Gremlin's Tall Stories

Saturday

The reason for fitting the dual purpose tyres was a weekend of exploring the Queen Charlotte and Pelorus Sound. I’ve been around the Nelson-Picton area several times already, but normally on tight schedules, going up Takaka Hill, across to the West Coast or heading south to Christchurch.

This time, I guess I could have done a couple of long days going down the west coast for example, but I’ve done most of the roads before, and will do a lot of them in February. The weekend gave me the ability to explore the Sounds instead, which I’ve wanted to do for a few years. The boss approved of the idea, so I had the whole weekend to do so, before using Monday to head north.

8am the alarm rings, but I feel no desire to move. I reset for 8.30am and when it rings I’m in the middle of snoozing it for 9am when I realise the free breakfast on offer by the backpackers ends at 9am. That’s enough to get me out of bed straight away and I travel the 10-20m between buildings in a matter of minutes ready for some free brekkie.

A huge bowl of cornflakes and a couple of slices of toast later and my only regret is I have missed out on the cheese scones. Mmmm, the mission for Sunday morning is clear. I remove the top box and chuck some necessary gear for the day into the panniers and fill up at the local Shell in Picton. I have no idea where, if any, places will be for food, so grab some One Square Meals for the day and head down Queen Charlotte Drive.

After a post from LBD in a related thread asking what the roads are like in the sounds, he’s reminded me that some of the roads I’ll be riding are a Flyer in the TT2000, so it’s a perfect opportunity to gather data on them for others, and also compare Queen Charlotte Drive to going right around via Rapaura Rd. Queen Charlotte Drive is the most direct route between Nelson and Picton, but the road is tight, slow going and with campervans, potentially dangerous. The route round is safer but longer, so knowing which is the better route will be useful next year.

Since I’m timing the Queen Charlotte Rd, I can’t stop for the nice scenery and I focus on keeping a smooth pace, no speeding and watching how many vehicles I needed to pass. There were a lot of roadworks, mostly signposted, but one or two surprises. The guys were busy working, with one section closed down to one lane. The knobbly front tyre was very handy, providing excellent traction compared the road tyres I’ve always used on various bikes.

The road was very quiet, with less than a handful of vehicles that didn’t even hold me up for long, as most turned off almost immediately – and I felt lucky indeed. Passing is definitely in short supply on the road bar the open straights around Linkwater, so I wouldn’t like to get caught in a train of campervans. Approaching a bridge in the 90kph zone I overtook a camper moving a little slow, but then noticed the one way bridge and a camper on the other side that had right of way.

Pulled on the picks and flashed my lights to motion for them to proceed, but they didn’t move. Another flash once stopped and they came across the bridge with a friendly wave. Continuing on, Havelock was quiet, but a few bikes were passing through. The road opened out, suitable for a highway on the other side, and a couple of tankers had to be passed. I’d only just finished passing the second when a bike cop passed in the opposite direction. Not only was I glad he wasn’t earlier, but also that I’d been passing with as little excess speed as possible. Definitely the short straw drawn to patrol that area… yeah right.

Rai Valley wasn’t far from there, another quiet town, but waved to a few bikers that seemed to be on a run of sorts. It was a short hop to the turn off to Okiwi Bay, Port Ligar and French Pass. This was the section that I needed to time, for those on the TT2000. How long did it take from SH6 to Elaine Bay (past Okiwi Bay), so once again, photo stops were not allowed. The road was sealed all the way, quite tight in sections but very quiet, being the middle of the day. The marks on the road made it seem not all vehicles stayed on their side of the road so the pace was cautious but rolling.

With the timing done, and some bemused tourists by the wharf satisfied I was just taking a few shots, I continued past Elaine Bay to explore the rest of the peninsula. It was all gravel beyond that point but most of it was easy going and well maintained. I reached Wairangi Bay via a rougher road and at the bay found that locals probably continued via the shoreline. Not so keen on the idea myself, being alone, I decided discretion was the better idea this time. I took a brief break to remove the waterproof liner in the jacket. The temperature had soared past 20 degrees and mesh was what I wanted for exploring through gravel roads.

Some of the locals in the paddock came over for a chat appearing quite curious, but were decidedly unhelpful in offering suggestions and where to go. I left the cows to it, and the person in the house that had been watching me also didn’t come and say hi. I retraced my tracks to the main road. Continuing down the road I found the private access only road to the Bay, so left them in peace.

I reached French Pass and the small town by the same name, found it sealed towards the end of the road, a school founded in 1882 and quite a few trailers with the boats presumably out on the water. The views were stunning and the weather was playing ball, so I got quite a few really good shots displaying the sounds in all their splendour. A quick check at the gas pumps to see the ridiculous prices being charged and I headed south.

Reaching the main road I headed north again, bound for Port Ligar. The map was ambiguous about whether there was a road to head out onto the Port Ligar headland, so I wanted to know, once and for all. It was all gravel, but reasonably well maintained and easy going. The views over the Sounds were absolutely picturesque and I got some really nice shots. Reaching Port Ligar it was private land, with authorised access only, so no chance of the headland then.

Instead, there was still the road to Bulwer, and the GPS got very inaccurate at this point, with the open source maps stating there was no road to Bulwer, and a town of several streets existed. I didn’t believe it to be accurate, so what better way to improve the maps than track it for the guys? Sure enough, a road did exist, although quite narrow and winding. The town of streets didn’t exist, just one private road down to the shore, but I went down anyway, to find out some information for the businesses there. It was incredibly annoying to find out when I got home that all the tracking I did for the road to Bulwer somehow didn’t exist… but perhaps it means I have to go there again…

I ended up finding only one person, with the people who managed the cottages away. He didn’t live there, but was helping his brother by replacing some of the planking on the wharf. After a nice chat, I wished him a good day and continued on the exploration. That section of the Sounds were mostly explored for the day, and it was already mid-afternoon. Heading south I stopped in Cissy Bay, but Te Towaka was resident access only. Finding the end of the road around Cissy Bay I found an old guy with a couple of gorgeous old tractors, that he had restored. He took them to shows and had won a few prizes, with the McCormack being one of three operational in NZ. He had custom fabricated a lot of the parts in order to bring it back up to running condition and was clearly passionate about it.

We chatted for a while, before I left him to beer o’clock, which was running a bit late for him. Time was marching on for me as well, and I still had to get back to Picton, so I picked up the pace a little and once back on the seal picked up the pace further. The Karoo front was now handling very well on seal, not moving around much and enabling quite a decent pace for a knobbly.

In Havelock I elected to take the long way around, heading south, then east to Rapaura, then north again to Picton. The route was around twice the distance of Queen Charlotte Drive, but I was interested to see how it stacked up time wise for the TT2000 next year. I did my best to maintain a smooth pace for best comparison, and was interested to see that it was almost exactly the same time-wise. There weren’t actually many good passing opportunities, with one good one barred due to double yellows the length of the straight, so heavy traffic would also affect you along this route (but at least vehicle speeds would be higher).

Reaching Picton around 7pm it was a quick change of clothes and then a short walk into town to find somewhere to eat. I’d been to the large takeaways, but they were on the expensive side, and a walk of both sides of the main street found amusingly similar prices for similar food. I settled on a small place and had a roast of the day, which wasn’t too bad. Not wanting an expensive dessert, I got into the supermarket before their closing time and got an ice-cream and some biscuits to last the weekend (just one pack GiJoe :P)

Back to the backpackers, a few people were choosing a movie to watch so I settled down to watch it. No-one could pick one, but eventually Angels and Demons was chosen and once we figured out how to get the movie displayed and running, we settled in to watch. Afterwards, it was shower and bed.

I’d ridden for about 8.5 hours but only covered 350km, unusually short for me, but the rougher roads meant I was just as tired as if I’d covered twice the distance.


Sunday

Another late start, but the offering of a free breakfast was enough to get me up at 0830. This time, I was in time to get the last of the cheese scones, so at least a score on that front. More cornflakes and toast for breakfast, then I organised the gear and set off for another round of exploring. There were clouds hanging around, but I expected for them to burn off later, much like the previous day.

Today I was heading past Kenepuru Sound and Heads to explore the other landmass and all the roads it had to offer. I’ve been out as far as Portage previously, for a previous TT2000 and remember it being extremely tight and twisty. Since I had left after 10am again, I was pressed for time, so didn’t stop in Queen Charlotte Drive for some pictures.

In Mahau Sound I found a very tight little road, effectively servicing the few houses on it, but it was fun finding out where it ended. On my way to the main road I found the pretty flowers I’d been seeing a lot of on Saturday. When passing, I’d thought to myself that I must photograph, as people complain they only get shots of scenery and my bike (although, personally, I see no problem with that). Of course, I completely forgot, and feared I might even have to leave out this bit in the report, but no, thanks to these, I could photograph some flower stuff, and demonstrate my flexibility.

Coming back to the main road I couldn’t figure out what a woman was saying or motioning to me so pulled over to the side to remove my gear. She wasn’t trying to speak to me anymore, but it became obvious with the minute. She was a farmer, moving cattle, and they were driving the cattle down the side road I had just come from. Thankfully I’d parked the bike on the far side of the road and ended up helping them herd cows down the road for a few minutes.

A guy on a farm bike had to retrieve some eager cows up on a grass bank, and as he approached, I motioned for him to stop, removing clumps of grass and bushes from his front brakes. Back on the road, avoiding all the cow shit (I really do hate that part of cows and other animals in general, that get moved on the road). The road past Portage was mostly as twisty as I remembered it, keeping well on my side of the road as many oncoming vehicles were using my lane as well.

Past Kenepuru Heads there were several roads to explore, all gravel, some varying in their difficulty and roughness.

I headed west first, finding Crail Bay and that the road went on further, before ending in private land instead of potentially looping around. Continuing past Hopewell, the road had been very well maintained, and I was wishing for a bit more adventure. Right past Hopewell, this came… in spades. I negotiated one mud puddle on the track, before finding the road forking, with one arm descending into more deeply tracked mud and puddles, the other arm heading steeply uphill. Suddenly, the urge for adventure was gone, opting for discretion, and noting I should return to explore with a mate or two (so they could help get me out of whatever I inevitably get myself into)

It was annoying that a thirst for adventure quickly evaporated, but I’ve had a good lesson or two in taking GSA’s places by yourself…

Clova Bay (found a DOC camping area at the end) and Manaroa were pretty, but my attempt to find a loop back to Crail Bay was foiled by a forestry area, so I contented myself with a bit of speed on gravel, enjoying the stability of the knobbly front and going through a water crossing next to a bridge. Returning to Kenepuru Heads and the main T intersection it was already 1630 and it was a good hour and a half back to Picton. I took a short break, having missed a proper lunch due to time and lack of places.

While munching on a one square meal and drinking some Powerade I debated the northern roads. Time was limited, but I was here. It would mean a late return, but accommodation was already sorted. I decided to continue, since I wanted to see what was there. The clouds hadn’t burned off so it had remained cloudy all day, often threatening rain, but nothing had eventuated.

There were a few side roads that need updating in the maps and the road to Anakoha definitely needed substantial re-alignment, taking an altogether different path. The road ended abruptly at a gate for station access only, and while reading the sign on the gate a guy came down the road in a Territory and confirmed it was for the farm only. He was surprised to see me, but agreed the scenery was stunning. I offered to shut the gate for him and when turning around I was confronted with a great view of the bush I had passed through.

I came across him when retracing my route, but he was going a bit quick for my comfort and using my side of the road as well. The hazards of exploring roads where the locals don’t expect to see anyone… I headed down the road to Titirangi, finding the place of the same name differed by just a little to the one I know in Auckland. Like… no houses vs a built up suburb…

It was now after 6pm and I’d passed some tourists on the way down to the bay that I thought I should try to catch up to, which gave me something to chase. I set a good pace on the well packed roads, but depressingly the GPS kept pushing out my ETA. I never saw the car either. My arrival in Picton was stated to be 8pm, so I put my head down and pushed on until reaching Queen Charlotte Drive.

I took my time along the drive, finally allowing myself to stop when I wished, to get some photos of the view. The sun was setting, so the shots weren’t as good as they could have been, but the sound was quiet and it was very peaceful to ride along. I reached Picton at 2015, so another quick change and straight back out for some food.

This time I chose the takeaways across the road, with most places already closing up. I had a burger, fish and chips and a milkshake. The supermarket closed while I was eating, but I didn’t care. For the first time in a while, a place that had snapper on the menu actually had it, and it was really delicious. I thanked the owner and headed back to the backpackers. It was late, so I headed straight to my room, mucked about playing games on my mobile for the evening, had a shower and into bed.

About 8 hours riding time and 320km. An average of only 40kph, but it felt like I’d done a massive day.


Monday

A rare day off work and the mobile was remarkably quiet. The earliest ferry I could catch was 10am, so up a little early at 0730, breakfast (this time I was catching the making of the scones, so they were hot and soft) and all the gear loaded on the bike in order to check-in prior to 9am. The clouds were looking ominous and rain was forecast to be heavy for the whole day. Time for a drag up to Auckland then.

I chatted to one of the BikeTranz guys while waiting for the ferry talking about all things bikes, and he was a rider himself, just never found a lot of time to get out and explore. There was only one other rider on the ferry, with his son as pillion, and this ferry was the one with bike specific bays (I can never remember which ferry is which – but usually get both on one of the trips). I helped him tie the bike down then headed upstairs.

I found some seating and ended up speaking to one of the co-owners of the restaurant in Wellsford riders often stop at (opposite the Caltex). Talked about all things from bikes, why he was driving between Invercargill and Wellsford for his daughters and the joy of running a restaurant with all the red tape in NZ.

Time passed quickly and we berthed in Wellington in the usual 3 hours. Before returning to Auckland I made a quick detour into a client to check all the work on Friday was satisfactory and ended up sorting unrelated matters for the afternoon. Before leaving downtown I went to my usual lunch bar and had an early dinner so I didn’t need to stop for the night. I only escaped Wellington at 1645, perfectly in time to fight the rush hour traffic (perhaps peak is a better word), and almost got taken out on the motorway when a car changed into my lane RIGHT in front of me. How he missed an enormous adventure bike, plus the lights I don’t know.

I was possibly more surprised by my own lack of reaction. He would have been half a metre away across my front, I didn’t even brake, and just him slide in front of me. I didn’t even bother flashing him or anything… just sort of accepted it in disbelief. He pulled back into the left lane and when I passed mouthed a big “So Sorry, I really didn’t see you” and seemed clearly apologetic. Yes… well clearly. I gave him a curt nod and continued. All part and parcel of riding on NZ roads I guess

I continued north on SH1, thankfully with no more adventures. The rain had amazingly stayed away the entire afternoon while in Wellington but looked more and more threatening as I headed north. On the long drag up to Sanson I started doing some math on my fuel consumption. I hadn’t filled since the Sunday morning and had done some 330km exploring the Sounds. Now heading north I had to decide where to stop. My usual stop in Turangi initially looked assured until the gas ranging progressed, and then it clearly wasn’t possible.

At least I had something to do on the boring straights to keep my mind occupied. I did my best to ride economically, minimising throttle movements and changes in speed, but keeping my speed just over 100kph as much as possible. I was able to drag a few kilometres extra out, but not as much as I was hoping. The GSA doesn’t score fantastically well at 100kph fully loaded, but it is an adventure bike. Nearing Taihape and the rain began. I could also stop at the BP, but decided I wanted the Z in Waiouru instead.

This was quickly becoming impossible as my ranging was marginally ahead of the distance remaining. I drafted a truck for some distance, gaining range but getting soaked in truck wash from the wet roads. After a while I called it quits, found a good place to overtake, but slowed my pace down to 100kph instead of 110kph indicated. Passing an oncoming cop I bet he was disappointed I wasn’t speeding, but doing more like 90kph instead. It was painful, but less painful than walking. It was also very much in the forefront of my mind, that if I ran out of gas with one of the biggest tanks available on a bike, my mates would never let me live it down. A story is quickly read, but the scenarios and ranging were playing out for an hour or more in my head. It did make the time pass in less boring fashion.

The reduced pace and drafting paid off, arriving in Waiouru with 13km to spare. The station attendant was most surprised when bringing up my gas, and we ended up chatting for a short while as there was no-one else. The temperature had been dropping all the way north and Ruapehu was looking very snow covered so I used one of the bathrooms to get liners into my pants and threw all the liners into the jacket as well as throwing on another thermal top. A nice pie sped up the process of getting the inside of my body warm, and I took a few pictures as the sun was on its way to setting.

I was aiming to ride to Auckland non-stop, so on with the clear visor and I also put on my rain jacket, so I probably bore an uncanny resemblance to Michelin man. Of course, predictably, the temperature didn’t really drop further, but the conditions certainly deteriorated. I left Waiouru just before 9pm and headed up SH1 to Tirau.

Visibility dropped hugely in the Desert Rd with thick fog blanketing the road. A couple of cars nicely moved over as I caught up to them, and then it started raining… and never stopped… I was impressed by the road performance of the Karoo in bad weather, namely on wet roads. I rode more gently but the riding time between Wellington and Auckland only differed by 15-30min from usual, despite the bad weather.

10-15 kilometres out from Turangi and there is a people mover stopped on the roadside with hazards going. I stop to find out if they need assistance, but apparently it’s overheated, so they are waiting for it to cool before continuing. It was pouring with rain, so I wasn’t in any mood to stand still, so carried on. While riding, I thought it was hardly wise to be crossing those sorts of roads at night, in a vehicle that clearly shouldn’t, if it overheats in 10 degrees…

At Tirau I turned off and did the back roads north, which were quiet and boring as usual. The new roundabout they’ve installed near Morrinsville was very slippery from the mud, but gently as she goes. At the Paeroa-Tahuna roundabout it definitely got interesting, with a house being moved along the road, taking up the entire road. I slipped past the cars and moved up behind the pilot vehicle, for a quick getaway once possible. The truck and house went right around the roundabout, with all vehicles held up for the house, so I went left as usual and pass the house. I warned the next few vehicles I came across on the road.

The rest of the trip was all about smooth riding to match the slippery conditions and I got home shortly after 1am, with a great weekend all over. It was about 2000km for the weekend, and it looks like I’ll get a few more kilometres on the knobbly before it needs to be replaced.