Gremlin's Tall Stories

As Toto and I did last year in 2009, we decided to do a little tour again this year. After a fantastic experience at Wanganui, we knew it would be on the list again. The tour follows a basic format. Leave Christmas Day, in Wanganui for Boxing Day, and then spend a few days covering some of the country. Last year was 1 day to Mahia (just south of Gisborne) and then a 2nd day back to Auckland via the East Cape, so only 4 days in total.

This year, we would aim for a week, so within a month or so of Christmas, out came the maps, a bit of planning and our accommodation booked:
Day 1: Auckland to Wanganui (via West Cape)
Day 2: In Wanganui, watching the racing
Day 3: Wanganui to Taupo, via The Forgotten Highway and SH41
Day 4: In Taupo, watching the racing at Taupo Racetrack, or whatever else we wanted to do
Day 5: Taupo to Rotorua, going around the lake clockwise to Turangi and Tokoroa, then over to Rotorua, then some luging in the afternoon.
Day 6: Day Trip to Gisborne and back
Day 7: Rotorua to Auckland, probably via SH22
All up, around 2000km

Last year, Toto initiated the trip, and with no-one else crazy enough to be in his company, I agreed, and with my KTM, led him down some “shortcuts” (as I do). This did lead to an unplanned fun trip on gravel 600m above sea level near Gisborne, but he brings it up so often he must have really enjoyed it (Ok… so the distance of 20km was used 3 times )

Instead of inflicting pain on Toto on the KTM, this time I would be 2-up with my girlfriend on the back, and borrowing my boss’ blackbird with givi luggage racks. Much more suited to 2-up travel, and the only other bike fitted with GPS power cables (two hornets don’t need anything like that).

Toto ended up getting the week AFTER New Years off… much to his dismay, so he was out of the trip. I did promise to keep him regularly updated with awesome accounts of our trip, but this wasn’t well received for some reason?

The days before Christmas get filled with work, and before I know it, I’m knocking off at 6.30pm on Christmas Eve, home, then straight out the door for a dinner and not much is done afterwards.

Day 1 – 25/12
Saturday morning is spent packing, and true to form, we only get away after 12pm. My boss and I had already set up the blackbird’s suspension to what we thought it should be, but a quick test in the driveway fully loaded, and it was clear it wasn’t hard enough. 3 turns of preload on the rear, and off for gas. Exiting the driveway, mmm, the rear shock is still way too soft, so at the gas station the pressures are checked and another 3 turns of preload are added.

I’d already decided to modify the route, as leaving this late, it was not a good idea to add the extra 100km by doing West Cape, so it was going to be straight down SH1 until Ngaruawahia (stopped and added the 7th turn of preload), then the back roads through Te Kuiti, Taumarunui (final stop for one more turn of preload) and down through the Paraparas to Wanganui.

We stopped in Te Kuiti for a quick bite to eat, and finally started to see all the bikes heading down, with a couple in front of us, and a few more behind. At Taumarunui, it was just a stop for suspension, and we passed the bikers from Te Kuiti. I was surprised by the handling of the blackbird, remarking it was handling the extra weight well indeed, but this changed when we headed into the really nice twisty section of SH4. Suddenly, that nice flowing movement of the more open roads was gone, replaced by a heavily laden bike and trying to navigate sharp corners. On the KTM, a quick flick and we would be through, but a very different story on the blackbird.

50km out of Wanganui, I had to stop on the road side. Arms and arse were hurting and the pillion wasn’t comfortable either. The blackbird had a different seating position to the KTM, and the additional weight was extra work. Coupled with carrying a pillion meant I couldn’t move around as much as normal, so my normal habit of 1000km a day was certainly not going to happen. I did expect not to do the same distance, but I thought I would be sweet, and we’d travel distances the pillion was comfortable with… no… we got sore at the same time. A few bikes passed, and were given the thumbs up.

Checking into Wanganui to the same accommodation (Anndion Lodge) as last year made it easy, and same as last year, The Grand was open for dinner on Christmas Day. When you know things like this, it’s easier than racing around trying to find something. I could also swear I had the same main as last year… should have tried something else, but the guy behind the bar recommended it

Day 2 – 26/12
Up nice and late around 9 or 10am, relaxing start to the day, and then a nice walk into town to watch the racing. Action packed racing, it turned out they were way behind schedule, but a nice change to walk around the track, do whatever you felt like, when you felt like (especially like when it was hot, you could tootle along and get an icecream), instead of being tied to one corner all day (ie, when marshalling). Later in the day there were a few decent incidents at Turn 1, with Budgen and Cole, along with others, having a premature end to their days.

I was amazed to see Stroud pull a victory wheelie and then stoppie between turns 1 and 2 after the second superbike race I think, because he hardly ever does them. So amazed in fact, my camera stay in my hands… off, which made me rather annoyed.

With the day of racing over, it was another stroll back to the lodge, except the pace was quickened when there appeared to be an odd fellow following us. Back at the motel, during a little lie down (after the strenuous activities for the day) we decided we needed dinner, and with it still being extremely hot and not wanting to walk any more, I decided to be a squid, so rode into town in shorts, jandals and helmet and jacket. The jacket was only because I knew it would get colder on the return trip to the lodge (which it did). This time it was breakers for dinner, and I had a roast of the day. Ange had lamb shanks.

Back at the lodge I pulled out the laptop and we went through our photos for the day, with plenty being out of focus, or chopping something off, but still some great ones in amongst the average ones.

Day 3 – 27/12
Had to be out by the standard 10am, so up at 0830 ish, packed, and down the road to the petrol station. Mileage wasn’t working out too bad, around 280-300km to 18-19L. A bite to eat at the servo, helmets cleaned, and out onto the boring stretches to Stratford. Knowing cops love the area, the speed limit was religiously obeyed, bar the odd overtake. A Mitsubishi and a van were eager to reach their destination, so I never bothered to overtake, catching up now and then when they got stuck behind traffic.

Stratford was gas time and another little break. I was finding 125km to be about right, then a quick stretch was in order to get the blood flowing, and then a proper stop at the end of the tank. Ange had never been through The Forgotten Highway, hence why we were in the area. Beautiful as always, even the weather was playing ball, bar the melted tar in some areas.

I found it a strange and unfamiliar feeling to desire the more flowing corners over the really tight and twisty stuff, except the blackbird was quite clear on which it preferred. The run through the Forgotten Highway, back through Taumarunui (second time in 3 days) and on to Turangi was a smooth one, with very little traffic and great weather.

Turning back onto SH1 at Turangi I found where all the traffic had been hiding, and like hand in hand, the cops. Did the odd overtake, but very wary for cops lurking. Several cars were travelling under the speed limit, holding everyone up, but especially around the lake, there is bugger all place to pass. A mind-numbingly slow and boring trip into Taupo, complete with drivers having no idea where they are going.

After checking into the backpackers, (a very nice one, where you got your own fridge, bathroom, modern too) Blackcurrant Backpackers, we went for a walk (yeah, another one… never walked this much in all my life) down to the supermarket, and it was there that Gremlin fell in love. So many lovely foods, all needing to be eaten, tis a devil’s place, I swear it. The prices are reasonable too! I could buy 4 Bundaberg for the price of one in a pub. Crazy! Fruit juice was $2.90 for one, $3.00 for 2. No way in hell was I going to pay 10c less for half I guess it goes without saying that I do not spend a lot of time in supermarkets, or shopping malls for that matter.

Taking our purchases back to the backpackers, we then headed out for a…. you guessed it… walk, around the town, to see what was available for dinner. Ange knew of a takeaways, so after a few streets of hunting it out, we eventually found it. I had a combination rice that was so big, I ate half and kept the rest for the following evening.

Bad weather was due to hit the country the following day, and the weather was already turning. Returning to the backpackers with dinner, we ate, and then I put a tie down around the blackbird to a pole, to make sure it didn’t fall over in the night.

Day 4 – 28/12
The following morning the front passing over the country was in full swing, but the blackbird was content snuggling up to the pole. With the crappy weather there wasn’t much motivation to get moving, as it was planned to be a quiet day. Bit of breakfast, then I spent a couple of hours working. Around midday we decided we should see if the racing at Taupo was still on, so rode the few km down the road to the track. The track was certainly doing it’s best impression of a pond and the odd rider could be seen pottering around. When enquiring at the gate, they were charging $10 entry each, so given there was half a day left, pissing with rain and really we were just going to catch up with a few racers, we thought it wasn’t worth it.

We headed back to the motel, and after initially putting our feet up again (really tiring you know, all this holiday stuff) we decided we should walk around town and get some lunch. Most of Taupo had decided this was a good idea, so the shops and cafes were doing a roaring business. Finding the only cinema Taupo had, nothing worthwhile was screening until the early evening, so back to the backpackers we went.

Shortly after 6pm we headed back to the cinema and saw Gullivers Travels, which turned out to be very enjoyable, starring Jack Black and Amanda Peet, along with others like Billy Connolly. Afterwards, a quick stop at the remarkable supermarket to get more great priced food things for Ange’s dinner, and I heated up my leftovers and then we called it a night.

Day 5 – 29/12
This was a short day travel wise, only Rotorua, but we would head south from Taupo, through Turangi, up the western side of Lake Taupo to Tokoroa, then south and across to Rotorua. If we got there in the early to mid-afternoon it would leave us plenty of time to go luging.

I continued to have cereal, milk and yoghurt for breakfast, which was far better than the pie in Wanganui. We left around 10.30am and stopped in at Turangi for Ange to experience what I consider to be one of the best bakeries around, with great food and awesome prices. A chunk of carrot cake, normally $4 or more in Auckland, but in Turangi, $2.30.

Leaving Turangi we passed through Tokaanu, taking SH41 and SH32 round the western side of Lake Taupo, over the dam at Whakamaru to Tokoroa. A quick toilet stop and then back south along SH1. Ange was wondering why our pace had slowed a touch, but had the question answered by the folks I was keen not to chat to. Within a few km of Tokoroa a marked cop car headed the other way, and shortly after that, piles of traffic. Turning onto SH30, normal transmission continues. No cops, very little traffic, and a much nicer road to ride on.

Nearing Rotorua we turn onto SH5 to enter town, and run straight into traffic. I definitely prefer being in the country, or at least, in towns where tourists aren’t Checked into the backpackers and hauled the luggage off the bike. Unfortunately, I then settled into some work much to the annoyance of Ange, who wanted to go luging. It didn’t go according to plan, so 3 hours later, the problems were on their way to being sorted.

Accidentally left the GPS behind in the haste to get some luging in, which meant guessing the general direction of the hill, and ending up down a bunch of streets that wouldn’t let you go this way or that. Ignored some of the restrictions and found our way there eventually. It’s the first time I have been to the Rotorua luge in 5 years, if not 10 (the intermediate track was a new addition when I went the second time). They have built a second start point to the three tracks, along with a swing and some other stuff.

We had purchased fives rides each, one scenic and two each of intermediate and advanced, so started on the new launch area first. The mandatory first ride down the scenic was slightly alarming. Gone was the full face helmet, gloves, pants and strong brakes couple to lots of power. Replacing it was a tiny ill handling 3 wheeler intent on killing me, with horrible road holding and no power measurable on a chart.

Since we had ridden there, I at least had jeans, cordura jacket and bike boots. The first ride was definitely chalk and cheese with a well setup bike. Replacing the helmet was some sort of fancy colander masquerading as a helmet to meet safety requirements. Even efforts to secure it properly were in vain, so onwards as a normal tourist I guess. The ride was bouncy and rough over the concrete surface (like sandpaper on skin if it helps to think about it), probably because there wasn’t any suspension.

I quickly discovered it was sort of like being on the road, with most people unable to control the suitcases they were on. It was only later in the day I actually read the rules, perhaps that thing about going slow on the scenic meant something. It also said no racing on any track… I don’t think a lot read that one The intermediate and advanced weren’t too bad, except still a few thinking they were quick, and simply getting in the way instead. I mean honestly… someone needed to teach a couple of Asian dudes that braking mid corner in a fast sweeping corner isn’t cool when you don’t have brake lights. After almost running one off the road a couple of times, I was glad for a fork, and chose the other one to them. It merged with the advanced, and I overtook another cart that was on the advanced, right before the tunnel, cart swaying as I was going a bit too quick

By the last couple of runs, concerns about safety were gone, I’d seen two guys collide, and with one backwards, they both slid off the track, laughing as they went. I’d had the cart up on two wheels countless times, and had the front locked into plenty of corners. Highly entertaining and thoroughly recommended. They have doubled the capacity by adding a second chair lift so the queues are far smaller and it translates to less time in queues, more on the tracks. We were in and out in less than 2 hours, but it was later in the day.

There was a small takeaways right around the corner from the backpackers, so this was raided for dinner, and then we joined a couple of guys watching the matrix movie on the communal telly.

Day 6 – 30/12
Up around 8.30am and some breakfast, a day trip to Gisborne is the plan. It will be a relatively long day, as I had already mentioned that having a pillion on definitely made long distances in the order of 4 figures not possible. At 550km ish, this was a decent day in the seat.

Easing out of Rotorua, round the lakes, the weather was stunning. In fact, I was enjoying the weather, the views etc, I forgot I didn’t have an audio feed reminding me of an upcoming turn, so shortly after overtaking a car, I missed the turn, until I looked the GPS. Doh… a quick u-turn shortly had me behind the car I had previously overtaken

The ride through SH2 was beautiful. A little tar was melting and naturally more traffic than the back roads I had been using the previous days, but leap frogging the odd car when possible had us making good time.

Gisborne. Wow… I should have known better. On the outskirts we hit traffic. The city centre was almost at a standstill, cars and people everywhere. Temperature was high, probably around 30 degrees, and being stuck in traffic in full gear wasn’t pleasant. I went around the side streets, back onto the main street, looking for a nice place for lunch and/or a park. We came across a motorcycle area… got to love the council for putting a few in, cheers guys

On foot, we eventually found a roast place, so had a bite to eat, watching the world go by. Mental note, unless you’re going to Gisborne for the music events that happen over the Christmas New Year period, stay the hell away, as there are just too many people.

We didn’t bother walking around… too hot, too many people. We got back on the bike, and once back up to open road speeds the gear was venting properly and we could start feeling cool again. The trip to Rotorua was uneventful, passing some cars, then when stopping for a stretch mid tank range and getting passed by the cars again.

We got back around 6pm, so roughly 9-10 hours on the road, not too bad, and both of us were rather knackered. We headed out for a walk to get some food, back to the backpackers, watched some of the Princess Diaries on the TV with other backpackers, then bed.

Day 7 – 31/12
The trip home was finally upon us. Out of the backpackers just after 10am and key deposit retrieved, the trip was going to be a reasonably boring one, I was had to meet my boss, who was travelling south, and he needed the data stick I’d been using. The initial plan was to meet him in Tirau, but I hadn’t heard from him in the morning, which meant he probably hadn’t left Auckland.

It was a sedate and somewhat boring trip to Tirau down SH5, with some traffic, so I made sure to remain calm and relaxed, and just pass when safe, as it was less than an hour to Tirau. Reaching Tirau, and a phone call, he was just leaving Auckland, but instead of coming direct, he had to go via Whatawhata. This was bad news. The easiest way to go to Whatawhata was straight up SH1.

For the second time in my life I went through the bypass in Hamilton (last time my tyre was showing the metal strands… in Tokoroa, in the middle of the night), before turning down SH23, the road to Raglan. Unfortunately, the good bits of the road are beyond Whatawhata. Another phone call, and he’s in the Bombays.

Ngaruawahia is just up the road (literally), so we head there, but there is no way I want to continue doing all these boring roads all the way home, so we wait at the BP for the handover. Half an hour later, all is good, so I give Ange the choice of an easy route home, or SH22. She’s never done SH22, so her decision is easy.

Unfortunately, in hindsight, it was my fault I didn’t override the decision and head up one. The bike had been well behaved all trip, but heading up SH22 I had 3 points where the bike slid on melted tar. I really should have known better for that road. The worst was losing the front (remembering all the luggage, 2up, etc) tipping through what is usually an easy corner, then seeing the liquid tar. The front washed out, I corrected and having just regained control, Ange reacted and I had to do it all over again. Still, we never challenged the centre line, so a reasonable outcome.

I definitely found the bike too heavy for the road, with the melted tar at the point where it was semi-ok, unless it was a heavy bike that punched through it, shifting it all around. At Pukekawa I had had enough of the increased risk and opted for Mercer and going along the nice proper surface called the moronway.

Back home we unpacked and I weighed the luggage. The panniers were 20kg together, the top box almost 20kg and the tank bag was 3kg. No wonder I found the bike heavy huh?

I’ll undoubtedly do the trip to Wanganui again next year (it’s just too good to miss), but most likely on my own bike, so I don’t feel quite so naked without radar at that time of the year, and I can explore gravel roads a bit more.