i have seen this but can fine it try search best oil lol.
what is the best to stroke oil you can get and were to get it from? i dont care a bout price
i have seen this but can fine it try search best oil lol.
what is the best to stroke oil you can get and were to get it from? i dont care a bout price
STOP STEALING THE GOVErMENT HATES COMPETION
For bikes with injectors,
Motul 600
For premix
Motul 800
Very clean burn, very high quality.
Im sure there are a few others, but I havent tried them myself.
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Silkolene,ester based synthetic - the best you can get.Actualy any synth is pretty good.The ultimate is the castor/synth mix - modern castor oils don't gum.Smell great too....some of the synth oils really stink.
I to like Motul 800 (premix), but have been told that it could be hygroscopic.
As some bike's seem to end up stuffing their big-ends or their main bearings. So I have read.
I think that you must to keep the mix fresh and run your motor after washing to make sure that every thing is dry in the motor.
That is to make sure the big-end and main bearings are free of all moisture.
I know when I use to road race the guy's that had two strokes would only mix fuel that intended to use and if it was not used they would dump it.
This could of been a hang up from Castrol R, I'm not sure.
I like it and have used it for years, but did have one motor blow it's main bearings.
It could have been due for a rebuild as I had craned that bike for a year or two.
Feel the fear and do it anyway
Don't confuse education with intelligence.
There are alot of highly educated idiots out there.
I use Silkolene in my bucket (premix). Seems to work.
I use Castrol TTS fully synthetic, seems pretty good, it's quite cheap too, only $80 for 4 litres from supercheap.
Doesn't smoke thoughwhich sort of defeats the purpose of having a 2 stroke?!
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Two Stroke, the pinnacle of engine design
use fully synthetic, i reccomend castrol TTS - at your local supercheapauto 25 bucks a litre - also at cycletreads -
best smell - highest protection at HI rpm
If you have an oil injection system Put a litre in and dont worry about it till a month later when your oil light comes on, when that comes on put another 500ml in and repeat filling it up in 500ml increments a couple of times then just top up every few days in small amounts depending on use
The reason for running the oil out till the light comes on is if there is oil already in the tank, it can react with the new oil and form a gluey like substance.. not what you want to pump into your engine if it makes it that far.
If you want to run on the premix system you want to mix the oil with the fuel at about 40 to 1, thats about 500ml to a tank. mix the fuel and oil in a bucket and stir.
Another good one is elf fully synthetic 2 stroke
I am not one to bag on others opinions but I dont paticulary like motul
I know they make alot of oils, 2 stroke 4 stroke fork oils transmission - the list is endless
I think they make better 2 stroke oil for dirt bikes, I dont find them paticulary good for 2 stroke roadbikes.
Confident the aprilia rsv4, IS the one
I've always used either Castrol TTS or A747, A747 is a castor based oil and I ran this in my TZ250 it is not suitable for injector systems or older lower revving two strokes and I think it has now been superseded by something else
What is your application?
My CRM has lived on Castrol TTS, so I'll continue to use it.
Hayden - Evidence that even the mediocre can achieve great things.
((U+C+I) x (10-S))/20 x A x 1/(1-sin(F/10))
I have been using Putoline TT Extra or Putoline MX7 (both fully synthetic) at a 50:1 mix for years. Having just taken the barrel & head off for the first time in over 3 years of hard and regular riding, I was seriously impressed at the condition of all parts. The barrel & head were spotless, there was minimal carbon showing on the piston crown and no carbon build up in the exhaust port or on the power valve... don't compromise with the quality of your 2 smoke oil !
Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
The main thing is viscosity. Injection pumps typically call for SAE 20 or SAE 30, for premix up to SAE 50 is used; the higher the viscosity the better the load carrying, but higher viscosity oils also increase drag.
Synthetics give advantages, lower smoke, reduced friction, better high temperature stability etc - but as discussed esters are hydroscopic and can cause problems if you store your bike for a long time.
Castor based products are slippery and smell nice, but tend to be pretty dirty. Also their shelf life may be reduced.
Castrol MSSR, hard to find but good stuff
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the art of diplomacy is saying nice doggie,
until you find a big rock
Amsoil 100:1. If you can find it. If you can afford it. If you dare.
Steve
"I am a licenced motorcycle instructor, I agree with dangerousbastard, no point in repeating what he said."
"read what Steve says. He's right."
"What Steve said pretty much summed it up."
"I did axactly as you said and it worked...!!"
"Wow, Great advise there DB."
WTB: Hyosung bikes or going or not.
Have used Motul exclusively for 22 years (that's how long it has been imported!) in my two strokes (and there have been many TZ's, RS's, YZ's, TZR's, RZ's, TR's etc through the family).
Injection - 600 2T which can also be pre mixed from memory
Pre Mix 800 2T. 30:1 in water cooled bikes, 25:1 in air cooled bikes.
I have never had a lubrication issue or a failure in any bike that was caused by the oil
Good oil is cheap insurance.
If I couldn't get Motul, I'd be looking at Silkolene or castrol A747.
I doubt one 2 stroke oil absorbs water more than another, though some oils do react differently with water in terms of slide sticking.
I think if you are getting water into your engine when washing, that is your main problem - seal it better before getting the hose out, not that the oil is sucking it.
The old castor based oils like Shell M and Castrol R are still to this day some of the most lubricative oils available, but the let down is the mixability and shelf life (ie use same day).
Very low ratio of oil to fuel is also a gimic, give the engine as much as it can handle and jet accordingly - more oil will displace the quantity of fuel in the overall mix and make it run leaner....
There was an article years ago which tested a bike on the dyno and they got the best power at 14:1 (where most people would run 16-25:1).
I have also seen upper cylinder bore wear on a bike the same as I was running, and the only diffrence was essentially the oil. I had Motul, the other bike was TTS pre mixed. The other bike was changd to Motul and problem never reoccurred.
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