Three months around Europe

For my final blog, some final thoughts are,hopefully, appropriate.

First up, the bike. Over the 21000 km, the V Strom 650 met all criteria. It was reliable, nimble, frugal, comfortable. Before my next trip, I will fit a skid pan and consider moving the oil cooler higher. A centre stand, 12v outlet, engine protection bars and a radiator guard are recommended. Heated grips are a personal preference but they were a joy when needed.

I looked seriously at doing the trip on a Suzuki 650 Scooter- many people were using them with satisfaction but the smaller wheels put me off. I also fell in love with a Moto Guzzi tourer , but the dealer who had it for sale alongside the Suzuki said for my kind of trip the Suzuki was best and I don't regret following that advice. BMWs were approx twice the price for a similar mileage, year and specification and I really don't think they are twice as good as the Suzuki. I also am a bit bias against them as I had a BMW car and it just kept going wrong.

Second, travel light. I took too many clothes but it cut down on the washing cycle. I rode in Kevlar Jeans and a cordura jacket with a rain suit as back up. I swapped my boots in Spain for goretex hiking boots which I covered with over shoes when it rained.
I rode very little in the rain.

Third, accommodation: I carried a tent, sleeping bag,self inflating mattress (Fat Eric) a stove, billy and plates etc. Carrying these gave me independence . I tried all kinds of accommodation but preferred camps as they were cheaper, generally quieter and most importantly, the bike and all my gear was next to me. Also it was easier to meet similar minded people and gain good advice from other travellers. I did not cook much as I found food and drink was generally below NZ prices.

Fourth, physical : The trip was reasonably demanding physically – though not as much as the previous year's cycle ride. I lost weight even though I ate well. I was fit before I left but I was still tired after 200km of riding in the hot sun with often 35 to 40C temperatures. I tried to travel in the morning and sightsee in the afternoon. I dehydrated on the bike easily so I had very regular water stops and every two hours I would stop and walk around and do some stretches. I found I became more flexible on the trip even though my joints were taking a pounding. I resisted taking anti inflammatory pills so I think I gradually increased my pain threshold. Having sat for many hours on push bike seats – the bike seat was heaven.

Five: Travel with a sense of humour. I try to think of it as detached bemusement. Spending many hours alone can mean you take things too seriously and get issues out of context. Sometimes I saw things or had things done to me that annoyed but soon realised that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. I am a great believer in karma and that things will happen mostly for the good. Some of my happiest times were spent with a beer just people watching and thinking about that day's ride, my family, my blog and friends and people I met.
I found my age a great advantage. Older people are highly respected in continental Europe, particularly those doing something considered out of the normal for their age group. I found generally, I was approached first if I was with a group of people. I was often ushered to the front of the line and Europe is full of senior citizen discounts particularly on ferries and trains.

Six, keeping in touch: I have a cell phone and netbook which I can charge on the bike. You get free wifi everywhere and I would use it to check my route, look for points of interest and communicate. I purchased a Kindle E book before I left and downloaded a whole lot of books onto it. It was great but it broke after two months and had to be replaced. My IPod and crap taste in music kept me happy on boring motorway stretches.

Seven: the route: I had a rough idea for the first month but after that I just listened to the stories of other travellers I met.- and if it appealed I went there. A GPS makes life easier. They are cheap in Europe. I set Maureen and Eva to avoid motorways and toll roads and I had some lovely rides. I also used Google Maps to work out terrain and distances.

Eight: the bikers fraternity. “ Bikers are just one big family. Motorists just don't understand the shared bond of those who ride bikes.” I was told by a Swede. Perhaps a little overstated but the number of kindnesses I had from bikers and bike shops were numerous and always unsolicited.

Nine: the sights are important, but people make the trip. I found my most memorable moments were with people. Being alone on a trip, you learn to be a listener and find people, particularly youngsters are eager for your advice or to share your experiences. By asking the right questions I was often surprised how much people open up. Perhaps they think riding a motorbike between two points gives you a gift of wisdom and insight. Here comes the pensioner guru on the V strom.
I don't mind travelling solo. It is more expensive and you have only your own resources to rely on. On the flip side, you don't have to discuss changes with anyone else. If something I intended to do was a little outside the broad plan I would justify it by saying - “ but you are worth it.” Try it -it salves consciences very quickly.
Ten: Appreciate home.
I have had the luck to travel and do some interesting things during my working life and particularly since I retired. There is one thing I have learned above all else - I am very fortunate to live in New Zealand. Before you contemplate bike touring anywhere else in the world, try NZ. The South Island in the summer cannot be beaten- the riding is sublime. Same for the East Coast of the North Island. You do not get the ancient cultures and buildings but it is a great shakedown to see if you are suited to extended touring.

My plans now are to head home, watch the World Cup and ski on my beloved Turoa. On October 28, I fly to Laos for a two month cycle ride roughly following the Ho Chi Minh trail through to Vietnam, then down to the Mekong Delta, up to Angkor Wat and then onto Thailand.

The V Strom has been laid up for the winter . I plan to come back to Europe in 2012. Morocco and Turkey are on the agenda. Jordan, Syria and Egypt also appeal but politics may intervene. I have all the summer in the Coromandel to work on it.
If I can help anyone contemplating touring Europe or you just want to share experiences , I am happy to do so. Also any advice on touring the countries mentioned above would be appreciated.

Thanks for reading my blog, your kind comments and suggestions and most of all, for sharing my trip.

Till next time

Safe Riding