What to coat brushed/polished/bare steel with on a bike?

[Conquiztador]

I want a bare steel look on a bike. No paint, no chrome. The idea is to strip all paint and then give the bike a buffering without bringin it to a polished shine. Once that is done I would coate the steel with a cler of some sort to preserve the look and stop it from rusting.

But what is the best option?

Any ideas?

[xwhatsit]

Hell fucking yes.

Clear goes yellow, though.

I've always wanted to build a bike like this. Paint is so... well, you're covering up what the bike really is. It's like fairings.

Bare aluminium is the sexiest material. Polish it... shiny and gorgeous. Leave it to get scratched and tarnish... even cooler.

[jonbuoy]

How about a clear powdercoat or aluminum ceramic from HPC, I got my swingarm done in the ceramic - it looks the biso' wish I had the whole frame done in it now. A rattle can clearcoat job won't last five minutes.

[cc rider]

For our business (fabrication & restoration) we have metals, mostly brass & ali, with various finishes, clear lacquered by an Enamelling & Lacquering Company & have never had any yellowing or peeling.

I know the bike pics aren't the finish you're talking about Conquiztador.

This is what ali & stainless steel can look like high polished & no coating. It has kept it's finish, only hand cleaned or buffed.

Sorry if pics not good - 15yr old & scanned

pic2 eagle, riser & triple-trees are all ali
pic 3 magneto & skull ali
pic 4 primary & hub ali
only chrome on the bike are 5 linkages

that's my 2 cents

[Crisis management]

Powder coat won't work as it is not water proof so it's either a lacquer (usually a hard and brittle coating) or a two pack clear (if that exists).
Problems will be:
After polishing the steel it begins to rust immediately so you will have to either be really quick or spray a preservative (oil) on it as you polish, then remove preservative before painting.
You will need to get a complete covering of all the exposed metal including around edges so you don't get corrosion starting, once it starts it's like creeping death.....Problems will be with attatching stuff back on, it's impossible to assemble the bike without damaging the paint surface.

So, contact car painters first and see what two pack products are available, two pack because they are usually high build and flexible so will take some abuse and go from there.

There is a Harley around up here thats been chopped into a sort of semi bobber / rat look that is bare metal everything but it's seriously rusty looking (intentionally) and seems to have a lacquer type finish, if you want that sort of look it's certainly achievable!

Pics required, sounds like an interesting project.

[Conquiztador]

My thoughts sofar on replies:
- The powdercoat: Had no idea you can get a clear. Need to look in to result.
- HPC ceramic. Close, but as it covers the steel under it is not what I am looking for.
- Polished and left to rust/corrode. have considered, but no, not what I am after. I do not want the shiny polished/chromed look. Only brushed/buffed.
- Clear. Yep, that is where I am going with this most probably. A 2-pot clear that does not go yellow. And there is the issue with steel starting to rust straight away. So if this is what the decision is to do, then I need to figure out a way to minimise this.

So if nobody comes up with something else, then it probably will be a clear. But was really hoping that there was some "new' technology I could use.

I have also been considering a copper plating with clear over. But really want the raw steel look.

[Pinstripe]

POR15 has a product called 'Glisten PC'. Haven't used it myself, but it sounds like the business
http://www.por15.co.nz/POR15Prod/glistenpc.htm

[CookMySock]

http://www.nyalic.co.nz/

Steve

[Conquiztador]

http://www.nyalic.co.nz/

Steve


POR15 has a product called 'Glisten PC'. Haven't used it myself, but it sounds like the business
http://www.por15.co.nz/POR15Prod/glistenpc.htm

Thanks for those two! Both loks like they could do the job. I will look in to them.

[Pinstripe]

Thanks for those two! Both loks like they could do the job. I will look in to them.

No worries :)

Got a bike in mind for the project?

[monkeymsea]

You could also put a "clear" powder coat over the top. HPC does it..

[Dodgyiti]

POR15 has a product called 'Glisten PC'. Haven't used it myself, but it sounds like the business
http://www.por15.co.nz/POR15Prod/glistenpc.htm

I have used this stuff, it can come in a kit with the prep solution and the two pot glisten.
Worked ok on super clean engine block (ali) that was vapour blasted. The cast ali gear box I did but cleaned up at home (was sure it was absolutely clean but may have been addled by the cleaning solvents :no:) and that is now leaching white crusty stuff, but still under the clearcoat.
As for bare metal I only did 2 small brackets to see what happens, the ones that hold the horn on at the front as they get water and crud blasted.
It looked fine for 8-10 months then went a little milky but held fast and did not show signs of red rust or lifting.
The stuff is hard as a rock and heat 'resistant' as in all but cylinder heads and barrels, and of course exhausts.
There was an FJ Holden drag ute done in this coating, the whole thing. Which tempeted me to try it out.
(bad pic from Kumeu Hot Rod Show 2003 enclosed)
(thats not a Hobbit in the picture, it's just a Westie)

[AllanB]

There is a sweet rat rod in CHCH that's bare steel with a flat clear coat on it. Seriously badarse.

One of the new Screaming Eagle Harleys has a clear coated part steel finish - you can see the sanding marks in the steel before it transforms to the paint.

[FJRider]

Maybe just "Autosol" .. Buff and polish to what you want. A light coat will cover metal, and protect it. but requires regular repeats.

[cc rider]

Appologies if mentioned already

Only other process I can think of, is having the parts baked with Ceramic Paint. We had the exhaust pipes coated on one of the harleys.
They need to be polished first, so if you're set-up to do that in-house, brill.

It is a paint - ours is an aluminium colour.
The coating is applied inside & out. Obviously heat resistant.
Been about 2yrs, still looking sweet. No discolouring, rubbing, peeling etc around clamps etc. Just put muffler back on today & paints good. Cleans up with autosol.

(needs a clean, oops! not my dept.)

[skidMark]

You trying to make it lighter so its not so hard to push it home?

[Paul in NZ]

There is a sweet rat rod in CHCH that's bare steel with a flat clear coat on it. Seriously badarse.

One of the new Screaming Eagle Harleys has a clear coated part steel finish - you can see the sanding marks in the steel before it transforms to the paint.


The finish on those bikes is just amazing - the steel is swirled like a flame job under the clear coat. Without a doubt it is the BEST looking paint job I've seen, I was gobsmacked!

I was thinking a Triumph tank with the effect in the scollops - cor (drool)

[Motu]

The bare steel look is really interesting on a brazed frame,looks not so good an a MIG frame.There were a couple at the Puke classic meeting with bare frames....nice to see where the brass is.

[Dodgyiti]

The finish on those bikes is just amazing - the steel is swirled like a flame job under the clear coat. Without a doubt it is the BEST looking paint job I've seen, I was gobsmacked!

I was thinking a Triumph tank with the effect in the scollops - cor (drool)

Nice idea!
graphics and bare steel

[Conquiztador]

No worries :)

Got a bike in mind for the project?

Yep. Picked up a K100 that already has the big 4cyl alloy motor as a focal point. The tank is also quite big. A few changes to the bike (mainly cosmetical like backend and lights/faering etc) and she is a perfect candidate.

I have this German WW2 steel fighter plane look I want to create but in a bike. I always loved the thought of death travelling with the sun glimmering in the unpainted steel. You can not but admire the artistic side as it noisily arrives. And then bedlam as the killing starts.

Here: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/group.php?do=discuss&group=&discussionid=442

[Renegade]

as an ex powder coater i would advise against this, standard clear is designed for interior finishes but there is an anti-graffiti clear that is much tougher, suitable for outside and a higher bake temp.

Problem is if it chips water gets up under the coating, starts to go milky in appearance and eventually lift, and its a real mission to get off but can me touch re-coated, BUT baking = complete frame strip.

I would stand by the the POR15 products, have used the gloss back on chassis and its tough, literally smash the chassis with a hammer and no damage, ive done it.

my 2c.

[CookMySock]

The marine industry just thrives on that Nyalic stuff. Almost every second marine aluminium product comes out with it on, and nothing is harder to coat than aluminium, and nothing is worse to deal with long-term than sea water. Comes in a 340ml spray can too. Looks like there is a strict procedure to put it on.

I've never tried it.

Steve