Edit Edit
Neutral light works. Nothing CRC cant fix.
Charged. Sitting at 13.something Volts. No spark
Skidmark, The Pink and Grey had the ends soldered together. I will go through what you said and will let you know.
Edit Edit
Neutral light works. Nothing CRC cant fix.
Charged. Sitting at 13.something Volts. No spark
Skidmark, The Pink and Grey had the ends soldered together. I will go through what you said and will let you know.
HI,
The low oil level light should come on when cranking if it's like the later FZR's.
The single spark when you turn the key off sounds normal, i have seen that happen with electronic ignition on cars.
When you switch off the +12v via the ignition switch it collapses the electromagnetic field in the coil and produces a spark across the plugs.
I ripped the mongrel alarm out of mine too after being stuck at a servo with a crook remote.
Alarms are nightmares, they often fail and some of the installs i have seen bring tears to your eyes.
My 1989 FZR1000 loom looks very similar with the multipin safety relay box anf diode block that is connected to the igniter and the oil and neutral lights in conjunction with stand switches and clutch switches etc to inhibit the starter motor.
It's a nice system once you get an understanding of how it all fits together.
Relooming your bike yourself is one sure fire way to figure it all out but it takes ages!
Your battery should read 12.6 charged and when you get it sparking it should run at 14-14.5 volts running.
Check the main alt plug and your ignition switch carefully too as they are a known FZR problem (mine done it)
Cheers bimotabob
I've been tracing nearly all of the wires and they all seem fine.
I'm starting to think that the CDI shat itself.
The fuel pump relay is controlled throught the CDI, but when playing around with it this morning, the fuel pump didnt turn on once, probably turned ignition on and off 20 times.
During the last weeks' night sessions in the garage, I can remember the fuel pump going on only a few times, defianetly dodgy.
Is there a way to tell?
I guess swiching it with a working one is the only way.
Anyone around Mount Maunganui, Te Puke have a 87 FZR1000?
B-T
edit.
Have rewired alarm in a quick way. it performs like it did when it was removed. But has no spark.
Even more reason to believe its CDI (I think some say it's a TCI)
Crap...
Im not sure if Yamaha did it but Kawasaki and Suzuki certainly did, they build a resistor into the ignition switch, what happens is when you put the ignition on the CDI unit checks the battery voltage against the ignition feed and knows that the ignition voltage should constantly be a certain amount lower than battery voltage, if that drop is not there it will not start cos it thinks its being "hotwired", likewise if the feed is missing it will not start anyway. Sometimes the resistor gets hot and melts back into the switch and no longer makes contact.
Like I say I dont know if it uses this system but its worth a look.
Another thing worth checking is the side stand switch and wiring. These things can get dirty and lose contact inside.
When i fit alarms to bikes i always interrupt this wire to stop the bike starting with the alarm set to on. There may be a kill relay on that wire (hidden somewhere on the bike) They are common 30 or 40 amp auto relays with 5 terminals on the base. Only 4 term's are used. If you find that join term's #30 to #87 and you have blastoff.
ZX Rider
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks