Oops, we did it (the South Island) again... (Part 2)
Tuesday 8 March: Kaikoura, Amberley, Rangiora, Oxford, Methven, Ashburton.
We awoke to a perfect Kaikoura morning. Bright autumn sunshine, and no wind. After a bite of breakfast of locally-cured bacon and eggs, we saddled up and headed south in perfect riding conditions.
Isn’t it amazing how the presence of seal colonies beneath the road edge is more noticeable on a bike than in a car…
There are two consecutive sets of twisties to enjoy on this ride south. The first is the coast road from Kaikoura to Goose Bay that even has tunnels in which to toot. Apart from a couple of 35kmh corners, there aren’t too many surprises on this stretch – apart from the occasional startling aroma of seal colonies! Gorgeous views down the coast roll out before you and also out to sea.
Turning inland the second set of twisties arrives in the form of the Hunderlees. The run to the first summit has been straightened somewhat over the years by Transit New Zealand, but from then on it is pure enjoyment for the next 20-odd km. There are a couple of tight 25kmh corners on this section that are a bit exciting in winter when they have been lovingly sprinkled with ice grit, but the rest holds few fears.
With the twisties behind you the plains of North Canterbury open up, framed by ranges of hills either side and wonderful vistas up the Waiau and Leader rivers. The highway too opens up and so too do riders of motorcycles.
Ascending the rail overbridge at Parnassus we encountered wind in the form of a strong and gusty northwester. This accompanied us for the rest of the day’s ride to Ashburton and, in places, made riding the ST1300 distinctly sub-optimal.
From Amberley south to Oamaru, SH1 has little to commend it. It is tediously straight and populated by cages and trucks. Despite a significantly lower population than the North Island, the South’s traffic is concentrated on SH1 and avoiding it, where possible, is strongly recommended.
The back road from Amberley to Rangiora and then Highway 72 through Oxford was all new to us on bikes and is highly recommended (despite the wind). Unlike SH1, the Amberley-Rangiora road is elevated, affording views south to the Port Hills and of the fertile alluvial hinterland. It is, however, patrolled by those lovely lads in their battenburg Holdens, so a watchful eye is required. So too is Highway 72, not that we had reason to make a donation to the Consolidated Fund, but we have met bikers who have been pinged most painfully on this stretch. There are some wonderfully scenic villages on this road, such as the delightful Cust, and small towns like Oxford.
Oxford is a bright a vibrant town with a good selection of cafes. The one we chose purveyed the ubiquitous excessively milky coffee but did great steak and pepper pies!
Highway 77 through the aptly named Windwhistle and Glentunnel is a delightful road. It is well maintained, traffic is light and it has a great mix of straights and corners. The Rakaia River bridge is well worth a stop.
Once you’ve climbed out of the river gorge, it’s back onto the serious flat country, particularly when (as we did) you turn off through Methven and head to Ashburton.
This time of year in Mid-Canterbury is harvest time, and many farmers were burning crop stubble, giving an ethereal haze that appeared languid, in spite of a cracking good northwest wind.
Mrs H’s folks in Ashburton made us and our rides most welcome.
Shortly after our arrival I received a text message from Lynda Blair. She and Hamish were staying the night in a motel just around the corner from Mrs H’s folks. So we walked around for a cuppa and a yack. It’s always good to catch up with biker friends and Lynda was able to update us on her recent North Island racing exploits.
Wednesday 9 March: No ride day.
[Photo: One of the many eateries to be found at Oxford]
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Originally Posted by Hitcher
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