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Thread: DR250 clutch replacement

  1. #1
    Join Date
    11th January 2009 - 09:11
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    DR250 clutch replacement

    Hey guys - I've been learning the hard way by taking things apart and fixing them. So far I've completely stripped my front caliper, stripped the master cylinder, replaced the brake rotors, both sprockets, the chain, fitted a braided line etc.

    I mention all of that because before I did that, I really didn't know anything at all. I am noticing that it's definitely time to replace my clutch friction plates. So here comes the question - should I attempt this myself. I know it requires me to split the case which I've never done before.

    Anyone done this with a DR? Are there any gotchas? Do I need any special tools? Are there gaskets I will need to replace?

    Out of curiosity, anyone know what the clutch plates are worth if I buy them and what a shop would charge to just do it?

    Thanks.

    P.
    The chances of anything coming from Mars are a million to one, he said.

  2. #2
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    29th January 2008 - 16:09
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    It cost me $250 for parts and labour to do the clutch plates on my GB250 at Nelson Suzuki.

  3. #3
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    20th May 2007 - 12:04
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    From memory:

    - Bike on to l/h side (so no oil will escape)
    - Kick start off
    - r/h motor side cover off.
    - clutch springs screws out and off
    - plates and fibre ones out.
    - all back in reverse order.
    - if you ripped gasket when taking apart you might need a new gasket. But a good gasket glue will do to patch up.

    Plates should be approx $15 each new. You probably need 5 or six.

    First check that there is some slack in the clutch cable. And that the clutch is adjusted so it does not sit on a fraction.

    BUT: I have found on s/h dirtbikes that wrong oil has been used that makes the clutch slip: DO NOT USE CAR OIL!!. Use bike 4 stroke oil that is made for wet clutch. If you are planning to change oil anyhow (approx 2 litres should do, $26 from Super Cheep), then try that first. Get motor warm, empty oil and replace. Take for a ride and approx 10 min of riding will tell you if they are ok or need replacing.

    Good luck.

    May the bridges I burn light the way.

    Follow Vinny's MX racing on www.mxvinny.com


  4. #4
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    11th January 2009 - 09:11
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    Thanks. The oil is definitely correct and the clutch plates have definitely had it. It's been looming for a while now. Has anyone done a DR? Anyone know if you need any special tools or extra-large sockets?
    The chances of anything coming from Mars are a million to one, he said.

  5. #5
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    4th February 2005 - 07:32
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    No special tools or large sockets required (from memory) you don't have to take the clutch hub out so easy job. If you did it's big socket and rattle gun time.

  6. #6
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    11th January 2009 - 09:11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henk View Post
    No special tools or large sockets required (from memory) you don't have to take the clutch hub out so easy job. If you did it's big socket and rattle gun time.
    That's what I was hoping to hear. I've watched enough YouTube videos that I'm tempted to give it a go. I'm sure I'll break something - but hey, that's part of the learning. Anyone done a DR recently and able to confirm that you don't have to take out the clutch hub?
    The chances of anything coming from Mars are a million to one, he said.

  7. #7
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    4th February 2005 - 07:32
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    Quote Originally Posted by paddy View Post
    Anyone done a DR recently and able to confirm that you don't have to take out the clutch hub?
    Nope but have taken any number of bikes to bits over the years and have never found it neccesary.

  8. #8
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    15th August 2004 - 17:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by paddy View Post
    I know it requires me to split the case which I've never done before.
    It is not considered 'splitting the cases' to remove the clutch cover. Splitting the cases means stripping the crankcases off the crank... a much more serious operation.

    Replacing clutch places is pretty simple stuff. On my '01 DR-Z250 the tough job was removing a footpeg mounting bolt that was munted from rock impacts. Had to remove that so the clutch cover could come off. I did the job with the bike on the sidestand, eff all oil came out. Everything else was simple home-mechanic stuff. Take care, note if parts are different which way they fit, which order they go in. Take note of how it was, and compare this to how the book says it should be - some clown may have worked on the bike previously so it may not be correct - and check the new parts look like they will assemble the same way, in case you got the wrong parts. In other words: the usual!

    Haven't heard of any bikes that need the clutch hub to be removed to change clutch plates - but I have only worked on fairly normal stuff.

    Don't forget the friction plates should be soaked in oil before assembly. Some of the plates in clutches are slightly different and need to be installed in a particular order (eg first one, or first & last ones, or middle one are different) and sometimes the right way up but this latter is usually forced upon you by wider 'keys' on the plates' edges or something.

    You'll be fine.
    Cheers,
    Colin

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve McQueen
    All racers I know aren't in it for the money. They race because it's something inside of them... They're not courting death. They're courting being alive.

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