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Three months around Europe

Riding around Europe Post 4 Pamplona to Santiago De Compostela

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Who ever wrote the song about sunny Spain had never travelled their Atlantic coast in late May. I have had virtually all four seasons . This is not a whinge about the weather , just an observation.

I stayed in Pamplona two days and on my last night I witnessed the most fantastic electrical storm I had seen in decades. Huge sheets of lightning, illuminating the backdrop of the Pyrenees. Then darkness as a huge rain front approached. I double pegged my tent and ran extra guy lines tied to bushes moved my excess gear under an unoccupied caravan and parked my bike in the lee of the toilets.

The four other tents around me were watching my efforts, but were obviously happy to retain the status quo. When the first rain hit I was in my tent and ready for the deluge. And deluge it was. Luckily I was on a slight rise and the water ran away from me. The wind hit , the rain was like a weather bomb and I heard shouts and tents ripping. For the next two hours I tried to read above the rain but I couldn't so I stuck in my ear plugs and slept.

The next morning it was clear and when I poked my head out I was surrounded by large craters of water. There were no other tents. They had been blown out and the occupants spent the night in the toilet block.

I then decided to head for Bilbao and the famed Guggenhiem museum. But it was closed when I got there , so I headed on for Santander and found a nice camp in the hills. Santandar is a town with ambition, with only 200,000 inhabitants it has four museums and an underground rail system.

The next day , it was off to tour the Picos National Park. Riding through here you appreciate how geologically young NZ is. I cut through a 200m deep gorge that went for 25km, climbed up to the top of a 2500 m col and had the most wonderful 360 degree view of the Ocean, plains and surrounding mountains.

This park has provided archeologists with huge information on primitive man . Neanderthals roamed here- and who can blame them . With 70 beaches and two commercial ski areas close by , they had as wonderful opportunity to get the work life balance correct.

I then followed the Pilgrim trail to Santiago de Compostela. The road has plenty of pensions, hostel and camps for travellers and the Galicians are naturally hospitable and warm.

Spain is under huge debt and unemployment hovers in the high teens. But there seemed little evidence- the shops I saw were busy, the people well dressed , the beer and petrol were cheaper than NZ. There seemed little stress and the drivers in both town, motorway and B road were courteous, careful and skilful. Perhaps closing most businesses from 2 till 5 every day, having a late evening meal and a Sunday where everything, except restaurants , closes is not a bad lifestyle choice. Munyana anyone.

I intend to spend the day visiting the famous cathedral here in Santiago De
Compostela,, try out a Tapas bar near the camp and generally practice a bit of Munyana .

Till next time

Safe Riding.

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  1. gijoe1313's Avatar
    Finally getting around to reading all your lovely ride reports. Marvelous!