yeah I heard that kero damages o-rings...i assumed they were false. so will they be damaged even though i lubed up straight after?
Yea... Turtle wax to wash bike... Kero for the chain.. and Pledge for the screen and your visor.
Wash it before you ride it, not after, dont put it away wet.![]()
Some data/evidence, please? If you're going to make statements like that, please back it up with something we can evaluate to see whether it's true, or just rumour/urban myth/complete and utter bullshit.
Here's some I gathered in a few seconds worth of searching:
RK Chain Company
webBikeWorld
Motorcyclist Online
Yamaha R1 Forum
Sprt Rider Magazine
eHow Magazine
The Ultimate Ducati Forum
EK Motrcycle Chain
Super Streetbike Magazine
And here's some hard data:
"Is WD-40 safe to use on your chain?
Yes, All motorcycle chains currently being manufactured use Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber for their o-rings and x-rings, and all these manufacturers recommend kerosene as a cleaner.
Here's the formulation of WD-40:
80% Stoddard Solvent (that is similar to kerosene)
20% light lubricating oil, and a bit of fragrance.
Here's the compatibility of Stoddard Solvent with rubbers and plastics:
Good Compatibility (OK for both static and dynamic seals)
Buna-N (Nitrile)
Chemraz
Epichlorohydrin
Fluorocarbon
Fluorosilicone
Kalrez
Nitrile, hydrogenated
Polyacrylate
Teflon, virgin
Mixed Compatibility (OK for static seals, but not for dynamic seals)
Neoprene
Vamac
Fair Compatibility (OK for some static seals)
Polysulfide
Polyurethane, millable
Poor Compatibility
Butyl
Ethylene-Propylene
Hypalon
Natural rubber
Silicone
Styrene Butadiene
Consequently, WD-40 is safe and effective as a chain cleaner and corrosion inhibitor."
Note that if WD40 is OK, then so is kerosene.
(Source: efunda)
... and that's what I think.
Or summat.
Or maybe not...
Dunno really....![]()
Well you have me stuffed. Why do you want to clean a chain.... Just throw some chain oil on it and if necessary wipe off the excess with a rag.
I just use car wash. Wet the bike then with warm water and a little wash start at the top and work down. I have a dirty old car wash brush for the grubby lower bits and a very nice soft Meguires (whatever) brush for the painted and clear bits. I then rinse and dry the bike with a soft towel.
Dont like the idea of washing any vehicle except my landrover with a pressure washer, bearings and electrics don't like water and the velocity damages paint and plastic finishes.
Do not I repeat do not use a product called CT18, although it is supposed to be suitable for motorcycle it seems to have an adverse affect on some rubbers, it messed up the seat and foot peg rubbers on my bike. Ok before some one says prove it, it was the only wash I used on the bike and the damage is clearly visible to all, there was no other reason for the damage that has occurred.
Its not the destination that is important its the journey.
Citrus based stuff is good for most gunge,never had a problem with marks on plastic or Aluminium....not to expensive either. But that Wurth stuff is the Bbizzo , only used it 'cause it was a prezzie as its a tad expensive.
Im with the petroleum product dudes when it comes to chains & associated spooge, I use diesel though, on a rag..
Pledge is yor friend & comes pleasantly scented,covers scratches nicely
The Heart is the drum keeping time for everyone....
Its on the Duc, the rubber in the seat looks like to was hit with a blow torch, and the rubber in the foot pegs is breaking down, unless I had a bad batch it is strongly acidic in its actions (ok it could be alkaline but the action is acidic I have not tested it).
I am sure it was related to the wash there was noting else used on the bike.
Its not the destination that is important its the journey.
When I got my new bike, I was amazed with how much focus was placed on "How to correctly clean your bike".
Doing it the right was for your bike is pretty important.
There some great info on products on here.
In a sense, you're right. Some of the old lube will be removed by the new stuff, especially if it's an aerosol-type lube, because the carrier solvents will partly remobilise the chain spooge that's on there. (This is kind of what happens with automatic chain oilers, except the lube gets flung off, taking the dirt with it). However, with time you'll build up quite a layer of chain spooge, which will tend to gather grit, acting like a grinding paste. This is what you're removing.
... and that's what I think.
Or summat.
Or maybe not...
Dunno really....![]()
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