Wellington and points south.....
by
, 25th December 2008 at 11:17 (8441 Views)
I don’t even really know where to begin. Its been a pretty amazing few days. The most unbelievable yet simple circumstances have unfolded for me in the last 2-3 days. Up to now I have been torn between trying to have ‘a plan’ and just letting go and seeing what comes...my mantra now.....'Stop planning your life, just live'...I rolled into Wellington, greeted by Kari. I was welcomed, fed and given a place to sleep as if I was family. She went out of her way to help me including taxi-ing me around Wellington to get my tasks done....which I did. Without her help I probably would not have achieved what I wanted to.
I then met with my veterinary employer and the hospital manager (and my soon to be new flatmate) and got a look at the clinic I will be working at....it may be a very different experience than I am used to, but I am looking forward to it. The vet clinic I worked at in the states was huge with all the latest equipment, large surgical suites, CT scan, digital radiography, large staff of highly trained vet nurses and readily available MRI--it was a referral specialty clinic with 24 hour emergency and general practice all rolled into one. My new clinic is a much smaller more traditional vet practice; not unexpected by me...but seeing is believing. The staff and vets there were very friendly, and I am really looking forward to the change that is coming for me professionally. I'm hoping for a more relaxed and collegial atmosphere. And bonus, my new flatmate seems super nice with a pleasant and warm welcoming smile and a good sense of humor. Double bonus, our interests outside of work seem to be in sync--she is a soccer player and the recreational league starts in Feb when I get there.... and she has a good friend who sounds like an active adrenaline junky..."I think you two might get along" was the message I got--welcome to Wellington!
Her really nice little flat is in a perfect location to commute from in this lush quiet suburb---near to work, near to downtown Wellington....the moral of the story....9 years in California and not once did I feel part of a community there outside of work. Less than 48 hrs in Wellington and I know I am there...part of the community. If that isn’t enough, Sue and I dash off to immigration to submit my work permit and then I’m off to catch the 3 pm Bluebridge ferry, the bike re-loaded with more things left behind for the trip south. My 3 PM ferry in fact turned out to be a 3 AM ferry, for which I am now 11 hours overdue.The smiling redhead elf at the Bluebridge counter says no problem, performs her magic and in a matter of 10 minutes has me on a competing company’s 6:15 ferry....at a cost of $17 to their company.....completely unheard of in the States or anywhere else for that matter in my experience. Merry Christmas she says with a big smile...is this a dream?....I was nearly brought to tears.
Now I have 2 hours to kill before the 6:15 Interislander departure. So I search the streets of Wellington for a New World market, buy some food for the ferry and a small bouquet of roses for my Bluebridge elf/angel. Then to a local bar for a beer. A group of six (3 men and 3 women) came in and sat at a table near the bar. After one beer, one of the guys walks over an says the others have bet $10 he can’t beat me arm wrestling....the guy is buzzed and obviously (it seems to me) the macho type, appearing to be trying to impress prettiest girl of the three. I say what the hell and we have a good go, nearly toppling a table in a drawn out match.....the ending with me sitting with them all talking and laughing and shouting me two more beers.The team leader of their group (they are all employees at an ad agency) was from the UK but in NZ for 16 years now. Telling me about how great it is living in NZ, and by the way, we’ll have to introduce you to Natalie, she owns a vet clinic on such and such street.....karma? or NZ? more instant community. Again, is this a dream?
The ferry ride was gorgeous. Not always the case I understand, but that day a beautiful day. Chatted with two other bikers, both with new bikes. James from AKL with a Kawi 1600 cc cruiser and another bloke from Blenheim with a Suzuki GSXr 1250 something or other, boots, helmet and jacket to match--he said he made the young Suzuki salesman's day....both super nice fellas, neither of whom had ridden in like 15 years. It was near dark by the time we unloaded at about 9:30pm in Picton and I headed due West on the Queen Charlotte drive, finally pulling into the Pelorus Bridge campsite at about 11 or so. Put up my tent, went to sleep, up at 7:30 the next day and out after paying for campsite ($10) and buying a fishing license.
This is where you need to pay attention again because that NZ karma comes back into play. I have been anxious for days about where I will be for Christmas...maybe feeling lonely and away from family, not 100% sure why I've been anxious, but it has been a little unsettling..."what will I do for Christmas? Where will I go? Who will I be with?". Finally I decided on Nelson, reputed to be a very liveable, fun, active place...on the bigger side for the south Island. Maybe I could find some fun there. Didn’t want to camp and didn’t want to do a back packers, I drove about aimlessly just looking for some signs, maybe a Bed and Breakfast. Stopped at the first, no vacancy at a rate of about $120 per night. Stopped at the second, $150 per night and would only book for 2 nights...third, about the same........called the 4th....."$65 per night, stay one or two, its up to you".....nice little well kept clean B&B with community bath and shower, internet, breakfast....perfect. I thought I would come to Nelson frankly because I didnt want to be camping alone some where for Christmas, but I didn’t really know what to do with myself either now that I was here. Checked in at about 10:30 and mucked around for about 2 hours.....then decided I’d go out, get some flys and fishing info and maybe find some wineries. You have to realize this place is another adventure capital....kind of .....so many things to do, you feel compelled to try them all which also makes it hard to decide which to choose.....overwhelmed with choices. So I went to town looking for the fishing store.....asked some kid on a scooter who began to explain, then said...follow me and rode off and took me right to the store....Thanks pal......no worries mate. Salesman at the store gave me a good chat, 11 all around flies, a small box and a warm feeling....like there was a fisherman’s connection, not just a sale...NO bullshit. More good karma? Then I decided to explore the wineries in this region. Hesitant to do it on wet roads (on and off rain all day) and with the very strict drinking/driving laws in this country, but thought I’d stick to just 2-3 wineries, take my time and just take small tastes. Wandered around, not really having a map to guide me just some general direction...just looking for wineries or signs to them. I found the first, a big winery and cafe. Had some tastes, bought a bottle. Big place, kind of commercial, but nice girl pouring. Then off to another place, also big, but empty. Then a third....and voila...small tasting room, served up some bread and home grown and made olive oil...and a local tour group there. The tour guide and the owner seemed to take more interest in me and my bike than the group. The tour guide, Roy, gave me a local winery map, some tips as to the best wines. I had been chatting with the woman pouring the wine and when I told her I was a fly fisher she said, “oh, Roy (the tour guide) is a fly fisherman too".....next you know, I have his card and an invitation to fish with him...just call, we’ll get on the river together. Karma?....NZ? In an instant my plans for the next few days have materialized. I knew the South Island was renowned for the trout fishing, but didn't even know there was some good fishing locally around Nelson. Turns out, the average size brown trout in these waters is about 3 lbs.....on up to 10-12 lbs! The biggest trout I've ever caught in the States out of a river is about 2 lbs!
What really amazes me is this. I do have some notion of what I personally want from this trip, but I’m just trying to keep it nothing more than a notion, only vaguely defined at best. Trying hard not to create an itinerary more than a day or two in advance. Trying hard not to create expectations for this trip......and when I seem most lost in terms of what I should do next, things come together....with such uncanny serendipity that it is downright scary...I know Kiwis are reputed to be some of the friendliest people on this earth and in just short of 3 weeks, I can attest to that wholeheartedly....but there is something else going on. I am a stranger in a new place....and if I stay open to it all, with honesty, sincerity and curiosity... and as little to no fear as possible...I am confident the adventure will continue to grow and continue to be enriching and enlightening.
....back to the B& B, I spend 45 minutes on the porch talking to a Japanese fella traveling and working in NZ to improve his English...not a life changing encounter, but eye opening for sure. Now what? its Christmas eve, and I’m hungry...walk downtown, drawn to pizza and chinese (memories past--it seems our family was always doing some last minute shopping, tree decorating or gift wrapping on Christmas eve, so we often just ordered take-away for dinnner) I settle for very cheap Chinese...'full' is what I’m after, not paying for small portion good taste. Mission accomplished for $7. Hmm, Christmas eve, a $7 chinese take away dinner, now what am I going to do, wander the streets of Nelson alone? So I wandered up to the top of Trafalgar St...cool area. The main drag just kind of dead ends at the base of this hill, with steps up to the large cathedral overlooking the town. Its quite a trendy location with brick paved streets and a little square with top end bars and restaurants...and this is the happening place....lots of people out on Christmas eve....and now more and more...and families...hmmm...people are gathering here....again, I’ve arrived without knowing it. Soon the whole square is filled with people, and they are stacked on the steps and hills up to the cathedral, very many in santa hats, most holding candles, a town band assembles and begins to play, a local international choir singing international Christmas hymns begins, and then an array of traditional hymns to which the whole square is singing along.......nothing short of AMAZING....100s of people gathered at the edge of the quaintest part of town at the base of these steps leading up to huge cathedral....so pissed (angry/frustrated...not drunk) that I did not bring my camera with me; I thought I was just going for a bite to eat. The event was about 8:15 to 9:30, sun setting about 9:10, shortly preceded by a rainbow in the sky above the band after gray and rain all day
. And when dark, people everywhere holding candles and singing Christmas carols. The sense of joy and community in the place was amazing, and so refreshing to me that I really can't explain it. Amazing. One of the best Christmas eves I've ever experienced.
Its hard to imagine what I’m feeling, like I’ve been let out of prison.... back into the real world.
And in the hour I have been sitting here on the front porch of this B&B typing this all up, on Christmas eve, I have heard passersby and or/neighbors speaking....Italian, Spanish, German and English....in one hour on Christmas eve on a quiet neighborhood street in Nelson, NZ. This place is pretty awesome. Merry Christmas!
More pics here: http://gallery.me.com/neurosurgdvm#100039