Opinions on Subaru B4s? (yes a car)

[jono035]

Someone once said, if you can afford to own a late model Subaru, buy a V8. So I did.

I remember a hitch-hiker I once picked up complaining that most soobies are better at sounding like proper V8s than all the modern ones...

Edit: And somehow even then under-powered Subs like the 1.8 NA Imprezas are thirsty as hell... crazyness...

[Indiana_Jones]

Says the only person less qualified to comment on cars than my girlfriend...

Granted I know nothing or care about cars lol, but the principle can't be that wrong.

I bet a F1 car has slightly higher hours in the workshop then a 1.3L Rolla lol

-Indy

[jono035]

Granted I know nothing or care about cars lol, but the principle can't be that wrong.

I bet a F1 car has slightly higher hours in the workshop then a 1.3L Rolla lol

-Indy

Heh, your point was 100% valid and well made. That wasn't enough to stop me though

[MisterD]

Edit: And somehow even then under-powered Subs like the 1.8 NA Imprezas are thirsty as hell... crazyness...

My 2.5NA gets me Onehunga-Hamilton-Rotovegas-Tauranga-Bombay on a single tank (50litres) without driving like a complete nanna, which is a tad better than 10l/100k. Not bad for an auto 4x4...

[FlangMasterJ]

Okay the fuel side of things doesn't bother me since it only takes five minutes to get to work. If I did get one I guess my premiums would be through the roof since scum take a liking to them?

It's not looking good.

Thanks everyone.

Anyone want to buy a Corolla?

[steelestring]

Good cars, its just almost imposible to get one that has not been neglected by some gang-star hood rat. Excellent bang for buck if you get a good one and has sort of sevice history. Hungry as hell on gas around town but you can get some great k's out of them on the open road if you stay off the money suckers. Good warm up and warm down, dont get one with a full exhaust!!!!!!... note: cat back is ok but if its got a full system the small turbo is going to over spool and shart itself... clutches are expensive but nothing near the price of a shotty auto.. Make sure you take it for a propper drive when test driving it and make sure you turn it off and start it a few times.. sensors die (cam angle sensor, hotwire afm etc) and all they do is disconect the battery for a couple of minutes and reset it out of 'safe mode' before you buy it (private sales). Noisy lifters 100+ bucks each. Tire wear on them will show up more if its been bent.
Top grade oil, good fuel and they last.

[steelestring]

Okay the fuel side of things doesn't bother me since it only takes five minutes to get to work. If I did get one I guess my premiums would be through the roof since scum take a liking to them?

It's not looking good.

Thanks everyone.

Anyone want to buy a Corolla?

Fuel thing hahaha yea you will care but thats not why you choose a subie... hmmm let it warm up and warm down...

Whats the rolla? and how much?

[jono035]

My 2.5NA gets me Onehunga-Hamilton-Rotovegas-Tauranga-Bombay on a single tank (50litres) without driving like a complete nanna, which is a tad better than 10l/100k. Not bad for an auto 4x4...

That's pretty reasonable... My 2.4L VTEC accord wagon does about that on open road, 9.5-10km per litre...

My comment was about the smaller engined ones though. They have stuff all power so you need to be a bit more heavy handed with them to get enough movement out of them that you won't be honked at when moving away from green lights.

[FlangMasterJ]

Fuel thing hahaha yea you will care but thats not why you choose a subie... hmmm let it warm up and warm down...

Whats the rolla? and how much?

1992 Corolla XL sedan. Faded red with peeled off laminate effect. Riddled with dents compliments of a prick with a full bottle of wine (he ended up bloody with a dislocated shoulder).

Carpetless because of a leak which let's water enter behind the glovebox. The carpet was cultivating shrooms and mould. It is now 10kg lighter though.

In saying that if you want a car that will never quit on you and cost you next to nothing to run it's perfect.

[Brett]

If you go twin turbo, make sure it has never had a big bore exhaust fitted. The reduction in back pressure means that the smaller turbo over spools and burns out the bearing.

[steelestring]

1992 Corolla XL sedan. Faded red with peeled off laminate effect. Riddled with dents compliments of a prick with a full bottle of wine (he ended up bloody with a dislocated shoulder).

Carpetless because of a leak which let's water enter behind the glovebox. The carpet was cultivating shrooms and mould. It is now 10kg lighter though.

In saying that if you want a car that will never quit on you and cost you next to nothing to run it's perfect.

hehehe bloody and broken

my sis needs a runabout will give it a think dude
It might be a rough for her though hehehe

whats the motor and 1.3 nz new manual?

[steelestring]

Cat back is ok but anything more she will shart out the over spooling primary. Then just do a single conversion

[MIXONE]

Buy a nissan stagea.2.5 litre single turbo.Better gas milage,faster and more reliable.Also because they look like a fat old family wagon they don't get stolen or stopped by Mr. Plod.

[steve_t]

I've got a twin turbo Legacy RSB and my brother has a B4 RSK. Both have been really reliable. Mine's just gone over 225,000km and the only things I've needed have been a new radiator end tank and reconditioning the starter motor. It's never been broken into but it does have a bright led flashing with the alarm.
They are quite thirsty but it's due to the drive train losses powering all 4 wheels. This, however, gives great control cruising up the Turoa and Whakapapa access roads.
I change my oil and filter every 6 months along with my WOF service but a genuine Subaru filter is $10 and 4 litres of magnatec is $40. Great for peace of mind. I have increased the boost and have had no issues with the turbos (touch wood). I always run 98RON so I guess there's increased cost there.
The only caveat is with the transition from primary turbo only to both turbos. There's a pretty big dip in the torque curve that you have to learn to drive around. I'd say you're best to take one for a test drive and you'll see what I mean. Saying this, all it means is that you either change gear just before 4000rpm or at 7000rpm, which suits me cos I'm mostly driving sedately, or wringing it out
Let me know if there's anything specific u want to ask]
Cheers

[sinned]

Why have a high performance car? You get stuck in slow traffic, speed and you get a ticket and fuel is expensive. I had a Prado while I had a boat to tow and then made a mistake by buying a Ford XR6. Now I own a 98 Corolla (costs zip to maintain and run) and a Mazda SP2.3 (goes well but uses more fuel than Corolla).

My advice is to own a nana car and drive it like a nana. Ride the bike when you want the performance hit.