Originally Posted by
White trash
You know how one goes about that?
Well first thing to do would be start at first principles & put a degree wheel on the flywheel (very cheap large protractor) using an extra nut with bolts to affix it to the crank end if there is enough thread poking out. Make a thin wire pointer line up to the marks on the wheel.
Then a dial gauge in the spark holes would find TDC for one set of pistons. Then wind it on to TDC for the rear piston & presumably that should align at 90 degrees to the front two (they are 90 deg aren't they?) If it is out by a few degrees then the crank wasn't assembled correctly.
Having not seen an MVX ignition set up I will continue with assumption;
Presumably the ignition fire is taken off the flywheel by an internal or external pulsar coil. There will be two, one for each bank of cylinders positioned at 90 degrees away from each other. If you want to retard the rear one; slot it's mounting hole & rotate it say a mm or two in the direction the flywheel rotates. This will retard the ignition giving that cylinder an easier time. The coil should remain same distance away from raised bit or the flywheel will clout it, or not work if too far away.
You can work out which cylinder lines up with which pulsar coil as it reaches TDC it will line up with the F (Fire) then T (top) mark on the flywheel & there will be a raised section passing under the related pulsar coil then. If performance falls off notably you could wind it back a little, there should be a sweet spot.
I'd also check that the fuel supply is ok to all carbs, watch fuel filters which can be hidden in carbs or taps. Make sure carb jets cleaned out, 2 strokes often seize on closed throttle meaning pilot jet. You could try wind the idle mixture screw in a touch more than the other cylinders which will richen the mixture a tickle.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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