Car spraypainting info

**SARGE** · 22nd October 2009, 22:14

Originally Posted by ready4whatever

I want to paint my ute a different colour, and the paint is all sunburnt and peeling. can someone give me some info on the type of air compressor, paint gun, primers, paint etc anything will be good as i dont know much about it

hey man ... i have everything you need to do it ( compressors, guns, panel tools etc) but its a bitch ..

many pro panelbeaters wont spray a car to save thier lives .. too too easy to fuck it up.. thats why they have painters..

i personally can and have done almost everything possible to do to an internal combustion engine .. from scooters to light aircraft and i wont spray a vehicle for any amount of money ..

but hey .. if youre keen to get into it .. a compressor to do the job will run ya about $2k or more from me .. a good basecoat gun about $250 and a topcoat gun about $350.. you will also need various air filters, water traps, hi-flo airlines

for a professional job..you will need dry, still air in a tarped off garage( with ventilation), infrared lighting to 'bake' the paint and about a week by yourself to tape off, shoot, 2000 grit, shoot and untape several times

your money .... but i can recommend several awesome painters in the auckland area that can do it for about a third of the price of setting yourself up.. and my reps down country can hook you up with a local in your area if need be

**ducatilover** · 22nd October 2009, 22:35

Originally Posted by ready4whatever

Also one day im keen to learn how to transplant engines. chuck a lexus v8 in it etc, also want to put a vr4 engine into my other ute its an L200, haha. so if anybody here is local and does a transplant sometime soon let me know i'd love to come give you a hand

Why a toyota v8? Over rated. Go down the 350 chev road with a v8, it's what I am doing. PM me for details on what to do with a 350 chev [the toyota/lexus are gutless puss, bugger all torque] doing the conversion is harder, costs more and it ends up slower than a nice chev. FAIL. Then there is the mighty ecu problem, they ran the auto box in the ecu [unlike bmw m20s with separate ecu units =D ] these were never available in manual, be prepared to waste major coin if wanting a manual.
The vr4 motor conversion can be a prick because of the water hose on the rear left hand side of the head [when in a vr4/evo 1-3] it will make life sad when you realise it's hitting the firewall.

**bogan** · 22nd October 2009, 22:42

Originally Posted by ducatilover

Why a toyota v8? Over rated. Go down the 350 chev road with a v8, it's what I am doing. PM me for details on what to do with a 350 chev [the toyota/lexus are gutless puss, bugger all torque] doing the conversion is harder, costs more and it ends up slower than a nice chev. FAIL. Then there is the mighty ecu problem, they ran the auto box in the ecu [unlike bmw m20s with separate ecu units =D ] these were never available in manual, be prepared to waste major coin if wanting a manual.
The vr4 motor conversion can be a prick because of the water hose on the rear left hand side of the head [when in a vr4/evo 1-3] it will make life sad when you realise it's hitting the firewall.

fuckin aye, japa's make reliable ref the snot out of em to get power engine, you want a proper v8, get a chev, with a side of of supercharger

am doing my own engine transplant at the moment, FWD EFI into a RWD van (through the passenger door hopefully!), messing about with the loom is a nightmare! also gonna have to make adapters for the throttle butterfly block on the inlet manifold, heater hoses, radiator hoses.... thats all ive found so far! If you wanna get into engine transplants, do exactly what someone else has done before, or make sure u got access to a decent engineering workshop

**McJim** · 22nd October 2009, 22:42

Go for gold - it already looks like the suspension is goosed so it has no resale value anyway, don't listen to the nay sayers.

**Owl** · 23rd October 2009, 05:56

Originally Posted by ready4whatever

I want to paint my ute a different colour

Well from one painter to someone that wants to be............Don't do it!

**ready4whatever** · 23rd October 2009, 18:18

I have a mate with a lexus v8 in his toyota hiace. 300 hp atw. its got link engine management etc. they arent gutless. funny as hell seeing it drag off evos

**ducatilover** · 24th October 2009, 14:06

Originally Posted by bogan

fuckin aye, japa's make reliable ref the snot out of em to get power engine, you want a proper v8, get a chev, with a side of of supercharger

am doing my own engine transplant at the moment, FWD EFI into a RWD van (through the passenger door hopefully!), messing about with the loom is a nightmare! also gonna have to make adapters for the throttle butterfly block on the inlet manifold, heater hoses, radiator hoses.... thats all ive found so far! If you wanna get into engine transplants, do exactly what someone else has done before, or make sure u got access to a decent engineering workshop

Good luck with the conversion mate, you should manage just fine. Is that the mitsi van? The FWD 4g series motors had a different bits here and there, heater pipes/water pipes and hope you got one with a crank angle sensor, some with distributors can get in the way. In saying that the van will have plenty of room to make her fit

Originally Posted by ready4whatever

I have a mate with a lexus v8 in his toyota hiace. 300 hp atw. its got link engine management etc. they arent gutless. funny as hell seeing it drag off evos

And how much did he spend to make 300hp at the wheels? I would expect it to be running a fair few mods. Take a look at the stock cars with the 1uzfe in them, ask somebody making good hp from one how much it cost them [converting to carburetor is the cheap part] and that usually costs less because as I say they run carburetors

Either way it's making the right noises

**The Pastor** · 24th October 2009, 14:49

Originally Posted by Headbanger

Not to be rude (I like to be rude when it suits) but if you have to ask those questions, Then your going to fuck it up.

Take it to someone who knows what they are doing, and pay the man to do a skillful job.

Just my opinion of course.

No i repainted my bike, never painted before, and it came out mirror shine.

I did use the wrong type of paint tho - it was still soft a month after the job.

You want to use the 2pack paint thing - you will need a popper mask and ventilation system - do not skimp on these the new paint fumes are very toxic. I used enamel which isnt toxic but it takes FOREVER to dry. the 2 pack system gives a really good finish and drys real quick.

Painting is real simple.

Paint remover on old paint

start sanding (note

nly ever sand in one direction per grit size and change it by 90 degrees when you change grit size (up and down then left and right) / de rusting with a 80 or 100 grit - sand like mad for hours.

Repair any dents / low points with bog.

sand for hours 80-100 grit

IF you think you are finished sanding spray a very light coat from a spray can over the work (clean it first) then try to sand it off - it will remain on the low points which will need bog

Once you have a pretty much flat surface you need to sand out the marks caused by sanding.

Do this by going up grit sizes and sand for hours... always change the direction you sand when you change grit sizes, so from 80/100 grit you sanded up and down the panel, on the next size up you would go from left to right, its hard to explain. You do this so you can tell by the direction of the sanding marks if you have got them all out.

IF you think you have finished on the sanding again put a light coat of paint on and sand it off.

Repeat sanding untill you are at a 300/400 grit paper, then put on a good etch primer let dry for an hour and put on some decent sanding primer and keep sanding down the primer until its all gone - it will stay in the low points and fill them up.

Repeat the sanding primer as much as required until you dont have any low points - use differnt colors if you can so u can tell what layer your sanding.

then you can degrease it and wack the first paint coat on

let it dry and sand it (wet) with 800 grit until its all mat. degrease and put the next coat of paint on.

Repeat for 4 or 5 coats working your way up with 1000 and maybe even 2000 grit then a final coat of paint and it'll be gleaming.

AS far as painting goes - go to the paint shop and ask them they will have the best and most accurate info - bigger compressor the better tho.

The above is just what I did - im no expert painter but it worked for me.

**ducatilover** · 24th October 2009, 15:18

You are on to it RM. We tend to use enamel where we can, our painter gets an amazing finish straight off the gun with enamel, many thing it's dulon or two pack.
I had the Spada done in two pack before I sold it, looked amazing but I hate two pack. Never flatten two pack back when it's done.....

**Headbanger** · 24th October 2009, 18:44

Originally Posted by renegade master

No i repainted my bike, never painted before, and it came out mirror shine.

I did use the wrong type of paint tho - it was still soft a month after the job.

Well then, You fucked it up.

A nublett painting a wagon is imo is a shit plan, But like all great shit plans if the nublett is hell bent on doing it, Then it becomes a great plan,worthy of encouragement, But still likely doomed to failure.

Its a bit like me mate who wanted to jump his MX off a cliff into a gully that had no way out, apart from back up the cliff.

"Shit plan mate.......But if your keen"

**The Pastor** · 24th October 2009, 18:46

Originally Posted by Headbanger

Well then, You fucked it up.

A nublett painting a wagon is imo is a shit plan, But like all great shit plans if the nublett is hell bent on doing it, Then it becomes a great plan,worthy of encouragement, But still likely doomed to failure.

Its a bit like me mate who wanted to jump his MX off a cliff into a gully that had no way out, apart from back up the cliff.

"Shit plan mate.......But if your keen"

Still looks good. just rattlecanned my forks, came up pretty spot on i think.