I heard they were mucking around with 2 stroke motorbike engine powered jet boats...
Forum whore
I heard they were mucking around with 2 stroke motorbike engine powered jet boats...
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Probably who knows, but after his 750 triple with RM250 barrels the next step was a V6 with RS or TZ barrels.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
zoom ahead 10 months, can't even get myself to Taupo this year, but starting early for BOB.
Well here we go again. The story so far. A mate had welded up the water cooling rather too enthusiastically & buggered the whole barrel beyond redemption. This is the bit where I try against hope to recover this as I haven’t the time to start from scratch at the moment (although I have a donor barrel, ha-ha).
So what I have done is mill the side off the area that leaks water into the barrel. I have then flowed JB Weld (like Devcon) over the affected area. Should survive ok as it has the water flowing over it, & then glued a cover over the window. Next step is to bolt the head on using a heap of RTV as the o-ring hasn’t been machined yet & the head. . . well the head is another screw up that the same chap got stuck into maching a chamber, but it has a 4mm squish band & a super wide shallow chamber with a high compression. I can go slightly Toroidal to reduce the com, but the squish area is so small my MSV will be low.
Ahh WTF it will do for now.
Where was I? oh yeah testing the barrel for porosity. With the head bolted to the barrel I will fit short lengths of radiator hose & two bungs, one with a tyre valve so I can pressurise the test setup & drop it in a bucket of water to see where it leaks, or hopefully doesn’t.
So where does this leave me?
If it doesn’t leak then I have a set up that I can bolt together & run. A few compromises like the head & like the sub ports that may over heat. And the water pump that turns backwards (same mate 13 years ago insisted he knew which way it was supposed to turn), & the ignition rotor that I need to finish re riveting & a pipe that is probably a bit short & just a throw together.
If it all goes to poos I have a set of cases & an aircooled barrel that I can start again with, but that means a total remount of the engine in the frame.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
well not a total success. There was a big leak in the outside of the head but I have plugged that now (tried to use my finger during the test) & a small leak in the head mating surface, to be expected. Also there was leaks out of the manifold screw holes. Oh well they get screws in them so eliminate those. But I did think I saw bubbles from the problem area of the barrel. Have to reseal the other bits & try test again this weekend. Hmm! Also the head is now very well stuck into the barrel as I used a heap of sealant for the test.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
Hey Dave, it sounds like you would be better to smash it with a big hammer and start again. Trying to run something with significant issues like these is a recipe for disaster as you well know.Originally Posted by F5 Dave
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Well I sort of did that (start again) with the aircooled 125 engine I repowered the bike with a few years back, but that wasn't stunning so I decided to revert back to this one.
My start again fall back is in my new std barrel & cases. But the (remaining) clever thing about the old cases is the full case reed. It was a barsteward to do but gives me clearance clarence for the carb in the RS frame. However yer old mate Picklet has given me an idea about a year ago which has been festering slowly in the grey matter.
If I can get the barrel to seal I am up & running & can test the water pump with a drill. It should still pump, but at a reduced efficiency. That should be enough to prove the concept, so I kinda don't want to waste any more time if it isn't going to get sorted out.
I should start on a new head now as that would work with either set up. I don't have one but I have an idea. Best I go see Ulrich.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Forum whore
Don't let it be your demise...
Long Haired Yobbo
Are Waterpumps generally all the same way or could you graft on another on with the blades the other way around?
Heinz Varieties
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
it's an impeller, whether it hits or departs from the front. + would be a sod to machine. It will likely be ok enough,
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Long Haired Yobbo
Ahh, right!
Duh!
Heinz Varieties
Bucket Racer/Crasher
I made my impeller from a disc which was curved on the front face and had 2 slots ground from one side to the other into which I brazed fins. I slowly ground the fins down till the pump body fitted over them. Worked a treat. I made a new shaft to replace the standard TS100 oil pump drive shaft and just bolted it to one end.
Anyone who has done a watercooled bucket will tell you the pump is the biggest pain in the ass.
just go with an electric one.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
yeah electric has advantages for sure, but disadvantage of always having to have charged battery & some control electronics or rely on a switch & memory in the heat of the moment.
Push & go has it's appeals.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Well I've had the o-ring groove done on the barrel. I have bought some Chemweld that is used for fixing porous blocks. It is supposed to find its way into the holes & block them without affecting heat transfer.
There were all sorts of instructions to do with idling for 20 min, disconnecting upper rad hoses etc etc. All related to car engines. I decided that the go was to seal the old head on the barrel & fill it with this mix & some water & throw the whole plot in a pot on the stove (while wifey was out of course). I pressurised it with a pump & left it at about 70 deg (for 20 min as per instruction). Then leave for 3-4 days they say. I'll pressure test it again, but I've been giving it a pump every so often & it seems ok. We'll see how this goes.
The new head is on the lathe (where I made a start before Christmas) & will be a simple design (thanks Sketchy for giving me the metal).
If it is ok I'll put it back together & fire it up. I bought some clear hose pipe & will make the last connection to the rad with it. That should last long enough to tell me if there is any substantial circulation or whether I need to make a new simple impeller.
Heck if it runs ok I'll have to think about the running gear as a few things have been robbed, but there's enough to dyno it etc.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Long Haired Yobbo
Awesome, I think, still not so sure as I'll have to race against it!
Heinz Varieties
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Hey! it actually worked! Dumped it in a bucket (oh the Irony) of water & pumped it up with no bubbles.
Measured the com on the old on the piss head after I reshaped the close bit of the squish with a stone bit (4 jaw in lathe & I didn't want to change it). Bit high, but will do for now, esp as stinger is 125 sized. This will just to get going & test the water pump etc. Later I'll fit the new head (on lathe now).
Engine in frame, header on, electrics, carb. Just needs the chain & rest of the pipe & I'll fire it up & then add some water & clear hose & add some dye without mixing it to see if the pump flows well enough.
Front end & rear wheel/brake footpeg combo need some time before I could race it in anger, but it will get me on the path to seeing if it is viable. If it seizes solid on the dyno I'll start with the new barrel & do something differently that I have planned.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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