Hard-wired headlights?

[sil3nt]

I've done a search but i can't find any information (either on this forum or on the internet) on hard wiring the headlights to always be on when the bike is started. Apparently new bikes already have this but is it possible to do it on my bike? If any can point me to any information on this it would be much appreciated!

*edit*
I have found DLR (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytime_running_lamp)s but its not that helpful.

[XP@]

Just disable the switch by connecting a short wire from one side to the other.
Make sure the connection is good otherwise it will get hot. Either solder it or use the eye type connectors depending on what is in your switch gear.

If you want to do it anywhere else on the bike you will need a copy of the wiring diagram for your bike. Try here:
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Electrical_%26_Lighting

[CookMySock]

In theory, you could run a wire from one of the stator coils to a diode and then to the headlight relay, and it SHOULD pull that relay in whenever the engine is running. The stator would have to be wired in star, and it would have to be grounded in the center. You might (probably will) need a current-limiting resistor in series with the diode.

gnd/--------@@@@@------/\/\/\/\-------------OOOO-----/gnd
_________stator coil____current limit R____H/L relay

DON'T just rush out and do this until others have commented, coz there might be some problem with it. Or else wire it up temporarily next to the bike and check the current through the relay and if the relay coil is getting hot.

If your rectifier pack fails, it WILL then proceed to fry any or all of the above components, and no, putting a fuse on it won't save it, and yes you should probably fuse it anyway (1amp is heaps).

Steve

[vindy500]

just short out the switch

[sharknet]

Just leave the switch on all the time, I assume that when the key is removed the lights go out anyway...unless your bike is really old, or british, or both.

[YellowDog]

I've done a search but i can't find any information (either on this forum or on the internet) on hard wiring the headlights to always be on when the bike is started. Apparently new bikes already have this but is it possible to do it on my bike? If any can point me to any information on this it would be much appreciated!

*edit*
I have found DLR (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytime_running_lamp)s but its not that helpful.
Hey, this is quite an easy one depending upon the accessibility of the switch.

If you take the two female connectors off the switch and then replace one of the female ends for a male end; all you need to do is to join them together and then put the now non-operational physical switch back in place. You may wish to use the switch for something else or just keep it for decoration:)

The benefit of using this method is that if you ever come to sell the bike, you can easily recommission the switch without any trouble.

Good luck.

[sil3nt]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I could just leave the switch on but that seems far to simple ;)

[vindy500]

i would leave it as is, when your battery's dying sometimes it helps to be able to turn the light off

[CookMySock]

Just leave the switch on all the timeIt's real easy to bump the switch off, and you would never know until you got home.

Steve

[XP@]

Mine got turned off one night in wellington, I got stopped going up the gorge and the nice police man suggested I turn on my lights...
Have new bike now and there is no light switch.

[rok-the-boat]

Why would you even want to bother? If my bike did that I'd be asking hte opposite question. I want to be able to control when I have my lights on. If you have an electkery problem of any kind you wanna be able to turn most stuff off and the ligths take a whole heap of power from your battery. I can't believe how many people sit there for a min or two with igntion and light on without the engine running. Battery goes flat real quick. Also, ignition on sends power to the coils - some can get overheated with constant power.

[scumdog]

Why would you even want to bother? If my bike did that I'd be asking hte opposite question. I want to be able to control when I have my lights on. If you have an electkery problem of any kind you wanna be able to turn most stuff off and the ligths take a whole heap of power from your battery. I can't believe how many people sit there for a min or two with igntion and light on without the engine running. Battery goes flat real quick. Also, ignition on sends power to the coils - some can get overheated with constant power.

Sounds like you have an old bike.

Never had the above problems

[CookMySock]

ligths take a whole heap of power from your battery. Uh, no they draw about 5 amps. Your battery should easily do that for a whole hour and then still start the bike ok. Unless you have a fucked battery or starter, and then you should probably fix the problem.


I can't believe how many people sit there for a min or two with igntion and light on without the engine running. Battery goes flat real quick. Uh no thats not the problem. You need a new battery, or you should fix your charging system.


Also, ignition on sends power to the coils - some can get overheated with constant power.Uh, no it doesn't. It's not a conventional car ignition - it's a CDI. CDI's discharge a capacitor into the ignition coil creating a very short and hot spark. They don't sit there with the points closed heating up your coil like your cortina does.


Steve

[davereid]

Harleys are wired so the lights come on when you turn the key on. It means a little bit of extra current draw while cranking, but it doesnt seem to matter.

My ER6F has a rectifier across the alternator. The rectifier pulls in a relay which automatically turns the lights on. Saves cranking with the lights on, but more parts to go wrong.

The CZ has a 55 watt generator at 6 volts. Half of that goes to run the coil (3.5 amps anyway).

The balance is not really enough to keep the headlight on except for small trips.. compulsory headlights on will be a bastard !

Gotta find a candle that wont go out in a breeze..

[Starky307]

My ER6F has a rectifier across the alternator. The rectifier pulls in a relay which automatically turns the lights on. Saves cranking with the lights on, but more parts to go wrong.

I've just tried doing this to my KXF which i fitted a lighting coil (alternator) too.
The output from the rectifier goes through a diode to a battery, just before the diode it feeds a coil. The battery (down stream of the diode) goes through the contact of the coil and then to the headlight and back to a common negative on the coil.

It won't bring the coil in but it will charge the battery, there appears to be no potential across the coil (which is the dc output of the rectifier).

When the bike runs the voltage across the battery increases so the coil output is working.

Any ideas?

P.s i started another thread but put this in here as you seemed to know what I am trying to do.