Will I get my 100 ready in time for Taupo?

[husaberg]

KTM 50 I have posted these before just diven of the rotor with a simple tang they can be removed and put to the side without disturbing the water pipes mag etc.
The same pump is used on a 65 and probably others.

Ps they are not that dear and work.

[F5 Dave]

so KTM pump for less than $25? I've just ordered some $7 Bi-Metalic switches to play with. Stupidly simple, as long as the battery has charge they will start at set temp & turn off when below it. No remembering if switch is on.

[husaberg]

so KTM pump for less than $25? I've just ordered some $7 Bi-Metalic switches to play with. Stupidly simple, as long as the battery has charge they will start at set temp & turn off when below it. No remembering if switch is on.

Pump $25 or $37 switch what $7 each=$14 wiring....$ battery..... +$ for everything else.....$ Relays...$... Fuse....$ Weight of battery place to put it, strap to retain it etc........

Yes you are right an Electric pump is stupidity simple Dave........ and Cheap as well.

Maybe you and my lady should set up an accountancy firm together.......

[koba]

Ps they are not that dear and work.

What is your idea of "not that dear?"

[speedpro]

same pump as listed by Dave without the tap, only $29

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boat...-429873881.htm

[husaberg]

What is your idea of "not that dear?"

more often I hear "Don't think your not putting that, in there."

Aftermarket complete with mag cover and everything else is $99 US but often Gen parts in NZ are cheaper than aftermarket in the US.
Aust parts are cheaper again these like these US ones are Chinese rip offs, probably
But the totally complete ignition on EBAY Aust is $75 well most of the time http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/KDF-OEM-K...item2569d90170
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KTM-50-Pro-S...-/250915297085
http://www.motomx.com/ktm50_engine.html

[Grumph]

same pump as listed by Dave without the tap, only $29

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/boat...-429873881.htm

The capacity quoted for that pump is interesting....The Bosch washing machine/Mercedes heater pump which was common on the 50's and 80's in GP's was around 3 1/2 gallons per minute capacity....

BUT - unless a thermostat was used it would overcool motors very easily.

I'd reckon capacity of this one should be enough.

[husaberg]

The capacity quoted for that pump is interesting....The Bosch washing machine/Mercedes heater pump which was common on the 50's and 80's in GP's was around 3 1/2 gallons per minute capacity....

BUT - unless a thermostat was used it would overcool motors very easily.

I'd reckon capacity of this one should be enough.

My guess would be that would be the open flow of the pump only.
interestingly the Bosch pump you quote was made for pumping hot water for long periods.........
As was the pump you quoted for the shower..............

[TZ350]

TBUT - unless a thermostat was used it would overcool motors very easily.

What about a temp sensor, cheap from Jacar or Pick a Part that switches the pump on/off at a pre detemined cylinder or head temperature, that way you don't over cool and the pump only sucks power when its needed.

[Grumph]

Good luck with temp regulating electrically....I worked for years for an electrical contractor specialising in heating - room and water incl solar. I've seen first hand thank you just how reliable switching is - not - and except for Canty recently the houses weren't vibrating...
On the other hand there are literally millions of radiator thermostats working reliably around the world - and you have a range of temperatures available too.

Keep it simple....

[husaberg]

Good luck with temp regulating electrically....I worked for years for an electrical contractor specialising in heating - room and water incl solar. I've seen first hand thank you just how reliable switching is - not - and except for Canty recently the houses weren't vibrating...
On the other hand there are literally millions of radiator thermostats working reliably around the world - and you have a range of temperatures available too.

Keep it simple....

With the Grumph on this one.

I had my central heating priority valve fail last year.
As the other electric thermostat had already failed in the boiler or failed afterwards. Total cost of the damage, Oh about $2800 Still have to fit the upstairs section too btw.

It has a less efficient but bomb proof setup now.

[F5 Dave]

Well I've tried my biMetalic switches in a cup of water with a temp probe & a meter. They aren't a super ideal range. There were two to try in the normally closed typre 50/35 & 70/50. crap I've just notices another range that would have been better with 60/45. that's $20 I've wasted & another $7 to buy the better one.

So either way the 50/35 runs too cool & the 70/55 too hot, but it would be the closest I have. The way they work is it closes the contact when the water temp first gets to 70 degrees & turns (the pump in this case) off at 55, so looking at it the engine would never over cool & run in the range of 55-70 degrees.

Running connected to the head rather than the radiator that is about right to turn off. The 70 is a bit to high in practise, but with a running engine you would ge to that temp in warm up lap & the pump would turn on. It would then run all the time unless it actually got the engine under 55 degrees. Then the worst that can happen is it will heat up to 70 degrees & turn on again. Probably in 1/2 a lap & be several laps before it over cooled again.

This has got to be so much better than air cooled. RZ350s etc run about 70 degrees std.

I'll try it with a pump attached & then look at getting the 60/45 one. Concern of constantly over cooling could be addressed with a temp gauge & some tape much as a mechanical system goes. I doubt you'd have the cooling capacity to get it down there on a racing engine anyways.

Wiring is simplicity itself. Battery ground to frame. Pump ground to frame. Battery positive to switch, switch to pump. The end.
Fuse?, pfft.

[F5 Dave]

. . .
On the other hand there are literally millions of radiator thermostats working reliably around the world - and you have a range of temperatures available too.

Keep it simple....

Hey fair call, but there are also millions of temp fan switches like the one TZ's first pic out there working fine. If you got worried you could fit a switch to bypass & just flick it if the temp goes up. Sketchys one just runs all the time, but it does overcool if he doesn't tape the rad.


And your range of temps for the thermos isn't that good when you want to run mid 50s. Cars are often around 90, big bikes 80s & 2 strokes often 70. Race bikes want cooler ideally. Higher temp for road 2 strokes avoids chance of over cooling in winter perhaps, but probably best area for least wear & best economy.

[Sketchy_Racer]

Bi-metalic switches are used to switch the fans on and off in most cars with electric fans. Only the modern cars have active speed control on the fans to help with economy.

I've used a little jay car kit in my tow wagon to run electric fans so that I can control both fans independently and also turn them on and off at varying temperatures, it could easily be used on the bucket to run the electric water pump as all you need is some sort of resistor that changes with the temperature then you can just program it to turn on at certain temperature and change the hysteresis. A little bit spendy at $60 though. (Bucket spendy that is)

I am keen to see how yours goes with the temp switch I think i'll do the same as it will also aid warm up time as mine takes ages at the moment.

[F5 Dave]

yeah I bought a spare for you in case you wanted one, but the lower temp one which on reflection is too low. As I don't have the jacket on you can have the hotter one to play with, I'll drop it in when I'm past for the pipe.


I wanted to avoid the electronic version as noise from ign can cause all sorts of grief & I wanted it simple.