Whats a good oil, in your opinion ??

[Motoracer]

For high performance lube I'd sujest KY... Oh you mean for your bike? Ok well, go with anything that's semi-synthetic, 10W-40W. I personally used to use Spectro and now use Plutoline just cause I got hooked up with a deal. Either one is good stuff for race bikes really.

Buy the semi-synthetic and do more oil changes rather than buy full synthetic and not do as many oil changes. You'll find that full synthetic is actually twice as costly as the semi.

[Quasievil]

For high performance lube I'd sujest KY... Oh you mean for your bike? Ok well, go with anything that's semi-synthetic, 10W-40W. I personally used to use Spectro and now use Plutoline just cause I got hooked up with a deal. Either one is good stuff for race bikes really.

Buy the semi-synthetic and do more oil changes rather than buy full synthetic and not do as many oil changes. You'll find that full synthetic is actually twice as costly as the semi.

Thanks Sudeep, I will get this then at lunch time. I might even be fast this weekend, have some race tyres !!!!!

[TonyB]

For high performance lube I'd sujest KY...

But not the 'Warming Gel'. Goes all sticky.

[John]

But not the 'Warming Gel'. Goes all sticky.

Funny that.

[Zapf]

Mobil 1 is know to cause low oil pressure in cars.... perhaps it gets too thin at high temp. So run it at your own risk.

In my 2.5L turbo dynoed at 240kw rear wheels. I run Redline oil, they are on the same level as motul or even better. See it use it and you'll know why.

For a race bike, I would say run the thinnest oil possible, but your bike hasn't been a race bike all its life and hence if you run a thin oil it might be too light for it. Also the motor has had a few k's right?

So to balance $$$ and performance and oil thickness, I would say a simi syth with very regular oil change. (1000~2000km) or less? (as oil breaks down with heat)

if you run a race oil, they don't have the cleaning agent and ph balancers (engine fume desolved in oil increase makes acid) so you have to change it even more often... 500km~1000km and they cost loads as well.

as John hav said I have had good experience switching from Silkolene Pro 4 to Motul 5100 on the SV. Much smoother gear change and better / sweeter sounding / reving engine. So there is my 2c.

[Motoracer]

Thanks Sudeep, I will get this then at lunch time. I might even be fast this weekend, have some race tyres !!!!!

Yea man, we can ride together and I'll show my lines etc etc in the begining if you want. I'll be on the RG150 or the ZXR400 since 2smoker was kind enough to let me borrow his bike cause my bike is waiting on some parts coming from Japan. I think you'll do great, specially since you finally came to your sences and got yourself a Gixxer!

[Lou Girardin]

I don't know where you got that about Mobil1 Zapf. It's consistantly tested as having among the highest retained viscosity of all synths. The only better ones are full ester based oils like Motul 5100 or Delvac. If the oil pressure was low it would be from a mechanical cause.
It wasn't some unsubstantiated drivel from a car forum, was it?
I've used Mobil1 and it's variants in cars and bikes for 15 years without a problem. The internals of a 130,000km supercharged MX5 engine were like new when I opened it up..
I also wouldn't recommend using the thinnest viscosity oil either, eg. 10/30 oils are usually "energy conserving" which means they have anti-wear additives that will cause wet clutches to slip.
Use the best oil (preferrably full synth) you can afford and change at the makers recommended intervals and you'll be hunky-dory.

[Motu]

I agree with Lou,Mobil 1 is the benchmark for all other oils,if you want better move onto the esters like Silkolene and Motul.Unless you see it on the packet the only friction modified oils are those under 10/30,made for the US market where cars have to meet an economy standard.The best bang for your buck is heavy duty diesel oil,it's almost the same spec as bike oil...but has the much cheaper picture of a truck on the label,the motorcycle label costs 50% more to print.

The off road guys with the modern high performance 4 strokes change their oil after every ride! and use the best oil they can get...lessons have been learned the hard way.

[speedpro]

I have used Mobil 1 since before they put the price up to increase sales - something to do with perceptions regarding cost and quality. I'd leave it in all season which included all the Nth Is Nationals, all club rounds at Puke and Manfeild and all the drags at Meremere and Champion plus weekend road riding. All have been big old aircooled motors with roller cranks. This was before they had motorcycle specific versions. The one time I ran a semi-synthetic(Mobil) in the McIntosh I found some galling on the little end pins.

Last time I bought any I went to the gas station looking for some 4t and there wasn't any on the shelf so I asked them to have a look out the back. The guy came back with a pack and said I could have it for $20 as they were getting rid of the motorcycle oils. Turned out they had 4 4L packs @ $20ea. That was a very good day.

[Quasievil]

I got Motul 5100 because it sounds like Motu, nah not really I got it because its semi synthetic and was priced well at $40 for a 4l, a good deal.

I will chuck it in tonight and try out the new clutch

MR your on mate would love to see the lines thanks mate

I found out my GSXR400 is actually a GSXR400SP how good is that !!!!

[XTC]

I found out my GSXR400 is actually a GSXR400SP how good is that !!!!

What's the SP for....

Ok I'll start..... Slow Prick

[soundbeltfarm]

Been using Castrol R4 Superbike and then Mobil 1 Racing 4T. FZR's are supposed to use oil, but mine (43,000 k) won't use any untill the oil has been in there at least 5,000k. The only reason I only buy the synthetic stuff is because I can get it at trade prices. Lately I have been wondering if it would be better to use a semi synthetic and change it twice as often to avoid the inevitable buildup of crud in the oil...

in the two wheels mag.
castrol was asked about oils.
they themselves said for a new bike dont use synthetic as its too good and parts wont bed in very good.
they said buy the best you can afford but the key they reckon is change it regulary.
cheaper oil changed more often is better than paying big dollars for oil and not changing it regulary.

[Zapf]

I agree with Lou,Mobil 1 is the benchmark for all other oils,if you want better move onto the esters like Silkolene and Motul.Unless you see it on the packet the only friction modified oils are those under 10/30,made for the US market where cars have to meet an economy standard.The best bang for your buck is heavy duty diesel oil,it's almost the same spec as bike oil...but has the much cheaper picture of a truck on the label,the motorcycle label costs 50% more to print.

The off road guys with the modern high performance 4 strokes change their oil after every ride! and use the best oil they can get...lessons have been learned the hard way.

well.... its a common conclusion from guys on SDU that if you have a oil pressure sensor on your motor you'll read lower pressure if u are running Mobil 1. Mobil 1 might be good for small motors... but not big motors....

and I do get a smoother motor from running redline than Mobil 1...

[vifferman]

and I do get a smoother motor from running redline than Mobil 1...

I'm not doubting you, Zapf, but how can "smoother running" be quantified without resorting to subjective "feels like" statements?

F'rinstance, I've had a lot of people say that running full synthetic in their bikes that they get "more power" (by the Seat-O-The-Pants-ometer), and smoother, easier gear changing, but I'm still sceptical that any "better, faster, smoother, more powerful" claims aren't just wishful thinking. I know personally that changes I've made to jetting, exhausts, etc. are very hard to verify objectively. It's easiest when they result in noticeably crapper running. So, I'd like to try synthetic engine oil (did once, when it was relatively cheaper than it is now), but I'd need something more than anecdotal evidence to justify it to my wallet.

[Motu]

well.... its a common conclusion from guys on SDU that if you have a oil pressure sensor on your motor you'll read lower pressure if u are running Mobil 1. Mobil 1 might be good for small motors... but not big motors....

and I do get a smoother motor from running redline than Mobil 1...

I spend almost as much time on an oil specific site as I do on this forum....well,maybe a 1/10 of the time ok? These guys are totaly anal about oil and will talk forever about pro and cons of different oils,never seen any mention of low oil pressure for Mobil 1,it get's practicaly no bad rep at all.Anyway - pressure or flow...which would you rather have?...and why?...