Three months around Europe

Crete. I intended to spend only a few days on this historic island but like many islands it has a way of sneaking up on you and delaying your departure. I found a nice hotel, with a pool, near the beach, safe parking for the bike and wifi.

New Zealanders have some status on Crete. The exploits of the NZ Forces and the 28th Maori Battalion are well known and it was here that Upham won the first of his Victoria Crosses. The 10 day battle was unique for several reasons : It was the first time paratroops were used as a main fighting force and the first time the Germans faced a hostile civilian population. One of the heroes of the conflict was a NZ gunner, Prentice who came back to Crete after being evacuated to lead a guerrilla band. He was eventually killed and his grave on the western end of the Island is looked after diligently by the youngsters from a local school.

It is also the home of Patrick Leigh Fermor, himself a guerrilla fighter and latterly probably one of the great, insightful travel writers. His books are worth reading.

I made several bike trips into the interior and the ride through the tough, dry mountains from the southern coast to Iralko stands out.

I visited the New Zealand war cemetry at Sudo Bay. It is an idyllic spot, nudging out into the harbour , surrounded by olive groves and shadowed by hills that some of the cemetery’s residents would have fought over and died trying to retain or capture. Little touches of New Zealand are present with the flax at the end of each row of graves and blue flowered hebes scattered among the graves.
No matter how detached, you cannot help feeling moved and emotional. I certainly was. The setting, the New Zealand plants, the ages of the soldiers, their names . Names which even today jump out from local papers and reflect the many countries which settled New Zealand: English, Welsh, Scottish, Irish, Dalmatian and Polynesian.

The main battle field was initially Maleme airport and the NZ Commander , though a combination of poor intelligence, exhaustion and inexperience lost it. Had he ordered a counter attack, the Germans would have been defeated. A view ,one junior officer after 70 years of silence, has supported . I also note there was a controversy surrounding the visit of Crete veterans to mark the 70th anniversary of the battle. In my view, just support the visit to the hilt and hopefully some of these soldiers, who went through one of the most hellish battles of the war, have the opportunity to lay some ghosts to rest in their final years.

I always like to read the visitors book at these places and the most moving comment was from an 11 year old from the Waikato. She wrote “ Thank you Crete for giving my countrymen a lovely place to rest.” Yes, thank you Crete.

Maleme Airport is now the home of the Greek Special forces and the Greeks have a reputation for touchiness as far as their defence installations are concerned as tensions with Turkey are never far below the surface and they also have some ratbag nations to their North.

I thought about asking for permission to visit, but was told by the local taverna owner they don't allow this. This after all is the home of the men who would have stormed Demos's hijacked aircraft and shoved his considerable bulk out the door onto the airport tarmac. You don't mess with boys who can fling singing whales around.

The most popular big bike on Crete is , I'm told, the V strom 650. My bike gear change had become a bit vague and the locks on the side panniers were not functioning correctly. The local Suzuki dealer had a yard full of 650s for sale and for parts. Mine was the first he had seen in blue and as these were the Greek national colours , wondered why they were not offered for sale here.

I explained my gear problem and he walked over to his workbench , grabbed an allen key and an extension socket , leaned into the back of the engine and began tightening . Then he fixed some stoppers on the pannier locks. He probably spent about 30 minutes in all on the bike and refused to take payment- pointing to the New Zealand decal on my windscreen.
My gear change is now back to normal and the bike seems more responsive to the throttle – or is that just my imagination.

I have now done over 16000 km on the bike ( I planned to do 12000 for the total trip) and still have about 4000 to go. After this time you recognise and begin to worry about little noises you hear and any changes in the ride – you are so attuned to the bike.

I am writing this on the weekly ferry that runs from the Western end of Crete to the bottom of the Peloponnese peninsula. I will ride the 300km to Patras through the centre of the peninsula and catch the ferry for the 33 hour trip to Venice. The cost for the Patras – Venice ferry is about $170 but I get a 20% discount for being over 60, a famous motorcyclist and of course, drummer.

From Venice I can go through Austria and the mountains to Berlin or cut up along the French Swiss border. The mountains appeal, but so does the wine country.

Either way it will be a great ride. I am just lucky to have the choice , unlike some of my countrymen resting at Sudo Bay.

Till next time

Safe Riding