davemosstuning

CLEANING AND LUBING CABLES


THOTTLE CABLES
These cable ends are normally hidden inside the throttle housing for protection from the elements and are often coerced to move through gentle bends of metal tubing attached to the throttle housing and then inside the housing while attached to the throttle tube. The push and pull throttle cables go through the same range of motion so in order to keep the movement smooth, you should regularly be lubing the cables and then cleaning them when it is time to relube them again. That includes the inside of the housing itself and throttle tube grooves that the cables sit in.

The cables themselves are strands wound together to create the cable just the same as cables in a suspension bridge. The finished cable itself when wound has no plastic sheath to protect it from the outer cable housing as it moves back and forth so we need to supply it with some form of lubrication. What products should you use?


First order of business is to remove all the free play from the throttle cables via the adjuster(s) close to the right handle bar. Then remove the screws from the throttle housing and open it up to disconnect the cables from the throttle tube (NOTE: you may not have enough free play to do this so you may have to detach the cables from the throttle bodies/carburetors). At this time, you clean off all grease and any debris from the throttle tube completely with parts cleaner. Inspect the throttle tube for distress from the cable in gouging fresh marks or grooves and inspect the cables for any fraying. Then clen the inside of the throttle housing and remove all dust and debris.

When the above tasks are completed attach the cable lube fitting to the end of one cable and lube the cable correctly. Don’t spend 30 seconds doing this and call it good. It will take several minutes to do the job right! A tell tale sign is that cable lube is dripping on the engine and then onto the floor. Not pretty I know but you know the job is done! Remove the cable fitting and place high temperature grease on the exposed ends of the cables.

Next, rebuild the throttle housing systematically making sure that the cables are routed correctly around or behind the right hand fork and that the barrel ends are correctly positioned in the throttle tube. Once the throttle housing has been bolted back together in the correct location on the handle bar, check the operation of the throttle. Make sure you don’t push forward to accelerate and make sure the throttle turns smoothly in both directions! Reinstall the housing screws and tighten to the correct torque and check the movement of the throttle one last time for a smooth opening and snap back.

Assured that the cables are installed correctly, now go to the cable adjusters and set the free play in the cable to your desired setting between zero throttle and actually pulling the cable to open up the throttle bodies/carbs.

NEVER start the bike until you have gone past this step!

Once done with this task, start the bike and let it idle. Move from lock to lock to make sure the idle doesn’t rise. If it does, gradually put more free play in the cable until the idle does not change from lock to lock. Once that has been done, tighten up the lock ring or nut on the cable(s) and the job is done. You will notice a huge difference!


The Author:
Dave Moss is the Founder of Catalyst Reaction and Host of OnTheThrottle video programming specializing in technical analysis and how too segments. He has been working with street, track and race riders and motorcycle suspension and chassis geometry since 1995 and has become an in industry internationally recognized authority in his field through his work with regard to testing and tuning. Dave is an avid rider and races with AFM in Northern California.


















CLUTCH CABLES
These cables are always exposed to the elements as the adjuster has an open groove in it to allow the cable to be fitted and removed. When the clutch lever is pulled back, the cable is further exposed to dust and grime so very frequent cleaning and lubing of this cable is critical – want to try limping home with no clutch cable. It’s not fun at all……..

The finished cable itself when wound has no plastic sheath to protect it from the outer cable housing as it moves back and forth so we need to supply it with some form of lubrication. What products should you use?

CYCLE GEAR LIST

To remove the clutch cable, loosen the lock ring if you have one and/or take out all the free play by turning the cable adjuster all the way into the perch clockwise and line the groove in the perch and adjuster so the cable can easily slide out. Next, remove the nut on the end of the bolt securing the lever to the perch and remove the bolt. Look to see if there is a key way or special position for the bolt to go back into as quite often they have a built in locking position. When you slide the clutch lever out of the perch take great care not to lose the brass bushing in the lever! Once the lever is free of the perch, remove the barrel end of the cable from the lever and set the lever down, putting the bolt and nut back into the lever so you don’t lose the bushing. With the cable now free, slide it through the perch/adjuster and free the cable completely from the perch.

As the cable is now exposed, carefully clean the grit and debris off the wire strands with a soft cloth and a degreaser but make sure no fluid or dirt drops into the cable housing. Also inspect both ends of the clutch cable for fraying or kinks carefully and if in doubt, replace it!

When the above tasks are completed attach the cable lube fitting to the end of the cable and lube the cable correctly. Don’t spend 30 seconds doing this and call it good. It will take several minutes to do the job right! A tell tale sign is that cable lube is dripping on the clutch cover and onto other engine parts. Not pretty I know but you know the job is done! Remove the cable fitting and place high temperature grease on the handle bar end of the cable.

Once that has been done, you need to put it all back together, so remove the bolt and nut from the lever. Then remove the bushing from the lever and grease it with high temp grease. Reinsert the bushing back into the lever and connect the barrel cable end into the lever. Make sure that the perch gap and adjuster gap are aligned and then insert the cable into the perch making sure that the cable sheath sits into the perch completely. Ease the cable into the perch and make sure the open side of the adjuster allows the cable to easily slide into it. You may have to encourage the lever back into the perch slightly but above all else, make sure the lever is correctly positioned and don’t force the perch bolt in. If you need force to do this, the clutch lever is not correctly positioned or the clutch cable is hung up! Insert the bolt correctly through the perch and lever making sure it is positioned right and put the nut back on the end of the bolt.

At this point, work the lever back and forth and watch the cable in the perch and adjuster – is it sliding smoothly. Come on, visually check it! If it doesn’t feel smooth something isn’t right. Recheck cable routing and lever position.

Once you are satisfied with the cable movement tighten the nut to the correct torque specification.

Now adjust the excessive free play out of the cable with the adjuster, and when you turn the adjuster make sure it doesn’t snag or grind up against the cable itself. Set the lever against the perch and then back the adjuster off clockwise to get 1-2mm of visual free play or air gap between the lever and perch. You need the expansion room for the cable and clutch getting hot, so err on the side of more free play. Once done if you have a lock ring on the adjuster, secure it in place against the perch so the adjuster cannot move.



The Author:
Dave Moss is the Founder of Catalyst Reaction and Host of OnTheThrottle video programming specializing in technical analysis and how too segments. He has been working with street, track and race riders and motorcycle suspension and chassis geometry since 1995 and has become an internationally recognized authority in his field through his work with regard to testing and tuning. Dave is an avid rider and races with AFM in Northern California and is the 2011 & 2012 450 Superbike Class Champion. For further information go to www.feelthetrack.com and Facebook: davemosstuning