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Thread: Lining a garage. Best way to go?

  1. #1
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    Lining a garage. Best way to go?

    My new Versatile garage is up at last so I now want to line it. Was thinking of 6mm ply. It's got 100mm spacing between the uprights and the're 2400 high. Garage is 7x6.

    Any thoughts? Also, where's cheapest for ply in Christchurch? Anybody any ideas?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Molly View Post
    My new Versatile garage is up at last so I now want to line it. Was thinking of 6mm ply. It's got 100mm spacing between the uprights and the're 2400 high. Garage is 7x6.

    Any thoughts? Also, where's cheapest for ply in Christchurch? Anybody any ideas?

    Thanks.
    100mm spacing? Not, say 1000mm?

    Ply will be 1220 x 2440, good for height but a 20% loss on width. unless... you've got dwangs at 1200 high?

    One of the advantages of ply is that it's strong enough to take most loads from all of the crap you're now going to hang all over your new cave. Not 6mm though, you want 9mm or even 12mm construction ply. And a bucket of white acrylic paint.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  3. #3
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    We went the real budget way, and used cover sheets of ply...they had some marks on them, but a lick of paint and nobody is any the wiser.
    Best of all, i t was free!
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    If/When/if? I fix the leaks in my gargre, the wife wants it lined in strandboard, like her sister's gargre. That or ply - whatever's cheapest. Makes hanging stuff on it easier, although I suspect the new! Improved gargre will be lacking in shelves and cupboards groaning with accumulated shit.
    It's all useful shit, I tellsya!
    Like the rimu veneer carefully moved from Roundabouta nearly 10 years ago, because at $165 (then) a sheet, it's too good to turf. One day I'll make summat from it...
    ... and that's what I think.

    Or summat.


    Or maybe not...

    Dunno really....


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    Ply will be 1220 x 2440, good for height but a 20% loss on width. unless... you've got dwangs at 1200 high?
    Wot he said...and...
    Add extra vertical (studs) or horizontal (nogs/dwangs) framing to get the best out of your ply...10mm minimum and have a search on Tardme for cheap ply, there's usually lots around.
    Nail it at 200mm centres on the edges and 300mm crs on intermediate framing with 40mm flat head nails (gib clouts are cheap & effective).
    Keep the bottom edge 10mm off the floor, prevents damp spreading.

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    Don't forget to biff some powerpoints in first! And a power point in the roof can be handy as well (especially when your trying to hang a light down to see something in an awkward place - also good if you want to put in an automatic garage door [need power point for motor]).

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by p.dath View Post
    Don't forget to biff some powerpoints in first! And a power point in the roof can be handy as well (especially when your trying to hang a light down to see something in an awkward place - also good if you want to put in an automatic garage door [need power point for motor]).
    Consider putting in batts for insulation. Also you must put building paper in if it does not have it already. It is designed to absorb condensation and then release it during the day. If you do not have it in there condensation can cause problems. Upside is that your bikes and things will stay drier and way less prone to rust!
    If you have nogs at 1200mm then you should use 12mm ply and go horizontally with it to avoid a whole lot of extra nogging and pissing about. Berware tho as some sheets are 1220 and some 1200. You can probably get 3m long sheets as well to save on waste
    Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Laava View Post
    Berware tho as some sheets are 1220 and some 1200. You can probably get 3m long sheets as well to save on waste
    Plywood is 1200. MDF is 1220.
    TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”

  9. #9
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    What's all this talk of ply, clouts, centres and shit....ya need some posters man!
    May I suggest a selection of strategically placed tits, bums and bikes. And don't suffer any of the fools who say you won't be able to hang anything off it, who in their right mind would want to cover up tits, bums and/or bikes?

  10. #10
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    Try a few places and ask if they have any cover sheets as they are normally far cheaper

    painting it all white makes a huge difference as well

    I'll try a guy at placemakers who sells the shit and let you know, he's got me a few before

    Got a couple of full cover sheets of mdf if you want it for shelving or something cause I aren't going to use it, little bit fluffy but should clean up

    If you're going to spend a bit of time in there I'd recommend pink bats as well
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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  11. #11
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    Had a mate who lined his garage,he put 9mm plywood covers where he wanted to hang ladders etc,other walls he had nothing to hang on the walls he used 5mm chip,or hardboard what ever is cheapest.
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  12. #12
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    cheap insulation after using building paper is pollystyrene fruit boxes from the local veg shop. these can be cut to fit cost nothing and are better than batts.
    But do put you power points, twice as many as you think you need.
    Ensure that you have power points that can take 60amps, you dont want to be using a welder or heavy grinder sander drill on a std 30 amp power plug, that will see your garage turn to ashes really fast, and ensure that the fuse in the house is the right strength for the same reason.
    I recomend you also put a cold water tap somewhere handy, that day you burn your hand on a hot exhaust will be worth the trouble.
    Use 12mm mdf fore the bottom 1200 of the walls 8mm for the reast except for the wall which will be behind your bench. Construction ply is best for that, as you will want to put storage for tools and other things on this wall.
    And as previously stated, power plug in the centre of the roof, I recomend four light fittings for neon tube lighting. on seperate switches.
    Have a fire extinguisher permanetly mounted beside the entrance door.

    All sound too much?
    Not if you want to work on your ride in comfort, be safe, and have your insurance company happy, make sure they know of the mods, because you will use it as a workshop, and if you dont tell tehm, they can witdraw from any clain you may make for injury, burglary fire or water damage.
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  13. #13
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    If you're lining it with ply or something do you need to put any building paper up as a moisture blocker?

  14. #14
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    Shit. Lots of good tips and advice there thanks. Who ever said there are more questions than answers....

    I'll print this lot off at work and refer to it during the work.

    Thanks again everyone.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Subike View Post
    Ensure that you have power points that can take 60amps, you dont want to be using a welder or heavy grinder sander drill on a std 30 amp power plug, that will see your garage turn to ashes really fast,

    Use 12mm mdf fore the bottom 1200 of the walls 8mm for the reast except for the wall which will be behind your bench. Construction ply is best for that, as you will want to put storage for tools and other things on this wall.
    Err? I think a sparky might be best to chat with regarding the power points. Having a large fuse for a welder power outlet will probably entail a few specifics to keep insurance companies happy.

    Also, keep the MDF sheets off of the floor. Moisture will transfer into the sheet and you will end up with a wall like a soggy weetbix.
    TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”

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