View Full Version : The DR-Z400 thread
Tony W
19th April 2009, 22:13
Let's start one...
sAsLEX
19th April 2009, 22:15
ok. I have a 06, best buy ever! Though my first non-honda....
Tony W
20th April 2009, 06:09
ok. I have a 06, best buy ever! Though my first non-honda....
OK, better put up some pix..!:yes:
MXNUT
20th April 2009, 09:10
Just brought a new long range Acerbis 16L fuel tank fuel tank for mine only to find that is does not fit the 2003 models onwards which have larger radiators. :Oops:
Fits 2000 to 2002 models only.
Tank is now for sale --- link here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?p=2035342)
Otherwise apart from the plank that they call a seat i love mine.
Got a new rear knobbly to fit this week for the KCAR on Anzac weekend
Tony W
20th April 2009, 12:59
Just bought a new long range Acerbis 16L fuel tank fuel tank for mine only to find that is does not fit the 2003 models
Bugger. How did that happen...
MXNUT
20th April 2009, 13:18
Bugger. How did that happen...
I knew the tank was for a 2000 -2002 model and did as much research as i could before i brought it.
I have since found that the tank for the later models will fit all E models from 00 to 09 as it has more clearance :bash: but that the tank for the earlier models will not fit the later models :stupid:
Oscar
20th April 2009, 15:35
I've got a '02 EK Model.
I bought it brand new, did two rides on it and sold it to a guy who lowered it, and then almost immediately traded it in to a Suzuki Dealer. It then sat there until the dealer sold up and he put it in his shed for a rainy day.
I bought it back a coupla months back, with 2,300km's on the clock.
As far as I can determine, owners 2 & 3 rode it no more than 800km.
I've put the suspension back to standard (anyone wanna buy the dog bones to shorten it?). I'm now waiting for a carb seal kit from Japan as the seals degraded while it was sitting).
Baldyman
20th April 2009, 16:05
I too have an '06 road legal version. Great bike.
http://i544.photobucket.com/albums/hh342/Baldymann/Copyof30November008.jpg
young1
20th April 2009, 20:04
I have a 2002 model, great bike, the non road legal one. Gets very little use ie one trail ride this year and one last year!
You mechanics out there may be able to help with this. I have just found (before what would have been the 2nd trial ride this year) thta when the bike warms up I have a slight oil leak from behind the front sprocket. Is it a biggie to get that fixed?
Taz
20th April 2009, 20:09
I want one. I've just got to sell the Ducati or the KDX......
zeRax
20th April 2009, 20:33
very very awesome bikes :) and mine is better because its snot
bart
20th April 2009, 21:21
Mines an EK6SL. Love it, and I'm probably going to cry when I sell it soon.
Taz
20th April 2009, 21:25
My previous DRZ400. Off road only...... Bought this new, Threw in an ohlins shock and raced it at ardmore. as well as X country. Awesome bike.
junkmanjoe
20th April 2009, 21:59
Mines an EK6SL. Love it, and I'm probably going to cry when I sell it soon.
whats this bart,,,, what you up to mate...is that falcon still in the shed...
Woody2
20th April 2009, 22:46
I've got a '02 EK Model.
I've put the suspension back to standard (anyone wanna buy the dog bones to shorten it?). I'm now waiting for a carb seal kit from Japan as the seals degraded while it was sitting).
Hi Oscar, Ive got the same model as you and am looking to lower mine pm the details on what you are after and I'll come back to you.
Oscar
20th April 2009, 22:48
Hi Oscar, Ive got the same model as you and am looking to lower mine pm the details on what you are after and I'll come back to you.
Too late.
I got a PM about 5 minutes after posting that.
zeRax
21st April 2009, 06:32
why would u sell it @_@ oh my gosh
Mines an EK6SL. Love it, and I'm probably going to cry when I sell it soon.
buggsubique
21st April 2009, 07:49
same reason I did brother - can't afford two bikes! otherwise I'd still have my yellow machine in the shed too!
Taz
21st April 2009, 08:30
I have a 2002 model, great bike, the non road legal one. Gets very little use ie one trail ride this year and one last year!
You mechanics out there may be able to help with this. I have just found (before what would have been the 2nd trial ride this year) thta when the bike warms up I have a slight oil leak from behind the front sprocket. Is it a biggie to get that fixed?
Yes HUGE job. The things stuffed, I'll give you a grand for it :lol:
Oh hang on it's not road legal. Damn.
But seriously probably just a leaky countershaft seal. Can be replaced by removing the sprocket and prying out the old seal then install the new one. First check that your sprocket nut is tight as they've been known to come loose.
young1
21st April 2009, 13:25
Yes HUGE job. The things stuffed, I'll give you a grand for it :lol:
Oh hang on it's not road legal. Damn.
But seriously probably just aq leaky countershaft seal. Can be replaced by removing the sprocket and prying out the old seal then install the new one. First check that your sprocket nut is tight as they've been known to come loose.
Thank you, will do that
M
bart
21st April 2009, 13:40
whats this bart,,,, what you up to mate...is that falcon still in the shed...
Can't part with the old V8
why would u sell it @_@ oh my gosh
same reason I did brother - can't afford two bikes! otherwise I'd still have my yellow machine in the shed too!
I find I'm traveling further and further, and unfortunately, the little 4 hundy just aint pretty on a 300km plus ride. Need 2 bikes, but have you seen the price of a rego lately.:pinch:
DRZ will be missed. Can't be beaten for short rides.
Taz
21st April 2009, 17:52
Thank you, will do that
M
Output shaft seal is apparently exclusive to Suzuki. Also check the clutch arm seal as these will leak also but these are available from most seal shops. Take the old one in as a sample or just the numbers off it if you need one.
MXNUT
23rd April 2009, 14:30
New rear tyre fitted last night FIM road legal ( barely ) full knobbly for this weekends KCAR ride. :woohoo:
I expect by Monday morning it will be totaly trashed.:bash:
O well at least it was a trademe cheapie. :innocent:
Newguy
7th May 2009, 21:13
Here is my Z, she is a 2004 E model, I later fitted a S subframe to carry some luggage
What she looked like when I bought her:
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/UYcxLpsKNyE27KCxxrA9Ig"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_J_C8w7718vM/Ry6t0729vpI/AAAAAAAAANk/pF4X_peySP0/s400/100_1692.JPG" /></a>
What she looks like now,
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/N9_4Nfi1IP7VGWmqYJl2hg?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_J_C8w7718vM/SgKsRTUIbjI/AAAAAAAABoM/RWtVFshpVvU/s800/MyZ.JPG" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/cSyZ5XVKI0n1DHoUfvVwhQ"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_J_C8w7718vM/SSQcXt1W8iI/AAAAAAAABQU/3T1sKDzqaiM/s400/100_0070.JPG" /></a>
Da zorst
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QgL8mF6sPUzDFyOYLwxs7g?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_J_C8w7718vM/SgKjl2ZiRYI/AAAAAAAABoI/KMfJwLffIWo/s800/IMAGE_057.jpg" /></a>
Changes made to bike:
RV Aqualine 28 liter tank
Renthal Fatbar and billeted bar clamp risers
Full yellow plastics
BMW Dakar Screen
Polisport Handgaurds
Polisport Tail light
LED Indicators
Trailmax Vapor
Akrapovic Titanium
One industries tail decal
Hyde Developments Skid plate
K&N Airfilter.
Dyno Jetting
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Cqxu6JurDaZ78x3xwkYYnA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_J_C8w7718vM/SgKjl_5sKiI/AAAAAAAABoE/Anl0Dv8TWfA/s800/dyno.JPG" /></a>
Wow.
How many miles has she done?
tri boy
7th May 2009, 21:33
I have a 2002 model, great bike, the non road legal one. Gets very little use ie one trail ride this year and one last year!
You mechanics out there may be able to help with this. I have just found (before what would have been the 2nd trial ride this year) thta when the bike warms up I have a slight oil leak from behind the front sprocket. Is it a biggie to get that fixed?
That oil leak is probably related to the o-ring inside the sprocket spacer that fits over the counter shaft.
I normally order a new counter shaft seal, new spacer, and new o-ring. About $80 genuine parts. the spacer gets a groove cut in it by the seal, so fitting the new parts kills two possible leaks in one repair. also make sure your crankcase breather is clean.;)
PS, i'm lurking in this thread because i secretly like the dog rooters.
Newguy
7th May 2009, 21:33
I bought her in November 2007 with 3000km on the clock.
She now has about 18000km on the clock.
Paladin
7th May 2009, 23:18
I bought her in November 2007 with 3000km on the clock.
She now has about 18000km on the clock.
15000k's - ooh bet the callouses on yer arse are an inch thick with that seat! Heehee!
;)
Willdat?
8th May 2009, 07:33
I'm saving madly to get gravel ready tyres for my SM, which Nordie took a fantastic photo of last weekend!
I'd love to have two, an E and an SM, but I should probably get this one paid off first...
I bought a DRZ - eater :).
HungusMaximist
15th May 2009, 13:19
There's a motorcycle courier using here in Aucks.
How good are they on gas?
Would be keen, but I know they won't do motorways that well.
Pros and cons compared to a DR650?
Why are my back brake pads absolutely rooted, when my front ones have heaps of life left. They are the original pads. Is it my riding style, or the fact the back disc is always covered in dust, so more abrasive.
Anyone else notice this with the DRZ.
There's a motorcycle courier using here in Aucks.
How good are they on gas?
Would be keen, but I know they won't do motorways that well.
Pros and cons compared to a DR650?
Geared right the DRZ will sit on 110 all day. You sacrafice the other end though, so becomes very high geared for off road.
Dr650 has a wider gearbox, so better for road. Very heavy offroad compared though.
If you're planning 70% road, 30% gravel and offroad, buy DR650
If you're planning 30% road, 70% gravel and offroad, buy DRZ400
Very similar power. DRZ is good for shorter trips, but if you're planning longer trips (300km plus a day) the 650 is just way easier to live with.
My 2 cents :bleh:
buggsubique
17th May 2009, 20:41
Why are my back brake pads absolutely rooted, when my front ones have heaps of life left. They are the original pads. Is it my riding style, or the fact the back disc is always covered in dust, so more abrasive.
Anyone else notice this with the DRZ.
not me...?
junkmanjoe
17th May 2009, 20:47
Why are my back brake pads absolutely rooted, when my front ones have heaps of life left. They are the original pads. Is it my riding style, or the fact the back disc is always covered in dust, so more abrasive.
Anyone else notice this with the DRZ.
just a note here bart.
i changed my pads to day and front ones where fuked next to nothing on the pads, but back had heaps meat on them.
owner before me must have been a hard front brake man.
i use rear more than front, or both togeather.
NordieBoy
17th May 2009, 20:48
Geared right the DRZ will sit on 110 all day. You sacrafice the other end though, so becomes very high geared for off road.
Dr650 has a wider gearbox, so better for road. Very heavy offroad compared though.
You could even say...
Out of the box the DR650 will sit on 110 all day. You sacrifice the other end though, so becomes very high geared for off road.
junkmanjoe
17th May 2009, 20:52
yip hear that, factory gearing to high for off road, and next to no engine brakeing, for down hill.. i had a couple hairy moments on a down hill slide................:eek:
I must admit, I'm constantly toying with that point where you lock up the back wheel. You can time the sway as you enter the corner and back it in. Awesome.
May be contributing to crap rear tyre wear also. No more TKC80's for me. Cheap shit from now on.
Geared right the DRZ will sit on 110 all day. You sacrafice the other end though, so becomes very high geared for off road.
That's why I went for the KTM525 in the end. 6 speed gearbox and with 15 45 gearing it has a ratio for every occasion while still pulling 150+ km/h measured by GPS. Very smooth on the road and returns 18.5km/l on knobbies and more on the motard wheels....... But this is the DRZ thread so i'll butt out now :)
junkmanjoe
17th May 2009, 20:58
with the factory gearing 15/41 for 12L tank i got 230kms
with the factory gearing 15/41 for 12L tank i got 230kms
The whole 12 litres or 230 to reserve?
junkmanjoe
17th May 2009, 21:35
was a full tank. i used to carry a jerry can with me
MXNUT
18th May 2009, 08:57
Why are my back brake pads absolutely rooted, when my front ones have heaps of life left. They are the original pads. Is it my riding style, or the fact the back disc is always covered in dust, so more abrasive.
Anyone else notice this with the DRZ.
BART ..... i would suggest this is down to riding style as i have excactly the same issue and on long tight twisty gravel roads i have overheated my rear brake several times.
Basicaly i come from a dirt bike riding background where as long as the front wheel is pointing where i want it i dont worry about what the back is doing.
This means that on any surface other than seal, i am using the back brake more than the front and the back wheel is often going sideways into the corner.... fun ... fun .... fun - but as you say not great for rear tyre life.
Expensive brand rear tyres have not lasted that well for me either so now its the $55 trade me specials :bleh:
Oscar
18th May 2009, 10:21
BART ..... i would suggest this is down to riding style as i have excactly the same issue and on long tight twisty gravel roads i have overheated my rear brake several times.
Basicaly i come from a dirt bike riding background where as long as the front wheel is pointing where i want it i dont worry about what the back is doing.
This means that on any surface other than seal, i am using the back brake more than the front and the back wheel is often going sideways into the corner.... fun ... fun .... fun - but as you say not great for rear tyre life.
Expensive brand rear tyres have not lasted that well for me either so now its the $55 trade me specials :bleh:
I'm pleased to know that I'm not the only one with that problem.
I used to boil the rear brake fluid on my F650 a lot on gravel and even managed it on my 950adv.
Ahhhh, so I'm not the only one.
I used to ride like that on road bikes also. $350 back tyres would only last 3000km.
I'd better throw some new brake pads in before the south island trip then.
and the back wheel is often going sideways into the corner.... .
And off the edge of the corner and into the ditch and along the ditch and back onto the road :bleh:
Was fun to watch tho!!:niceone:
bart
16th August 2009, 23:03
2006 DRZ400. Road legal. Full hp version. Just under 11000km (mostly commuting and adventure stuff). Runs real well. Quite a few extras.
I'll be cleaning it up and posting on TM in the next few days.
sAsLEX
17th August 2009, 09:21
DRZ brake levers leave nice holes, snuck in next to my armour and now have some nice stitches!
buggsubique
17th August 2009, 18:55
2006 DRZ400. Road legal. Full hp version. Just under 11000km (mostly commuting and adventure stuff). Runs real well. Quite a few extras.
I'll be cleaning it up and posting on TM in the next few days.
watcha getting instead Bart?
NordieBoy
17th August 2009, 20:37
watcha getting instead Bart?
I'd guess he's upgrading to a DR650 to experience the rush of a big bore bike :D
bart
17th August 2009, 21:30
I'd guess he's upgrading to a DR650 to experience the rush of a big bore bike :D
You sure it's not a big boring bike. I'm struggling to get excited about the 650.
I spent all day pulling the 400 to bits and cleaning it. All day I looked over at the 650, and I dunno. I guess it'll grow on me.
NordieBoy
17th August 2009, 22:00
You sure it's not a big boring bike. I'm struggling to get excited about the 650.
I spent all day pulling the 400 to bits and cleaning it. All day I looked over at the 650, and I dunno. I guess it'll grow on me.
Suspension and FCR39 or TM40 and it'll be a different beast.
JATZ
17th August 2009, 22:07
You sure it's not a big boring bike. I'm struggling to get excited about the 650.
I spent all day pulling the 400 to bits and cleaning it. All day I looked over at the 650, and I dunno. I guess it'll grow on me.
Yup...... I think MarkS nailed it when he said they were "BLAND"
but they can be endlesly farkled
Edit:.... except yours Nordie, that is anything but bland, but FFS you musta put some hours into it
Woodman
17th August 2009, 22:10
You sure it's not a big boring bike. I'm struggling to get excited about the 650.
I spent all day pulling the 400 to bits and cleaning it. All day I looked over at the 650, and I dunno. I guess it'll grow on me.
I could make a suggestion about what you coulda done, and you can get red ones.(faster):laugh:
marks
17th August 2009, 22:26
but they can be endlesly farkled
you need to so you don't fall asleep while riding it....
NordieBoy
18th August 2009, 07:21
Edit:.... except yours Nordie, that is anything but bland, but FFS you musta put some hours into it
Waddaya mean?
All I've done is changed the tyres and put some handguards on it.
NordieBoy
18th August 2009, 07:24
you need to so you don't fall asleep while riding it....
Says the man who put a Jardine on so he could tell if it had stalled or not.
Taz
18th August 2009, 08:14
I personally would have stayed with the DRZ........ Or get a nice orange 525!!
marks
18th August 2009, 08:19
Says the man who put a Jardine on so he could tell if it had stalled or not.
its not that at all
its so I can make believe that I'm going fast :Punk:
bart
18th August 2009, 19:56
Ok, bland it will be. I'm going to turn it into a 'stealth bomber'...........except, it's not very stealthy with that pipe.
Tony W
18th August 2009, 20:23
ok, bland it will be. I'm going to turn it into a 'stealth bomber'...........except, it's not very stealthy with that pipe.
pic !!!!!!
bart
18th August 2009, 21:30
pic !!!!!!
Here ya go
Aslan
18th August 2009, 21:47
Bart - congrats on the machine - seems from the photo that the zukis have graduated from the woodshed I seem to recall in an earlier post - assume the family Ford lives outside :Punk:
Oscar
19th August 2009, 00:02
I got a brand new Twin Air Filter for a DRZ400 and a Clymer Manual.
Make me an offer...
Padmei
19th August 2009, 07:39
Is it new or 2nd hand. Congrats on the new purchase. Maybe won't rip like the DRZ but hell of a lot more comfy on the transport legs. Gives some of us a chance to try to keep up with ya!
bart
19th August 2009, 21:48
Bart - congrats on the machine - seems from the photo that the zukis have graduated from the woodshed I seem to recall in an earlier post - assume the family Ford lives outside :Punk:
Thanks Aslan.
Yeah, my poor old Falcon. :crybaby::crybaby::crybaby:
The family car (the other one) is always outside.
Once the 400 goes, the 650 will inherit the wood shed. :laugh:
Caught me out a bit this year. All my wood is stacked outside. It's rained that much that it won't burn. I need a bigger shed. Wife won't let me park the bikes in the conservatory. :lol:
bart
19th August 2009, 21:52
Is it new or 2nd hand. Congrats on the new purchase. Maybe won't rip like the DRZ but hell of a lot more comfy on the transport legs. Gives some of us a chance to try to keep up with ya!
2nd hand. It's all over on the dr650 thread. Falling off the new one may hurt more.
Woodman
19th August 2009, 22:26
Thanks Aslan.
Yeah, my poor old Falcon. :crybaby::crybaby::crybaby:
The family car (the other one) is always outside.
Once the 400 goes, the 650 will inherit the wood shed. :laugh:
Caught me out a bit this year. All my wood is stacked outside. It's rained that much that it won't burn. I need a bigger shed. Wife won't let me park the bikes in the conservatory. :lol:
Bart, how the hell can you be a Ford man??, you ride a DR650 for gods sake!!
its just not in the order of things, either get a klr or a holden.:2guns:
bart
20th August 2009, 21:40
Bart, how the hell can you be a Ford man??, you ride a DR650 for gods sake!!
its just not in the order of things, either get a klr or a holden.:2guns:
Just to rub it in, the old ones a 5 litre manual fairmont ghia (rare as rocking horse shit), and the grocery wagon is a 4 litre Ford Terratory. Hell of a carbon footprint. :Punk: :Offtopic:
With the 650 and the 400, that gives me 10050cc's. Who wants to buy my DRZ400 to get me back under 10 litres. :laugh:
bart
20th August 2009, 21:42
Mint DRZ400 over here
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-237305103.htm
NordieBoy
20th August 2009, 21:48
Only one old lady owner.
bart
20th August 2009, 21:52
Only one old lady owner.
She wasn't that old :shit:
ital916
24th August 2009, 13:53
K. After reading this thread, I've learnt a little more about the middle of the dr family.
Good short distance bike and good off road/adventure riding bike.
What I would like to know is, if it was to be flogged long distance...can it be done in relative comfort? Max speed to sit at would be 110/120...and the odd spurt up to 130 to pass.
Oh how can one tell the difference between the E models and the S models. I think the E came with the fcr carb and the bigger headers?
I like dual purpose bikes and have looked at a few dr650s but like the smaller nature of the 400. Can it be made into a bit of a beast or is it forever doomed to be the wheezy younger sibling of the 650?
For a bit of corner carving...how well do the tkc80s do?
Willdat?
24th August 2009, 14:27
K. After reading this thread, I've learnt a little more about the middle of the dr family.
Good short distance bike and good off road/adventure riding bike.
What I would like to know is, if it was to be flogged long distance...can it be done in relative comfort? Max speed to sit at would be 110/120...and the odd spurt up to 130 to pass.
Oh how can one tell the difference between the E models and the S models. I think the E came with the fcr carb and the bigger headers?
I like dual purpose bikes and have looked at a few dr650s but like the smaller nature of the 400. Can it be made into a bit of a beast or is it forever doomed to be the wheezy younger sibling of the 650?
For a bit of corner carving...how well do the tkc80s do?
The seat would be your biggest problem for long distance, followed closely by the small range from the standard tank.
Speed wise they will easily do that...
From memory the peak power is quite similar between the DR-Z400E and the DR650SE, but you're missing the Nm.
We don't get the S models in NZ, in the US you'll be able to tell the difference in that the S model is road legal, and the E model is not. The S also has a steel rear subframe for pillion loads.
ital916
24th August 2009, 14:40
The seat would be your biggest problem for long distance, followed closely by the small range from the standard tank.
Speed wise they will easily do that...
From memory the peak power is quite similar between the DR-Z400E and the DR650SE, but you're missing the Nm.
We don't get the S models in NZ, in the US you'll be able to tell the difference in that the S model is road legal, and the E model is not. The S also has a steel rear subframe for pillion loads.
Interesting as there is a drz400 going for a great price at the moment that I was looking at but it is a dual purpose one not the sm and is all road legal. I take it the E models in nz were road legal?
buggsubique
24th August 2009, 15:00
Only some E's are road legal. I think they are predominantly the demo models - although Suki NZ have them listed. You can't road legalize a non-registered E. Although there are also threads on here about how to do it...
ital916
24th August 2009, 15:31
Only some E's are road legal. I think they are predominantly the demo models - although Suki NZ have them listed. You can't road legalize a non-registered E. Although there are also threads on here about how to do it...
are there any known problems with the 2001 models?
Morcs
24th August 2009, 15:44
I used to get 110kms to a tank on my tard.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/picture.php?albumid=1458&pictureid=16113
As for long distance, 100-120kph cruising on straights is a constant battle against the wind. The seat hurts your arse so bad after just an hour that you want to die.
However, if its long distance riding through nice roads, its great :)
Willdat?
24th August 2009, 15:48
I must have nannaed my SM, 140 was the worst I got to reserve. :woohoo:
Oscar
24th August 2009, 16:21
The seat would be your biggest problem for long distance, followed closely by the small range from the standard tank.
Speed wise they will easily do that...
From memory the peak power is quite similar between the DR-Z400E and the DR650SE, but you're missing the Nm.
We don't get the S models in NZ, in the US you'll be able to tell the difference in that the S model is road legal, and the E model is not. The S also has a steel rear subframe for pillion loads.
We did actually get S models in NZ.
The S models are the road legal ones with the metal tank and the diff. carb. - I may be wrong but I have an idea the SM model is based on the S.
I had a road legal E model which are not as common but quite a bit more powerful than the S.
Woody2
24th August 2009, 16:23
The seat would be your biggest problem for long distance, followed closely by the small range from the standard tank.
Speed wise they will easily do that...
From memory the peak power is quite similar between the DR-Z400E and the DR650SE, but you're missing the Nm.
We don't get the S models in NZ, in the US you'll be able to tell the difference in that the S model is road legal, and the E model is not. The S also has a steel rear subframe for pillion loads.
Totally agree with willdat, I have a 02 DRZ400E with an aftermarket seat and I put on a 16L tank rather than the standard 10L. Speedwise you would be fine for sitting on 110 and passing 130kph. The only other thing I would take into account is the height of the bike - it's fairly tall so if you are vertically challenged or have short inseam.....:) From what I have read they are pretty bullet proof as long as they maintained etc.
ital916
24th August 2009, 16:32
I used to get 110kms to a tank on my tard.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/picture.php?albumid=1458&pictureid=16113
As for long distance, 100-120kph cruising on straights is a constant battle against the wind. The seat hurts your arse so bad after just an hour that you want to die.
However, if its long distance riding through nice roads, its great :)
If they brought those back down to 7k then they would be awesome! but at 11k they are waaay to pricey in my opinion.
Heres hoping suzuki summer fests them again.
ital916
24th August 2009, 16:36
We did actually get S models in NZ.
The S models are the road legal ones with the metal tank and the diff. carb. - I may be wrong but I have an idea the SM model is based on the S.
I had a road legal E model which are not as common but quite a bit more powerful than the S.
the E has the fcr carby whilst the S has the cv mikuni?
I think I read about differences in the exhaust system as well i.e. header pipes
Willdat?
24th August 2009, 16:50
SM is definitely based on the S, I've never seen an S for sale in NZ, but there are plenty of road legal Es available.
But they seem to get snapped up pretty quick if well priced.
Our SM's for 8k must have been a cancelled overseas order..my headlight dipped the wrong way initially (still got it if it's of any use to anyone...)
bart
24th August 2009, 18:53
You're in luck. I have one sitting in my shed. Kiehan (how do you spell it) carb. S and SM have Mikuni.
As said previously, Ex NZ Suzuki press bike. They pick out the best ones, and run them in properly.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=237305103
With tall gearing, it'll sit on 120km easy. Just bought a DR650, and it's really not that much more comfortable. 400 is way easier to throw around in the tight stuff. :woohoo:
buggsubique
24th August 2009, 19:09
are there any known problems with the 2001 models?
Nah not as such, but the ACCT on 2002 and earlier models was a bit sus apparently. would be a good move to buy in a manual tensioner from Thumper Talk.
I owned mine from 4000km to 14000km and rode it pretty hard (but careful-hard, not arsehole hard if you know what I mean). Never missed a beat. You can upsize the battery on em with a bit of nouse since they dont have a kicker (the 2001 might?). bit of extra piece of mind in the boonies.
Just change oil every 1000km, keep an eye out for any metal frags (bottom end) and consider a midlife top-end rebuild (if you're real picky) at around 20 000. Guys have ridden them for 3 x that though. Great bikes, I'd have one again.
bart
24th August 2009, 19:17
Forgot to mention. 175km to reserve road riding with standard tank and pipe. It'd do 200km, but would be wanting to see a gas station real soon after that.
MXNUT
24th August 2009, 19:19
are there any known problems with the 2001 models?
Pre 2003 models had problems with the automatic cam chain tensioner failing and doing a lot of engine damage.
It is an easy fix to fit a manual tensioner if you do it before the original fails :Oops:
I used to get 110kms to a tank on my tard.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/picture.php?albumid=1458&pictureid=16113
As for long distance, 100-120kph cruising on straights is a constant battle against the wind. The seat hurts your arse so bad after just an hour that you want to die.
However, if its long distance riding through nice roads, its great :)
Even thrashing it hard the worst i ever got was 140 km to a tank. I have now changed the gearing to what the S model runs ( 15/41 ) and get between 160 - 190 kms per tank and its not quite so buzzy on the road.
Now that i am used to the seat / plank i can handle about 400 kms in a day :crybaby:
We did actually get S models in NZ.
The S models are the road legal ones with the metal tank and the diff. carb. - I may be wrong but I have an idea the SM model is based on the S.
All Quite correct :rockon:
Tony W
24th August 2009, 20:56
I used to get 110kms to a tank on my tard.
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/picture.php?albumid=1458&pictureid=16113
As for long distance, 100-120kph cruising on straights is a constant battle against the wind. The seat hurts your arse so bad after just an hour that you want to die.
However, if its long distance riding through nice roads, its great :)
What's wrong with you guys !!! :angry2:
I got from Te Awamutu to Napier on a tank once ! . . some 280km !
16/41 gearing...mind you, we were trying. :yes:
Morcs
25th August 2009, 07:58
What's wrong with you guys !!! :angry2:
I got from Te Awamutu to Napier on a tank once ! . . some 280km !
16/41 gearing...mind you, we were trying. :yes:
Mine had stage 3 dynojet kit etc.. stock gearing. Drank gas quicker than a tongan eats a dog. I was at a gas station every 1.5 days when using it to commute...
Buddha#81
25th August 2009, 21:20
Hi all, my DRZ is due for a oil change. Being this is the first change I'll be doing. Now its the first dry sump bike ive owned.....is it as easy as draining the frame and sump, filter change......refill the frame run and top up? What I'm worried about is the initial start up, is there any way to purge the oil?
Any tips to be aware of? Thanks
Taz
25th August 2009, 21:38
Any tips to be aware of? Thanks
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=665513
Buddha#81
25th August 2009, 21:53
http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=665513
great link thanks....confirmed what i was thinking!
MXNUT
26th August 2009, 10:42
What I'm worried about is the initial start up, is there any way to purge the oil?
I allways crank the engine over for about 30 seconds with the kill switch off to get the oil filter housing filled with oil and a small amount of oil pressure up.
Most engine manufacturers will tell you that the majority of engine wear occurrs at start up, before the oil has had a chance to fully circulate. :yes:
Willdat?
28th August 2009, 14:49
http://www.bikeforce.co.nz/brochure.htm
Here's a link to a 2002 Suzuki Summerfest brochure, that shows the DR-Z400, DR-Z400E and DR-Z400S all being sold here new, check out those prices! All except the RG150 and FXR150 are cheaper now!
CrazyFrog
28th August 2009, 15:35
http://www.bikeforce.co.nz/brochure.htm
Here's a link to a 2002 Suzuki Summerfest brochure, that shows the DR-Z400, DR-Z400E and DR-Z400S all being sold here new, check out those prices! All except the RG150 and FXR150 are cheaper now!
Yep, Jesus, $12,995 for the DRZ-E. How we love the Kiwi $$ being strong!
buggsubique
28th August 2009, 18:59
Yep, Jesus, $12,995 for the DRZ-E. How we love the Kiwi $$ being strong!
That's bullshit expensive right there!
twisty
28th August 2009, 19:11
I'm trhinking of changing my DRZ 400 sm to a 21 front? Anyone got any thoughts on that?
NordieBoy
28th August 2009, 20:19
I'm trhinking of changing my DRZ 400 sm to a 21 front? Anyone got any thoughts on that?
Works well.
Nerdneh did it on his to good effect.
Taz
29th August 2009, 13:10
Do you need to change the forks as well?
bart
29th August 2009, 20:34
OK, a few more goodies thrown in.
Road wheels
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Motorbikes/Motorbikes/Dual-purpose/auction-237305103.htm
They don't fit the 650.
I bought them off a guy who raced a DRZ400 (not this bike). Tyres are shit so I never really used them.
Squiggles
29th August 2009, 20:56
I'd be messaging Ital916 on here, he's looking for something like this for around that price i believe :D
Tony W
30th August 2009, 12:43
I'm trhinking of changing my DRZ 400 sm to a 21 front? Anyone got any thoughts on that?
NO problem. Just get a DRZ wheel, bolt motard disc on, then you're away.
Change tripmeter to 115%, to give accurate mileage. Unfortunately your km/h will under-read, so watch out for speeding! I have not yet found a way to adjust this.
gpcustom
4th September 2009, 17:57
for the drz400 i want it gone its just been sitting there someone must need one chec it out will let it go for $130http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?p=1997860
Woody2
6th September 2009, 08:28
for the drz400 i want it gone its just been sitting there someone must need one chec it out will let it go for $130http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?p=1997860
I have sent you a pm re: the bash plate
Alpha Solo
6th September 2009, 09:43
Swapped the motard wheels and discs and fitted the wheels from my E - no issues what so ever. Rode all day yesterday - DRZ's are great!!!
Squiggles
16th September 2009, 17:57
This is a good deal: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=240494254
Just checked it out for the mrs, unfortunately doesnt suit her needs but if i was looking for a drz i'd be bidding.
Buddha#81
1st October 2009, 09:11
this may have been covered? when I brought the DRZ it was hard to start (been sitting for 5-6 months). we stripped and cleaned the carb new plug and reset the valve clearance (tight inlet).
I've been thrashing it as a motard for 4 meetings (2.5 hours of hard work) and a couple of trail rides, it looks like the valve clearance has done its thing again, it wont start off the starter but will push or roller start with effort.
Is the DRZ prone for stretching valves when pushed hard and if its time to replace them (if nothing else for piece of mind) what brand from where and the biggie how much?
Any feedback is appreciated.
Oscar
1st October 2009, 09:27
this may have been covered? when I brought the DRZ it was hard to start (been sitting for 5-6 months). we stripped and cleaned the carb new plug and reset the valve clearance (tight inlet).
I've been thrashing it as a motard for 4 meetings (2.5 hours of hard work) and a couple of trail rides, it looks like the valve clearance has done its thing again, it wont start off the starter but will push or roller start with effort.
Is the DRZ prone for stretching valves when pushed hard and if its time to replace them (if nothing else for piece of mind) what brand from where and the biggie how much?
Any feedback is appreciated.
I dunno about the valve or nuthin', but they are bitches to start when they've been sitting around...
bart
1st October 2009, 19:05
I've often had to drain the carb after its been sitting for over a week. Fresh gas and she fires up first pop.
Big fist full of throttle, and then fire it up full choke sometimes works.
drz hoffy
6th October 2009, 17:06
Hi everyone
2006 DRZ400e
I did it broke the alternator side cover, stopped to take a photo of the snow we were riding on and slipped and the bike fell on the gear lever leaving a big hole in the cover OUCH, so my question is does anyone know where to get the case cover protectors i read so much about in New Zealand or Australia, bit late now i know LOL
Cheers
Hoffy
NordieBoy
6th October 2009, 17:52
Hi everyone
2006 DRZ400e
I did it broke the alternator side cover, stopped to take a photo of the snow we were riding on and slipped and the bike fell on the gear lever leaving a big hole in the cover OUCH, so my question is does anyone know where to get the case cover protectors i read so much about in New Zealand or Australia, bit late now i know LOL
Cheers
Hoffy
These are good ones.
http://www.motorcycleproducts.org/Engine_Guards/DRZguards/drz400.htm
drz hoffy
6th October 2009, 18:32
Cheers for that so no one in nz then ??? they seem to be pretty well priced too:woohoo:
CrazyFrog
8th October 2009, 06:59
These guys have good case savers too.
http://shop.thumpertalk.com/product_p/bp_cfc_case.htm
I bought mine recently, got 3 sets sent over and sold them to other DRZ riders to make shipping cost more reasonable. The US dollar is good for us buyers at the moment so just do it.
They look great and just stick em on with high temp RTV silicon.
buggsubique
10th October 2009, 18:50
Never got to doing mine before I sold - didn't need anyway, but there seems to be rebuild kits on sale based out of Napier. I'm a mechanical noob so I'd be sending my engine away for a complete top end at around the 20-25k mark, but the other option depending on your budget and hours on the bike etc might just be to order in the one piece valves to replace stock two piece units. springs at same time. dunno much about seats or anything. rings as well while you're at it I spose and so do the piston as welldepending on hours / miles on the motor. since youve gone that far keep inspecting oil for fragments that might suggest a bottom end before that goes...which may happen with the sort of high rev stuff it sounds like you're doing. WHat model drz? E or SM? something about the SM being lower compression...dunno bout that but if it's just a gasket difference then that would be worth it too.
Oscar
11th October 2009, 18:25
I've still got a brand new DRZ Twin Air Filter and a Haynes Manual that I don't need.
Make me an offer...
Buddha#81
17th October 2009, 12:29
this may have been covered? when I brought the DRZ it was hard to start (been sitting for 5-6 months). we stripped and cleaned the carb new plug and reset the valve clearance (tight inlet).
I've been thrashing it as a motard for 4 meetings (2.5 hours of hard work) and a couple of trail rides, it looks like the valve clearance has done its thing again, it wont start off the starter but will push or roller start with effort.
Is the DRZ prone for stretching valves when pushed hard and if its time to replace them (if nothing else for piece of mind) what brand from where and the biggie how much?
Any feedback is appreciated.
after reserching the above I was torn between new valves (bike shop) and oter good sites basicly said the these thing just dont do valves, I've shimed the inlets (exhaust were in spec) and reassembeled and hit the starter.....shes a goodin.
next time, if there is one for piece of mind it will get two valves which will be $200 ish in parts but for now it was a $6 fix!
carver
21st October 2009, 20:08
Pre 2003 models had problems with the automatic cam chain tensioner failing and doing a lot of engine damage.
It is an easy fix to fit a manual tensioner if you do it before the original fails :Oops:
Even thrashing it hard the worst i ever got was 140 km to a tank. I have now changed the gearing to what the S model runs ( 15/41 ) and get between 160 - 190 kms per tank and its not quite so buzzy on the road.
Now that i am used to the seat / plank i can handle about 400 kms in a day :crybaby:
All Quite correct :rockon:
pussies, i got 80 km to reserve!
Woody2
2nd November 2009, 20:22
These guys have good case savers too.
http://shop.thumpertalk.com/product_p/bp_cfc_case.htm
I bought mine recently, got 3 sets sent over and sold them to other DRZ riders to make shipping cost more reasonable. The US dollar is good for us buyers at the moment so just do it.
They look great and just stick em on with high temp RTV silicon.
Nice info CF, have just ordered three from here as well, one for my bike where a previous owner has done a bodge repair and I will sell the other two to recover shipping costs as well,
Cheers DW.
Oscar
2nd November 2009, 21:03
pussies, i got 80 km to reserve!
Probably 'cause yer main jet fell out and is lodged in the float bowl...
bart
15th November 2009, 17:38
OK, the DRZ is cluttering up my shed (well it's actualy in my workshop, so I can't even get to the work bench). I want to get rid of it before I start butchering parts off it for the DR650. I wonder if the whole front end will bolt up to the 650. Hmmmmm
Anyway, it's all yours for $5700. What a bargain.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=244967891
And NO, I won't trade.
NordieBoy
16th November 2009, 06:45
I want to get rid of it before I start butchering parts off it for the DR650. I wonder if the whole front end will bolt up to the 650. Hmmmmm
Rear shock too...
:devil2:
bart
16th November 2009, 16:03
Rear shock too...
:devil2:
I haven't noticed too many problems with the rear. The front could do with some sorting though. This will be a little project for next year.
NordieBoy
16th November 2009, 18:05
I haven't noticed too many problems with the rear. The front could do with some sorting though. This will be a little project for next year.
But once you've done the front......
bart
16th November 2009, 22:43
But once you've done the front......
True....
I think with the suspension sorted, the DR won't be a bad machine.
It's certainly heavier than the DRZ, but once you get up over the bars and give it shit, it's very rewarding in the gravel. The back end just snakes around everywhere (in a controlled kind of way):shifty:.
The DR650 is just as quick, but perhaps not quite so forgiving when you have one of those 'HOLY SHIT' moments.
The other noticable thing about the 650 is that everything is big and clunky. Things are certainly more refined on the 400. Hard to explain, but it's just the overall feel.
The 650 seems better behaved around town, starts easier, and runs better when cold, but not quite as nimble when flicking it around the streets.
If the Mrs wasn't at me for having too many toys, I'd keep both.
Tony W
8th February 2012, 22:15
Hi Adventurers,
I have had my DR-Z400SMK5 since new.
I have covered 55,000 trouble free km now.
I adjusted 1 'tappet' 0.1mm at 40,000km and changed the sparkplug while I was in the general area.
Nothing has gone wrong with the bike.
It handles perfectly, goes like a rocket, and averages 26km/L and is fun to ride. (30km/L Hiway)
It has a copious carrying capacity.
It has always got me home.
Is this normal ?
Is this bike too boring ?
Do we actually need a DR-Z 400 thread ?
Should I be thinking of buying a DR650 to add a little drama to my monoTony ?
The 650 seems to be afflicted with endless problems of many varieties.
Everyone seems to love them.
I feel I am missing out:mellow:
Does anybody wanna do swapsies, so I can have something to do at nights ? ( other than changing its colour scheme every couple of years )
Please help.
NordieBoy
8th February 2012, 23:06
It handles perfectly, goes like a rocket, and averages 26km/L and is fun to ride. (30km/L Hiway).
Don't let Padmei see those numbers, he'll just get depressed again.
timmehpwr
9th February 2012, 11:29
I think its all gearing.. with 14t front and 47t rear my 2000 DRZ400E at its worst has seen 10km/l when sitting at 110kph for a short highway sprint and then trail riding and then 110kph short highway sprint home again..
then with 15t front and 47t rear I can get around 20km/l adventure riding/sitting at 110kph for long trips
15t front is pretty good compromise but you need to work the clutch a whole lot more hill climbing, unless you get a run up :)
they are great bikes, my only gripe is with the hard seat
SVboy
9th February 2012, 11:54
Quite simply-awesome bikes! I hace done nothing to mine except regular maintainence. Going to change the fork oil and lube the steering stem bearings soon-but again-just because I care! What will we do when SMs are no longer available!!
Tony W
9th February 2012, 13:27
Quite simply-awesome bikes! I hace done nothing to mine except regular maintainence. Going to change the fork oil and lube the steering stem bearings soon-but again-just because I care! What will we do when SMs are no longer available!!
I guess we'll just keep ours forever :laugh:
Tony W
9th February 2012, 13:32
I think its all gearing.. with 14t front and 47t rear my 2000 DRZ400E at its worst has seen 10km/l when sitting at 110kph for a short highway sprint and then trail riding and then 110kph short highway sprint home again..
then with 15t front and 47t rear I can get around 20km/l adventure riding/sitting at 110kph for long trips
15t front is pretty good compromise but you need to work the clutch a whole lot more hill climbing, unless you get a run up :)
they are great bikes, my only gripe is with the hard seat
Yeah I run a 15T & 43T on 18'' rear. ...(no good for trail of course...)
Suggest you do the same to avoid the Buzz.:niceone:
THE SEAT: Can't help you there...
I lerv mine, no complaints. Definitely nicer than a KTM 950 ADV I once rode !
MXNUT
14th April 2012, 14:39
The DRZ is finally for sale.:yes:
Add Here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/148733-2007-DRZ400-E-Adventure?p=1130302273#post1130302273)
Would like to keep it as its been the best bike ive ever owned, but i cant ride them all:bye::bye:
dino3310
14th April 2012, 21:27
@ MXNUT
jeez mate if i new you wanted a bigger sized thumper i would have accepted a swap for the XR:msn-wink:
rigley
19th April 2012, 16:02
Hi Guys,
I hope I'm not gate crashing here, I'm after a few parts for my 2002 DRZ400E:
At 6'1" I find the riding position standing up to be difficult to say the least, I have fitted some 30mm risers, which have helped, though I still feel I could do with more height and less hanging over the bars, any ideas on some suitable bars etc that might do the trick?
The bike is the off road version, with no high beam, anyone converted one before to make it road legal and has anyone got the parts they might want to sell, switch etc.
Cheers
NordieBoy
19th April 2012, 16:47
Should be good with one of the "Classic" bends. Padmei's bars would go well with 30mm rise.
Will wait 'till he chimes in...
MXNUT
19th April 2012, 17:33
Hi Guys,
The bike is the off road version, with no high beam, anyone converted one before to make it road legal and has anyone got the parts they might want to sell, switch etc.
Cheers
Because it was an off road only model you wont be able to get the correct certification ( lights / brake coding etc... ) from Suzuki to be able to obtain an MR2A.
Once you had put all the road legal bits on it you would need to go to a low volume certifier and get it certified. Then you would have to take it to a VIN agent and get an MR2A issued then register it as a 1st time registered bike.
All extremely difficult to do and very costly. Save yourself the headache and buy one already registered.
rigley
19th April 2012, 17:40
Forgot to mention, I bought it as a road registered bike, don't know what has happened along the way and how it got it's WOF's, but it did along with registration, I just want to make legal for the road when I'm on it! :yes:
Padmei
19th April 2012, 18:59
Should be good with one of the "Classic" bends. Padmei's bars would go well with 30mm rise.
Will wait 'till he chimes in...
Hi all
My name's padmei & I've got a big bar.
Check out this page. I got the highest bar I could find for the DRZ which is the enduro high @ 130mm. There may be some ATV bars higher but I like cross abrs to mount my GPS holder.
http://renthal.com/File/apps1.asp?tabtype=5&productid=0&appid=MOTOCROSS/ENDURO&zone=&biketype=&manufacturer=&model=&bikedate=
They've taken some pretty good hits & stay straight.
Padmei
19th April 2012, 19:03
BTW does anyone know a good glue to stick stuff to the Safari tanks? I want to stick a piece of carpet or something for grip when climbing over the Hillary Step.
Don't go & tell me about ready made pads & stuff - I don't roll like that.
NordieBoy
19th April 2012, 19:15
BTW does anyone know a good glue to stick stuff to the Safari tanks? I want to stick a piece of carpet or something for grip when climbing over the Hillary Step.
Don't go & tell me about ready made pads & stuff - I don't roll like that.
Hillary Step? Your driveway isn't that bad...
Nothing is going to last really, the fumes go through and dissolve the glue.
NordieBoy
19th April 2012, 19:16
Forgot to mention, I bought it as a road registered bike, don't know what has happened along the way and how it got it's WOF's, but it did along with registration, I just want to make legal for the road when I'm on it! :yes:
It doesn't need a high beam for a wof.
How did it get registered? What was the previous owners job? :D
rigley
19th April 2012, 19:35
You know the history Fran, it did get picked up at last wof though, any ideas on the type of handle bars might be good for me? Who knows could make the ride this weekend !!!
rigley
19th April 2012, 19:47
Sorry Padmei, missed your reply, still getting used to this phone. i Will check them out, it's good to have some proven un biased opinion. Getting a bit sick of local suppliers just trying to off load whatever stock they have..
JATZ
19th April 2012, 20:01
It doesn't need a high beam for a wof.
How did it get registered? What was the previous owners job? :D
Sounds like he was pretty dodgy... I'd report him to the police if I were you :D
Although he's probly left the country by now :facepalm:
NordieBoy
19th April 2012, 20:16
You know the history Fran, it did get picked up at last wof though, any ideas on the type of handle bars might be good for me? Who knows could make the ride this weekend !!!
According to the rules, you don't need a high beam.
Where do you get it wof'd?
4.1 Lighting
A motorcycle:
a) must be fitted with one or two dipped-beam
headlamps, and
b) may be fitted with one or two main-beam
headlamps.
Padmei
19th April 2012, 20:48
Sorry Padmei, missed your reply, still getting used to this phone. i Will check them out, it's good to have some proven un biased opinion. Getting a bit sick of local suppliers just trying to off load whatever stock they have..
No wurries (brummie acceeeent).
I got Chea from Filco mcs to get them in & they weren't too expensive i don't think. Actually i think the renthal guy had to look for them somewhere if I remember correctly as they're "too high for a motorcycle - why do you want bars that high?" I think they're used to limber young characters with rubberlike backs :)
rigley
19th April 2012, 21:05
I think you guys are trying to get me locked up, you never know who might be watching this blog :) Thanks for the heads up on the bar Padmei, i wondered when you would cotton on to my brummie accent. Hey fran, i find it unbelievable that you don't need a high beam for a wof!
NordieBoy
19th April 2012, 21:33
I think they're used to limber young characters with rubberlike backs :)
And not old rubber characters with lumber like backs.
MXNUT
22nd April 2012, 19:45
The DRZ is finally for sale.:yes:
Add Here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php/148733-2007-DRZ400-E-Adventure?p=1130302273#post1130302273)
Would like to keep it as its been the best bike ive ever owned, but i cant ride them all:bye::bye:
Wont be able to post on this thread anymore now as the DRZ has gone to a new home in Levin today.:weep::bye::bye::bye:
Totaly a Euro Trash only owner now :devil2:
NordieBoy
22nd April 2012, 20:50
Wont be able to post on this thread anymore now as the DRZ has gone to a new home in Levin today.:weep::bye::bye::bye:
Totaly a Euro Trash only owner now :devil2:
Change your profile details then.
DRZ & confused Suz fan...
Traitor.
I reallllllly want a Freeride 350.
joel14
9th January 2013, 16:29
ok can someone shed some light on this.
iv just braught a 2010 drz400e with only head light and rear light on it as far as road gear .But im wanting to put this on the road
can anyone tell how im meant to go about this? or if its even possible at all..its never been on the road before but im guessing theres a way of getting around this
cheers joel
rigley
9th January 2013, 16:43
ok can someone shed some light on this.
iv just braught a 2010 drz400e with only head light and rear light on it as far as road gear .But im wanting to put this on the road
can anyone tell how im meant to go about this? or if its even possible at all..its never been on the road before but im guessing theres a way of getting around this
cheers joel
Hi Joel,
My bike is a DRZ400e, 2001, that has been put on the road, I bought it like that, with an after market road kit on, so it can be done, I just don't know how!
Hope this helps a little......:whistle:
joel14
9th January 2013, 16:45
Hi Joel,
My bike is a DRZ400e, 2001, that has been put on the road, I bought it like that, with an after market road kit on, so it can be done, I just don't know how!
Hope this helps a little......:whistle:
cheers mate.when i ring up and try put my frame number through vinz.they dont reconize it as a bike that should be on the road..so iv heard rumors that theres still a way around this also..
Waipukbiker
9th January 2013, 17:25
Gday Joel, Sounds like your local VTNZ arnt being very helpfull, I gather your bike has not got a VIN Number, If it has then all it needs is to be upgraded to meet WOF requirements and then it can be Registed for the road.
In the last 2 years Ive managed to get a 1979 XR185 and a 1981 KL250 on the road and neither had any record in the "System". The requirements were, proof of sale in NZ from new, police check that they wearnt stolen, Brake shoes and drums measured by a bike dealer to make sure they wearnt over manufactureres wear limits, Meet all current WOF requirements and VTNZ were then happy to give them a VIN number, WOF and then I was able to register them. ( Some old bikes are exemt indicators etc and VTNZ have a list of these) .
Ide be inclined to visit a VTNZ stn in person and sort it out with someone.
Ive just done quick google, there are streel legal kits available for your bike.
Good luck with it.
DR Girl
9th January 2013, 21:41
Ross, I had a 1979 XR185. Ordered it in brand new from Dave Whittaker Honda. Got the first one in the Bay according to him :woohoo:
Waipukbiker
10th January 2013, 16:29
lol, might have been the same one.
DR Girl
11th January 2013, 22:45
Would loved to have taken one for a ride again :( I sold my one to Peter Hamelink locally.
Ross when did you get your XR185 & when did you sell it ?
DR Girl
11th January 2013, 23:29
Back in 1980 at the Tukituki River a few months after saying a sad goodbye to my XL 175.
Waipukbiker
12th January 2013, 08:32
Bit of a larrakin in your younger days Robin?? I rescued the XR185 off my cousins farm about 6 years ago where it had been lying on its side in a paddock for 3 years and a blackberry bush had just about grown right over it. It was pretty much complete, just in a mess, everything was worn out on it and a few bent bits after a tumble down a hill but the motor could still be turned over so I completely rebuilt it, bored it out to a 200, Used an XL185 at a wrecker to provide all the donor bits so it ended up as an XL200 with an XR motor. Got in Vinned, WOF and REG and with the 6 speed trans it was a little weapon around town. Sold it about 2 years ago to a friend in Welly and hes only a small bloke and he said its brilliant in traffic.
bart
12th January 2013, 16:35
ok can someone shed some light on this.
iv just braught a 2010 drz400e with only head light and rear light on it as far as road gear .But im wanting to put this on the road
can anyone tell how im meant to go about this? or if its even possible at all..its never been on the road before but im guessing theres a way of getting around this
cheers joel
2 models of the DRZ400'E' were brought in (not to be confused with the 'S' and 'SM' models). A road legal version and off road version. The road legal version has larger headlight (with dip, same as DR650), indicators and switch gear, tail piece for number plate/light/reflector, and a small tool bag on the back mudguard. The wiring loom is likely to be very different also, so yours may not be plug and play for the extra bits.
While it wouldn't be impossible to road leagalise an offroad version, it'd be a lot easier and cheaper to sell yours and buy another that is already registered. They usualy sell for about 1k more then the offroad versions. This is cheap when a new headlight alone costs around $400.
You could possibly bodge something up with parts from a wrecked bike, but getting it all through the system will cost plenty.
edit: forgot to mention speedo and all the extra bits required for that.
edit again: and tyres. No doubt the off road version won't have road legal tyres.
DR Girl
14th January 2013, 17:02
Bit of a larrakin in your younger days Robin?? I rescued the XR185 off my cousins farm about 6 years ago where it had been lying on its side in a paddock for 3 years and a blackberry bush had just about grown right over it. It was pretty much complete, just in a mess, everything was worn out on it and a few bent bits after a tumble down a hill but the motor could still be turned over so I completely rebuilt it, bored it out to a 200, Used an XL185 at a wrecker to provide all the donor bits so it ended up as an XL200 with an XR motor. Got in Vinned, WOF and REG and with the 6 speed trans it was a little weapon around town. Sold it about 2 years ago to a friend in Welly and hes only a small bloke and he said its brilliant in traffic.
Well done with that restoration :first:. . . . sure hope it wasn't my old bike abandoned in a paddock :gob:
XRJohnny
14th January 2013, 18:02
Well done with that restoration :first:. . . . sure hope it wasn't my old bike abandoned in a paddock :gob:
Tony W says this is a DZR400 thread, and not for general tittle-tattle thank you:bleh:
NordieBoy
14th January 2013, 18:17
Tony W says this is a DZR400 thread, and not for general tittle-tattle thank you:bleh:
You generalising about her tittle-tattles?
:confused:
Oscar
16th January 2013, 20:12
Tony W says this is a DZR400 thread, and not for general tittle-tattle thank you:bleh:
Welcome to Kiddiebiker:no:
irsh
5th March 2013, 12:34
Anyone got any DRZ pillion foot pegs they don't want or wish to sell ?
Night Falcon
5th March 2013, 18:28
Have a few questions for those in the know:
1. what are the service intervals on the DRZ400 E (road version)?
2. Do they have enough juice and stock wiring to handle a GPS, heated grips and maybe an aux 12v adaptor?
3. What is the crusing speed
4. What is the klm/per litre range
Box of riddles
5th March 2013, 19:13
Hey fellas, I'm having an issue with my '06 SM and was wondering if anyone had some bright ideas.
Last week I had just finished an overtake when the engine cut out, and since then it's refusing to start.
I've changed the spark plug, checked it's getting fuel through the carby via the drain line and checked my air filter. When I'm turning it over it sounds like the spark is just a little too late and it'll occasionally backfire.
Any and all ideas are appreciated.
nzspokes
5th March 2013, 19:23
Hey fellas, I'm having an issue with my '06 SM and was wondering if anyone had some bright ideas.
Last week I had just finished an overtake when the engine cut out, and since then it's refusing to start.
I've changed the spark plug, checked it's getting fuel through the carby via the drain line and checked my air filter. When I'm turning it over it sounds like the spark is just a little too late and it'll occasionally backfire.
Any and all ideas are appreciated.
Pulse generator may be gone.
LankyBastard
5th March 2013, 19:35
Have a few questions for those in the know:
1. what are the service intervals on the DRZ400 E (road version)?
2. Do they have enough juice and stock wiring to handle a GPS, heated grips and maybe an aux 12v adaptor?
3. What is the crusing speed
4. What is the klm/per litre range
My manual states 30 hrs between services.
Not sure about the electrics (just had mine a week)
On 14/47 gearing (E model) 100km'h is rather buzzy, i'm dropping to a 43 rear to ease the rpms a little.
With above gearing and enthusiastic off/on road riding getting around 20km/l.
Is that your 690 on Trademe? If so it looks sweeeeet :yes:
Padmei
5th March 2013, 19:39
Since others are asking questions - I'm looking at this exhaust to get mine back to quietness. I don't know anything about baffles but they have been removed on this one for sale. My pipe has a homemade spark arrestor thing doen a bit rougher then this one but is uncomfortably loud. Would I be gaining anything buying this or can I put the baffle back in?
Is there anyone that makes seats for this bike for people with two butt cheeks?
NF my cruising speed is 90-105 - anymore with a small sprocket (15 iirc) is annoying. Not good for road. i get FA km/l - prob the saem as with Schmidtty.
Padmei
5th March 2013, 19:42
With above gearing and enthusiastic off/on road riding getting around 20km/l.
:
faaark - wanna swap???? I can only dreeeam about that kind of mileage
LankyBastard
5th March 2013, 20:07
faaark - wanna swap???? I can only dreeeam about that kind of mileage
Crap CV carb + factory pipe = bugger all power = excellent fuel economy!
Padmei
5th March 2013, 20:34
Crap CV carb + factory pipe = bugger all power = excellent fuel economy!
It would be interesting to compare bikes. Mine has no airbox cover, gutted exhaust (both doen by the previous owner) & way more power than I expected which is fun - I rejetted it back to standard for better mileage but is still too rich according to Mr Nordie. Topo tweaked his one before he swapped his for a chook chaser
ADVGD
5th March 2013, 23:19
Have a few questions for those in the know:
1. what are the service intervals on the DRZ400 E (road version)?
2. Do they have enough juice and stock wiring to handle a GPS, heated grips and maybe an aux 12v adaptor?
3. What is the crusing speed
4. What is the klm/per litre range
1) service intervals vary for the S/SM and E model; S/SM is in KM and E is in hours even though they are essentially the same engine bar a few minor differences. The most significant service interval difference is the S/SM is 6000km for oil, the E is 30 hours.
2) Depends what you want to run off the 12v adapter, but GPS and heated grips are fine. Personally, I would not recommend using the adapter to run a plasma screen, DVD player and lava lamp at the same time. Higher output stators are available for the DRZ400
3) 100 kmph fairly comfortably on 14/44, that said I use an airhawk which does a great job of absorbing the vibes of a small single at high revs
4) laden with gear, around 17.5km per litre. Can be improved if you are riding conservatively, but where is the fun in that ;)
Since others are asking questions - I'm looking at this exhaust to get mine back to quietness.
A debaffled standard exhaust can make a horrid droning noise, enough to send the most sane man loopy after long riding sessions. I would prefer a nice quite standard factory pipe any day of the week. I run an FMF Q-4, it "reputably" increases horsepower and is a tolerable db, it also has a Quite Insert available to reduce db further
Night Falcon
6th March 2013, 16:44
Is that your 690 on Trademe? If so it looks sweeeeet :yes:
yup, won't be disapointed at all if it don't sell though, in fact not that sure I really want to sell it ! Had lots of interest and emails...will see how it goes :cool:
1) service intervals vary for the S/SM and E model; S/SM is in KM and E is in hours even though they are essentially the same engine bar a few minor differences. The most significant service interval difference is the S/SM is 6000km for oil, the E is 30 hours.
2) Depends what you want to run off the 12v adapter, but GPS and heated grips are fine. Personally, I would not recommend using the adapter to run a plasma screen, DVD player and lava lamp at the same time. Higher output stators are available for the DRZ400
3) 100 kmph fairly comfortably on 14/44, that said I use an airhawk which does a great job of absorbing the vibes of a small single at high revs
4) laden with gear, around 17.5km per litre. Can be improved if you are riding conservatively, but where is the fun in that ;)
Thanks bro, is the S model the road version and the E the off road? What sort of oil do they run?
bart
8th March 2013, 19:33
Thanks bro, is the S model the road version and the E the off road? What sort of oil do they run?
SM = Supermotard (pretty common, sortcore, tin tank, road legal)
S = Supermotard with 21 inch front (rare in NZ, tin tank, gutless, crap suspension)
E = Enduro (plastic tank and all the good bits)
But the sub type is:
E offroad = (all the fruit)
E onroad = (all the fruit plus road legal, bigger headlight with dip, indicators, fancy speedo thing, tool bag, passenger pegs, roadyish tyres)
I wouldn't touch the SM or S. E onroad is the only way to go.
As for oil....cooking will do.
rigley
7th May 2013, 22:04
Hi All,
Has anybody successfully run heated grips on a 400 E model?
Looking for a good cheap set that works well :niceone:
As for fuel economy, I get around 6.2ltrs/100Km, that's road, off road, without having too much fun, that can rise dramatically if you ride hard :shifty:
Hi All,
Has anybody successfully run heated grips on a 400 E model?
DRZ400 can run heated grips without issue. Polly Heaters (http://www.pollyheaters.com/) (@36 watts) are my preference
If you are running 1 1/8 bars here is a recent article on installing Polly Heaters: 1 1/8 bar heaters (http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/313/fat-bar-ceramic-heaters.php)
Here are a few options from an NZ supplier: Heated Grips (http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/616-heated_grips.aspx)
rigley
7th May 2013, 22:49
DRZ400 can run heated grips without issue. Polly Heaters (http://www.pollyheaters.com/) (@36 watts) are my preference
If you are running 1 1/8 bars here is a recent article on installing Polly Heaters: 1 1/8 bar heaters (http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/313/fat-bar-ceramic-heaters.php)
Here are a few options from an NZ supplier: Heated Grips (http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/616-heated_grips.aspx)
Thanks, I have seen these on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360624161252?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 wondered has anybody tried them?
Thanks, I have seen these on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360624161252?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 wondered has anybody tried them?
There are mixed reviews with this style of heater, Transalper runs them on his WR and seems to give them the nod. I personally find installing them a pain in the arse
Keep in mind that some brands have a reputation to die prematurely, I certainly wouldn't be inclined to try the ones you mentioned at $5.95. There is cheap, and then there is utter cheap crap.
These ones (http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1558-motorader_heated_grips/5090-motorader_grip_warmers_for_use.aspx)are $32 but even then the staff at Cycletreads mentioned the return rate is quite high and often suggest the Oxfords. Oxford has a great reputation for reliability
nzspokes
8th May 2013, 06:23
. Oxford has a great reputation for reliability
Did the Oxford rep tell you that? :laugh::no:
NordieBoy
8th May 2013, 08:12
I had an Oxford bike thermometer.
It responded to changes in temperature in geological terms and being waterproof, died the first time it rained...
rigley
8th May 2013, 08:31
There are mixed reviews with this style of heater, Transalper runs them on his WR and seems to give them the nod. I personally find installing them a pain in the arse
Keep in mind that some brands have a reputation to die prematurely, I certainly wouldn't be inclined to try the ones you mentioned at $5.95. There is cheap, and then there is utter cheap crap.
These ones (http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1558-motorader_heated_grips/5090-motorader_grip_warmers_for_use.aspx)are $32 but even then the staff at Cycletreads mentioned the return rate is quite high and often suggest the Oxfords. Oxford has a great reputation for reliability
Here where you are coming from, point taken, if it looks to good to be true, it probably is. :sherlock:
rigley
8th May 2013, 08:42
I had an Oxford bike thermometer.
It responded to changes in temperature in geological terms and being waterproof, died the first time it rained...
So which way would you go then Fran? I have heard some premature failure problems with Oxford grips, already on my second Stator, don't want to overload the already fragile electrics.
Did the Oxford rep tell you that? :laugh::no:
I get $8.50 every time I endorse their product :laugh:
Maybe the term "better reliability" from their higher priced range would be more suitable than "great reliability"? I understand there are some fail reports out there and personally I don't use Oxfords as the outside diameter is too large for my liking, but from the half dozen riders I know using them, the feedback is mostly good.
I did purchase and use the Oxford Hot Hands as a first substitute for the Polly Heaters when I first installed the 1 1/8 bars but they came off straight away, they are truly an awful, awful awful product.
Here where you are coming from, point taken, if it looks to good to be true, it probably is. :sherlock:
I avoid mixing cheap stuff with adventure bikes, it normally ends in tears. To me adventure riding is getting away and having a blast, using cheap shit that fails or breaks half way through a ride or a long way from home is a pain in the arse and defeats the purpose. Spending a little extra to get the good stuff is worth it.
So which way would you go then Fran? I have heard some premature failure problems with Oxford grips, already on my second Stator, don't want to overload the already fragile electrics.
Heated grips?
New fangled, new age...hurrumph......kids today...maybe you could harden up a bit...
Transalper
8th May 2013, 12:25
There are mixed reviews with this style of heater, Transalper runs them on his WR and seems to give them the nod. I personally find installing them a pain in the arse....
I use the Symtec brand of grip heater and they cost more like $75.
Have had no trouble installing them, have them on the WR and transalp now.
They are possibly not as hot as some other arrangements but good enough for me.
J's got newish Oxfords on her DR650 and we reckon they are not as good as the older model with analogue button/dial switch.
rigley
8th May 2013, 14:06
Heated grips?
New fangled, new age...hurrumph......kids today...maybe you could harden up a bit...
Did I not tell you I am a big Jessie when it comes to the cold :baby:
NordieBoy
8th May 2013, 18:59
I've had 2 sets of Oxford heated grips and have thrown both away.
I can't stand the size, or compound of the grips.
I didn't buy them, they came on both DR's.
Night Falcon
9th May 2013, 13:06
I've never had abike with heated grips and don't see the point of them. Once all feeling is gone in ya fingers who cares how cold they get after that
Frostbite is nature's way of telling you to stay in bed...
clint640
9th May 2013, 13:43
These ones (http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/1558-motorader_heated_grips/5090-motorader_grip_warmers_for_use.aspx)are $32 but even then the staff at Cycletreads mentioned the return rate is quite high and often suggest the Oxfords.
Those look identical to the Symtech/Dual Star ones at a good price. I've fitted 3 sets of those to different bikes & the only problem in a combined 100k+ km of on & offroad use has been the rocker switch supplied with the first set. A toggle switch like in the kit pictured is the way to go.
Cheers
Clint
Box'a'bits
9th May 2013, 17:24
I've had the Oxford Sports grips on the KTM 640a & R100GS. Both sets have been good. they run through a relay, which turns them off when the ignition is off.
The only issue has been physical damage from throwing Gus upside down. This chewed up the clutch grip on rock. I cut off the rubber portion of the grip & replaced it with another grip. There is a plastic sleeve underneath the grip with the heated element (wire) running in a similar patten to the Symtech one, but 'spot-melted' into the plastic sleeve. If the grip can move, then the wire will end up breaking.
The range of adjustment (heat) is nice. You need to be careful when fitting that the wiring won't interfere with throttle / brake / clutch action.
I was like Nightfalcon originally, but wouldn't ride without heated grips now.
Heated grips?
New fangled, new age...hurrumph......kids today...maybe you could harden up a bit...
I've never had abike with heated grips and don't see the point of them. Once all feeling is gone in ya fingers who cares how cold they get after that
I'm a big fan of being comfortable when riding, it maintains the fun factor. I ride all year round and find that through winter, grip warmers are essential especially when going over the Main Divide passes in temperatures around or below 0. Cold hands suck, frostbite sucks even more. The pic below is one of many trips I have done in the cold/snow, this one was over 10 hours riding through snow all the way from Lake Kaniere to my doorstep in Chch. I was kitted in the right gear and my grip heaters kept my hands toasty warm all the way, the ride was outstanding, Arthurs Pass is a stunning place when laced in snow.
http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/121/images/west-coast-ride-23.jpg
Stopping just out of Otira to fit the snow chains to get up and over through to Arthurs Pass
http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/121/images/west-coast-ride-25.jpg
I was like Nightfalcon originally, but wouldn't ride without heated grips now.
+1
rigley
9th May 2013, 17:58
Those look identical to the Symtech/Dual Star ones at a good price. I've fitted 3 sets of those to different bikes & the only problem in a combined 100k+ km of on & offroad use has been the rocker switch supplied with the first set. A toggle switch like in the kit pictured is the way to go.
Cheers
Clint
Had a reply from Cycletreads this morning, they have sold out and the supplier is not making any more :facepalm:
rigley
9th May 2013, 18:04
I'm a big fan of being comfortable when riding, it maintains the fun factor. I ride all year round and find that through winter, grip warmers are essential especially when going over the Main Divide passes in temperatures around or below 0. Cold hands suck, frostbite sucks even more. The pic below is one of many trips I have done in the cold/snow, this one was over 10 hours riding through snow all the way from Lake Kaniere to my doorstep in Chch. I was kitted in the right gear and my grip heaters kept my hands toasty warm all the way, the ride was outstanding, Arthurs Pass is a stunning place when laced in snow.
Stopping just out of Otira to fit the snow chains to get up and over through to Arthurs Pass
+1
The only way to go, just planning another Dusty Butt trip over 5 days over June, heated grips and proper winter gear is high on the list, great pics m8 :niceone:
Night Falcon
9th May 2013, 18:11
I'm a big fan of being comfortable when riding, it maintains the fun factor. I ride all year round and find that through winter, grip warmers are essential especially when going over the Main Divide passes in temperatures around or below 0. Cold hands suck, frostbite sucks even more. The pic below is one of many trips I have done in the cold/snow, this one was over 10 hours riding through snow all the way from Lake Kaniere to my doorstep in Chch. I was kitted in the right gear and my grip heaters kept my hands toasty warm all the way, the ride was outstanding, Arthurs Pass is a stunning place when laced in snow.
Thats hardcore adventure riding ADVGD, you southern boys are ledgends :cold: think if I was riding in those conditions I'd almost be tempted to give HG's a crack, as well as heated seat, heated helmet, heated jacket, pants....can ya get heated boots :corn:
pomgolian
9th May 2013, 21:17
+ 1 coming from the land of bad weather heated grips are great if you want to ride all day in shite weather, one of those heated vests are also very cool - keep your core and hands warm and its so much more enjoyable no matter what the weather.
Cool pics ADVGD have you ever been stuck in bad weather ?do you carry a SPOT or EPERB ?
Cool pics ADVGD have you ever been stuck in bad weather ?do you carry a SPOT or EPERB ?
Cheers mate. The snow chains allow me to get through some fairly deep snow and icy conditions however I don't lose sight of NZ's unpredictable and often fierce weather around the High Country, if I do get caught out my normal kit includes a -30 degree C sleeping bag/sleeping gear, cooking gear, extra food, a range of supplies, extensive toolkit, bike spares plus a PLB.
Those snow pics were from this trip (http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/121/west-coast-ride.php)
This trip (http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/98/west-coast-ride.php) was a West Coast ride of Chch and NADS lads, heavy rain overnight and swollen rivers made for a challenge to get out of Big River.
Hi guys
can anyone help me out here . i am having power issues with my 96 drz 400 . basically power drops off just about every time i really need it ..then kicks back in and tries to f**k me off the bike .normally happens when entering a river or powering over mounds on the beach etc ..it can back fire at times when the power comes back on . i had it looked at by a mechanic and he cleaned out the carb and jets etc but it's still occurring .Sorry my mechanical knowledge is limited ..does it sound like anything familiar ?
rigley
7th June 2013, 16:12
Hi guys
can anyone help me out here . i am having power issues with my 96 drz 400 . basically power drops off just about every time i really need it ..then kicks back in and tries to f**k me off the bike .normally happens when entering a river or powering over mounds on the beach etc ..it can back fire at times when the power comes back on . i had it looked at by a mechanic and he cleaned out the carb and jets etc but it's still occurring .Sorry my mechanical knowledge is limited ..does it sound like anything familiar ?
Are you sure your bike is 96? Anyway, if it stalls and back fires when going through river crossing try looking at the carb breather pipes, some people splice the pipes just after the carbs and put in a "T", route a new piece of pipe for each into the air box, or alternatively just route the pipes from the carb up the underside of the fuel tank. Both seem to stop the stalling/ misfire problem when doing river crossings, not sure what else might going on when you go over beach mounds?
NordieBoy
7th June 2013, 16:52
Short on the spark lead or leading to the coil?
Are you sure your bike is 96? Anyway, if it stalls and back fires when going through river crossing try looking at the carb breather pipes, some people splice the pipes just after the carbs and put in a "T", route a new piece of pipe for each into the air box, or alternatively just route the pipes from the carb up the underside of the fuel tank. Both seem to stop the stalling/ misfire problem when doing river crossings, not sure what else might going on when you go over beach mounds?
Sorry meant 06 drz.
was doing the same on hill climbs or when say trying to power out of a dip ...like i said when ever i really need the power :crazy:...at one stage though while say climbing a track and holding a steady throttle it would just come on and off constantly ..must have made funny viewing seeing me buck back and forth up a hill . to remedy it i would pull the clutch in and give it a good rev which will work temporarily .
Yeh nordie boy some one else said it could be a spark issue ...would a knew plug sort that . i'm ordering one anyway !
Night Falcon
7th June 2013, 17:59
Sorry meant 06 drz.
was doing the same on hill climbs or when say trying to power out of a dip ...like i said when ever i really need the power :crazy:...at one stage though while say climbing a track and holding a steady throttle it would just come on and off constantly ..must have made funny viewing seeing me buck back and forth up a hill . to remedy it i would pull the clutch in and give it a good rev which will work temporarily .
Yeh nordie boy some one else said it could be a spark issue ...would a knew plug sort that . i'm ordering one anyway !
check your plug lead has good connections at both ends (plug and coil)
sAsLEX
7th June 2013, 19:27
Check all the breather tubes, I had some similar issues and cleared quite a collection of spooge and gunge out of them and all is now good. Just shoved some cable ties up from the end and wiggled about with a little solvent to clear them. Also rerouted 2 of the 4 to up near the headstock.
What sort of price should I look for selling an 06 in reasonable condition in Auckland?
It's your sidestand cutout switch, either add a heavy spring or do what everyone else does and cut it out of the loom and join the wires together for happy motoring (use a bungey cord to hold the sidestand up on a test ride too check before making any changes).
NordieBoy
7th June 2013, 22:33
It's your sidestand cutout switch, either add a heavy spring or do what everyone else does and cut it out of the loom and join the wires together for happy motoring (use a bungey cord to hold the sidestand up on a test ride too check before making any changes).
Who are you again?
The face is familiar but I can't pick the nose...
Who are you again?
The face is familiar but I can't pick the nose...
hmmmmm yeah, wife/baby/new job/dead bike will do that to you occasionally - not to mention bigger things on the horizon:woohoo: DAKAR BABY YEAH
rigley
9th June 2013, 12:06
hmmmmm yeah, wife/baby/new job/dead bike will do that to you occasionally - not to mention bigger things on the horizon:woohoo: DAKAR BABY YEAH
Good to hear you are still out there!
rigley
10th June 2013, 19:34
SM = Supermotard (pretty common, sortcore, tin tank, road legal)
S = Supermotard with 21 inch front (rare in NZ, tin tank, gutless, crap suspension)
E = Enduro (plastic tank and all the good bits)
But the sub type is:
E offroad = (all the fruit)
E onroad = (all the fruit plus road legal, bigger headlight with dip, indicators, fancy speedo thing, tool bag, passenger pegs, roadyish tyres)
I wouldn't touch the SM or S. E onroad is the only way to go.
As for oil....cooking will do.
Just a quick question about my E offroad version, used on the road with an on road kit, should it have a radiator fan for road/ slow trail use? Just trying to get to the bottom of a stator problem, I'm on the second in 5 months!
I do have a second question, is there anyone who makes a good light weight pannier rack system for the E version? Was thinking of fitting Wolfman Expedition series bags to them.
Cheers
ADVGD
10th June 2013, 21:08
Just a quick question I have about the E onroad version, does it have a radiator fan?
Nope...
is there anyone who makes a good light weight pannier rack system for the E version? Was thinking of fitting Wolfman Expedition series bags to them.
The Wolfman racks are probably your best option for the Wolfman Expedition bags, the bags have clips that correspond to slots in the racks, much easier getting both together. The racks are a good price and are made from 4130
rigley
10th June 2013, 21:36
Nope...
The Wolfman racks are probably your best option for the Wolfman Expedition bags, the bags have clips that correspond to slots in the racks, much easier getting both together. The bags are a good price and are made from 4130
Only one problem, they only do a side pannier rack for the S/SM model, I have the E with no rear sub frame/rear peg mounts?
ADVGD
10th June 2013, 21:58
I thought I'd share an attempt at a 3X3 mod on a DRZ400 I saw on advrider. 10 out of 10 for giving it a go, but I think the chap missed the mark a little on this one :facepalm:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v44/ladyeclectic/null_zps78f84273.jpg
ADVGD
10th June 2013, 22:04
Only one problem, they only do a side pannier rack for the S/SM model, I have the E with no rear sub frame/rear peg mounts?
Most racks on the market are for S/SM subframes. You can use the Wolfman racks and mod your subframe, if you don't tig weld then your local engineer should only charge around $80 to bang on a lug each side to mount the lower frame arms to.
Extra lug for Wolfman racks. More info here DRZ400 build (http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/142/drz400-adv-build.php)
http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/142/images/drz400-adv-build-15.jpg
rigley
10th June 2013, 22:08
I thought I'd share an attempt at a 3X3 mod on a DRZ400 I saw on advrider. 10 out of 10 for giving it a go, but I think the chap missed the mark a little on this one :facepalm:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v44/ladyeclectic/null_zps78f84273.jpg
Looks like a good place to put your pet Gerbil in :rolleyes:
rigley
10th June 2013, 22:10
Most racks on the market are for S/SM subframes. You can use the Wolfman racks and mod your subframe, if you don't tig weld then your local engineer should only charge around $80 to bang on a lug each side to mount the lower frame arms to.
Extra lug for Wolfman racks. More info here DRZ400 build (http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/142/drz400-adv-build.php)
http://www.adventureguide.co.nz/articles/12/142/images/drz400-adv-build-15.jpg
Great, that was the info I was looking for.
Cheers
irsh
11th June 2013, 13:45
It's your sidestand cutout switch, either add a heavy spring or do what everyone else does and cut it out of the loom and join the wires together for happy motoring (use a bungey cord to hold the sidestand up on a test ride too check before making any changes).
You may be right mate , just started the bike and stand is very wobbly . just a slight nudge with my foot and she cuts out . that's in first with the clutch in . so essentially what it could be doing when i hit some rough terrain or water is cutting and crash starting itself . will try sort the stand first and see how she goes .
cheers
topo
11th June 2013, 18:22
You may be right mate , just started the bike and stand is very wobbly . just a slight nudge with my foot and she cuts out . that's in first with the clutch in . so essentially what it could be doing when i hit some rough terrain or water is cutting and crash starting itself . will try sort the stand first and see how she goes .
cheers
Yip thats the problem alright then, if your new to the drz then i'd strongly recomend you get on thumpertalk and do the common fixes that are stickied.
NordieBoy
11th June 2013, 19:21
Worse is a sticky stand.
Go through a dip and the stand drops slightly. And stays dropped. Engine dies...
Cue muttering...
:angry2:
Padmei
16th June 2013, 12:06
My DRZ is back on the market again if anyone knows of anyone looking for one.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-604829231.htm
Crim
16th June 2013, 18:32
you want a klr again , don't you?
Padmei
16th June 2013, 19:22
you want a klr again , don't you?
No but I still love them. I actually want a lot of crap but also another lifetime to use it all.
neels
16th June 2013, 20:36
Can anyone tell me where ventura pack rack brackets mount on a 2000 E model? Am thinking of buying some (the rack itself is the same as my ducati so easy for swapsies) but I seem to have a lot of stripped bolt holes in the rear subframe on mine so don't want to spend money if the mountings aint gonna work.
dino3310
17th June 2013, 09:02
I thought I'd share an attempt at a 3X3 mod on a DRZ400 I saw on advrider. 10 out of 10 for giving it a go, but I think the chap missed the mark a little on this one :facepalm:
[
I used these on the XR... worked bloody well and look the part to http://www.sportspro.co.nz/products/parts-accessories/dirtbike-accessories/air-filters-filter-oil/uni-filter-air-vent-6-pack.aspx
Padmei
17th June 2013, 12:43
Thats not the usual 6 pack XR riders use to go faster Dino. i'm disappointed in you.
Night Falcon
17th June 2013, 17:54
My DRZ is back on the market again if anyone knows of anyone looking for one.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dual-purpose/auction-604829231.htm
have a mate who's looking round for a DRZ400 so will let him know...price looks good but he's in North Island which means he'd have come south to pick her up and that would mean I'd have to go with him and that would mean 1-2 weeks off work to do some exploring and that would mean getting permission from my long suffering wife and that would mean behaving myself for at least a week or two and that would mean less bike riding and that would mean more stress and that would mean possible ill health and that would mean no travelling and that would mean no south Island trip and that would mean I couldn't escort me mate down to pick her up and that would mean he gets a trip and I don't and that's just not acceptable so that means he'll just have to find his own great deal on a DRZ :mad: :corn:
Padmei
17th June 2013, 19:50
have a mate who's looking round for a DRZ400 so will let him know...price looks good but he's in North Island which means he'd have come south to pick her up and that would mean I'd have to go with him and that would mean 1-2 weeks off work to do some exploring and that would mean getting permission from my long suffering wife and that would mean behaving myself for at least a week or two and that would mean less bike riding and that would mean more stress and that would mean possible ill health and that would mean no travelling and that would mean no south Island trip and that would mean I couldn't escort me mate down to pick her up and that would mean he gets a trip and I don't and that's just not acceptable so that means he'll just have to find his own great deal on a DRZ :mad: :corn:
Oh well at least you tried:pinch:
dino3310
21st June 2013, 09:55
pumper anyone http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/other/auction-606648893.htm
ADVGD
10th July 2013, 16:54
A delicious new set of rubber'n'rims, yummo
http://adventureguide.co.nz/public-images/adventure-riding/radmfg-1.jpg
http://adventureguide.co.nz/public-images/adventure-riding/radmfg-2.jpg
sAsLEX
10th July 2013, 17:21
oh wow this looks like a bike everyone should buy http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=613366027
rigley
10th July 2013, 19:04
A delicious new set of rubber'n'rims, yummo
http://adventureguide.co.nz/public-images/adventure-riding/radmfg-1.jpg
http://adventureguide.co.nz/public-images/adventure-riding/radmfg-2.jpg
You bike is looking really hot !
NordieBoy
10th July 2013, 19:39
You bike is looking really hot !
And it hasn't even got USD forks...
rigley
10th July 2013, 21:15
And it hasn't even got USD forks...
Posers have USD forks :)
NordieBoy
10th July 2013, 21:24
Posers have USD forks :)
They've been scientifically proven to make stators last longer...
rigley
10th July 2013, 22:07
They've been scientifically proven to make stators last longer...
I hope so, three shouts DRZ and you ARE out ! Orange might be looking good from then :)
Box'a'bits
10th July 2013, 22:11
Actually DRZ forks are becoming rather fashionable for conversion by Airhead riders. That must mean that they are rather more unfashionable amongst everyone else :facepalm:
Padmei
22nd July 2013, 21:49
Bits & pieces for someones project.
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/dirt-bikes/auction-616522705.htm
irsh
24th July 2013, 11:36
Hi
is there anyone in NZ specializing in comfort seats or upholstering the stock seat so i may have a chance of reproducing some time in the future .
also anyone selling or know where to get a long range tanks apart from buying overseas ... ?
cheers
rigley
24th July 2013, 12:12
Hi
is there anyone in NZ specializing in comfort seats or upholstering the stock seat so i may have a chance of reproducing some time in the future .
also anyone selling or know where to get a long range tanks apart from buying overseas ... ?
cheers
I had mine reupholstered by a local guy in Richmond, he widened it and added some memory foam, made a massive difference in comfort over longer rides, all for $75!
As far as your Safari tank goes, keep an eye what comes up for sale second hand, I managed to get one, though there are other options to look at like spare tanks etc.
irsh
25th July 2013, 12:00
I had mine reupholstered by a local guy in Richmond, he widened it and added some memory foam, made a massive difference in comfort over longer rides, all for $75!
As far as your Safari tank goes, keep an eye what comes up for sale second hand, I managed to get one, though there are other options to look at like spare tanks etc.
cheers mate .. do you have a name for that place in richmond ?
yeah might have to bite the bullet on the tank and ship one in
rigley
25th July 2013, 13:53
cheers mate .. do you have a name for that place in richmond ?
yeah might have to bite the bullet on the tank and ship one in
Fenemors Upholstery 03 544 5763. Talk to Ross, he is semi retired and he spends a lot of time roaming around in his Motorhome.
leathel
3rd September 2013, 19:29
Well I have joined the DRZ ranks :)
http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd316/leathel-one/IMG_8814.jpg (http://s222.photobucket.com/user/leathel-one/media/IMG_8814.jpg.html)
bosslady
3rd September 2013, 21:00
Wait does mine count?
neels
3rd September 2013, 21:02
Wait does mine count?
Don't see any letters after the 400 in the thread title, so by default probably yes?
pete-blen
19th September 2013, 23:38
Who's going to try.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=8h7BOGlNO8E
Padmei
20th September 2013, 07:52
I would be interested to see if he can get his tank back off now.:mellow:
rigley
20th September 2013, 07:52
Who's going to try.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=8h7BOGlNO8E
Wow, why spend $600 on a Safari Tank when you can do this? Good luck to the first one who tries it, I done a "gentle" pressure test on my expansion bottle after noticing some cracks, I got to half a a pump before BOOOOOM!!!! Ha, Ha
leathel
20th September 2013, 10:08
Dont think I will be doing that with the water cooled models ....
gwynfryn
20th September 2013, 20:08
it obviously seems to work and expands out at the weakest points so why expand it with the seat off? I would be scared that it might distort at the seat junction.
Wouldn't mind a couple of litres more capacity for the xr but dunno , Honda plastic is probably tougher!
Alpha Solo
27th December 2013, 06:51
About time to resurrect this thread!
I have some DRZ bits available after my recent (re) build -
17 Litre Tank
Full Ali bash plate
Yellow plastics set
Home made rear rack
P.M. me if you are interested in any of the above.
WANTED: Case savers, billet parts + any other fancy aftermarket spares you may have.
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