Okay... here's something I've posted a few times
I paid $4750 for a 95 with 45,000 miles on the clock. four and a half years later it's now done 86,000 miles (141,000 kms).
I've found it to be pretty hard on front tyres - it tends to triangulate them, but its got a front-heavy bias so not unexpected. Avon Viper fronts don't last long but the grip is great. I recommend Avon Storm front and rear, however I've had success with Z6s as well and next week I'm putting some Conti Road Attacks on so I'll let y'all know how they work out.
The lack of a fuel gauge is a pain - especially with a reserve that lasts a good 80-90 kms. I get 300kms before it hits reserve and the tank holds 21.5 litres from empty. A real nana might get 400 kms from a tank.
Big problems with the carbs around the 100,000 kms mark. Pay attention to the needle jets and the emulsion tubes they run in - its a problem with Mikuni downdraught carbies - friction as the jet needle slides and it wears the needles and emulsion tubes. I've replaced mine with the carbs from the 135HP MantaRay model, and run a K&N air filter, ignition advance and debaffled exhaust and it flies.
There's a known problem with the alternator cush drive - in some of the earlier models (94, 95) the drive for the alternator failed and they replaced a part to stop it snapping - unfortunately this part only lasts about 20,000 kms so needs to be checked often - and its a prick to get at too.
See here on this site for complete instructions on how to fix it.
Don't leave it lying around in the rain because it won't run on four cylinders afterwards. It's a problem with the water either getting into the coils or the low-tension leads just behind the headstock. My solution is to smear Vaseline into the low tension connections as they exit the wiring loom and as they enter the coils. My RF doesn't have any problems starting after sitting in the pouring rain all day. Others have had problems with the spark plug boots but not me, so I'm hesitant to say its an RF problem.
I've also noticed that as the miles get up you get a bit of problems with the electrics to the instrument panel. The wires run through the frame and a bit of chafing here can cause issues with the lights on the instrument panel not working - its an earthing problem - rewrap the wires and it should fix it.
The brakes are non-standard for a Suzuki (Nissin - normally found on Hondas) but they will take the Tokicos from the Hayabusa which apparently is a mod worth doing.
The whole bottom end (with the exception of the clutch) is straight out of the GSXR1100 so its bulletproof. Others overseas have commented on the hardening on 2nd gear going and causing problems but consensus of opinion seems to be that wheeliing the bike while preloading second ain't good for it.
The RF has a steel perimeter frame so in the unlikely event of a bent frame at least it is actually fixable, unlike an alloy frame.
Most RFs have about 125 at the crank, but you can get a lot, lot more. To meet American emission standards in the later models (S2 and later) they did the same trick as on the gixxers - look for the pink wire just under the battery on the gear lever side - more midrange power in 3rd gear if you undo it. You can drill and remount the digital pickup as they will easily take another 4 or 5 degrees of advance. Also, putting in the cams from the 92 GSXR750 will help liberate even more power. With these two mods and a rejet you could get 160HP.
Good for 265km/hr on a good day. Best kept secret in motorcycling..
Mine has just hit 141,000 and although cosmetically it could do with a bit of work, mechanically it's perfectly sound, if you ignore that seal on the front sprocket case that makes the chain a bit icky...
Here's some articles and posters elsewhere on the site.
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