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Thread: NSR operating temps?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    25th May 2009 - 14:08
    Bike
    1988 NSR250R-4J
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    82

    NSR operating temps?

    Hay guys I was wondering what tempriture the nsr should operate at, The previous owner sold me the bike with my understanding that it had a possable overheating problem, he had put in a new thermostat but never had the chance to propally test it out.

    I just went for a short ride up and down my road only just getting to 3rd never above 50k's and keeping the revs down, the needle was sitting at about the half way mark on the gauge I will have to check but I think that is about 80? I know my z car have an ambient running temp of about 79 but I sumhow dont think the nsr should.

    Anny comments welcome cheers
    Rookie is the level above mine

    Someone told me bikes pull chicks..... its worth a try

  2. #2
    Join Date
    18th June 2007 - 16:55
    Bike
    yamaha FZR-R EXUP, 1989
    Location
    Hamilton
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    249
    Mine often sits around 1/2 way, dont know what temp that is. You know its a hot day when coolant starts bubbling out the Reservoir.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    17th January 2008 - 13:57
    Bike
    Merida
    Location
    Wellington
    Posts
    777
    My R6 likes to run at just below 80. It gets a bit warmer than that if stuck in traffic though...
    Ride fast or be last.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    25th May 2009 - 14:08
    Bike
    1988 NSR250R-4J
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    82
    Yea I guess riding around town doesnt help due to poor air flow through the radiator, Just dont want to kill the bike
    Rookie is the level above mine

    Someone told me bikes pull chicks..... its worth a try

  5. #5
    Join Date
    5th January 2009 - 22:42
    Bike
    09 Yamaha R1
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    *
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    50
    Mine runs at 65 °C normally, 55 °C when it's really cold out. Rapidly increases round town when stuck in traffic, have watched it rise as high as 100 °C.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    21st October 2005 - 20:58
    Bike
    2014 Honda NC750X
    Location
    West Auckland
    Posts
    3,478
    The last one I rode was sitting around 73 from memory.
    Nice autumn day in Bulls.....
    Only rode it for 6k though.

    Anything below 100 is good. I think it is a 6psi system?
    Boiling point with 50/50 coolant will be around 110 to 115 deg.
    Can't be bothered getting accurate figures, but my message is 100 deg is getting up there, but safe so long as you get some air over it fast.

    If it is sitting around 80 then that is okay too.... so long as it stays there on the open road... and not climb.
    Make sure the heat range of your plugs is a 9 (for NGK). 8's will make it run hotter.... better around town, but will melt if you really thrash it.

    Disclaimer: I really don't know a lot about NSR's, just enough about 2 strokes to be dangerous. (Blew up the bosses NSR at a track day ).

  7. #7
    Join Date
    25th May 2009 - 14:08
    Bike
    1988 NSR250R-4J
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    82
    Cheers for that its quite helpfull, I will have to get it out for a proper open road run and watch the gauge like a hawk.
    Rookie is the level above mine

    Someone told me bikes pull chicks..... its worth a try

  8. #8
    Join Date
    14th November 2008 - 11:09
    Bike
    The chugga chug KLR
    Location
    Kalgoorlie
    Posts
    522
    Hey there

    NSR's should run safely anywhere between 60 and 75 degrees. Anything less than 60 there is a high chance of damage begining if you start opening it up. Anything consistantly above 75 during casual riding (on a normal day, travelling at or over 50kph) means that the cooling system should definitely be checked.

    Because NSR's are performance two stroke bikes, parts are rather pricey, and (for NSR's anywhy) barrels and heads are hard to come by. I say this because, for these bikes, if not maintained and treated properly, this is one of the most common parts that can get quite damaged when things go wrong. Anything that may seem to be an issue concerning the motor, you should jump on it straight away, as the repair bill can become extreamly high if left unattended.

    A friend of mine fried the top end of his NSR, and he spent a good part of $1500 on purchasing parts from overseas to repair his mistake (lack of oil). I have owned one aswell and found them to be an extreamly fun bike to ride, and is a great entry bike to getting a larger capacity sports bike. In no way am I condoning that these are learner bikes tho.

    Also this site www.nsr-world.com has lots of technical information on NSR's which can be very useful in diagnosing the problem, and also allowing you to check things yourself if you are technically minded. This site is the closest thing I've found to a workshop manual for NSR250's.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    25th May 2009 - 14:08
    Bike
    1988 NSR250R-4J
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    82
    Yea costly I agree, it should only have done 4000k max on its new rebuild but I am very tempted to open it up maby just do the headgaskets and check the condition of the bores with out ripping it apart.

    Also I may start saving my change and look into getting the 300cc big bore kit its quite a costly mod but I know ill get the satisfaction from it.
    Rookie is the level above mine

    Someone told me bikes pull chicks..... its worth a try

  10. #10
    Join Date
    21st June 2005 - 20:11
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    My NSR got hot once, following a house bus (no air flow to radiator!) up a very steep hill, very slowly... It got pretty grumpy but quickly cooled once I fanged it past.

    They don't have a fan, so will get a bit warm in traffic (They're a race bike after all!)

    What the hey, I'll give you my list of top tips.

    Make sure the powervalves self test when you turn the ignition on! They'll whirr back and forth a bit, and check they're working as you use the bike (without flying off a cliff). If the servos stop working (and they often do at this age) you can burn your CDI out, and be in a world of shit.

    Don't munch your crank, they're $1500 each. If you do, I suggest you cut your losses and get a newer bike (if you're a masochist, get in contact with me and I can help you find a new one). Use Motul Synthetic, its a pretty blue colour and smells like victory.

    Find someone that knows tires, these are light bikes, and consequently need a tire that warms up quickly. Supersport tyres will probably stay too hard!

    Make sure your suspension is in good nick, that's the whole point of these bikes. You don't need to spen much, new fork oil will probably do.

    A bit more smoke outta one pipe when it's warming up is normal, no I don't know why.

    Don't fit oversized tyres, it'll just make it handle heavy.

    You have an MC18, they're the most powerful stock NSR! Do a wire splice modification if it hasn't been done already. NSR WORLD and Tyga performance detail this on their websites.

    If you have stock pipes, gutting them will net a good power increase. Performance ones are hardly necessary as Honda did a pretty good job at the factory.

    They're a money hole if they're in bad knick and a reliable as hell in good condition. If it's the former (which 95% are) and you haven't spent much, ride it into the ground and get your moneys worth, don't do more than a top end rebuild.

  11. #11
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    21st June 2005 - 20:11
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    Just read you're looking at the 300 kit. May I make a suggestion? NO BAD RUN NO BAD!!!!

    Enjoy it as it is and move on to a newer bike!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    11th September 2008 - 00:40
    Bike
    2000 Suzuki TL1000R
    Location
    Christchurch
    Posts
    294
    Not sure if this is any help,but my TL sits nicely around 80-84.Useless around town and stop start traffic as it gets as high as 106 before the cooling fans kick in.Keeps ya inner thighs warm tho...

  13. #13
    Join Date
    25th May 2009 - 14:08
    Bike
    1988 NSR250R-4J
    Location
    Hamilton
    Posts
    82
    Quote Originally Posted by Fumeux View Post
    Make sure the powervalves self test when you turn the ignition on! They'll whirr back and forth a bit, and check they're working as you use the bike (without flying off a cliff). If the servos stop working (and they often do at this age) you can burn your CDI out, and be in a world of shit.
    ok going by that it mite not be a good thing that the bike ither has a flat battery or non existant?

    Im trying to get it to wof spec currently, it was inspected at honda hamilton they were the first people to start it after it ahd been sitting for four months, bar the clutch needing freeing up(common problem) they were happy with how the bike ran.
    The basic things needed for the wof are tightn up the steering and fix a electrical fault, the electrical problem may be due to battery tho.

    Better get on to it befor the 28 days are up
    Rookie is the level above mine

    Someone told me bikes pull chicks..... its worth a try

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