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Thread: Rebuilding the GP100

  1. #31
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    They should turn freely. It's not in gear is it? Should still turn OK even if it is I think.

  2. #32
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    4th November 2003 - 00:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henk View Post
    They should turn freely. It's not in gear is it? Should still turn OK even if it is I think.
    Tried turning in gear and in neutral, doesn't seem to make any difference.
    The Unknown Rider

  3. #33
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    4th February 2005 - 07:32
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    Do the shafts turn at all? Been a while since I've had anything that far apart but from memory you should be able to turn either shaft and with some effort both of them with the box in gear.

  4. #34
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    20th November 2002 - 11:00
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    With my TF I had to hit it with a soft face hammer on the end of the shaft. Turned freely after that. Next time I had to the same thing.
    Funny cos with the AX I never needed to.

  5. #35
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    The MB did the same thing... I think Sully may have used a similar method to Skunk's.....(Give it the bash)

  6. #36
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    30th September 2008 - 09:31
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    With my GP100 I had the same problem, To find what was wrong I assembled the cases with one shaft at a time to find which one was binding. Each shaft should have some end float, 0.25-0.5mm. Turned out I hadn't seated one of the bearings properly.

    Other problems I have heard of was a selector draging on the bottom of the grove in the gear (could happen with a mix and match gearbox from different years I suppose) and the small washer on the end of the output shaft was to thick.

  7. #37
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    26th June 2005 - 21:11
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    Give the shafts a medium whack on the end of them to seat the bearings in. When you bolt the cases together the interference fit of the bearings mean that there is still a large amount of side load on the bearing, causing the stick that you are getting. They just need a whack to push the bearings fully into their seats and you'll be away laughing.


  8. #38
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    4th November 2003 - 00:41
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    Good advice

    A couple of gentle taps and she's turning nice and freely
    The Unknown Rider

  9. #39
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Yeah they usually make a nice creak/crack noise.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  10. #40
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    That'll be your collarbone you are listening to.

  11. #41
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    4th November 2003 - 00:41
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    To cut, or not to cut...that is the question.

    I'm now putting the rotary valve assembly back on so I need to decide if I'm going to open up the disk...problem is that you only get one shot at these things.

    I'm thinking I might go half way between the GP100 & GP125 opening...surely that would be OK.
    The Unknown Rider

  12. #42
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    16th November 2006 - 23:46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slingshot View Post
    I've got a few questions about putting my GP100 motor back together, the first one is rhetorical.

    - Why did I think it was a good idea to fix something that wasn't broken.
    - Should I put some locking compound on the outside of the bearings to keep them from spinning in the housing...or is this not necessary?
    - I've got a new gasket set..the question is should I use a gasket between the crank case halves? And should I use goopy stuff to make the seal better?

    I'm sure I'll have more questions, but answers to the above would be handy to start with.

    Cheers John
    10 Characters.

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  13. #43
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    Have a look at the Two Smoke turning thread and the ESE Team thread. One of them has details... Search might help.

  14. #44
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    4th November 2003 - 00:41
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    A year on and I've finally got my shit together.

    Valve assembly, clutch and right side cover...done.

    Flywheel and stuff to be sorted tomorrow night


    Thanks for the motivation Skunk.
    The Unknown Rider

  15. #45
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    11th December 2004 - 20:46
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