I am surprised no one has mentioned using an earthing strap connected to your body, looks real impressive to novices, don't want any static frying your wires, a vacuum de-solder extractor as well for rework.
Trainer wheels optional
I am surprised no one has mentioned using an earthing strap connected to your body, looks real impressive to novices, don't want any static frying your wires, a vacuum de-solder extractor as well for rework.
Double shot!!
@Warr, one of these ;
http://www.voltelectronics.co.nz/too...rimp-tool.html
Steve
"I am a licenced motorcycle instructor, I agree with dangerousbastard, no point in repeating what he said."
"read what Steve says. He's right."
"What Steve said pretty much summed it up."
"I did axactly as you said and it worked...!!"
"Wow, Great advise there DB."
WTB: Hyosung bikes or going or not.
Forum whore
He's correct, the flux used in conventional soldering is corrosive and will eat the joint and loom.Originally Posted by Warr
All bikes are crimped from the factory, done correctly it's quite reliable.
There was a discussion on this on another bike site a few years back. One of the people to reply is a an electrical engineer who documented the soldering method that they/he use at NASA on satellites/space shuttle etc. Can't remember where it is now though :/
Gutwick, whilst seemingly not as impressive as a vacuum solder sucker, often works for this sort of work, imho.
parting of the sensory
That's a very good point. But the key is "done correctly". Also (plus! [as well!!] many of the OEM wires in motorcycle wiring are very light gauge.
... and that's what I think.
Or summat.
Or maybe not...
Dunno really....
Forum whore
Yes, both soldering and crimping, when done incorrectly, are excellent points of failure just waiting to happen.
Trainer wheels optional
If the solder is allowed to run up the wire, there will be a point where it is rigid, the flexible part with vibration equals break.
Flyboy
Funny that so many people are anti-soldering. All the auto-electricians i've ever seen at work, allthough this is on cars, have only used solder. Even on the race-cars, on mine i used crimps simply because i didnt have a soldering iron, but i'd like to re-do them. If solder holds up in a race-car when its done right its good enough for me
No8 Wire Extraordinaire
Yeah, those wires are easily damaged
Back to reality again;
Electrically solder is better if done correctly (however hard to do on old contaminated wires).
But if it moves & vibrates the Mil answer is to crimp it. Bike looms often get a hard time with steering flexing them. Good quality bare metal crimps with heatshrink & a std Utilux crimp tool will sort you out. I have done maybe a hundred on the my 500 hybrid. The solder joint the previous owner used were a point of failure.
Decent electrical shop should be able to set you up, maybe search Utilux site for what you want.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Trainer wheels optional
Obviously tongue in cheek comment when dealing with semi conductors and cmos chips.Yeah, those wires are easily damaged
Back to reality again;
I cant beleive so much crap on something so simple.
Maybe a a few failed DYI jobs should be taken to Mitre 10, someone might get a prize.
Double shot!!
I don't think it is. I understand the solder is electrically quite poor compared to a copper-to-copper swaged multiple-contact joint.
Steve
"I am a licenced motorcycle instructor, I agree with dangerousbastard, no point in repeating what he said."
"read what Steve says. He's right."
"What Steve said pretty much summed it up."
"I did axactly as you said and it worked...!!"
"Wow, Great advise there DB."
WTB: Hyosung bikes or going or not.
I thought I thought that
some mixed responses
The complete opposite is my experience (and many others) for the past 30 odd years (mind you I only did a couple of years cable jointing).
probably the only reason they crimp in manufacture is cost
Once stripped you can give it a bit of a scrap - I don't normally use extra flux but prefer solder with a flux core
the trick is 'tinning' - pre soldering the separate ends to be joined.
Heat is the trick - clean tip on the soldering iron, a little dab of solder on the tip, then hold it on the wire to heat the wire up
when you see the solder on the tip get soaked into the wire; you know it's hot enough - then feed the solder into the wire (not the soldering iron)
The after you've tinned the ends of both bits of wire to be joined; you hold or twist them together and heat - again when you see the solder go molten you only feed in a little more solder.
I use a mechanical connecter (crimp or strip connector) as well, or heat shrink over the joint
haven't had a failure yet.
Lifes Just one big ride - buckle up or hang on
His Excellency
Wish somebody would tell Suzuki that. Ever stripped open one of their wiring looms?
Hardcore Biker
Solder joints don't have much physical strength but if the conductors are intertwined and covered with glue filled heatshrink they are more waterproof and better conductors than crimp terminals in my experience. The joint should be supported and have no tension on it.
Most failures are dry joints - touching two tinned conductors together and heating with an iron is a dry joint waiting to happen. If you intertwine (not tie in an ugly knot) properly the join will be as strong as the wire and won't be any bigger than the wire when you sleeve it. Ring crimps and are OK better if soldered after crimping. I dislike bullets, inline and spade crimps - looks like shit when you have 3 or more together and the spades have bugger all surface area.
I love the smell of twin V16's in the morning..
I thought I thought that
I agree, if I want a strong joint I normally splay open the strands, cut the center one out, hold the two ends together and pass the splayed ends between each other and wind them over the ajoining wire - then solder
Trainer wheels optional
Most of the 'black boxes' that the wires 'push connector' are soldered inside.
Mind you we use things far longer than their intended lifespan.
It comes down to the resistance of the join and the application.
I have witnessed an attempt to solder tails onto a toaster element, the result was spectacular.
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