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Thread: APE manual tensioners on a VTR1000

  1. #1
    Join Date
    30th September 2008 - 21:38
    Bike
    2000 Honda VTR1000, 2010 Daytona 675
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    Napier
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    367

    APE manual tensioners on a VTR1000

    Hi guys (and gals),

    I have justed fitted APE manual cam chain tensioners on my VTR1000 but am a little unsure how tight to do them. The instructions say allow 1/4" to 3/8" movement in the cam chain, but this is very difficult to do, even with the valve cover off. The Superhawke forum say finger tight then back off 1/4 turn while others seem to adjsut to the point where the idle slightly drops then back off a fraction. I am getting a little confused now and dont want to 1) overtighten and prematurely wear the tensioner or 2) make it too loose and risk the chain jumping. The front tensioner is difficult to get to the locking nut as well.

    Any advise appreciated.

    Cheers
    Dale

  2. #2
    Join Date
    8th February 2008 - 18:44
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    91 GSXR 7/11
    Location
    Feilding
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    23
    Hi
    I have fitted these to many engines GS-GSX-GSXR Busa Z900-Z1100. The way I check if tension is correct is to put a spanner on the end of the crank shaft and gently rock the engine backward and forward whilst looking at the cam chain on the sprokets. Tighten up the adjuster bolt until all the slack has gone, and then back off 1/4 turn.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    30th March 2004 - 11:00
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    2001 RC46
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    Norfshaw
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    10,455
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    Hi, Dale.
    I fitted APE tensioners to my 97 VTR. I also had some problems with working out how tight to get them. After much research, and questions on Firestorm / Superhawk forums, it seemed the consensus was that you should tighten them (with the engine running) to the point where the camchain just started to get quieter. This didn't work for me as my engine was so friggin rattly, so I talked to some guys about it and I decided that if I did them up fingertight with the engine idling, it would be about the same as the tension applied by the OEM ones by the automatic tensioner. This seemed to be OK, as it wasn't applying too much pressure to the camchain slippers so that they would wear prematurely, and there was also no chance (because they can't back out like the OEM ones when the spring breaks) of the camchain misbehaving and jumping teeth.
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  4. #4
    Join Date
    30th September 2008 - 21:38
    Bike
    2000 Honda VTR1000, 2010 Daytona 675
    Location
    Napier
    Posts
    367
    Thanks guys. I ended up by firstly doing up finger tight then backing off 1/4 turn, was a bit worried might be to tight so backed off another 1/4 turn. After some more debate, I warmed the engine up with the thought that I would bak off untill you could hear the cam chain rattle and then tighten up until it quietened (like you had researchd vifferman). What that did was put it back to my original tighten then back of 1/4 turn position so I am now satisfied that things are about right. Nice to hear the cam chains have a slight whir at ideal instead of thrashing about. Now I can ride with a great more peace of mind.

    Thanks to both of you for your responses

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