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Lou Girardin
14th March 2005, 21:24
Time's marched on so I better give a few highlights.
Left Nelson to darkening skies and sure enough, at Golden Downs it pissed down. We stopped at Murchison, chicken pies and hot chocolate have never tasted so good. The rain stopped at Punakaiki and we were dry by Greymouth.
Valentines day was celebrated at the Recreation Hotel where I was introduced to West Coast servings. Eight massive scallops as an entre? I seriously struggled with my steak after that lot. Both kinds of wine were on offer, red and white.
Next day the West Coast was dry, sunny and magical. Stopped for the night at Haast. The struggle to find a room should have warned us, there is but one place to eat on a Tuesday in Haast. Everything else is closed.
That night and next morning were bathed in a West coast drizzle (monsoon to the rest of us). We were slightly damp at Makarora, but coffee and pies warmed us and the rain stopped. Just in time for the superb run along Lake Wanaka through to Lake Hawea and Wanaka township. Winding road lined with lake shore and mountain peaks it needed to be done twice. From Wanaka it was up the Crown range for the first time. Had to stop at the Cardrona for a pint and promised ourselves that we'll stay the night next trip. It's a truly lovely spot.
The road up to the summit was good, but I was thinking it wasn't THAT great. Then we reached the summit and saw the views over Whakatipu and the Kawarau gorge. Breathtaking isn't the word for that view.
Next day we did the local winerys. Travelling down the Kawarau gorge we saw vineyards on our right and what seemed to be a track around some scary bluffs. 300 metres on there was a sign saying Chard farm winery turn right. Sure enough it was the goat track we saw earlier. But a little off-roading never kept me from a top winery.
The following day we did the Glenorchy road, fast or slow this is one of the all time great rides. Tight corners and open fast sweepers, this has it all, with some of the greatest scenery you'll see anywhere in the world.
Time came to leave Queenstown and we headed to the inland high country road. It grew colder and colder crossing the Lindis and we started seeing more bikes. From Omarama on it got sunnier and warmer. At Lake Pukaki we started seeing classic alpine cloud formations like fluffy frisbees in the sky. Detoured to Mt Cook and followed Mr Harley rider at 130 odd k's, probably the fastest we cruised at on the entire trip. Then back towards Lake Tekapo. This road gives the lie to our 100 km/h limit, you could cruise at 160 through here without a worry. So why can't we?
But gas stations are few and far between here and I'm not too comfortable travelling on reserve with no town in sight. So Lake Tekapo was good to see in more ways than one.
At Arthurs Pass we met up with some Aussies on Ducatis, a Multistrada and an ST4. We also met up with a cycle race. Up till then I had had some sympathy for Astrid Anderson when she was charged after the death of a cycle race competitor. Having seen these clowns in action that's all changed, the wonder is that more aren't killed. We saw an escort car doing 15 km/h around blind bends. Cyclists three abreast in corners at 40 km/h with a queue of cars behind, and to top it off, a woman decided to have a chat with a cyclist while driving her car in the middle of the road. Loonies, all of them.
OD'ed on dopamine I think.
We thought we'd visit the Blackball Hilton on the next day. So we're travelling along looking for the turn-off. We pass a guy on a Beemer and a short way on we pull over to check the map. A ute pulls up and the driver asked if we were with the Beemer because he turned down the Lake Brunner road. Next minute the Beemer pulls up next to us. He says hi and where are we going. We said Blackball. He said I'll take you there. So I'm started to wonder about this, then as we turn off the main road a van pulls in behind and proceeds to follow us. Now I've seen Deliverance right, and this started to get a little spooky. So we enter Blackball with our escort and the van disappears. Our Beemer rider turns out to be Dave from Ikamatua and we get the guided tour of the pub and a potted history of the town. I guess it was the mist and low clouds on the peaks that was creeping us out.
Then it was a leisurely cruise back to Nelson and a few days with the out-laws.
The trip from Wellywood to Auckland was the usual drag until I turned off at Turangi to take the western side of Taupo. Then it pissed down and during the piss down I missed the turn-off. I thought the road was a bit unfamiliar, but I was more concerned with staying shiny side up and not high-siding on all the 'summer ice', melted tar to you. So the sign saying Taumaranui 5 km's was a little surprise. I was more than a little annoyed with myself by then. The leg from there to Auckland was more than leisurely. I won't mention my average speed except to say it was 90 mumble, mumble. something k's including stops.
I really didn't want this trip to end,the weather was getting better as we went along and it seemed to pass far too quickly. Ate and drank far too much, bought too much wine. (Which is just about enough) Every six bottles earned the next winery the honour of shipping it home for us, a great system. The Bandit went like a dream. We had a serious load on, us and three Givi bags with all the necessities of life, her hair dryer, straightening tongs, make up, skin care etc. Plus my undies. The chain oiler meant that I didn't have to adjust it in 4000 k's. Apart from nearly knackering a rear tyre it was all good.
Are Bandits the do everything bike or not?
And if you haven't done the South Island, WHAT ARE YOU WAITING FOR!

Holy Roller
14th March 2005, 22:36
Great write up

Pity about the rain but that the way it goes I guess. The escort to the Hlton sounded freaky one cant be too trusting these days. All's well thats ends well now for that new tyre and start planning again ay.:niceone:

bear
15th March 2005, 07:35
Got my tour planned for next summer, but reading this makes me want to go now. Thanks for the write up, the Blackball adventure really did sound concerning - glad it worked out.

What?
18th March 2005, 06:06
Damn it all... after Linda Blair's loud gloating all day at Puke, then reading this, my feet are getting itchy.