snodpete

The slowest NZ traverse ever. [1]

In January, pillion partner Ruth and I set off on the Wee-Strom to get to Cape Reinga, somewhere I had never been which made it a suitable goal for our first decent motorcycle trip. Yesterday we returned from Bluff, completing a New Zealand traverse of sorts. Here are some memories of that ride.

Between Westport and Nelson we encountered what proved to be the wettest weather of the whole northern trip, made more intense being stuck behind a Talley's truck in the upper Buller Ggorge. Lesson: Cordura is only sort-of waterproof. Next day we rode to the ferry via Linkwater and met the usual handful of bikers queuing and ready to chat and compare travel stories. Particularly impressive was the 72 year old farmer returning north after a 3 day enduro event in Marlborough! It was my second time with a bike on the ferry but the first with the DL; there were plenty of strops (plus our own) and soon we were secured and off to a possie in the upper deck. The ferry was pretty full so the proportion of 'poor sailors' high - nearer Welly the crew came around with sick bags and ice which only seemed to encourage the vomiters.. It was a wee bit nasty for the final 30 mins with a southerly roll caressing us into harbour. After docking we were keen to leave all that unnecessary bile behind and continued north via the motorway (a novelty to we 'Coasters!) to our friends in Palmerston North.

Next day had a vague plan of getting to Whanganui and then up the river road; having little idea what that road would be like we left destination ideas open. Apart from a forecourt incident in which Ruth's helmet fell from the bike scratching the visor - she was not impressed - the ride to the beginning of the river road was OK: some nice curvy sections near Whanga-town - but the River Road itself was a highlight. We spent some time exploring Jerusalem; at Pipiriki we arrived in time to witness a haka performed in waka, the sounds magnified to spine-chilling intensity by the close gorge walls. The road out to Raetihi was the more challenging gravel part; we got in there mid afternoon so continued on past National Park, checking out The Chateau in passing, finally checking in to the shabby but characterful Waitomo Caves Hotel. Ruth was much taken with the frayed and stained furnishings proudly hanging on in reflection of more prosperous times. [NEXT]