Street Triple review

[IdunBrokdItAgin]

Yep, torque delivery is everything. That's why bikes like the GSX-1400 are such potent road weapons.

The race boys may be able to confirm that the X-Ring has lower internal friction than an O ring (have you seen any sources of hard data?) - I wouldn't have a clue. However, I'd very much doubt that it has any measurable effect on the road.

I'd be better off dropping my weight from 82 kg to (say) 75 kg. Seeing as I like my food though, the biggest bang for my buck would be to fit high quality suspension to go faster. Having done it on the Blackbird and seeing the results, it's the first thing I'd go for on any other bike other than a few basics.

As far as I've read the O ring is based upon an old design. The X ring is a newer design and is considered to last longer. It is all about whether grit etc can get in the seals and wear them down.

Anyway, here is a link to a page that descibed it all in one go:
http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_a...cle_chains.htm

For me - I always hear about there being a differential between what an engine can output and what is actually gets transferred to the back wheel (Manufacturers quoted performance versus dyno tests). The only thing in between the engine and the wheel is the sprockets and chain. Therefore having a good quality set up must go a long way to reducing this differential.

But for me, foremost it is about making the chain and sprocket look a bit more in line with the rest of the bike. Any improvements is performance is a secondary bonus only.

Cheers

[Blackbird]

Anyway, here is a link to a page that descibed it all in one go:
http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_a...cle_chains.htm

Thanks for the link and I might be thick, but where does it mention that the coefficient of friction is lower for an XRing chain over an O Ring one? Friction is one way that horsepower will be absorbed. The other is the weight of the chain. Neither will have much bearing on a road bike.

As you say though, performance gain isn't your main criterion in this case.

I'm planning to upgrade the headlights and stick a hugger on to give a bit more protection to the shock. Will look at a radiator guard a bit later and maybe the suspension when I know the bike more than I do now. Will replace the Dunlop Qualifiers with the Sport or Supersport versions of the Avon VP2. I want to slowly get it right for the 1000 miler Grand Challenge next year

[IdunBrokdItAgin]

Thanks for the link and I might be thick, but where does it mention that the coefficient of friction is lower for an XRing chain over an O Ring one? Friction is one way that horsepower will be absorbed. The other is the weight of the chain. Neither will have much bearing on a road bike.

As you say though, performance gain isn't your main criterion in this case.

I'm planning to upgrade the headlights and stick a hugger on to give a bit more protection to the shock. Will look at a radiator guard a bit later and maybe the suspension when I know the bike more than I do now. Will replace the Dunlop Qualifiers with the Sport or Supersport versions of the Avon VP2. I want to slowly get it right for the 1000 miler Grand Challenge next year

O and X are comparable in friction I think, x is just regarded as being better in terms of longevity. I'm thinking that a top name chain must be better than the standard OEM one (this is where I'm hoping any performance gains may come from - A bit through weight reduction and a bit on friction loss). Either way I'm not expecting it to transform the bike much.

How are you planning on upgrading the headlights? I've had a look around and can't find much in the way of upgrades. Headlight visibility is definitely a weak spot of the street triple. Rode the other night and the light it put out wasn't exactly brilliant. A friend of mine just bought a VFR. Now that throws out some serious illumination.

Put a rear hugger on mine a couple of weeks back. 15 min job - really easy. Expensive piece of plastic though.

[vifferman]

If you want to gain some HP through changing the chain'n'sprockets, the only way to do that is to go lighter, like from a 530 to a 525 or 520.

As for lighting, the first thing is to make sure the wires to the bulbs are reasonable gauge and that they run relays. Assuming the reflectors give a good spread of light, you could go up to a higher wattage bulb (if it takes H4 bulbs), but don't be tempted to go to blue-tinted bulbs: they look glarey and bright, but you actually get less useful light. However (but!) there are some H4 bulbs (the xenon ones?) that have a whiter light and give more output for the curren they draw.

[Blackbird]

I ran both 100W xenon and halogen bulbs at different times in the Blackbird. These worked pretty well. However, I think that the extra heat generated in the small headlight volume of the Triple would not be a smart idea. I don't really want to fit an HID unit just for night riding in the Grand Challenge, so a spotlight might be an option (with a relay Ian ). However, I'll probably stick Osram Nightbreakers in first as the cheapest option trial. I've used them before and the same wattage as standard generates a much whiter and brighter light.

[Tank]

I ran both 100W xenon and halogen bulbs at different times in the Blackbird. These worked pretty well. However, I think that the extra heat generated in the small headlight volume of the Triple would not be a smart idea. I don't really want to fit an HID unit just for night riding in the Grand Challenge, so a spotlight might be an option (with a relay Ian ). However, I'll probably stick Osram Nightbreakers in first as the cheapest option trial. I've used them before and the same wattage as standard generates a much whiter and brighter light.

Will be interested to hear how you get on with the NightBreakers - please be sure to come back and let us all know.

[Tank]

Last night I put a scratch on my nice shiny new tank (dome on bottom of jacket).

Being black it stands out like dogs balls.

Pissed beyond belief - and according to the neighbours somewhat vocal about it.

Anyways dropped a email to Short-Circuit - and he suggested some snake skins grip pads.

The reviews on the 675 forums give them a good writeup and I think they suit the bike (in Black anyways - not sure about on a green or orange tank).

Im ordering up a set today - what to you think of the looks?

[Blackbird]

Will be interested to hear how you get on with the NightBreakers - please be sure to come back and let us all know.

Yep, will do. Might try for a photo with the stock bulb in one headlight and a nightbreaker in t'other.

Last night I put a scratch on my nice shiny new tank (dome on bottom of jacket).

Anyways dropped a email to Short-Circuit - and he suggested some snake skins grip pads.

Im ordering up a set today - what to you think of the looks?

Did the same to the Blackbird, I think it must be a natural law to scratch a new car or bike early in ownership - commiserations!

Yep, they look pretty good. When I bought the Striple in Hamilton, I had clear 3M film put on as a kit as there's a guy in town that makes kits for a lot of different bikes. The kit consisted of knee cutouts and rear of tank, front of front guard, rear plastic by the pillion seat and for the polished alloy guards that your boots rest against. No idea how much they cost because for a cash deal and no trade, Heath at Hamilton motorcycles threw in ORC, the 3M protection and a Ventura rack.

[vifferman]

I ran both 100W xenon and halogen bulbs at different times in the Blackbird. These worked pretty well. However, I think that the extra heat generated in the small headlight volume of the Triple would not be a smart idea.

Yes, there is that.
I've run a 90/130 in the VF500 and the same bulb in the VTR1000 with no problems, and both were smallish enclosures - the VF metal/glass, the VTR plastic. The only problem I did encounter on the VTR was a wee bit of corrosion or a less than perfect contact on the VTR caused some resistance, which causes heat, which partly melted the bulb connector. Something to be aware of.
Are the headlight lenses on the Striple glass or polycarbonate? If the latter, you need to use "UV cut" bulbs, as they are specifically designed for plastic lenses.

[Tank]

Looking for Striple accessories today and I found this:

The maintainance cost would be huge, and I reckon there are a lot of miles on the clock already, but personally I think this would make for a great ride.

[vifferman]

Looking for Striple accessories today and I found this:

The maintainance cost would be huge, and I reckon there are a lot of miles on the clock already, but personally I think this would make for a great ride.

LOL.
I hope she's a better biker than her pathetic husband - he drops his bike riding around town, and calls for a towtruck and waaaahmbulance.

[2wheeldrifter]

Looking for Striple accessories today and I found this:

The maintainance cost would be huge, and I reckon there are a lot of miles on the clock already, but personally I think this would make for a great ride.

Think it will be needing a full rebore... you can only hone so many times dude!

[Blackbird]

Will be interested to hear how you get on with the NightBreakers - please be sure to come back and let us all know.

Have just ordered the Osram Nightbreakers from Autobulbs Direct in the UK (Well, Osram Night Racers but they're the same thing, just different packaging). I'll fit them as soon as they're here.

I took the Striple for a 100km-odd ride round part of the Coro Loop the evening before last to assess the standard lights in a mixture of twilight and full dark in twisty, unlit areas. I was pleasantly surprised! Dipped beam was a touch low and I might play with that a little. Full beam was pretty good, but could also be raised a touch. However, the nearside headlight did a great job of illuminating the verge, meaning that I could attack left-handed twisties at a reasonable pace. The offside headlight was perhaps pointing a little too far left as it didn't illuminate the centre line markings all that well when tackling right handers. Again, I might have a bit of a fiddle with that when the new bulbs are fitted.

In summary, the stock headlamps are perfectly acceptable, particularly where there are other light sources such as street lamps. However, for completely unlit twisty roads, particularly on the 1000-miler event; I'm hoping that the Night Racers will give the extra margin I'm looking for.

Results to follow in a week or two.

[Chisanga]

I also found the standard lights to be good although I don't ride at night too often. On one ride I kept being asked at stops to check if I had my lights on full by the person I was following

Certainly can understand wanting better lights for long distance night riding.

Hope the new lights work well for you

[Owl]

Have just ordered the Osram Nightbreakers from Autobulbs Direct in the UK (Well, Osram Night Racers but they're the same thing, just different packaging). I'll fit them as soon as they're here.

In summary, the stock headlamps are perfectly acceptable, particularly where there are other light sources such as street lamps. However, for completely unlit twisty roads, particularly on the 1000-miler event; I'm hoping that the Night Racers will give the extra margin I'm looking for.

Results to follow in a week or two.

It's a bit late now, but you may want to check this site out. http://www.powerbulbs.com/

Perhaps I should have posted sooner.