OOOOOOOOOooooooooooooo one of my fav topics. But Im not weighing into it this time. Looks like Quasi might be getting closer to the truth at last.
Keep your hair on Quasi (giggle) Mobil 1 is a good oil.
The art of being wise is knowing what to overlook.
The 3 main tasks the oil needs to under take are...
1)To maintain a low friction film...
2)To transfer heat away from ..hot areas ie under pistons
3)Manage contaminants in the oil.
It is this third point that determines oil change intervals more than any thing else. The contaminants cause wear between moving parts, gears, pistons in bores, followers on cams etc.
Particulate contaminants come from 3 main sources....
1) Internally generated from metal to metal contact or from clutch plate friction....
2) Products of combustion, mainly soot particles (one of the tasks of engine oil is to prevent small soot particles in the oil from combining froming larger abrasive particles
3) Externally introduced, through the air filter into cylinder and past rings into the oil, or With the new oil itself...
New oil is not clean, and lube companies will not state a cleanliness standard for their oil or agree to comply with any standard. If you want to be super fussy as I am with work oil....It is filtered through a 3 micron filter into the storage tank then circulated through the 3 micron filter before use. I have had examples of oil with 50 hrs use being cleaner than the new oil because the equipment filters has remove particles that were in the new oil.
When you have selected an oil....for me always a 5W40 synthetic, change the oil and the filter at or before the recomended interval...I always look at about 80% of the recomended interval, my riding is mostly highway/country.
Unless racing or particularly heavy duty, 2000 km is a bit of an overkill.
I'm a fairly recent convert to Motul.
With the threat of global warming and current state of the environment, the world needs all the help it can get.
Motul 300V is definitely the greenest oil on the market!![]()
Nunquam Non Paratus
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