XP@
14th May 2009, 14:09
Having never done it before I decided that now is a good time to learn how to re-build the wheels of my classic bike. It has turned out not to be too difficult, here is how I did it...
Got a spoke spanner for about $15 from the local bike shop.
Set up a vice with a jig to keep the wheel in position and enable me to set the measure points.
I took photo's from both sides showing the spoke patterns.
Measured the rim off set. (Although I am not convinced this is correct, but can set it again when it goes back on the bike)
Once ready I dismantled the wheel, cleaned & polished the spokes and rim.
I kept the spokes in 2 groups, for each side of the wheel. It would have been easier to spilt each side into "inside and outside" sets.
To help re-assembly I suspended the rim in approximately the right position over the rim.
With the photos stapled to the jig I laced the wheel. Starting at the back I worked round the wheel putting the spokes loosely in position.
Once all the spokes were laced I started to true. the wheel. I first made sure all the spokes were tightened to a #2 torque setting on the electric drill or the spoke reached the top.
Working on the vertical first, I moved the rim by slackening off the area where it was too close, going to the opposite side and tightening it by the same amount. Measuring in 1/4 turns of the spanner started with about 3 - 5 turns in the centre with less as I moved out.
|<-- center of the warp
2 3 4 5 5 4 3 2
A couple of passes on the vertical saw the rim centred to +-5mm.
With the rim approximately centred I started to work on the horizontal warp. This time loosening the spokes on the side I wanted to move it to and loosening the other side by the same amount.
Working around the wheel a few times the warp was down to +-2mm. I re-checked the height and it was now only off by +-3mm. For this wheel I am quite satisfied with this, it is never going to exceed 60kph and I may opt to paint the hub in the near future.
Detailed how to:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-wheels/spoke-wheels/
Tips and local supplies:
http://www.wheelandspoke.co.nz/
Got a spoke spanner for about $15 from the local bike shop.
Set up a vice with a jig to keep the wheel in position and enable me to set the measure points.
I took photo's from both sides showing the spoke patterns.
Measured the rim off set. (Although I am not convinced this is correct, but can set it again when it goes back on the bike)
Once ready I dismantled the wheel, cleaned & polished the spokes and rim.
I kept the spokes in 2 groups, for each side of the wheel. It would have been easier to spilt each side into "inside and outside" sets.
To help re-assembly I suspended the rim in approximately the right position over the rim.
With the photos stapled to the jig I laced the wheel. Starting at the back I worked round the wheel putting the spokes loosely in position.
Once all the spokes were laced I started to true. the wheel. I first made sure all the spokes were tightened to a #2 torque setting on the electric drill or the spoke reached the top.
Working on the vertical first, I moved the rim by slackening off the area where it was too close, going to the opposite side and tightening it by the same amount. Measuring in 1/4 turns of the spanner started with about 3 - 5 turns in the centre with less as I moved out.
|<-- center of the warp
2 3 4 5 5 4 3 2
A couple of passes on the vertical saw the rim centred to +-5mm.
With the rim approximately centred I started to work on the horizontal warp. This time loosening the spokes on the side I wanted to move it to and loosening the other side by the same amount.
Working around the wheel a few times the warp was down to +-2mm. I re-checked the height and it was now only off by +-3mm. For this wheel I am quite satisfied with this, it is never going to exceed 60kph and I may opt to paint the hub in the near future.
Detailed how to:
http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-wheels/spoke-wheels/
Tips and local supplies:
http://www.wheelandspoke.co.nz/