splatcat

When do you think you'll have it done? If you've got plenty of photos, and have it documented, it'd be a good ongoing article for www.thirteenmotorcyclemagazine.co.nz

yes have a few photos of job in progress.will do best to post.

public album on profile will do more as i go along cheers

Originally Posted by The Lone Rider

When do you think you'll have it done? If you've got plenty of photos, and have it documented, it'd be a good ongoing article for www.thirteenmotorcyclemagazine.co.nz

you can tell not pc minded but will get use to this site in time have put public album on profile on work so far cheers.

when are you expecting it to be finished?

Originally Posted by The Lone Rider

when are you expecting it to be finished?

giving myself three months to do ,fingers crossed all goes well and using over summer.

Send me an email to information@thirteenmotorcyclemagazine.co.nz

Interesting, why the TIG welding for certification? a clean high pentration mig weld for a couple of those
welds or fish plating of the axle would have been ok.

the biggest thing with low volume cert everyone has a different opinion
however I do like how you have captured the rear axle in a over top C notch.
even with two bolts missing the axle is still captured to a point.

the only part that concerns me is your rear brake master cylinder setup
I can certainly understand the standard M/C rear cylinder is not big enough
or the oringal bike in question was a drum rear rod pull ?
( Im not a bike guru ) however to me looks like a rod pull from under the
swing arm? could you throw a little more light on the subject?

Originally Posted by carburator

Interesting, why the TIG welding for certification? a clean high pentration mig weld for a couple of those
welds or fish plating of the axle would have been ok.

the biggest thing with low volume cert everyone has a different opinion
however I do like how you have captured the rear axle in a over top C notch.
even with two bolts missing the axle is still captured to a point.

the only part that concerns me is your rear brake master cylinder setup
I can certainly understand the standard M/C rear cylinder is not big enough
or the oringal bike in question was a drum rear rod pull ?
( Im not a bike guru ) however to me looks like a rod pull from under the
swing arm? could you throw a little more light on the subject?

using 3/4 trailer master cylinder and going to enlarge rod pulling gear.when i rang cert guy in chch new rules were that all my work had to be tig weilded plus had to build complete new swing arm and not to use old one at all.plus tail shaft has to be fully covered .rather mig and arc myself but hey tig only takes three times as long .as i said first timer any advice will be taken well aye.
thanks

Originally Posted by splatcat

using 3/4 trailer master cylinder and going to enlarge rod pulling gear.when i rang cert guy in chch new rules were that all my work had to be tig weilded plus had to build complete new swing arm and not to use old one at all.plus tail shaft has to be fully covered .rather mig and arc myself but hey tig only takes three times as long .as i said first timer any advice will be taken well aye.
thanks

well first any weld that can affect loss of brakes has to be NDT ( non destructive tested )
your upper pivot in my eyes is rather a weak spot of design and funtion.

I can see why you have located the master cylinder where you have due to constraints
of swing arm pivot and that lump of a motor in the way

I certainly would have a double shear bracket for your upper linkage pivot point insteat of
that bit of flat infact id get a bit of box, cut the ass out of it and notch it so you can get
weld on two shear force faces

if some one could tell me how to add pics from a url and not my hd i could post some..

seems to be one rule for some over the welding, having said that ive seem some beautiful mig
welds that where not worth a cup of cold snot. mine gets put to the test

with tig welding, good gas flow, super clean surface prep ( remove all paint, definitly hit the
weld area with a stainless buff on a grinder and i certainly degrease with brake cleaner )
there are a couple of wives tales on the net about welding and brake cleaner and hell ive been
at it for years and are better in breath and health than a smoker.. must be the brand i use...?

using a higher grade filler rod than parent material ( stainless is a classic ) but also with steel
certainly helps the miller website is also a good resource for settings and eletrode selection
Mig wire makes great filler rod, more so when dealing with a weld that just won't behave
( you certainly know the ones i mean )

sorry about the novel... regars matt..

pic,s under settings i found part way down on left column and no probs on novel as any info or points are taken in as job on going concern thanks .one thing i found is slave cylinders need to be lower than master .thanks again .i mig weild every day at work so having to tig sucked.

Originally Posted by carburator

well first any weld that can affect loss of brakes has to be NDT ( non destructive tested )
your upper pivot in my eyes is rather a weak spot of design and funtion.

I can see why you have located the master cylinder where you have due to constraints
of swing arm pivot and that lump of a motor in the way

I certainly would have a double shear bracket for your upper linkage pivot point insteat of
that bit of flat infact id get a bit of box, cut the ass out of it and notch it so you can get
weld on two shear force faces

if some one could tell me how to add pics from a url and not my hd i could post some..

seems to be one rule for some over the welding, having said that ive seem some beautiful mig
welds that where not worth a cup of cold snot. mine gets put to the test

with tig welding, good gas flow, super clean surface prep ( remove all paint, definitly hit the
weld area with a stainless buff on a grinder and i certainly degrease with brake cleaner )
there are a couple of wives tales on the net about welding and brake cleaner and hell ive been
at it for years and are better in breath and health than a smoker.. must be the brand i use...?

using a higher grade filler rod than parent material ( stainless is a classic ) but also with steel
certainly helps the miller website is also a good resource for settings and eletrode selection
Mig wire makes great filler rod, more so when dealing with a weld that just won't behave
( you certainly know the ones i mean )

sorry about the novel... regars matt..