Points gap is critical for timing on small two smokers, too
When it comes to the condenser does the voltage matter? I think the bike is 6 volt (bulbs are anyway).
Would be cool to get the real part due to it having the cam lubrication felt attached to it.
Interesting point about the timing changing, the fibre block on the points is definately not its original size because you can see a little burr on the trailing edge and the cam/boss that it runs on is bone dry. I'm guessing to change overnight a chunk would have to have come away.
Cheers for the advice, I definately will change the points also. I could'nt find a timing mark on the flywheel, will go and have another look.
I'll try and get the parts for next weekend and post the result as soon as I have a go. Bummer is I am away with work all week. Who is best for original Suzuki bits? Cheers
Depending on where you are in Auckland I'd try Colemans (CBDidsh), Holeshot (Shore), Haldanes (Penrose) or Bikesport (Helensville).
I agree about getting original parts if you can.
I'd try and find motorcycle breakers if I were you.
Try putting you own mark on the flywheel before advacing the timing (if that is what you are going to try).
I'd like too, will probably try Colemans. Went to the Suzuki/Triumph dealer in Barrys Point road for the condenser and they were useless. Only interested if I wanted to spend $12,000 on a new bike. When the time comes it won't be spent there.
Have attached a picture of the beast.
Still waiting for the points and condenser to arrive but can anyone tell me what the timing mark on the flywheel should line up with on the crankcase when firing? There doesn't seem to be an obvious mark on the case.
I had a similar problem on my old (1987??) DR200....Traced it back to a wire that had become disconnested from the ignition unit. (It appears to have a basic electronic advance unit). Not sure if yours has a similar setup, but may be worth a check to see yours doesnt have a similar setup, or a loose plug. (lOn the Suzuki it is a black box under the seat/rear mudguard)
Symptoms: Started and Idled perfectly....just wouldnt rev (backfired...coughed and spluttered and low power)
There is a pointer kind of thing towards the front and on the bottom. Its kind of like a rib on the case.
Its is on the edge of the casing, at around 7 O'clock if you are looking at the flywheel from memory.
There is no advance/retard at all, the timing curve is a line rather than a curve. Two strokes have different timing requirements to a four stroke.
I spent AGES pissing about with my old A100 when it developed a similar problem, it was a filthy muffler.
I know you have checked the exhaust but be absolutley sure because mine seemed all good but it the baffle in the back had clogged up badly. Try running it with the baffle out, it will piss the neigbours off but its a good way of checking.
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