PLEASE CUT AND PASTE THE ENTIRE POST! This will be the last posting for the week on this topic. It has been a very comprehensive coverage of the basics without getting too technical, but sufficiently detailed to allow you to take this technical knowledge with you to your street, track or race bike. A personal thank you to everyone that took the time and good conscience to cut and paste the information into forums globally for the benefit of our community at large, so here’s the last ...
Day 4: tire pressure affecting chassis balance No need to preach about carcass temps but let's take a closer look at the effects of pressure on the carcass. The cold pressure will ideally grow 5-7psi while on the track or 3-5psi on the street. What does that growth do to the contact patch size? How does that affect rake and trail and weight transfer? Small bikes (GP250, 400, 650 twins) use very high corner speed and therefore load the outside and sidewall tire heavily ...
Day 3: Carcass dynamics Have you ever sat on the tire you are buying to see if the carcass will hold your body weight? Have you ever pushed on the tire to see how it will flex? Have you ever pulled on the sidewalls to see how much they will deflect? Have you ever measured the new tires circumference once it is fully inflated? Have you ever mixed brands between front and rear tires? Street/road tires ...
Day 2: What do you use to inflate your tires? I figured that would create an instant emotional response to get your attention! Street riders will get air from anywhere usually. Track riders from the track day service provider and racers from either their own supply or from the race tire service brand provider at the event. Air: Has a percentage of water vapor in it naturally. When we get compressed air it may have a lot more water vapor in it. ...
As this information is critical to ALL riders, please cut and paste all this information into forums, websites and rider groups that you belong to so we can make all riders safer. That's my mission and has been since 95, so every day I will be looking at the share numbers to see YOU are doing your bit for OUR community at large to save lives and reduce injuries. Tire carcass heat: As many of you posted from all over the world, you are all shooting in the dark on tire carcass ...
CLEANING AND LUBING CABLES THOTTLE CABLES These cable ends are normally hidden inside the throttle housing for protection from the elements and are often coerced to move through gentle bends of metal tubing attached to the throttle housing and then inside the housing while attached to the throttle tube. The push and pull throttle cables go through the same range of motion so in order to keep the movement smooth, you should regularly be lubing the cables and then cleaning ...
• Adjust throttle cables Adjusting cables while somewhat simple in terms of mechanical tasks, is often not a simple operation when you look at all the adjustments. What? There’s more than one thing to adjust? Throttle cables: All bikes come with a push and pull throttle cable system. The pull is obvious to allow fuel to get to the engine in increasing amounts allowing the bike to accelerate by pulling the throttle grip counter clockwise. The push cable ...
CLEANING & LUBING CLUTCH CABLES There’s a common misconception that this cable doesn’t need much in the way of cleaning and lubing. Nothing could be further from the truth! Like the throttle cables, this needs regular inspection and the use of cable lube and some high temp grease for the exposed cable ends as the steel cable runs inside an outer cable but it bends due to cable routing creating friction and wear internally and externally (especially on ...
Updated 12th May 2013 at 10:55 by davemosstuning (missed text)