Will I get my 100 ready in time for Taupo?

[husaberg]

So the saga of the Ignitech & the Evil of the Honda Motor Corporation;

The stator is on nicely once I sourced some long cs screws & I've pinned the base to stay in one location as its all SW positioned from now.

The loom I'd got pretty much there, but it was time to try it out.

No spark, mess around, mess around. Try with & without battery. Find an issue with the connectors I'm using. No spark still.

Hmm, that battery lead is warm. Ekk.

So try just the output from the regulator spinning the engine with rear wheel. (-)12.5 V. - MINUS?!?!!

I hadn't had a schematic of a CR, but the input was pretty easy & there was a black wire & a browny/red. Those two clearly are the rectified regulated output. Just Honda chose to use the Black wire for Positive. When I turn it over I see a thin thin stripe of red on that wire.

You Pricks, that's just Evil. Red & black wire was too difficult?

Anyway now that's fixed. With a battery to the system the igni box buzzes slightly, but draws no current & I can't get a spark. Hope I haven't goosed it. Didn't have the sw loaded on my laptop, so I'll try communicate with it later, I didn't have the right cable either but last night whilst lying awake worked out I could plug it in using the 3" of cable fitted.

I have a wiring diagram for the Cr's here

Honda even evilly transposed the CR500 and the CR250 in the Hayes manual.
Only thing i remember and take for granted with the ondas was blue is right (for the indicators)
I was going to try and find a GSXR 6 or similar tacho....
I guess it would read half but got confused weather i would or not?

[F5 Dave]

yeah I have one too & it sez red & green, must be different year.

[husaberg]

yeah I have one too & it sez red & green, must be different year.

I just noticed it also says 97-98 new models similar (Using the wrong, but obviously right, CR250 97-98 "cause it has a PJ solenoid diagram" as i said)

[F5 Dave]

Well I haven't bricked the igni which is encouraging to say the least. I can get it to talk to the Lapps and spark using the test fire function but can't get it to fire otherwise.
Says wrong polarity no signal but changes its mind every so often. Odd but no sparks. Not helping tuning process for this weekend.

oh yeah could adjust tachometer output in test mode but didn't have one to plug in

[speedpro]

Rob helped me get mine going. There were odd fault indicators initially with the trigger signals. Rob probably still has my configuration on the ESE laptop. You can have it to get going if it helps.

[F5 Dave]

Thanks was thinking that might help. Also considering if your set up is limited by key position to a max advance? Still uncertain how they calculate it if different to zeal I've used on the 500.

[speedpro]

In the Ignitech software in the "bike" tab there is a checkbox for "no lobe length check". That could be something worth testing. I have a problem with the laptop and can't check if I saved my configuration on it.

[F5 Dave]

Thanks i'll give it a look

[F5 Dave]

Well my first big issue was just that I didn't tick the 'program on change' box so changes I made didn't occur, sparks followed pretty quickly thereafter once I'd figured that.

Next was I had to start the bike to get the timing sorted.

A short foray to the dyno got me one step forward & 2 back. Got best power level so far but worse every change thereafter. Plugs I were using were left overs & fouled up with lots of dicking around changing curves on the lappy by myself while bike was running down on dyno (no starter on dyno so have to keep bike running but not over heat so only do a change or two). Need more hands next time.

Either way I have to try find a suitable short reach resistor plug for the weekend. After that I'll finish the new WC head which will take longer plugs.

Sure is pretty peaky currently with a big hole before power, but trying to tune it out was pointless with crappy plugs. Hadn't bought any more as expected to be on long reach plugs by now.

Hard to get used to switching the bike on & off on the dash rather than the kill switch I've had on every race and dirt bike for the past 25 years.


Shift light is pretty. Not sure if it will be sunlight readable yet.

Kaitoke this weekend. unless it is filthy wet.

[speedpro]

Give it heaps of advance in the mid range, that'll get rid of that hole, in the power curve. You may find another hole though, about 1/2 way round on the third lap.

I ended up with a flat timing curve on my MB. We took a few degrees out right at the top but it would have been fine without doing that.

It is pretty cool being able to dick with the timing. Dyno tests years ago pointed to huge gains in the mid-range on my TS100 if I could advance the timing in the mid range. We're talking from 9hp to 15hp. Advancing the timing with the fixed curve killed the top end though.

[F5 Dave]

Well it was a bit soggy to 5000 & giving it conservative 20deg dropping off cleaned things up quite nicely. My big drop is at 11,000 which is not a pretty place to have it, that said the plugs were old & crap & non resistor, but I've found Supercheap sell resistor short reach BR9HS for $6 on special so I've bought a couple for the weekend & will then move over to Long reach fine wire plug on WC head.

Mike I've considered running the water pump with a relay & using the output 1 that I can't think of a good use as it turns on after 4 seconds. Currently I just have it attached to rail. That said even with battery disconnected it seems to start right up.

Maybe its just safer, if the relay fails wp turns off = bad.

[speedpro]

My pump is hardwired to the generator reg/rec output. The engine starts in a few steps even after 3-4 weeks without use.

[F5 Dave]

well it was hosing on Sunday, nearly left to go play on the dyno but was talked into racing.

Had some teething issues due to slap dash preparation (like the battery wasn't fitted, but I'd pulled the lead cover insulator back to run the timing light & that was grounding stopping sparks.

At the end of the day it was going quite well. Certainly fast when up on the plane, but needs more work below.

What I can't seem to fix is launch from starts. I suspect it is the RGV carb just doesn't like high revs low- mid throttle position. Splutters like a bitch & just falls over & takes a while to clear. Then front wheel claws the sky as you chop it into 2nd.

Maybe its the needle, maybe I need to go up on the pilot or something, but it works well enough in the dry while riding it, but has always been hit/miss on starts.



Another option is I just try fit the mondo carb & be done with it, see if I can get that to work any better.

My shift light is pretty & actually is helpful in absence of a tacho (must try fix that RS one some day).

Anyways the next step is finish the WC head & back to the dyno.

[F5 Dave]

Well the LC head is pretty close to done. Got some outlets welded on & was convinced to weld the front section to the top section for strength as the pipe will be pulling on it. Sounded reasonable. Had to warm up the Devcon as it was a bit old, but got soft enough. I also glued in a splitter so if at a later date the water is piped in at a bit of an angle it shouldn't favour one side.

Well it definitely looks 'Bucket'. . or Russian. if I get carried away I'll knock the sharp edges off & give it a shot of etch.

The more observant of you might notice that there are no holes to bolt this to the engine, but I will continue the existing holes from underneath. No point giving myself the pressure of lining everything up before it was glued. I will however have to line up where I have the dowels on the other head, maybe with some form of stencil, engineering blue & clear plastic sheet.

Pump is hard wired on. Temp gauge fitted & Det gauge as well, though I have to loom fiddly coax loom & connector. M8 hole on side of head is for sensor.

[jasonu]

Well the LC head is pretty close to done. Got some outlets welded on & was convinced to weld the front section to the top section for strength as the pipe will be pulling on it. Sounded reasonable. Had to warm up the Devcon as it was a bit old, but got soft enough. I also glued in a splitter so if at a later date the water is piped in at a bit of an angle it shouldn't favour one side.

Well it definitely looks 'Bucket'. . or Russian. if I get carried away I'll knock the sharp edges off & give it a shot of etch.

The more observant of you might notice that there are no holes to bolt this to the engine, but I will continue the existing holes from underneath. No point giving myself the pressure of lining everything up before it was glued. I will however have to line up where I have the dowels on the other head, maybe with some form of stencil, engineering blue & clear plastic sheet.

Pump is hard wired on. Temp gauge fitted & Det gauge as well, though I have to loom fiddly coax loom & connector. M8 hole on side of head is for sensor.

Fuck mate that looks 'factory'!