Oxford Heated Grips - Need them re-wired

[vifferman]

Does your light come on automatically, meaning that they'd start up with the light coming on; or do you need to turn your light on manually (which would mean still having to turn something on/off)?

The Oxford ones I've got need to be turned on, regardless of how/where they're hooked up. Mine are hooked up to my accessory fusebox, which is connected to the battery via a relay, so NOTHING works unless the key is on. The only accessory I've got that's not connected to the fusebox is the cigarette lighter plug, as I figured I might sometimes need that permanently on.
Personally, I think that while the Oxfords being set up to be wired directly to the battery makes them easy to install, it's also a dumb idea. If they supplied them with a built-in relay and instructions on how/what to connect this up to, it would be more betterer.

Outlawtorn: it's not hard to set your grips up with a relay. Buy one from Supercrap, Repco or an autoelectrician. A 10-amp one would probably do, but it won't hurt if you go bigger. You'll also need some female spade connectors, and some wire.

Disconnect one of the battery terminals - the earth (negative is best).
On the positive wire for the heated grips, cut it between the grips and the fuse, so that it has the ring terminal, the fuse, and a few inches of wire. Bare each end where you've cut it, and put a spade connector on both.
The one connected to the ring terminal and fuse should be plugged into the 'Power In' terminal on the relay (30), the other one into the power terminal (87).
Make another wire with a spade connector on one end, and plug this onto the switched terminal of the relay (86). Bare the other end, and connect it to something that is only 'live' when the key's on. Anything handy to the battery will do - the power to the taillight is a good choice.
To connect this, you're going to need to bare some wire, or use a piggyback spade connector of the right gender, or one of those horrible blue connectors that cut into a wire.
The last terminal of the relay (85) needs to be grounded to the frame or negative terminal of the battery, using another length of wire and another female spade connector.

The relay itself can be mounted anywhere convenient - even zip tied to something under the seat. The relays themselves are usually water-resistant, but the terminals are not, and you don't want them shorting on anything. I covered my whole relay and the terminals with a short length of bicycle innertube.

If you need more info, PM me.

[scracha]

I've had a couple and wire them up to the lights, that way they only come on when the engine is running. Make sure you use an inline fuse. They should have their own switch too so you can switch em off and not get toasty hands in summer.

[davebullet]

USe the canyonchasers link posted by slofox and buy a 12v automotive relay from dick smith (narva from memory - only about $7) - some wire and ring terminals for battery connection (and a terminal strip / block) and you are done. We run our hotgrips this way on both of our bikes - no issues.

[outlawtorn]

Hi guys, just wanted to let everyone know that the re-wiring went great. Everything was smooth and easy and me and my mate did a much better job than the 'professional' installation done at Colemans. The only hickup we encountered was the jumper required on the distribution block, which I forgot to buy but we created our own loops which did the job fine. All the controls are nicely tucked away now, wiring is a dam site neater and the bike is looking a lot better as a result. Thanks again slofox for the link and to everyone else for their advice.

Cheers
John

[slofox]

... but we created our own loops which did the job fine.

I had to do the same thing - none of the shops I visited knew what I was talking about when I asked for a jumper......

Good to hear it all went well. Enjoy your warm hands!

[CookMySock]

my mate did a much better job than the 'professional' installation done at Colemans.

This is no slight on colemans, or any bike shop who has to work to a quote or a schedule.

Us back-yarders can sit down with the crimp tool and the heatshrink for two hours and make a perfect job that you could eat off, as we do it for the art and zen of it, not money. Bike shops have harsher realities, unless you have a fat wad of cash and directly specify you want it gold plated.

Steve

[outlawtorn]

This is no slight on colemans, or any bike shop who has to work to a quote or a schedule.

Us back-yarders can sit down with the crimp tool and the heatshrink for two hours and make a perfect job that you could eat off, as we do it for the art and zen of it, not money. Bike shops have harsher realities, unless you have a fat wad of cash and directly specify you want it gold plated.

Steve

I definitely agree there, I am not taking the piss out of Colemans, but I now know for future reference that I can do a more thorough job then they can. I'll always be loyal to Colemans, even when they charge me close of $400 for a service....farking expensive, but hey.

[sinned]

I have just had Oxford heated grips fitted and they worked a treat. However, I left them on over night and the battery didn't have enough grunt to start the bike. Jumper to the car battery was required.

So this raises the question of how effective the Oxford 11.5 volt turn off point is for the grips. Sure the battery had enough juice left to light every thing up but not to crank the motor.

So I have fitted a relay which is activated from the tail light circuit. The relay now feeds the grips and radar detector.

The on and heat lamps on the Oxford controller are not bright enough to be seen in sunlight - that is my excuse for leaving the grips on. However, there is a risk that someone could flick the grips on when the bike is parked up and then at the end of the day it won't start.

Try this idea...worked a treat for me...

Yep more of less what I did with push on lugs directly onto the relay. The only substantial bit of kit is a tiny relay.

Recent Oxford grip models are designed to be wired direct to the battery because they need 13V to run. They also have a cut out so that they turn off at 11.5V, so if they are working as they should it's impossible for them to run the battery flat. I have a set on the Shiver, and that feature seems to work well.

Off limited value I suggest.

Yeah but can you start your bike with 11.5V? I can't and need at least 12.6V to crank the triple!

In saying that, I have my grips wired directly to the battery.

Easy to fix and possibly just enough room around the battery to fit the relay on the triple.

The relay I fitted is a Narva P/No 72386BL from Repco - cost $18.00. I had the automotive connectors and a bit of wire so it was a cheap fix.

[CookMySock]

When I was using the oxford controller, it would turn off in just a few minutes after the engine was stopped.

I destroyed controller after controller (probably from a stator fault to ground), so I threw it in the bin and wired the grips up directly.

My bars are solid, and conduct a lot of the heat away. On my comet, the bars are hollow and they get really hot. Too hot perhaps.

Steve

[ready4whatever]

put your switch right by your ignition key so theres no way you'll forget.

or have a push kill switch like the ones on bench grinders etc and put it on your seat so when your arse is on it it turns on

or have an extra long fin from your air cooled engine connected onto your bars so they warm up

[2wheeldrifter]

How about this. By a cheap mercury switch from Dick Smith, and install it inline so that the grips only come on if the bike is vertical, and turn off when the bike is on its side stand.

Good idea... so when he gets some decent lean angles on his M50 his grips will turn off.... then on..... then off.... then on....

Dont lean and dont ride roads with corners and you'l be sweet!

[outlawtorn]

Good idea... so when he gets some decent lean angles on his M50 his grips will turn off.... then on..... then off.... then on....

Dont lean and dont ride roads with corners and you'l be sweet!

Now that you mention it, that would be hilarious!!!!

[awayatc]

relay as has been said.....
direct wired to battery but only turns on when you turn on ignition....
couple of dollars and an hour or so of fiddling.....
No problem

[mouldy]

relay as has been said.....
direct wired to battery but only turns on when you turn on ignition....
couple of dollars and an hour or so of fiddling.....
No problem

You are correct , must be either wired to battery or go through a relay or you will toast the controller

[dipshit]

I am going to be running an accessory with a relay off the battery triggered from the taillight circuit.

However quite a few articles on doing this recommend running a diode off the switch + to protect circuitry from a spike....

"The coil creates a magnetic field which turns back on itself when power is removed, creating a power surge of little current but very high voltage. This can damage electronic devices in the circuit if left without this added safety device"

http://www.ripper1.com/tech/wiring.php

Is a diode a good idea or is the taillight/lights circuit enough to soak up a voltage spike before it reaches more sensitive electrical components on a modern GSXR?