Soldering guidelines?

**Pixie** · 22nd October 2009, 09:19

Originally Posted by smoky

I agree, if I want a strong joint I normally splay open the strands, cut the center one out, hold the two ends together and pass the splayed ends between each other and wind them over the ajoining wire - then solder

This used to be known as a married joint,or a maori joint if it was done badly

**Pixie** · 22nd October 2009, 09:26

Originally Posted by Warr

I'll have to press you for some more justification on that score.
Soldering on bike is all I do, and from previous posts - so long as the joint is watertight there should be no corrosion issues. If I felt corrosion was to be an issue I'd clean the joint with kero and then meths.

Crimping in my mind doesnt quite do it for me. But perhaps thats cause I have never bought a commercial crimp tool. Do you have a pic of what you are suggesting.

The advantages of properly crimped joints are:
N.B. A "properly" crimped joint is one where the correct size connector for the size of wire and the correct tool was used.

They allow a bit more flexure at the joint than solder does on multi-conductor cable.

There is no flux residue to attack the wires

There is often stress relief designed into the connector.

**Pixie** · 22nd October 2009, 09:30

Originally Posted by Coldrider

Repairing microprocessor cards was part of my job as a techy many years ago. Some joints will not take if they are contaminated.
Just because other people have problems soldering doesn't mean others do.

Abrasion is the best way to clean a PCB if possible.A fibreglass brush is ideal

**Pixie** · 22nd October 2009, 09:34

Originally Posted by imdying

Gutwick, whilst seemingly not as impressive as a vacuum solder sucker, often works for this sort of work, imho.

When I was an apprentice this conversation would often be heard:
"Pass me the solder sucker"
"Don't call me,sucker.Jive turkey"

**dipshit** · 23rd October 2009, 10:54

I solder wires together by giving them a twist around each other and holding the soldering iron underneath the wires and touching the solder on top of the wires... until enough heat gets into the joint and the solder melts into it.

There are two types of crimping connections and crimping tools. One cheap and nasty type that is most common. Another type that has a much better crimp (and is the same as most bike manufacturers use) but seems to be becoming harder and harder to find in the shops.

Anybody know of a good supplier of the better quality ones?

**F5 Dave** · 25th October 2009, 09:21

Well first mail order search got this; Hells teeth I think I only paid $40. But this does show what you'd be after. I think they've got the price of the flash harry one, but this does roll & crimp bare metal crimps properly. (as opposed to the punch-a-deformation type meant for insulated crimps, (which are a travesty).

http://www.sulco.co.nz/Product?Actio...oduct_id=11706

Well I did say in my first post just cruise into your local electrical supplier & ask for above tool. Or check trademe.

**izzyc** · 25th October 2009, 09:42

i see that you have a few answers to this , but another option you could try is product from the NARVA brand...available at PARTMASTER automotive stores...it basically is like a piece of tube[about an inch long] that you put but your pieces of wire into then use a heat gun/torch on it....there is solder in the tubing so there is no mess, its easy, and its waterproof when done! ! ! ...hope this helps

**kwaka_crasher** · 25th October 2009, 12:50

I only ever solder and always use Duzall - never had a failure. The same cannot be said for factory crimped fittings which are done for cost not longevity.

**dipshit** · 26th October 2009, 18:21

Originally Posted by F5 Dave

Well I did say in my first post just cruise into your local electrical supplier & ask for above tool. Or check trademe.

It's not so much the problem of finding the good crimping tool. It's more the problem of finding a good selection of the decent crimp attachments. Both dick smith and jaycar mainly carry those crappy plastic insulated ones.

I had to use them on my last job on my bike. I pulled off their plastic installation so I could see the crimp on the wire... then also added a touch of solder. Then re insulated with heat shrink.

**F5 Dave** · 26th October 2009, 19:52

So erm. Cruise into your local electrical supplier.

Why would you look for automotive stuff in Dicky Smitts?

If you look up the utilux cattledog you can order what you want if they don't have it on their shelf..

**mossy1200** · 26th October 2009, 20:04

Since Bass owns a fzr1000 he will be trying to solder in a new VR and will be cursing about limited space and thinking where is the clean copper end etc.
you need to pull out the alternator and do it on a bench.
I assume you got a VR dirrect replacement that fits in the alternator.

You need to get some green coloured shit that looks like swafega.Its a cleaning solution for welding called flux and you should be able to get it from supercheep etc or dicksmiths.Alot of solders contain flux but in low quantities.

The connections will require a high temp iron with small tip and you need to pre solder the wires slightly then get in fast so as to not damage the VR.

It may not be a VR replacement your doing(assumption is the mother of all fuck ups).

**marty** · 26th October 2009, 20:34

Originally Posted by DangerousBastard

IMO you are better off to spend 50 bux on a quality crimp tool and do it properly. You are going to spend double that on a proper soldering iron anyway.

Steve

almost exclusively, we use these >> http://www.ttiinc.com/object/fp_tyco...mminiseal.html on commercial airliners. the heat shrunk seal prevents most water ingress, and the whole assembly is extremely strong but light.

My son's car stereo certainly doesn't give any trouble

**dipshit** · 26th October 2009, 21:43

Originally Posted by marty

a the whole assembly is extremely strong but light.

Someone once told me they don't use solder in the aviation industry mainly because of the weight it adds. Is that basically true..??

**jonbuoy** · 26th October 2009, 23:22

A good splice guide to soldering on here, the heatshrink guidelines are all wrong though.

http://jaguar.professional.org/electrics/splicing.php

**classic zed** · 30th October 2009, 22:11

To join wires I strip them back a bit then twist them together inline, this reduces the size of the joint. I then solder the joint and cover it with heatshrink tubing. When all the wires are joined I tape the harness using a very low tack Harness Tape. Notice I also stagger the joionts to avoid a bulge in the harness.

In the last pic you would hardly know that Id cut 8 inches out of the harness

As an Auto Electrician for many many years Iv used this method often without any problems.