Gremlin's Tall Stories

The alarm went at 9am, but this time there was no rush to leave the accommodation. We had two nights in Hanmer Springs, allowing us to explore the Rainbow Rd and Station without the weight of all our luggage, and also more time to do things at our pace. I wanted to leave earlier, as I knew the Rainbow would be about 3 hours, if not more, we had to do it twice and some side tracks, but at the same time, it was our holiday and time to take it easier, sample the food, enjoy the scenery and so on.

Breakfast was a top priority and I knew there was a bakery in town having seen it again the previous night (same place GiJoe and I used when we stayed here) so down there to sample their delights. Toto really enjoyed his bagel (complete with eating the entire slice of lemon – and admits he would basically eat them like apples) and I had a steak and bacon pie and toasted roll with pineapple and ham. We both gave into the treats on offer, I had an apple slice and he had an apricot turnover.

We strolled further into town eaten our tasty treats (what else are holidays for?) as I wanted to check with the i-Site as to which pass was easier, or if we couldn’t tackle either. I knew there were 2 passes up to the Rainbow/Molesworth Rd, perhaps 3, and one was very much 4WD only. Didn’t know names or which was which, so figured the i-Site could help.

Alas, they were still closed for another 20min until 10am, and I wanted to get going, knowing we had a full day ahead going up and down Rainbow Station and also deviating to see Lake Tennyson, Maling Pass and Edwards Pass (thanks to adventure guide of course). We’d soon find out if there was one we couldn’t do (but we’d probably be stupid enough to try anyway). We used panniers only, taking some spare clothing, food, water and other bits and bobs like tools. I warned Toto we were heading into isolated places, no mobile reception etc, and the weather could turn nasty quickly. Best to be prepared and I had my usual stuff like survival blanket, PLB and small first aid kit.

In the end we only left the backpackers at 10.20am, then we needed gas so fuelled outside town, then headed back through town to go up Clarence Valley Rd so it was already 10.45am by the time we hit the gravel. Just our luck, a grader is busy working, and has left a nice mound of gravel running the length of the road to the left of centre. I stick the left hand wheel track to keep safe for oncoming vehicles, but randomly the mound of gravel goes right to left side of the road, leaving me with nowhere to go, so I have to cross it constantly. I also make the mistake of stopping on a steep section to check Toto was still safe behind me (and the overtaken grader hadn’t eaten him,) then struggled to get going again, having no momentum. A bit of effort and a lot of wheel spin and I’m off again.

Reaching the top I wait for Toto to arrive, snapping off a couple of pics and looking at the weather. It looked more promising than earlier, but still undecided between glorious sunshine and wet rain. The forecast promised dry weather, but rain on subsequent days. Once Toto arrived we headed west along Tophouse Rd, otherwise known as the Rainbow Rd. I saw a low flying chopper overhead and then found it up ahead, on the ground with rotors whirling. I stopped to take pictures and as I did the pilot must have decided not to wait for me to pass and took off instead. I grab a desperate second shot of it in flight, fighting flying dust and trying to keep the bike upright. Toto says the pilot waved…

We continue north, being good little bikers and keeping out of the water if possible, using the bridges as requested by the signs. We make OK time, slowing for rougher sections and speeding up for faster ones, but we’re in no rush and enjoying the view. I spy the two turn offs for Edwards Pass and Maling Pass, and I’ve requested the gate codes from DOC, so we can do them on the return (ie, when I have less gas in my fuel tank). I could have started the day with less than a full tank, but I always fill my bike up, then track mileage. The weather has been improving throughout the day and there is now more blue sky than clouds and it’s reasonably warm, in the high teens.

At the track for Edwards Pass we’re going through the gate when a couple of 4WDs come the other way, so I play the gate person letting them through as well, before locking it again. We pass the Lake Tennyson just before midday and I spy the nose of a R1200GS emerging from the side road while checking Toto is still behind me. The GS is part of a group of four, one rider from New Plymouth and the other three from overseas, having a tour of NZ. We play leapfrog with them throughout the road. We stop at the top of Island Saddle for pictures, they roll on by. They stop at a gate and kindly let us through right after, so we take the lead. We explore a side road then decide to do the main route first… they overtake again. Then we’re in the middle of their group for a section before they stop again.

We waited at one gate to let them through, taking a short break to have some photos but they don’t appear so we continue. We reach the ranger hut with a lady taking the tolls. It turns into Rainbow Rush Hour as the GS’s catch up, then two riders appear from the northern end, so along with a couple of vehicles there are 8 bikes at once. We fill in the paperwork and handover $30 for the two of us… she says she won’t charge us twice as we’ll return through the Rainbow after a quick stop in St Arnaud, so that was nice of her.

The only hurdle left now is the stream (five or six mile, can’t remember which) about 10km up the road. I arrive first, not exactly sure which path I should take, but the best option is gas on and find out when you get to the other side. I get sent sideways by a big rock but make it out OK. I give Toto the path and he’s across without issue, but for safety we wait for the other four to come through, which they do as well. We have a brief chat, they are most curious at a Hornet doing river crossings and we wish them well as they only have a day or two left.

They go first and we follow. There is a nice forest glade we pass through and then a handful of fords, quite easy to cross as most have a concrete bottom, but it’s their names that catch my attention the most. See pics for four of the five, things like Merry Ford. Reaching the main road we catch a last glimpse of the group as they head towards Blenheim and we headed in the opposite direction to St Arnaud.

It was time for a late lunch at 1.50pm for half an hour. I didn’t want to take too long as we still had a 2nd trip through Rainbow, so I had a sandwich and passionfruit slice. The flies and mozzies had Toto and I for lunch. Not wanting a side of flies with my food I ate quickly, had a toilet break and we jumped back on the bikes to head back to Rainbow.

I stop at each ford to photograph the signs, Toto in turn photographs me taking the pictures Back through the forest glade I take some pictures as I didn’t on the first trip. The seal ends, it’s back to off road suspension settings and we return to the ranger house. We can go straight through, but I thought I would just let her know we’re back, before some random bikers fire through. She’s not around, so we continue on, meeting her just up the road and giving a friendly wave to match her smile and wave.

The pace south is quicker as we’re more used to the gravel, but stop a little more frequently to take nice pictures, that I thought might exist once we’re heading the other way. Toto is now much more comfortable sliding around on road tyres so he speeds on ahead while I take it a bit easier, mindful that Ewan and Charlie destroyed shocks on corrugated roads. I don’t feel like doing that, so decide to look after my bike (plus the suspension apparently isn’t rebuildable).

We detour for the short road to the Tarndale Lakes to see how far it goes (which isn’t far at all), finding the rest is a walking track for pretty flowers and stuff. We’re not interested so carry on, the next detour for Lake Tennyson, which I can now say with some authority that the lake is simply gorgeous and extremely photographic. A few shots and a quick break to have some food before we carry on.

It’s only over the hill to Maling Pass. Adventure Guide lists Rainbow as a Grade 2, and Maling and Edwards Passes as Grade 3’s. Toto proves he’s incapable of operating a combination lock, but fortunately I’m around to help. We use the DOC provided codes to gain entry. I’m expecting something more challenging (aka fun), and while the start is quite innocent it’s very enjoyable. We reach the top of the pass to photograph the view, Toto mentions it’s actually pretty easy going… and he spoke far too soon. Down the other side it’s quite steep and reasonably rough, but I’m in Off Road 2, which raises the ride height, softens the suspension and sitting in first I crawl down the slopes.

Toto on the other hand is trying first, neutral, brakes, no brakes but his road tyres are not up to the task. He’s sliding down the hill brakes on, heading for steep drop offs and not overly impressed. He heeds the warnings he’s getting and decides he’s done. I stop further down, noting he hasn’t moved and he beeps his horn. A yelling conversation between us, and he’s announced he’s going to turn around. I can’t turn around as it’s too narrow and steep. I tell Toto I’m going further down to turn around.

I find a suitable location and turn around without issue and slowly climb back up. I prompt Toto to take a video as I reckon it’ll look pretty good (except as always with pictures and videos they never do it justice) and climb up past him stopping on a section that’s more level. I walk back down since Toto hasn’t moved since he said he was turning around, strip off some of my gear and we proceed to haul the Hornet around (with some difficulty) and get Toto climbing up the hill again. He’s given strict instructions that once he gets going he keeps going until he reaches the top, as traction is hard to come by when you’re trying to start. I put my gear back on and re-join Toto at the top.

It’s clear that road bikes have their limits, especially on road tyres, but at least we found those limits in relative safety, no-one hurt and I still think Toto did bloody well, taking his beloved Hornet far further that most would take road bikes. I felt there was no point trying Edwards Pass as it was 6pm by the time we got back to the main road, plus it was possibly as difficult. The sun was disappearing behind the hills and Toto found out just how cold it gets, and how quickly, when the sun disappears in these isolated places.

We returned to Hanmer, having had a fantastic day, knowing we would return with Toto on a proper adventure bike, to tackle the two passes again. After having a discussion, we used Jollies Pass Rd instead to descend into Hanmer Springs. It allowed us to use both, then see which was more suitable for being fully loaded the following day when we came back up to do Molesworth. The sun was setting over the valley, an awesome sight indeed, but hard to photograph properly with the glare. On the outskirts we found a bit of fun dirt with a little gully so I rode through a couple of times for Toto while he videoed.

Toto had had a day of eating my dust, but still grinning from ear to ear, his gear completely dusty, so I photographed him upon returning to the backpackers shortly before 7.30pm. He declared himself a true adventure rider with all the dust, but I think he has to complete Maling Pass before I pay him that compliment

Toto had a quick shower before dinner was next on the menu. We fancied taking up the challenge of Piccolino’s claim that their pizzas were excellent, but got distracted en-route by the offer of half kilo steaks for $20. Going inside (letting our stomachs do the talking) we found a waiting list, with possibly 15min. Then factor in the wait time for the actual food to arrive, and we declined. Piccolino was literally just around the corner so back to them. Foiled by the lack of large 12” pizzas (the owner said they sold out of everything most nights) there were five 9” pizzas left so we took four, ordering four different flavours.

I think Toto and I would agree that it’s probably the best pizzas we’ve ever had. The names were flash and Italian and stuff, so I can’t really re-count them, but I ordered a meat lovers and a chicken. Toto had a different meat with olives and an Hawaiian. Toto’s meat and my meat lovers were the best, I chose my meat lovers because of the BBQ sauce on it. Chicken was third and while the Hawaiian was excellent in its own right, it paled against the others. We chatted to the owner (that now had up his amusing little signs declaring no food – Toto photographed them) and if ingredients weren’t made on site, they were made to his order by suppliers. BBQ sauce for example was made to his requirements.

A bit expensive at $26 for a large pizza, but you definitely got to try them if you’re passing through Hanmer Springs. We skipped dessert having had plenty of food from the pizzas, knowing we could have some ice-cream at the backpackers later. The evening was spent giving each other our photos, watching videos and viewing pictures. I sunk more time into my blogging as did Toto.

We turned in for the night around midnight and both had excellent sleeps.

Pics: http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/b...0TT2000%20D07/