Starting problems

[CookMySock]

Bike is an 2005 Hyosung GT650R.

Cold engine, full choke, no throttle, start, instant fire off and high idle. All good.

Ride to town, shut it down, try to start and "whirr..." engine does half a turn like the battery is real flat or the engine is hydraulicing.

Leave it for an hour - warm engine, no choke, normal start - normal engine spin over and instant start, normal idle.

Ride for half an hour and shut it down. Same as above - engine does half a turn, no more, dash lights go out. So we push start it - starts easily, idles and runs perfectly.

Ride for another half an hour, same as above, won't start. Push start it - starts perfectly.

Ride it home - one hour, and get the test meters out while the engine is still idling. Batt terminal volts 11v. No current flowing in the 12V batt plus red lead. 10-15A flowing in the Batt negative lead from the loom to the large chassis strap.

Stop engine. Wont start - same as above.

Come back an hour later - flick starter, engine starts normally! Stop it. Start it - wont start???

Anyone got any ideas?


Steve

[sinfull]

Battery !.....

[CookMySock]

Battery !.....Thats what I was thinking, but it starts perfectly well if left for an hour, and the battery is not even a year old, and it has done this once before (I thought it was just a flat battery then.) The battery terminal voltage DOES drop to 4V on cranking - a death knell for the battery for sure. Tomorrow I will swap the battery with a known-good one (going out for dinner tonight)

Steve

[Leyton]

My starter motor in my old holden done this when it was hot. Electricity does not conduct to well through hot wires, Perhaps it is a failing connection if it is not the battery ?

Try the bat from your other bike :)

[Mom]

You have a dud battery for sure. Just because it is not that old does not mean it is not U/S. Is this original that came with the bike? More and more I am hearing of new supplied consumable parts that have a less than "normal" life span.

[vifferman]

I thought you knew everything about everything? :confused:
Now I'm worried....

I've heard summat similar before, with the starter being faulty and sucking away the current.

Another common problem with many bikes is the charging system - presumably you've checked the connections in the charging circuit to ground and to the battery, and tested the output at idle, and at higher rpm to make sure the R/R is behaving itself?

[cowpoos]

thats just odd...is the battrey terminals tight?? earth earthing well??

Have you got a multi meter?

[p.dath]

I'm not mechnically minded, but I did have a funny problem with a car of mine once. Turned out to be the cable that transports the power from the battery to the starter motor. It had developed a high resistance, which made it difficult for the starter motor to pull sufficient power to start reliably. Took the mechanic ages to figure out.

[Macontour]

Check all the battery and electrical connections are tight.

[CookMySock]

Battery terminals are tight. Battery is a Yuasa, 6 months old, purchased from the bike shop - supposedly top quality.

It IS odd that the battery terminal voltage is only 11V with the bike running. It should be 13V, so either the battery has dropped a cell, or... what.. theres still plenty of power otherwise.. the bike ran well all day. Actually, it did give a slight but clear miss or two - just a wee stumble at low speed - it doesn't normally do that.

Tomorrow I will swap the battery for known good one.. Perhaps I should pull the battery out tonight and give it a zap on the charger overnight. I did a full three hours running on it, and it would still start the bike perfectly well, but just not when the engine is warm, where it completely refused.

Yeah I have a DC clampmeter that does almost anything. A tool that I could never be without now.


Steve

[cowpoos]

get battry voltage while off...and while on. and yeah...swap battrys if you can.

[Shaun P]

Battery terminals are tight. Battery is a Yuasa, 6 months old, purchased from the bike shop - supposedly top quality.

It IS odd that the battery terminal voltage is only 11V with the bike running. It should be 13V, so either the battery has dropped a cell, or... what.. theres still plenty of power otherwise.. the bike ran well all day. Actually, it did give a slight but clear miss or two - just a wee stumble at low speed - it doesn't normally do that.

Tomorrow I will swap the battery for known good one.. Perhaps I should pull the battery out tonight and give it a zap on the charger overnight. I did a full three hours running on it, and it would still start the bike perfectly well, but just not when the engine is warm, where it completely refused.

Yeah I have a DC clampmeter that does almost anything. A tool that I could never be without now.


Steve

Buy it a 1 way ticket back to Korea :eek:

[boomer]

Buy it a 1 way ticket back to Korea :eek:


Why waste even MORE $$$.. burn it then piss on it..!

[discotex]

Why waste even MORE $$$.. burn it then piss on it..!

Save your piss and let it burn

[boomer]

Save your piss and let it burn


I dont really have a use for MY piss bro.. im not bear Grills or what eva his name is !!!

[Pedrostt500]

A good battery, should sit around 13 volts when freshly charged, can be up to 14 volts, when the battery is dicharging under load ie lights on, or cranking over the engine, the battery should not drop bellow 12.5 volts, the esiest test we came up with was to buy a 100watt halogen 12v light bulb, hook a wire and aligator clip tp each terminal, fully charge your battery, with a mains powered battery charger, once battery has charged take a reading with a multimeter, take note of the voltage, hook up your halogen bulb, the voltage will drop reasonably rapidly at first and the after a while plato out, this plato should be at or above 12.5 volts, if the battery keeps dropping charge bellow 12.5 volts its time for a new battery. But if you battery has been in storage for some time, a few good recharges and discharges may revive it, obviously topping up the battery with disstilled water and not allowing it to dry out helps the life of the battery.
The halogen light bulb and multi meter are a good bit of cheap test kit to keep in your tool box.

[BMWST?]

bin the HID and Hot grips:jerry:Make sure the water level is good in the battery too

[YellowDog]

Steve mate, what you have described is precisely what starter motors do when they are on their way out.

Best advice: Only ever Park on hills OR get a quote on a new starter motor :)

[CookMySock]

Steve mate, what you have described is precisely what starter motors do when they are on their way out.

Best advice: Only ever Park on hills OR get a quote on a new starter motor :)yeah thats what I am thinking, bud. Brand new starter - US$85 + freight.

Steve

[scumdog]

Had a similar problem with a modified car once, battery (in good order) was in the boot.

Cold start was no problem, if it was slightly warmed up was still good, fully warmed up and the starter wouldn't spin the engine, (but even a very low-speed 'bump' start would kick it into life).
If it was left to cool off for 15-20 minutes and it would start - just.

Tried replacing the starter with a new reconditioned one - no difference.

Tried rebuilding THAT starter with new components - no difference

Tried fatter cables to earth and to the starter motor - minor improvement.

New bigger battery - happiness was mine, the car started hot or cold.

[sinfull]

battery !......

[erik]

Ride it home - one hour, and get the test meters out while the engine is still idling. Batt terminal volts 11v. No current flowing in the 12V batt plus red lead. 10-15A flowing in the Batt negative lead from the loom to the large chassis strap.


Is the alternator charging the battery? On the sv650 (and bandit) the test is to rev at 5000rpm, the voltage across the terminals should be between 13.5 and 15.0V (for a full battery) and if not to inspect the stator coil and reg/rec.

I don't think it's possible for current to be flowing into the battery but not out?

[breakaway]

It IS odd that the battery terminal voltage is only 11V with the bike running. It should be 13V, so either the battery has dropped a cell, or... what.. theres still plenty of power otherwise.. the bike ran well all day. Actually, it did give a slight but clear miss or two - just a wee stumble at low speed - it doesn't normally do that.


Doesn't that mean your alternator or reg/rec are poked? I had this problem with a CBR400RR that a friend bought. He had to get the alternator rewound, and that fixed it.

Even if your battery is fucked the bike should be pumping out power in an attempt to charge it right?

[CookMySock]

Right, now I don't mean to ignore everyones' comments, but here's what happened this morning ;

Pull cover off bike, check batt terminal voltage 11V, key in, choke, normal start, "whirrr.." no go. I figured it would do that.

Swap battery from another bike. Try starting BOTH bikes. BOTH bikes start normally!! Yep, both of them. Growl...

I shut down the donor bike and put its cover on.

Back the bike in question - now idling sweetly, I go over it with the test meters. Batt terminal rising, 12V ish, batt is taking about 1-3A from the charging circuit depending on revvs as expected, unplug hotgrips and batt (still charging, terminal voltage slowly rising) adds an amp or so off the charging current, as I expected.

Sigh, I shut the bike down, confused. And just for interest sake, try to immediately restart it, and "whirr.." same old fault is back (this is with the donor battery.)

Clamp meter goes on starter cable, hit starter, starter motor stalls, dash lights go out, batt terminal volts go down to 6V and meter hits 120-200A.

Fucked starter motor innit?

Steve

[Pussy]

Fucked starter motor innit?



Yes it is!

[FJRider]

The battery connections may be tight, but are they clean ??? Disconnect terminals, and pour a mixture of baking soda and boiling water over them (battery AND connections) ... reconnect and try again. Often connections are just not making good contact.

[CookMySock]

Battery connections that I can see are clean and tight, and passing nearly 200amps.

Just went and tried it right now - bike starts perfectly. Stop it. Try again - won't start.

Tomorrow the fairings come off and I check over the starter solenoid and cabling. If I find nothing, off comes the starter.


Steve

[Fatjim]

You've spilled ice cream in your starter button.

[The Stranger]

A good battery, should sit around 13 volts when freshly charged, can be up to 14 volts, when the battery is dicharging under load ie lights on, or cranking over the engine, the battery should not drop bellow 12.5 volts, the esiest test we came up with was to buy a 100watt halogen 12v light bulb, hook a wire and aligator clip tp each terminal, fully charge your battery, with a mains powered battery charger, once battery has charged take a reading with a multimeter, take note of the voltage, hook up your halogen bulb, the voltage will drop reasonably rapidly at first and the after a while plato out, this plato should be at or above 12.5 volts, if the battery keeps dropping charge bellow 12.5 volts its time for a new battery.

This IS step 1.
Follow a logical trouble shooting sequence.
Next step AFTER this one is to test the charging system.
None of this is expensive or difficult to test.

But you need to check both. If you don't your new or existing battery (if it is still ok) could be poked buy a dud charging system adding additional cost.

If you aren't getting 13 volts at just off idle and about 14.5 at say 5k you have a problem in your charging system.
Post back your results - if you want to resolve it.

If both check out then perhaps it is the starter motor.

[FJRider]

Keep battery ... biff bike ...

[CookMySock]

This IS step 1.A load-test, yes I know but I don't have a load tester. The battery works perfectly well in another bike, as I have posted.

A known-good battery from another bike does not fix it. The problem remains, and is identical regardless of which battery is fitted.


Follow a logical trouble shooting sequence.
Next step AFTER this one is to test the charging system.
None of this is expensive or difficult to test.

But you need to check both. If you don't your new or existing battery (if it is still ok) could be poked buy a dud charging system adding additional cost.

If you aren't getting 13 volts at just off idle and about 14.5 at say 5k you have a problem in your charging system. The charging current does seem a little lower than I expected, but I think it is a mistake to pursue a fault in the charging circuit just yet.

It is abundantly clear there is something amiss in the starting circuit. Two different batteries, one of them brand new, gives exactly the same result.

I found an article on korider, and it suggested that I might have a stuck or worn starter brush, so I think the starter can come off and be disassembled.


Steve

[warewolf]

Battery connections that I can see are clean and tight, and passing nearly 200amps.

Just went and tried it right now - bike starts perfectly. Stop it. Try again - won't start.We recently had to overhaul the starter in our 4wd. Sometimes, more and more often, it wouldn't turn the engine over. Roadservice fellah recorded 350A when it wasn't turning.

Many moons ago the starter in my Triumph got dirty contacts/bushes/whatever. Sometimes the starter wouldn't turn from the position it was in, usually on a cold morning or late at night (ie when battery was weakest). Put the bike in 6th gear, bump the rear wheel to turn the starter motor a little bit, then it would start normally. Again, starter clean-up fixed the issue.

[gwigs]

sounds like starter motor brushes are worn ..happened to a holden I owned.
It used to play up once warm..

[FJRider]

The charging current does seem a little lower than I expected, but I think it is a mistake to pursue a fault in the charging circuit just yet.

It is abundantly clear there is something amiss in the starting circuit. Two different batteries, one of them brand new, gives exactly the same result.



An auto electrician would probably be the best bet ... just to confirm where the problem lies. But I guess you already know that.

[CookMySock]

An auto electrician would probably be the best bet ... just to confirm where the problem lies. But I guess you already know that.My bet now, is it's bushes, brushes, and/or a commutator clean-up. I'll haul it apart (usually trivial) and then it's usually pretty obvious what the problem is. Then take the box of bits down to the auto electrician for parts.

I might try a car battery directly onto the starter with some jumper leads. If THAT doesn't work, then its pretty obviously the starter motor.

Steve

[FJRider]

My bet now, is it's bushes, brushes, and/or a commutator clean-up. I'll haul it apart (usually trivial) and then it's usually pretty obvious what the problem is. Then take the box of bits down to the auto electrician for parts.

I might try a car battery directly onto the starter with some jumper leads. If THAT doesn't work, then its pretty obviously the starter motor.

Steve

Had you thought it may be a fuel issue, if fuel isn't getting into the carbs fast enough ...

A fair bet of yours maybe, but before the teardown ... If you get the parts from him, I doubt if he would charge for testing ...

[CookMySock]

Had you thought it may be a fuel issue, if fuel isn't getting into the carbs fast enough ...

A fair bet of yours maybe, but before the teardown ... If you get the parts from him, I doubt if he would charge for testing ...No, it's nothing to do with fuel, UNLESS massive amounts of it are pooling in the combustion chamber and liquid-locking it.

Theres nothing complicated inside a starter motor. It has brushes and bearings. One of those two things will be stuffed.

I don't know what parts I need until I pull it apart. Starter brushes are just brushes - theres nothing scientific or model-specific about them. I just file them to the correct size and slide them in and screw them down. Trivial.

Bushes are a little more involved, but I bet they can get any size at all, and if they cant, then my mate with the lathe can make me some.

The hardest part by far is getting the fairings off without marking them or losing the screws, and stopping the oil running everywhere when I pull the starter motor out.

Steve

[vifferman]

I've heard summat similar before, with the starter being faulty and sucking away the current.
:whistle:

I wonder if it could be the starter motor, perhaps? <_<

[TripleZee Dyno]

No, it's nothing to do with fuel, UNLESS massive amounts of it are pooling in the combustion chamber and liquid-locking it.

Theres nothing complicated inside a starter motor. It has brushes and bearings. One of those two things will be stuffed.

I don't know what parts I need until I pull it apart. Starter brushes are just brushes - theres nothing scientific or model-specific about them. I just file them to the correct size and slide them in and screw them down. Trivial.

Bushes are a little more involved, but I bet they can get any size at all, and if they cant, then my mate with the lathe can make me some.

The hardest part by far is getting the fairings off without marking them or losing the screws, and stopping the oil running everywhere when I pull the starter motor out.

Steve

Going by your first post I would make sure the charging system is working properly before anything else.
11v volts at idle is way too low. Wont matter how good your starter motor is, 11v isnt a happening thing.
Current flow in the loom earth and nothing in the battery leads sorta points to the charge system being OK but between regulator and battery there is a problem.
Check o/p at regulator and compare with whats at the battery terminals.
Any more than .3-.5 v difference and you have a wiring fault
You want a minumum of 14v at the battery.
Do these tests at around 3-4000 rpm
Good batteries can "recover" a bit when given a rest, could be whats happening here
good luck

[cowpoos]

Going by your first post I would make sure the charging system is working properly before anything else.
11v volts at idle is way too low. Wont matter how good your starter motor is, 11v isnt a happening thing.
Current flow in the loom earth and nothing in the battery leads sorta points to the charge system being OK but between regulator and battery there is a problem.
Check o/p at regulator and compare with whats at the battery terminals.
Any more than .3-.5 v difference and you have a wiring fault
You want a minumum of 14v at the battery.
Do these tests at around 3-4000 rpm
Good batteries can "recover" a bit when given a rest, could be whats happening here
good luck
Yep...thats where I was heading with my thoughts...but I think if its not a doodgy earth or power wire to the starter which I think it is personally [from what he has described]...he's heading down the right track with the starter...

[CookMySock]

Going by your first post I would make sure the charging system is working properly before anything else.
11v volts at idle is way too low. Wont matter how good your starter motor is, 11v isnt a happening thing.Yes that 11V is the first thing that struck me as odd. Considering that is the first thing I checked, I probably should have stopped "diagnosing"(sic) there.

This morning first thing it wouldn't start, so I jumper lead it to the car - instant start. So I left the fairings on.

It took an hour or so on the automatic charger before I get a green "charged" light. Bike then starts perfectly, BUT when the engine is running the charger reverts to "charging" amber light, and goes back to green "charged" a few seconds after I kill the engine.


Current flow in the loom earth and nothing in the battery leads sorta points to the charge system being OK but between regulator and battery there is a problem.
Check o/p at regulator and compare with whats at the battery terminals.
Any more than .3-.5 v difference and you have a wiring fault
You want a minumum of 14v at the battery.
Do these tests at around 3-4000 rpm
Good batteries can "recover" a bit when given a rest, could be whats happening here.That's very interesting and useful observations. Thank you.

I will pull the sidecover off and check over the wiring. Perhaps there is a fuse in the charging circuit blown somewhere.

Steve

[CookMySock]

Ok stator output anomoly.

Pull plug from stator to rec/reg, and test ;

Phase to phase (any combination) 70V AC @5,000rpm. All good.

Phase to Phase ohms (engine stopped, any combination) , 1.2ohms ish. All good.

BUT it should be open-circuit any phase to ground, and it aint. It's only a few ohms.

Engine idling 2,000rpm ish, test ;

Phase 1 to frame ground, 30V AC ish
Phase 2 to frame ground, 30V AC ish
Phase 3 to frame ground, 3V AC ish !

Shorted phase 3 to ground inside the stator? Damn.

Is this why theres a 10amp current loop through the loom ground and the battery ground? Testing now to see if that current loop is DC or AC..... edit: there is about 10A AC flowing in the battery ground strap!

Pulled stator off ;

Phase 1 to frame ground 1.2 ohms
Phase 2 to frame ground 1.2 ohms
Phase 3 to frame ground 0.7 ohms

Short test meter leads - 0.5 ohms.

Stator looks like its been hot. Fark, who wound this?? it doesn't look right to me. Pic to follow. Looks like someone wound a bit then hit it with the hammer, then wound a bit more and hit it again, and so on. Geesh.


Steve

[Fatjim]

Phase 1 to frame ground, 30V AC ish
Phase 2 to frame ground, 30V AC ish
Phase 3 to frame ground, 3V AC ish !




Steve
I assume this is with all the plugs back in and not some hack to get the alternator supplying current.

I would guess the Reg/Rec is pulling down the voltage.

[The Stranger]

A load-test, yes I know but I don't have a load tester. The battery works perfectly well in another bike, as I have posted.

You have a head light.

The charging current does seem a little lower than I expected, but I think it is a mistake to pursue a fault in the charging circuit just yet.

It is abundantly clear there is something amiss in the starting circuit. Two different batteries, one of them brand new, gives exactly the same result.






Ok stator output anomoly.

Pull plug from stator to rec/reg, and test ;

Phase to phase (any combination) 70V AC @5,000rpm. All good.

Phase to Phase ohms (engine stopped, any combination) , 1.2ohms ish. All good.

BUT it should be open-circuit any phase to ground, and it aint. It's only a few ohms.

Engine idling 2,000rpm ish, test ;

Phase 1 to frame ground, 30V AC ish
Phase 2 to frame ground, 30V AC ish
Phase 3 to frame ground, 3V AC ish !

Shorted phase 3 to ground inside the stator? Damn.

Is this why theres a 10amp current loop through the loom ground and the battery ground? Testing now to see if that current loop is DC or AC..... edit: there is about 10A AC flowing in the battery ground strap!

Pulled stator off ;

Phase 1 to frame ground 1.2 ohms
Phase 2 to frame ground 1.2 ohms
Phase 3 to frame ground 0.7 ohms

Short test meter leads - 0.5 ohms.

Stator looks like its been hot. Fark, who wound this?? it doesn't look right to me. Pic to follow. Looks like someone wound a bit then hit it with the hammer, then wound a bit more and hit it again, and so on. Geesh.


Steve

What the fuck did I say? - There IS a clear logical sequence to follow.

[CookMySock]

I assume this is with all the plugs back in and not some hack to get the alternator supplying current.

I would guess the Reg/Rec is pulling down the voltage.No, that was with the rect/reg disconnected - there was no current flowing. Those are AC voltages with respect to the bike frame/chassis.

I've got the stator out. It's been hot for sure.

[Sparrowhawk]

I'd pull out the starter anyway, it's possible you've got two problems. The original fault you described does sound like the starter. What's it going to hurt by pulling it out & checking those brushes?

I had a starter motor that would "whirr" when the button was pushed, but not engage the flywheel properly. The solenoid was on it's way out, and once again, it was a fault that was more promenant when the starter was hot.

[CookMySock]

I'd pull out the starter anyway, it's possible you've got two problems. The original fault you described does sound like the starter. What's it going to hurt by pulling it out & checking those brushes? I had a starter motor that would "whirr" when the button was pushed, but not engage the flywheel properly. The solenoid was on it's way out, and once again, it was a fault that was more promenant when the starter was hot.Yeah I know that fault - where the starter spins freely but doesn't engage.. This engages and then stalls.. "whirr..........nuthin"

After leaving the charger on it it starts 100% every time now, and looking at the stator I'm persuaded I have found the immediate fault. I'll get a quote to get it rewound and also a second-hand one. Might even look at getting some wire and rewinding it myself.

Anyone like to comment on the stator continuity-fault-to-ground ? It should be isolated from ground shouldn't it ?


Steve

[TripleZee Dyno]

Yeah I know that fault - where the starter spins freely but doesn't engage.. This engages and then stalls.. "whirr..........nuthin"

After leaving the charger on it it starts 100% every time now, and looking at the stator I'm persuaded I have found the immediate fault. I'll get a quote to get it rewound and also a second-hand one. Might even look at getting some wire and rewinding it myself.

Anyone like to comment on the stator continuity-fault-to-ground ? It should be isolated from ground shouldn't it ?


Steve
stator is fukarude
coils/phases should be isolated from the frame/ground
Ken Cairns Electrical in Hamilton if you get stuck for a rewind.

cheers

[CookMySock]

stator is fukarude
coils/phases should be isolated from the frame/ground
Ken Cairns Electrical in Hamilton if you get stuck for a rewind.

cheersAwesome, thank you mate. Thats a cheap repair. Theres a crowd over here that does rewinds too "GT rewinds", I'll get a price from both - tempted to have a go at it myself too. Anyone know where to get magnet wire from to rewind this?

Unfortunately, it looks like the rect/reg has sucked the kumara also. I wonder if one went first and took the other with it.

Steve

[CookMySock]

Okies I baked the stator in the oven today, and tried to yank the windings off it. Hrm, not very successful, so I took it to my mate with the lathe and he is gunna nick all the windings so I can just peel them off. Looks like theres 30 turns on each tooth.

I found some wire locally, so I go to pick that up tomorrow, and get the stator back, then all I need is some epoxy and I am ready to rewind. Hopefully all ready for the weekend.

Steve

[CookMySock]

My mate with the lathe chickened out - "it might come out of the chuck and munt itself."

Sooo I take to the bastard with the sidecutters and long nose pliers and rip shit out of it. AN hour later - all wire gone.. I quick buff up with the file and shez ready to rewind.

Before I ripped all the windings off, I sat it down on the table and made a diagram. It's pretty straight forward, but its definitly something you should do before you cut it up, or else you are in the dark.

Tomorrow we rewind!!

Steve

[CookMySock]

Big success today. I rang around and drew a blank on a local supply of rewinding wire, until I found <a href="http://maps.google.com/maps?oe=UTF-8&sourceid=navclient&gfns=1&um=1&ie=UTF-8&q=whakatane+electrical+contractors&fb=1&split=1&view=text&latlng=17979696910997114630">Whakatane Electrical Contractors.</a> Steve (owner) turns out to be a biker (GSXR thou, DRZ-400M) and a trackday junkie, hehe. Good shit! :Punk:

So Steve and Adrian get me all set up, and point me at a bench and vise and tell me to go for it - legends! They were grateful to help, and I was grateful for it too! These guys were curious to watch work though, FAAAAAAR more thorough and meticulous than what I could ever be.. by a wiiiiide margin, :whistle: If you want any electrical motor rebuilds done, DEFINITELY take it to these guys, and by the size of the machinery they had in there, no job would be too large.

The stator had to tidied up with the file to remove any nasty shitty bits first. The old shellac is as hard as glass, you can't use your hands on it, unless you want splinters from hell. So I filed all the old shellac smooth.

So I rewind the fucker, and slap it on the insulation test meter, phase 1 - pass! phase 2, pass! phase 3 FAIL! WTF? Fault to chassis. Gak-gak, gak gak-gak-gak!!!

<img src="http://www.marsattacksfan.com/gareth.gif">

I go home and start pulling windings off until I the fault vanishes. After only three windings undone the fault is gone, so I slather that pole with a strip of <a href="http://www.pleo.com/dupont/nomex_fab.htm">nomex tape</a> given to me by the lads from WEC and re-rewind it and re-test. Pass, pass, pass! whew!

Now it just needs a coat of shellac and a bake'n in the oven and we're good to go! Tomorrow.

Steve

[CookMySock]

I thought about painting the stator with epoxy and heating it in the oven. I don't like it. If that epoxy softens in the hot engine oil, it will pump glue all through the engine. So back to town I go, and the Adrian dips it in the shellac tank and boofs it in the oven for a bake'n. Turns out he has been rewinding motors for 20+ years. I pickup new gasket for the cover from undies - they get one overnight! Bewdy.

Tomorrow I'll boof it back together.

Steve

[scumdog]

I thought about painting the stator with epoxy and heating it in the oven. I don't like it. If that epoxy softens in the hot engine oil, it will pump glue all through the engine. So back to town I go, and the Adrian dips it in the shellac tank and boofs it in the oven for a bake'n. Turns out he has been rewinding motors for 20+ years. I pickup new gasket for the cover from undies - they get one overnight! Bewdy.

Tomorrow I'll boof it back together.

Steve

There's waay too much 'boofing' going on here....:shit:

[NDORFN]

Have you at any stage of this saga regretted buying a Hyosung?

[CookMySock]

Have you at any stage of this saga regretted buying a Hyosung?The only time I thought better of it, was after all the abuse I received in this forum regarding it. Other than that, I really enjoy them. If I had 13-20k to just flick on a bike, perhaps I'd have a nicer one. But I don't.

Steve

[CookMySock]

Ok I got me a can of Gasket Remover from Repco. There is a big red warning on the tin about how quickly it removes paint. They are NOT JOKING AROUND when they use the word "instant." Be careful with this shit. Anyway, it took the gasket off like it was never there. Good stuff.

Cleaned up, terminals soldered up, wrapped with high-temp tape, clamped back into place, all ready to be bolted down. Hehe.. :done:

Summary;

It sounds like an easy job, but its really time consuming - I spent days and days running around trying to sort it. I'm glad to have done it myself, because I'm like that, and because I'm cheap (read - broke.)

It wasn't expensive - I think the tin of gasket remover cost more than the copper wire. It has to be dunked in shellac and then oven-baked. You could use your home oven. You need a roll of Nomex Tape.

If you have to rewind your stator, I would say go for it. If you do, and you get stuck, post here or PM me.


Steve

[scumdog]

The only time I thought better of it, was after all the abuse I received in this forum regarding it.

Steve

Huh, wait until you get a Harley......

[Max Preload]

Thats what I was thinking, but it starts perfectly well if left for an hour, and the battery is not even a year old, and it has done this once before (I thought it was just a flat battery then.) The battery terminal voltage DOES drop to 4V on cranking - a death knell for the battery for sure. Tomorrow I will swap the battery with a known-good one (going out for dinner tonight)

Steve

Sounds like a BESCO battery.

[CookMySock]

Sounds like a BESCO battery.hehe, naw it was a near-new Yuasa. It was just flat.

Steve

[CookMySock]

Roite, all bolted back on - bolts have grease on this time.. WHY do people assemble things with NO FUCKING GREASE on the threads.. grr. Two bolts replaced - damaged when removing them.

I got a new yamaha regulator for $160. I had to change the plastic connector housing on the stator connector, and I replaced the terminals on the regulated output wires with spades.

Quick stator-to-ground isolation test - hi Z - pass!

Shove plugs in, start, and 14.4V on the battery! Sorted!


Steve

[TripleZee Dyno]

Roite, all bolted back on - bolts have grease on this time.. WHY do people assemble things with NO FUCKING GREASE on the threads.. grr. Two bolts replaced - damaged when removing them.

I got a new yamaha regulator for $160. I had to change the plastic connector housing on the stator connector, and I replaced the terminals on the regulated output wires with spades.

Quick stator-to-ground isolation test - hi Z - pass!

Shove plugs in, start, and 14.4V on the battery! Sorted!


Steve
Good job
And its good to a see diy isnt dead yet
cheers

[CookMySock]

Many thanks for your experience and assistance also!

In other news, the bike wont start this morning. Battery inidicates "weak" on the load tester, but the mechanic says "should still start the bike."

Not quite square one, but..

Will swap (five year old korean) battery for a known good one, on monday.. sigh. Got an adult teaching course all weekend.

Steve

[CookMySock]

Right, it faulted again today, so I pulled the starter off and ripped it apart.

Two little bolts and a thump with the wooden hammer-handle and off it comes. Two more little screws and its all apart on the bench. Piece of piss.

Inside it looked like a new one. The only thing I could see was the main terminal was in a strange position, and perhaps it might short to the frame when it warms up, so I turned it around.

So I put a drip of oil in the bushes and checked the brushes for length and free movement and put it all back together again. Bike starts perfectly.

Looks like the plastic stays off for a while.

Steve

[crazyhorse]

Buy a real bike LOL - Jap ones have no problems!:buggerd: