Three months around Europe

Venice is expensive - $16 for a can of coke and half that for a small bottle of water and the road tolls are the most expensive in Europe. But then you are paying for class: In architecture, style and sheer panache in extracting money. Most of the Italians , I spoke to said Venice was not the real Italy – it was the Italy for tourists. Florence, Milan, now they are Italy for Italians.

Milan is the fashion center of Europe. With my black Whangamomona Hotel T shirt, blue shorts,
fake Ray Bans and sandals I fitted right in . Indeed, I could see some of the malnourished little Italian designers taking note of my style sense. Look out next year for the Kiwi Pensioner look from DandG, Versace and Prada. Just glad this is not a stop on the contiki tour route.

On the subject of fashion,I just love the Carabenieri ( police ) here. Apparently it is the only police force that spends more on uniforms than equipment. They were lounging in the main square of Milan , hands cupped around either a cigarette or a coffee. Immaculately pressed uniform, mirror sunglasses and the bike cops had shiny boots, SAM brown belts and royal blue shirts. I understand they went on strike last year when their moisturizing allowance was halved.

The bike was serviced . I had been worried about some noises but apparently it is just the chain being busy and it will have to be changed in the next 4000km – so I should get back to blighty.
My panniers were just holding up, so I invested in some new ones – 46 litres per side and they threw in a summer riding jacket – cost about $600 nz with the fitting kit. I now have an Italian riding jacket which moulds to my frame like a flannel suit on a Qantas steward.

I started to like Italy in Milan -it was chaotic but fun. I was discussing my tour at the bike shop and they agreed with my choice of touring bike. I said I looked at BMWs but they were so pricey. The mechanic let go with that puff of air Continentals do so well when they are about to say something disdainful. “ the BMW in Milan is for those who just put a bottle of wine in the pannier and go to the party. It is about style not getting out and doing it like a traveller – like you. “ My ego was pumped and as I was still in my Kiwi Pensioner fashion statement. , I asked what is my chance of becoming a fashionista here in Milan - I feel I am ready. They looked at me as if to say don't give up your day job. As if I have one!

The campsite in Milan was very busy and next door to me was a van full of French little people, ( yes little people ) heading for the coast. Boy they were noisy, singing, air horns, trumpets. Finally at 2am I had enough and was about to crawl crawled out of my tent and walk over to Party central. However, I was beaten to it by a German who said “ if you drunken midgets don't shut up and go to bed then I will toss you all into the duck pond.” Contiki revellers you are forgiven.

. I left at 9am the next day and my neighbours were still asleep, or were until I gave the bike an extra couple of revs.

After that very mature exit from Milan, I hit the road for the mountains above Turin. I spent 10 days here in 1978 learning to ski and had always wanted to re visit. Sauze D'Oulx was just a little hamlet when I visited , but in 2006 , it was a venue for the winter Olympics and my precious little pub called the Andy Capp was transformed into a apre ski disco bar – which as a fashionista, famous motorcycle rider and drummer would be my natural habitat . I remember the cocktails costing $2 - now they were $25 and my wages haven't gone up 12 times.

I rode some mountain trails up to the highest peak at 2568m,got lost and ended up coming down route number 11, which I learned later was for walkers only. I took a hammering, my bike scraped its bottom several times- but it was character forming.

I leave Italy tomorrow for La Belle France.

I hope my small campsite neighbours have not got the word out to their mates about my noisy exit -I would hate to be a missile in a pensioner throwing contest.

Till next time

Safe Riding