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Three months around Europe

Senior Kiwi in Central America part 5

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My trip in Central America is nearly over. I just have a little over 300km to ride from El Tunco back to Guatemala City via Antigua.

In three months , the Suzuki 125 and I travelled 6000km through five countries - Guatemala, Honduras, El Salvador, Nicaragua and Costa Rica and the only problems were self inflicted when I fell off the bike and broke the clutch lever and the gear shift. I bodged a fix and a local mechanic made a permanent job. Cost $10. I serviced the bike twice and the cost was $10 a time including filters, oil and spark plug.

When I first suggested this trip there were sharp intakes of breath from friends and family and I read about horror border crossing stories. I never felt unsafe. My border crossings, even with minimal Spanish , were simple and straightforward, the staff professional and helpful. The only propina I paid was $2 to get my stamp during the Honduran lunch break saving me a couple of hours. I got stopped several times by Police and Army roadblocks but there was never any hint of a fine or shakedown in sharp contrast to my experiences in the Ukraine and Eastern Europe.

I often wonder if my 60 plus age gives me an advantage.

Road behaviour was good. Cars and trucks gave me a wide passing berth. I rode at dusk once and that was lesson enough. Sure the roads were a little basic in places, but the bike handled them well.

Accommodation was plentiful and spending between $10 and $20 a night got me a clean private room with facilities and often breakfast. You can do it cheaper, but after a day in the water or on the bike, a cold beer , shower and a quiet room are to me worth the extra dosh.

The bike was comfortable and I am 6ft 2in and weigh 95kg (210lb). I could handle 300km in a day no problems. I wore kevlar bike jeans,hiking boots and a semi mesh riding jacket. I would stop every hour and drink. I started off with a camelbak but lost it early in the trip. I could cruise at 60/70kph - around 5500rpm, fuel consumption was 40kpl so a normal day's ride cost less than $5 in fuel.

I often shared lodgings with backpackers and they seemed forever rushing to meet bus schedules. I rode mostly in the morning , took some paths less travelled , avoided the need to wait for shuttles to a good surf beach and I seemed to get through borders quicker.

I now head back to Europe, to pick up my motorhome and head for Austria for some skiing . My wife and I will then continue travelling through Europe and head back to NZ in October.

I have a desire to ride my V strom from UK to NZ in 2015. The initial response from the Pakistani and Iranian embassies has been positive and Myanmar now looks possible to transit. So a plan is taking place. Any advice or tips would be gratefully received. I also plan to do South America but that is further down the line.

For me, my journey through Central America on a little local bike met all and often exceeded my expectations. I felt safe, secure and had a sense of independence from the freedom the little Suzuki gave me.

It was a trip worth making

Ride Safe

Peter

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Comments

  1. Voltaire's Avatar
    Cool, I'm so envious.
  2. insomnia01's Avatar
    Another fine read Plum