Galfer Disks Ordered, next question.

[Matt Bleck]

I while ago I asked you guys about replacement disks for me GSXR.

Thanks for all the advice & recommendations.

I've just ordered some galfer wave rotors from cyclebrakes.com and should have them in the next week or so.

My next question is having spent the money for the disks should I get my calipers serviced, stripped down and checked resealed etc. before bedding them in??

Any help would much appericated.

r4q2......

[F5 Dave]

Hmm, a 97? That’s now approaching 9 years old (no really count them, sorry).

So the crap that inevitably (can’t say that word without giggling after Team America movie )

(or going “Fuck yeah! We’re com’n round to save the mother fuck’n day yeah”


Sorry where was I?

The gunge finds it’s way to the bottom of the system & can potentially strop the pistons returning fully. Also it builds up behind the seals & may cause them to drag.

Yes I would get the pistons pumped out & cleaned, seals cleaned & reassembled with new fluid.

Most times the seals are fine, as long as they aren’t damaged they will be good but people do get paranoid about them.

[vifferman]

Yes, I would overhaul them - it's an opportune time.
Do it yourself. Order new seals, buy some brake cleaner and fluid (including beer) and go for it.
Oh - and do the master cylinder as well.
Hell - go the whole hog, and fit braided lines, if you haven't already.

[Matt Bleck]

Yeah I thought so, common sense I guess!!

So do you have to be a mechnic to over haul them, or can I just apply some common sense their too??

[bungbung]

So do you have to be a mechnic to over haul them, or can I just apply some common sense their too??

yep, don't worry about the overhaul. Just smear some commonsense all over them

[Matt Bleck]

yep, don't worry about the overhaul. Just smear some commonsense all over them

lol

[kerryg]

Yeah I thought so, common sense I guess!!

So do you have to be a mechnic to over haul them, or can I just apply some common sense their too??

Calipers are pretty easy. It really is just common sense. Cleanliness is really important. You don't want get brake fluid on rotors and pads etc. Don't wash rubber components in kerosine (it makes them swell up amazingly...how do I know??? ), best to use brake fluid for cleaning seals, pistons etc(except afore-mentioned rotors and pads), don't re-use old fluid, use DOT4 or DOT5.1 fluid only unless you know for sure you're already running DOT5, that's about it. Sometimes good to give your pistons a buff but your bike is only 9 years old so possibly not necessary....have a look at them and see if the look like they need it. Get some Brakeclean from Repco or wherever to clean everythinhg up when you've re-assembled it. A jam jar and a bit of 1/4 inch plastic tubing for bleeding...asnd Bob's your uncle...

[pritch]

Hell - go the whole hog, and fit braided lines, if you haven't already.

In case you are remotely interested...

When I asked my supplier in the USA, they checked with the US importer as to whether the Galfer braided lines complied with any recognised international standard. Sadly the reply came back that they didn't.


Funny really. They're sold in Britain and the USA and probably a load of other places as well...

[F5 Dave]

I never know who I’m talking to so it’s tempting to swing either way with do it/ don’t do it advice. Personally I think it is pretty simple, but I have a couple of mates who I wouldn’t trust to do it.

If you do the idea is remove the pads & pump the pistons almost out holding some bits of ply in them until they are all evenly almost out. Keep pumping the lever & decreasing the spacer between each calliper. Once one side is out that’s it no more pumping.

Then remove the hoses & let the fluid drip into a container not your tire or paintwork.

Any remaining pistons can be removed with compressed air, but caution & a rag between pistons & around the calliper as the come out at a million miles an hour.

The pistons can be cleaned up with plastic dish scrubber only if/where you need to, try not to remove any plating.

Sharp scribe or o-ring pick to take the dust seals & the main square section seals out. The sharp bit goes in the gap not to pierce them obviously. Behind the seals scrape gently the white plaque. Then clean all with brake clean (Spectro is a good brand). Never us this or anything else on rubber.

Wipe any grit off the seals with paper towels & brake fluid. Take into the light & inspect. The main square section seals should be sharp & undamaged.

Put all back together. Pistons should refit with fingers. Once in square a fair way a tiny wood sash clamp can be used to return them home (Warehouse or supercheap for ~$3/4).

Then after pumping out any old fluid from the master cylinder & cleaning reservoir with paper towel refit all & fill with new fluid & attempt to bleed. After 10 min of futility leave it for a few hours & try again (takes a while & sometimes the let it drain through method helps).

[Matt Bleck]

Thanks for the help y'all!!

[vifferman]

One small point - brake fluid soaks into your skin (which is a very bad idea). It also wrecks latex gloves, so use the plasticky gloves to protect your skin. Don't get any fluid on paintwork (wash it off quickly if you do).

[Matt Bleck]

One small point - brake fluid soaks into your skin (which is a very bad idea). It also wrecks latex gloves, so use the plasticky gloves to protect your skin. Don't get any fluid on paintwork (wash it off quickly if you do).

Will do!!!!!!!!!

[vifferman]

Then after pumping out any old fluid from the master cylinder & cleaning reservoir with paper towel refit all & fill with new fluid & attempt to bleed. After 10 min of futility leave it for a few hours & try again (takes a while & sometimes the let it drain through method helps).

The bubbles tend to rise up the pipes (bouyancy, y'know) and stick on any junctions. So if you tap the hoses and fittings with a screwdriver or small spanner, the bubbles can be encouraged to rise up to the reservoir. You can then either crack the banjo at the reservoir open slightly and bleed the line there to get rid of the majority of bubbles, or else tap the reservoir while pulling the lever in just slightly (so the return hole in the cylinder isn't covered) and you should see the bubbles come out the hole in the bottom of the reservoir. Then continue bleeding in the normal way.

It's the fact that bubbles tend to stick on junctions etc that made me ditch the brake lines on the VTR, as it had one hose that split into two above the mudguard. This had a hump in it that bubbles collected in and were impossible to move without a commercial bleeder thingo (tech term). Once I swapped this for two single lines, there was no more sponginess, and bleeding was easy.

[FROSTY:Me]

Dave has it covered -This is the time to use up all that brake fluid thats "just been lying around". Use it as the cleaning fluid for all the seals/pistons bottom of pistons etc.
Save the NEW in a sealed container fluid for actually going in the brakes.
To save yourself a shit load of brake bleeding I would pour new fluid in behind the pistons before refittting them and before refitting the brake lines I would pour as much NEW fluid into the caliper as your patience allows.
You can use the old fluid as a flushing agent down your brake lines too--flush out all that gungy old fluid.

[Matt Bleck]

Well after all the excellent advice I decided to get someone who knows what they are doing to fit them.

Now as I'm still bedding them in (only done 30km's so far) I can't comment on the stopping power. But there is a noticable difference in the way the bike handles and accelerates at higher speeds. Its hard to explain, say your riding along at about 100k's, and you give the bars abit of a shake from side to side and it feels like the wheels are glued to the road. Well with the new disks on you can feel the bottom of the bike moving from side to side. Changes direction really easyand oh so smooth.

Any way if your looking at getting some replacement disks I would highly reccommend these. They ended up costing a little more than I thought due to some hidden cost's (thanks customs!) but still about the same as what it would have cost me if I have had brought & fitted brembos and I would hate to think what a set of genuine ones would have cost!!!

heres the costs.

Galfer disks, galfer pads, freight and insurance. $960NZ+gst

Brembos........................................... ......... $930+gst NZ (no pads or fitting.)