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Thread: ZXR250 - hesitation and stalls when warm

  1. #46
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    um yeah after having the carbs off like 7 times this weekend i wont beable to play with it next weekend. but thats ok it will give me time to find some shims

    Man i wish the original guy would post again

  2. #47
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    If you want to get it working properly, you need to do what I've posted dude.
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




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  3. #48
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    What you want to do, is set floats, jets, needles to factory. Put the airfilter in.
    Get the top end correct, find a jet that pulls well right up top, do not worry about the lower end.
    If it pulls good, time to do the needles.
    If it bogs down or feels wet at 8000-10,000rpm, lower the needles, if it has a big flat spot, raise them .5mm at a time.
    Once that's sorted, get your midrange done, 4000rpm and up is where your floats come in to play, so too rich means you want to lower the float height (bigger measurement) Do it in 1mm increments, I know it takes ages to get right, but that's life.
    Once that's done, you can set the idle, you may have problems down low using the factory pilot jet, but I doubt it.
    If you need bigger pilots, I might have some here.



    This post ?

    yeah i agree with that i think and im onto changing the needles
    just ordered 20x0.1 20x0.2 20x0.3 3mm shims for $14.10 delivered thats from hongkong Gota love the internet


    My gut thinks 0.4 will be the right height with 128-130 jets but we will see

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ultrasonic2 View Post
    What you want to do, is set floats, jets, needles to factory. Put the airfilter in.
    Get the top end correct, find a jet that pulls well right up top, do not worry about the lower end.
    If it pulls good, time to do the needles.
    If it bogs down or feels wet at 8000-10,000rpm, lower the needles, if it has a big flat spot, raise them .5mm at a time.
    Once that's sorted, get your midrange done, 4000rpm and up is where your floats come in to play, so too rich means you want to lower the float height (bigger measurement) Do it in 1mm increments, I know it takes ages to get right, but that's life.
    Once that's done, you can set the idle, you may have problems down low using the factory pilot jet, but I doubt it.
    If you need bigger pilots, I might have some here.



    This post ?

    yeah i agree with that i think and im onto changing the needles
    just ordered 20x0.1 20x0.2 20x0.3 3mm shims for $14.10 delivered thats from hongkong Gota love the internet


    My gut thinks 0.4 will be the right height with 128-130 jets but we will see
    That's the one man.
    I get a shit load of parts from HK, go eBay!

    Are you pulling the plugs when you change the carb settings?
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
    PM me

  5. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by ducatilover View Post
    That's the one man.
    I get a shit load of parts from HK, go eBay!

    Are you pulling the plugs when you change the carb settings?
    no i haven't been pulling the plugs that takes to long. But really at this sage im no where near fine tuning it. I'll fix all my "issues" then fine tune it.

    any idea what a dyno with gas analysis costs ?

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ultrasonic2 View Post
    no i haven't been pulling the plugs that takes to long. But really at this sage im no where near fine tuning it. I'll fix all my "issues" then fine tune it.

    any idea what a dyno with gas analysis costs ?
    Most of my tuning has been almost spot on before dyno time, it's do-able with carbs. Just do it once and properly.
    Also, there's no point if you haven't done your valve clearances (same goes for balancing) or if you have cam chain stretch (throws your valve timing out a bit.)

    It should go -
    Valves/cam timing.
    Balance carbs.
    Tuning.
    Skids.

    $75 down here last time I did it, probably a bit more in Auckland?
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
    PM me

  7. #52
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    i replaced the cam chain and tensioner 3 months ago and the spark plugs and had the valves re shimmed

    ooooo i just found a unrestricted CDI (for the hp limit) for my bike. i want it

    i haven't found them before

  8. #53
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    Is the CDi an SP model one? If you find any 250SP parts, snap them up.
    Yours is before the 40hp law isn't it?

    Good that you've done the cam chain, it's a weak point on the ZXR
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
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  9. #54
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    yes mines limited to 45 by law

  10. #55
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    I never knew they were limited to 45, I know they went to 40 in late '93 (from memory)
    What kind of power do you expect with a de-restricted CDI? I'd love to get a ZXR250SP, but they're insanely rare, almost non-existant
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
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  11. #56
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    yeah that why the ZXR CBR and FZR of the same age all make the same hp of a rather round 45hp . by the way i have owned all of them now

  12. #57
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    I haven't owned any, but I've ridden one of each Fizzer250, and a million MC19's, MC22's and ZXRA&C models.
    My personal choice was the MC22, I just can't turn them down.
    I think the 3LN3 onwards Fizzer looks absolutely hot and I'd love to have one, just to look at.
    The ZXR never seemed to suit me, great bike though, no doubt about that. I'd own one, but I'd rather throw a leg over a CBR.

    I've never lined them up together though, but most seem to make 34-36hp at the wheel, so the biggest difference would be gear ratios I suppose.

    What's your pick of the lot?
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
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  13. #58
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    Well I have had an interesting experience with them so I wouldn’t pic a winner
    The first one was a fzr and it handled really well but wasn’t that fast.in the end it had a rusty tank and forks so sometimes you had no brakes .
    Then I got the cbr mc19 it was mind blowingly fast that it was actually slow. Dyno’d it and it got more and 50hp at the wheel which seemed to shock redbaron but all the power was over 18k which mean it was SOOOO slow at normal rpms. If I wanted to pass anyone on the moterway I would have to change down like 3 gears. Off at the lights it kind of sucked cos I had to get to the 18k. on a club ride it was also kinda crap cos I didn’t want to ride at 18k + for 6 hours cos I was afraid it would explode. SO it was fast but 99.9 % of the time the power was unusable and was ultimately slow in traffic. The bikes handling wasn’t as good as the FZR too. The mc19 doesn’t have adjustable shoks which I think was part of the problem. It may have just needed new shock oil. It doesn’t matter now as it died.

    ZXR handles really really well and currently isn’t as fast as the cbr and probably never would be. Im not going for peek power this time cos I learnt my lesson on that one. Im more interested in at acceleration at 8-12k which is where I ride

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ultrasonic2 View Post
    Well I have had an interesting experience with them so I wouldn’t pic a winner
    The first one was a fzr and it handled really well but wasn’t that fast.in the end it had a rusty tank and forks so sometimes you had no brakes .
    Then I got the cbr mc19 it was mind blowingly fast that it was actually slow. Dyno’d it and it got more and 50hp at the wheel which seemed to shock redbaron but all the power was over 18k which mean it was SOOOO slow at normal rpms. If I wanted to pass anyone on the moterway I would have to change down like 3 gears. Off at the lights it kind of sucked cos I had to get to the 18k. on a club ride it was also kinda crap cos I didn’t want to ride at 18k + for 6 hours cos I was afraid it would explode. SO it was fast but 99.9 % of the time the power was unusable and was ultimately slow in traffic. The bikes handling wasn’t as good as the FZR too. The mc19 doesn’t have adjustable shoks which I think was part of the problem. It may have just needed new shock oil. It doesn’t matter now as it died.

    ZXR handles really really well and currently isn’t as fast as the cbr and probably never would be. Im not going for peek power this time cos I learnt my lesson on that one. Im more interested in at acceleration at 8-12k which is where I ride
    An MC19 making over 50hp at the wheel? How on earth did someone manage that! I've heard of 38 in a good, full exhaust, no airbox MC22....

    To be fair, any sort of peak power from a 4cyl 250 still won't be much. My 90+hp at the wheel doesn't feel stupidly fast to me.
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul in NZ View Post
    Ha...Thats true but life is full horrible choices sometimes Merv. Then sometimes just plain stuff happens... and then some more stuff happens.....




    Alloy, stainless and Ti polishing.
    Bling your bike out!
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  15. #60
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    Stupidly fast was in comparison to the fzr250

    yeah well in my experience their has been two problems with 400 and 250 owners

    1 people bolt on parts and dont change the fueling or they come to a forum and get told a whole bunch of rubbish and still dont get the fuelling right. hardly any of them get their bike gas realized on a dyno to get the fuelling right

    2 no one deals with the fundamental issue even though they agree there is a limiting factor and that is the HP limit. if you dont remove the HP limit adding bolt on parts wont make that much difference upto. im sure i'll get over 40hp on the dyno because im dealing with it's issues. fuelling and the hp limiter.


    The mc22 would probably be a 40hp limited bike, that doesn't mean you can't get more than 40hp out of it though. i might point out that the 400's are also HP limited

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