the thermal lining into my jacket as it got dark and was good to go. I got to Bulls just after dark. It was windy and pretty cold so I had a coffee and a snack. I put about half a tank of that 98 biofuel in at the Mobil and I must say that the bike purred like a kitten all the way to Wellington. My electronic friend picked up 7 cops on the way into the capital but I kept the speed in check. It was the most overpoliced road of the whole trip. Do they think we are like ‘hey I’ve seen 5 cops so now I’ll start speeding?’

A few more SX ers were out at this time of night and I tucked in behind as they picked their way south from Levin. I got to my motel in 8 and a bit hours but too late for a meal. I had enough with me to make do and besides I would get breakfast on the ferry. This was the most boring day of the trip but I thought at least I got there in one piece (again). The weather was going a bit off too.

[MaxB]

Friday 27th – Wellington to Dunedin via Picton (729 km)

My motel was not far from the Botannic Gardens, so it was a case of flopping out of bed, packing and down the hill to the terminal. I had to go past the rest home for the bewildered (the Beehive) and through a few sets of lights and I was there. My crossing was the 8.00am Bluebridge. At first I thought I had the sailing wrong because there was only one other bike waiting, a red R6. It turned out to be none other the fellow KBer Bogar who hails from Rotorua. The bike had been tricked out with some serious electronics: radar detector, GPS, coms and wireless in helmet speakers. All neatly packaged with proper plugs etc. With only the two of us there was plenty of bike space on the ferry.

For the record I used the side stand because I was offered a bulkhead to butt the front against as well as a chock for the rear. The mirror mounts and grabrail were used as the mounting points for the tie downs since they are both attached to metal subframes. Solid as a rock.

I got some breakfast on the boat but soon became aware that something wasn’t quite right. We were running late because when I went outside the northern coastline was still there large as life. A crew member told me we were running half an hour behind. No reason was given.

At least I could get a look at the scenery even if it was overcast. If ever you get too blasé about our landscape take the time to watch the reactions of tourists on the ferry for the first time. I’d say most of them were pretty impressed especially the ones who came over and told me so.

And so it was that we didn’t get off the ferry until 12.15. We made arrangements to travel some of the way together. In Blenheim I found a BP selling ultimate so I filled up. Bogar had stated his preference for taking it easier on the straights and carving up the corners whereas I wanted a more consistent pace but the road to Kaikoura offered a bit for both so off we went. The sun had come out as if to say ‘Welcome to the Mainland’

I led the way through Marlborough. The Seddon road/rail bridge has been replaced by a concrete version. I’ll miss the old bridge but not the traffic lights! As we headed for north Canterbury I got a warning on my detector so I slowed and gestured the whirly finger but at my side ‘cos I did not want to draw attention to myself. Bogar took that to mean overtake, clear road ahead. So he did. I felt terrible, what if he got a ticket? But we slowed down for a while when a sheep which had been laying on the left hand verge got up and ran across the road in front of Bogar. I had left enough of a gap to brake but Bogar was a bit too casual in hitting the brakes. Sheep have a habit of closing down the available space on a road but once the penny dropped he was on the anchors in plenty of time. The one thing I noticed about sheepy was how well groomed it was. Either the mainland farmers take really good care of their stock or it was a pet (or maybe a girlfriend!) The cop (a blue mufti Commodore) was parked up a few km down the road with his radar off. Smoko maybe?

I let the line out on Bogar a bit. As long as I could keep him in sight I was happy. On the long straights that was over a kilometre but catching up was only a twist of the throttle away. We caught up with the coastal roadworks and I don’t know why what happened next but when it was my turn to overtake a couple in a convertible they tried everything to stop the pass. Bogar swears he did nothing to upset them and I believe him. Some drivers just cannot stand being overtaken by a bike. The guy in the car was younger than me and balding maybe that’s his problem!

Bogar went ahead into Kaikoura to fill up his 17 litre tank and we caught up at the BP. He wanted to press on. His entire schedule for the day was printed out and his GPS was telling him where to go and what time he had to be there. In contrast I had an old envelope in my tank bag clear pocket with the word ‘Dunedin’ written on it and the number of where I was staying.

He was so into corners so I suggested the Inland road but he was on a direct mission so we agreed to meet again in Bluff. He headed off down SH1 and I headed for a café. Yep, I went snuffling round for the crayfish caravan, it was out on the way to the seal colony but the queue was round the block so I hopped back into town to the Why Not café. I had a leisurely lunch/tea, steak again. A couple on a BMW GS showed up and we got chatting. They were on a tour of the South Island and were renting a bike because they didn’t do the miles to warrant the bucks. They were having a great time and I’d bet a bike was on their shopping list when they got home. I travel on my own on the SCRR because I think it adds to the adventure but on a trip like this I never feel alone if you see what I mean. Just about everywhere I stop, people want to stop and talk. All I have to do is keep an eye on the time. It all adds to the experience.

Well if Bogar wasn’t going to do it I was, so off to the Inland Road I went, remembering the advice of a local mate not to gun it past the airport and sure enough there was a patrol car in wait. Onto SH70 on what is one of the best roads in the country. Twisties, mountain valleys, long straights and largely empty. Today was going to be a long haul down SH1 so I was going to damn well enjoy this. And I did. The only odd thing was around Mt Lyford where there were one lane roadworks on a hill. The workers were down in a gravel pit having smoko leaving one guy on the hilltop with the Stop/Go sign. WTF - he made me wait for ages with no one coming the other way (I could see). I guess he was having his fun but when I started to get off the bike the smile went from his face and I got my green.

The ironic thing was that the rest of the hill section was in worse condition than the roadworks. The corners had a bit of grit on them but nothing too bad. The road eventually dropped down into Waiau and straightens around Culverden. Hello officer. I saw him first. Have you noticed that anywhere you have overtaking lanes you have can have a cop waiting at the end, even though most lanes are now not long enough to safely overtake a truck doing 90kmh at the limit.

I rejoined the crowds at Waipara and bumbled into Christchurch. All the while the weather was turning greyer and rain was in the air. It was getting prematurely dark and very windy. I made the decision to abandon my southern trip past Mt. Hutt and take the bypass instead. So off at Belfast, past the airport and HeiHei. I think I broke my lane splitting record here. The traffic is ridiculous for a city of its size. By now it was about 230kms since Kaikoura so I made a quick fuel stop at Rakaia. Bloody windy. The traffic was slow going through Ashburton, the wind was very strong on the plains and as usual SH1 was very boring.

Timaru came and went with odd bursts of rain but the road stayed dry. As childish as it seems I was really pleased to cross the Waitaki River into Otago. Now there were just 2 provinces to go. By now it was getting dark and wet and it was with some relief that I stopped at Oamaru for fuel and to rug up and then I made the best decision of the trip. I did ……..nothing. I had a coffee and a Snickers bar and waited for the rain front to pass. It did. Others on the road ahead later told me they got soaked going through Palmerston. I kept asking the northbound cage drivers about the weather and finally (15 mins later) I got my confirmation. Go, go, go.

The plan backfired when I caught a minor front at Moeraki and the road spray kept my speed way down. I let a 4wd past so I could use its lights to pick my way through the wet road in the dark. After Palmerston the rain stopped and I pressed on with interest. I was in around 9 pm 8.75 hours after leaving Picton. That was 1.5 hours less than the last rally when it rained on me for over 10 hours. The motel was found quickly and there was a red BMW GS parked outside. No aches, no pains and I was largely dry. For me the most important day was over because if anything had gone wrong there would not have been time to make the finish. Sure I could have cut another hour off the travel time but the highlight for me was the Inland Road. Seeing the sunlight dancing on the fast flowing mountain streams as I blew past in the crisp cold air was an image that will stay with me for a long time.

Saturday 28th – Dunedin to Bluff (239kms)

This was it, the final day of the rally. Just a 240km trip down to the final checkpoint. The TV weather forecast said the front would pass with strong winds keeping further rain away. So I had a relaxed breakfast and waited it out. I was on the road by 9 am. It was quite cold but the sun was poking through. First stop Balclutha for fuel and then the Clinton-Mataura road to shake out the cobwebs. It started to rain. I missed the Edendale turn off but took the South City route to bypass Invercargill. The rain shower stopped again and I got to Stirling Point before midday largely dry. As I passed the Eagle tavern I noticed heaps of bikes outside. I got to the end, I had made it. Err where was everybody? There had been a rainstorm and the checkpoint was back at the Eagle. There were stray Rusties at the point telling us so. I got some photos and headed back to sign in. I got my T-shirt, a few beers and a great feed. Like last time I didn’t feel overjoyed at finishing just a quiet satisfaction that I had made it. And relief, plenty of relief. Oh well, only 2 years to the next one.



RALLY FINISH

I’d just like to thank Lee and everyone who was connected with this event. As he says these things can get addictive.

[MaxB]

Some photos from the trip

[Highlander]

Well done Max. Good ride, and a good read.

Hope to see you on the 2011 event.

[CookMySock]

What an epic mission. Thanks for the great read.

Steve

[shafty]

Yeah Max, well done Mate - and a great 'write up' - thanks

Shafty :headbang:

[KoroJ]

Nice one Max, Steve and I even managed to slip into one of your photos.

However, this is the 2nd SC in a row where you've tried to cut the story short. I feel we still have at least 1500Kms to read about and judging by your penchant for including Provinces and taking in magnificent vistas with circuitous stretches of macadam....that's probably more likely 1800 Kms.

[Highlander]

Nice one Max, Steve and I even managed to slip into one of your photos.

However, this is the 2nd SC in a row where you've tried to cut the story short. I feel we still have at least 1500Kms to read about and judging by your penchant for including Provinces and taking in magnificent vistas with circuitous stretches of macadam....that's probably more likely 1800 Kms.

Yup, after a ride like that unless you have to get back for work or family it just seems wrong not to take the long way home.

[shafty]

Nice one Max, Steve and I even managed to slip into one of your photos.

However, this is the 2nd SC in a row where you've tried to cut the story short. I feel we still have at least 1500Kms to read about and judging by your penchant for including Provinces and taking in magnificent vistas with circuitous stretches of macadam....that's probably more likely 1800 Kms.

Photo caption: "KoroJ, resplendent in his yellow M.O.W. raincoat, ready to mount his ST13"

LOL :yes:

[MaxB]

Yeah, I held off naming names (at least those I knew) figuring that those that wanted to would make themselves known.

I have had a few requests to document my trip home, so I better get started.

[KoroJ]

Photo caption: "KoroJ, resplendent in his yellow M.O.W. raincoat, ready to mount his ST13"

LOL :yes:

Nah, that's my $13 Warehouse Wets! I bought it for 1 GC figuring if it only lasted the one weekend and I stayed dry, it was worth it......That was in 2007! Damn it was a good buy.

[MaxB]

HOMEWARD BOUND

Saturday 28th – Bluff to Te Anau (216 kms)

The human body is an amazing thing. I did the rally with a broken thumb. It happened a few weeks previously playing sport with my son. I jury rigged a soft grip and a dressing that allowed some freedom of movement whilst fitting inside the gloves. My missus who is medically inclined showed me how to do my own dressing. Sweet. That is why I needed the painkillers and why I found it so difficult in the Mordor roadworks. By the Saturday it had healed enough to stop annoying me and I could look forward to the trip home.

My original plan was to crash in Bluff and go to the evening do. Whilst at the Eagle I was vaguely aware of a task I had to do but I was busy chomping on some venison. A few things made me uneasy, the weather was closing in from the West, rumours of price gouging were filtering back from Bluff motels and backpackers and every hour more and more people were leaving. I heard about 2/3 of the entrants left on Saturday arvo. Bogar had made it down on his first SCRR and was staying for the fun. So had the blue broken R6 guy. On reflection that was my happiest memory of the event, helping him (in a small way) out of situation where he was otherwise screwed.

I made a plan to leave the event and head out to Te Anau. I must admit that it was hard to leave the fireside and the company but once made I found it easy to stick to my decision. I went up to Invercargill for some chain lube from Super Cheap and to gas up. A quick spray and I was on my way.

By now the sun had actually come out but the very strong wind was driving the temp down. I was taking a favourite road from way back. Out to Riverton and up to Manapouri on the Clifden to Blackmount road. Parts of this road were unsealed when I first did it. But now it was part of the Southern Scenic tourist route and had been tarted up a bit. People some times ask why I have a bike like the ZZR – too big, too fast etc. Apart from it being a great luggage platform it shines on roads like SH99. Good visibility, low wire fences to see junctions (and through the corners) and fast sweepers are where a bike like this can be used to some of it’s potential. Time and place they say. Well. Yippee.

I still took it easy until Riverton, I like the place clinging as it does to the land around the estuary. Over the river bridge and the road opens out to Colac Bay, the surfie spot. After that the traffic dwindled to nothing and it was time to enjoy the ride. Zooming past the spectacular coast of Te Waewae Bay and the place where you can find gemstones on the beach was a highlight. On to Tuatapere past the campsite where that terrible attack took place. By all accounts it has pretty much stuffed tourism in this region. It is such a beautiful area. I wondered whether anyone would care if he ‘fell down the stairs’ in prison.

My dark thoughts receded as I crossed over the Waiau river and up onto higher country to Clifden past the old suspension bridge on the left and up the Blackmount road. Man it was seriously blowing fierce up this stretch. Only one thing for it, speed up. Then no worries, steady as a rock. I wondered how I would explain the arrowhead effect to a cop. ‘Well its like this officer, at 80kmh I’m being blown into the oncoming traffic but at (Insert Your Speed Here) things are way more steady’. It might be a case of taking the ticket but staying alive.

Anyway about 90 km and what seemed like minutes later I rolled into Manapouri. Down by the lakeside there are some new upmarket houses. Hope this doesn’t become another Queenstown because Lake Manapouri is one of the nicest lakes in NZ. About 10 minutes later I rolled into Te Anau and found my motel. I wonder what the American couple at reception thought of the scruffy biker bowling up and getting B&B for $99 when they had just paid $130 for a room? I was handed a card in Dunedin at the same chain and stuffed it in my tankbag. It turned out to be a Kiwis only discount card. Choice. That was my evening feed taken care of. As it was Earth hour they turned the lights off in the middle of dinner so I couldn’t see what I was eating. A charming French waitress named Gabrielle lit some candles for us. I was adopted as the person most likely to practice her English on. It was a struggle until a Pommie tourist took over. She was a French teacher. Problem solved.

I am a bit guilty of people watching sometimes and I noticed another older tourist couple tucked away trying to have an intimate evening. The first clue is that they were dressed for dinner, the second is that they were speaking in whispers. They were getting a bit frisky so my guess is that they had not been married for a long time or even to each other. Their night was interrupted by a hard case character who was a tour bus operator over from Otago. How could I resist? A couple of scotches later and we talked into the night on topics like stunt motorcycles vs monster trucks and the best engine: inline 6 or V8, Chiefs or Highlanders etc. Civilised conversation. Plus I got a heap of intel for tomorrow’s blast out to Milford Sound.

[MaxB]

Sunday 29th – Te Anau to Wanaka via Milford Sound (518 kms)

I had an easy breakfast in the motel and pondered over the info I had been given. Basically the coaches run in tune with the Sound cruises. On a Sunday as long as I was away from the sound by early arvo I would have a clear run in at least one direction. I had to ask a business in town and they would tell me where the law enforcement was. It was getting like ‘The Amazing Race’ I was wondering if it was all going to be worth it. I fuelled up and was on the road at the correct time. The Homer tunnel happens about the 100km mark. The traffic light phases can be 15mins apart so going for a PB along this road is not big or clever. The further in I got the wetter than roads became but there was always a dry (read quick) line through. I caught up with 2 SCRR riders (red Bandit and black GSX1400 I think) at the tunnel but they were doing their own thing. I popped through the tunnel and noticed the seal the other side was soaked. I used the opportunity to rid myself of those pesky campervans all bunched in one glorious overtakable huddle. When I got to the Milford Sound car park the 2 other bikes were quite a way behind which is why a clear run on this road is so important.

I relaxed at Milford Sound and sucked up the scenery. I grabbed a drink and a bar and wandered around. The weather was closing in a bit and I stayed mindful of the advice to be away before the first cruises were over. The other two bikers looked like they were headed for a cruise. Fiordland is a truly wonderful place, one of our gems. I got my pics and got chatting to a tour guide. He told me he had left a promising career (a little similar to mine) to set up an Eco Tourism business from a base in Riverton. The amazing thing is how little he had to do to become ‘Eco’. The tour van was a luxury coach on a Transit chassis that ran on BioDiesel. The trick to convince the tourists is to have an ‘Eco’ explanation for everything. So his hotel power came from hydro, heating from renewable wood sources and the hotel itself was a restored older building. I must admit I found this a bit amusing until he told me how much he was making. One other point he made was that he was surprised to see bikes out this late in the season since the autumn snows should have started by now. Snow?? what is he talking about? Writing this now I can see that the snow flurries have started. I guess you have to recalibrate your weather brain when you live down here.

I headed out through the scenery up to the tunnel. There was no longer any fuel available at the Sound (there is to commercial operators) and I had used a bit getting there. So I had to be careful on the way back. I got up to the tunnel lights and it was on red. Then it started to rain and get a lot colder. Great. At least I had my Nordic jacket on and was toasty warm. I know I slagged off Dririder tank bags this year but this jacket really is excellent. It seems to have been designed by someone who actually rides in shitty weather. I have owned much more expensive jackets that are not as good.

The ride back was slower but I still overtook where required so I could travel unhindered. I came round a corner near Cascade Creek to find a hippy sat in the road playing a guitar in the drizzle. Luckily for him he was on the other side of the road. The other backpackers were up a wooden staircase waiting for their pick up but our hippy friend decided to put on a show. He had a multicoloured woollen pointy hat that made him look like a gay garden gnome. I gave him a serve with the horn. He moved a bit but was still in a position to be collected by the next coach from Te Anau. Maybe his pointy hippy hat gave him special powers of invincibility?

Onwards I sped, past a load of Asian tourists at a rest stop. I thought about arsing about but then realised that they were packing a lot of technology and most of it was pointing at me. I did want to get on YouTube for all the wrong reasons. So I backed off. Hunger led me back to Te Anau and a local bakery that sold venison pies. Yum. Then gas up and go. Even the sun had come out.

The detour into Fiordland meant it was Sunday arvo and I was still heading South East on SH94. Who care’s? Yet another brilliant Southland road. I like this place. Soon I would be hooking up with the link to SH6 at Mossburn and I would be heading north again. The 80 km to the Queenstown was packed full of cars heading somewhere in the last few daylight hours of the weekend. The closer I got to Lake Wakatipu and into Otago the worse it got. I overtook where I could but it was still slow going. I saw 3 cops on this stretch including 2 at the end of overtaking lanes. At least I got past heaps of traffic at the lights on the Kawarau bridge.

I went right out onto SH6 and joined the magnificent Crown Range road. I guess you can read about it in my previous SCRR 07 report. This time it was warmer and lighter and I travelled it slightly slower. There were heaps of campervans at the Southern end but they were dispatched with a twist of the wrist. You know the drill. Look above you to see if anything is on the road, blast past the campervan out of a hairpin and line up the next one. Soon I was free to enjoy the road. 50 km of sheer bliss. Down the hill into Wanaka and I found my regular haunt had closed down. I went down to the reserve that lies at the top end of town and just blobbed in the late afternoon sun. The lake and the mountains stretched out in front of me. I was like a cat on a window sill. I phoned my son and he booked a place on the net 300m from where I was sitting. That night in New World I ran into yet another SCRR finisher, a guy on a BMW from Auckland. Back at the motel I had a feed and spent some time chatting to my neighbours who were on the decks outside their units. One old fella had knocked off half a bottle of scotch with his wife and were sharing the rest. They were so happy with their lot I wondered if I would be that happy when I’m old.

[MaxB]

Monday 30th – Wanaka to Hokitika (425 kms)

I awoke to the sound of gentle knocking on the door. It was my cooked breakfast. I discovered it was part of the price. It was then I remembered what I had to do. The end of year stuff for my business. Working on my holiday sucks. I finally cleared the decks around luchtime but it was obvious I would need to be near a bank tomorrow. That gave me Hokitika or Greymouth as my targets for the day. That meant the Haast Pass. Three of my five favourite roads in three days. I’m in paradise.

I set off around lunch time and was looking forward to a decent trip to Haast where the Fantail Café awaited. The road north was spectacular (I’m running out of words here). Around the top of Lake Hawea as the road dips into Mt Aspiring National Park something flashed across my path. WTF? It was too small for a deer, too big for a rat and it was not a rabbit or possum. It was a giant bouncing mouse aka a wallaby. I guess it was no bigger than a cat and was staring at me from the edge of the road. I slowed but there was no way of getting my camera unpacked in time. The Aussie import slowly hopped into a stand of trees above the road and vanished. In all my years of travelling round the Mainland I have never seen a wallaby. I work with a fair few Mainlanders and when I told them of my ‘find’ not one of them was impressed. They all had their wallaby stories, most better than mine. One had a wallaby fur hat. Oh well. To this jaded North Islander it was a great experience. We used to have them but I think they were put on an island and shot as spies or something.

I figured that they were too small to hurt me on the bike so I pressed on. I had a date with the Gates of Haast. Even the name sounds straight out of a Sci-fi movie. I did this road in a car not so long ago and it was crap. I mean really crap. The corners just don’t flow as well. I reckon a bike is the only way to see this part of the world.

The road was wet coming through the gates and pretty slippery although it was not actually raining. I passed a black beat up Nissan Stagea at one of the lookouts. By the look of the couple driving I would guess they were backpacker tourist types. A few ks down the road I was aware I was being followed. I got stuck behind a campervan on double yellows and the Stagea caught up with the male driving. All the passes I did legally were followed by the Stagea overtaking wherever he felt like to keep up. The double yellows were not so bad but the worse were the blind corners. He was over the centre line for a very long time each overtake. I tried to let them by but they would not go past and finally I spotted a council gritting bay by the Haast river and nailed it to get ahead. I signalled and physically left the road and stopped. He came past on the straight at about 160 kmh screaming the tits off the car. Good riddance.

I saw a campervan catching me up so I pulled in front of it and set off to enjoy the road. By now a dry line was available and I could press on a bit. Before long I had caught the Stagea but held back and watched. The problem was obvious, the lines through the corners were all wrong causing him to run wide on the exit. Sometimes it didn’t matter because he just straightlined left right combos whether there were double yellows or not.

In the last 15-20kms before Haast I will admit to being immature. I tucked in behind our hero matching his move for move (except I stayed in my lane). He wasn’t going anywhere. I made damn sure he knew where I was at all times. I wondered how he liked someone hanging off his rear fender. I saw the girl hitting him on the arm, I guess she had had enough. The pressure finally told and only a few ks out of Haast he pulled over. I managed to get a look into the car. There were shopping bags with a German store logo on them so maybe they were Germans?

I got to the Fantail and ordered my late lunch. No venison pies but they still had some nice stuff. As I was tucking in who should drive past and park but the Stagea. They saw the bike and then me and drove off. A few minutes later I was joined by the couple who had got engaged at the Eagle, Alan and Jennifer. They were on a BMW 650GS. It has a lot of goodies on it and was well set up for touring. We had a good chat but soon it was time for me to be on my way.

I was on my own again. I was travelling at a much more leisurely pace up what is my favourite part of NZ the West Coast. Almost every place has a special memory for me. Lake Paringa, Fox, Okarito. On this trip I was not going to stop at any of them. Shame. In fact the next stop was a fuel stop at Franz Josef. Before that I came across a rental car stopped on a one lane bridge so narrow the driver couldn’t fully open her door. A guy in a Westland council truck was abusing her as he had right of way. On the parcel tray was a German–English dictionary. I had to back up to let her out. Germans, eh?

The last 100ks to my motel in Hokitika was punctuated by roadworks. My ride was made more pleasant by yet another SCRR finisher on a BMW R1100GS. He ripped through the goat track roadworks like they weren’t even there. Maybe that is the perfect bike for real NZ conditions. I caught him in the open but as soon as the twisties got super tight or the road got really rough, he got past while my teeth were being shaken out. There were 2 cops on this bit of road. One was near Ross in a HiLux ute, the radar was on but I’m not entirely sure that they were going to catch much in that! A more familiar HP car was hiding in the grass on the straights into Hokitika.

Motel sorted walk, drink, food, more drink, bed.

[MaxB]

Tuesday 31st – Hokitikia to Picton (390 kms)

My plan for today was to go up to Nelson to see friends and up to Takaka but in the first few minutes of trying to get some work done it became obvious that I was needed back at work. What pissed me off is that I had already ‘bought’ the time for the SCRR by working 60 and 80 hour weeks and I had a lot of time remaining. Then I had to rearrange the ferry so I ended up losing a day of my break. But I couldn’t bring myself to spend another night in Wellington because that meant leaving the South Island. Fuck it, I’m coming back to finish this holiday.

So I spent yet another morning working. Hokitika is actually a really nice place even the bank, post office etc are in easy reach. Everyone I spoke to was really happy. Maybe they put Prozac in the water?

So it was that I set off for Picton around lunchtime. The sun was shining in a cloudless sky. Up to Greymouth through more roadworks by the road/rail bridges and out towards Reefton on SH7. I was missing the Buller gorge and Punakaiki this time. They are roads best enjoyed when there is no traffic and for some reason there was plenty out today. I cleared out past the traffic by Stillwater and passed a truck stop that had the words ‘arm’ and ‘leg’ where the fuel price usually sits on the sign. My fuel stop was Reefton. I was offered a job here and it was interesting to see how well the town was doing. The cross on the hill denotes the Globe Hill mine area. I guess when you are in a high risk environment you need all the help you can get.

I wanted a Twix bar with my fill but the mature lady serving had never heard of them. I had to describe what a Twix bar was. Blank looks. I gave up and headed off for my lunch. I joined the Buller road at Inangahua and wound through the twisties for my lunch stop at Murchison. The lady owner of the café was from Huntly, I identified myself as a Chiefs supporter and scored an extra pie and coffee. I left refreshed for the 150km or so to Picton. Clip the edge of the Kahurangi National Park then up to Kawatiri and turn onto SH63 up the Wairau Valley. I cannot think of a road better suited to the big Ninja than this. There were even more roadworks on a stop/go sign. I made sure I was riding sensibly as I neared Renwick. Talking of which I missed Rapaura Rd in another set of roadworks and bailed and took the Old Renwick Rd into Blenheim then up into Picton.

At the town end of Wairau Road well inside the 50k sign lurked a cop car in HP colours. I was painted 3 times in 100 metres. Maybe he was bored. Maybe the end of the month was quota time. I guess it’s a cash cow, nailing tourists on this stretch. I got to thinking that most of the tourists will come from places with a far superior and safer driving standard than us.

Motel found quickly and I got to park the bike outside the unit. My last night on the Mainland.

[MaxB]

Wednesday 1st April - Picton to Auckland (645kms)

Got up in time for the 8 am Blubridge. Roll down the hill in the rain to the terminal They took ages on the check in and I was left out in the pouring rain for 30 minutes with other bikes. A ZX14 and Busa from the SCRR were there but the owners were in the lounge. I was told I could get out of the rain there but even before I had dismounted we got the call to board. On the bike deck we were joined by a Concours and a Transalp.

The crossing was quite rough but all that meant for me was that the café was empty. The rain was drizzle by now and I could see clearing skies up north. I managed to find a place to stretch out and dry my gear and by the time we got into Wellington I was warm and dry again.

I was on the road by midday all kitted up and ready for leg 1. It was pretty overcast but never actually rained until Bulls. SH1 out of Wellington is a joke. It has always needed a motorway at least until Palmerston North. My only memories of this stretch are cops and roadworks, more cops and more roadworks until Otaki. Maybe it was the contrast to the South Island roads that made me so grumpy.

I got to Bulls and put that 98 biofuel in the bike. Straight up SH1 through the Manawatu and onwards. One tip is that if your average speed is affected by crowded roads then don’t get off the bike. So Taihape, Waiouru, the desert road and Turangi came and went. Actually the Desert Road was kind of fun because I followed this guy in a hotted up car. I kept back a bit and used him as a cop magnet but there were none. I got to Taupo in good time and lets face it the Lake is stunning and rivals the South Island for scenery.

McCafé for tea and BP for the Ultimate AND they had Twixes! So back to Auckland I went on a road I have travelled hundreds of times. Up through Tokoroa, Tirau, Matamata and Tahuna, Ohinewai and up the motorway the 60 or so ks to my house. I got a great welcome from the kids and the missus was out not expecting me home so early. I was glad to be home and the bike was safe and sound. Another Southern Cross under my belt.

Total kms for the trip = 6354

The End

[MaxB]

Here are some photos from the homeward leg. Enjoy.

1. Homer Tunnel
2. Milford Sound
3. Sunset over Lake Wanaka
4. Franz Josef

[ntst8]

Excellent write up, couldn't agree more about SH1 in/out of Wellington.