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Thread: The most amazing chain lube ever

  1. #46
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    15th August 2009 - 16:48
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    Quote Originally Posted by peasea View Post
    You young'uns have it soooo easy, everythings in an aerosol these days isn't it? When I was a boy.............we had a product from Duckhams that came in a can large enough to hold your whole chain. It looked a bit like soft candle wax. You plonked your chain in, sitting on top of the goop, then placed the can on the gas hob (much to mum's delight) and heated it until the goop was liquid, then gently lifted your chain out with a length of wire or something.

    This shit really got into (and onto) your chain and made refitting your chain a bit of a greasy hassle. Heaven help you if you spilled any in the kitchen too, which I can recall doing more than once.

    Ahh, those were the days.

    (So glad they're gone, I gotta belt now and that works just fine.)

    Haha yes - I had a bit of a slop factor with it once as I moved towards the garage, "balancing" the molten mass by holding the side of the tin with pliers.

    Mum, God bless her, took it with the resigned good grace that she applied to all the other crap her four sons dished out to her during our teenage years.

  2. #47
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    9th November 2006 - 18:42
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    It may be just that he liked the product so much he now stocks it. Makes good sense to me.

  3. #48
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    2nd January 2005 - 06:18
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    So which Prolan product is the one to use?

  4. #49
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    22nd April 2009 - 20:02
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    Prolan sell their medium grade lube in a can, that is what I am using on the Scorpios chain. Just remember to shake the can so that the product is mixed up, and wait a couple of hours for the carrier to evaporate. Prolan also works as a cleaner as well; instead of degreasing the bloody chain with kero, just give the chain a good soaking with prolan while scrubbing with a toothbrush. Spin the chain while wiping off the excess with a paper towel and the chain is good to go. Afterwords I go over any parts of the bike that need protection, I even wipe down the exhaust pipe with Prolan. Zero rust after almost a year exposed to the Hokitika rains. I love this product: MADE IN NZ!!!

  5. #50
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    25th September 2009 - 16:55
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    Quote Originally Posted by peachvw View Post
    So which Prolan product is the one to use?
    hahah this still havnt been aswered properly........ so medium grade in can as suggested by 888?
    im in the market for new lube.. since mine goes EVeryWhere.

    and how much does it cost and where can we get some from? in aucks region?

    Sorry if this was answered b4, im a baddd reader. :P

    thanks!

  6. #51
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    3rd November 2007 - 07:46
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  7. #52
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    29th December 2008 - 14:42
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    Says on their website they are going to be at CD Field Days 18th March 2010 Site 43.
    Might pay them a visit and grab some.

  8. #53
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    3rd November 2007 - 07:46
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    Quote Originally Posted by ezirider View Post
    Says on their website they are going to be at CD Field Days 18th March 2010 Site 43.
    Might pay them a visit and grab some.
    Bay Engineer Supplies apparently sell it. Next to QEC Rangatikei St.
    Nunquam Non Paratus

  9. #54
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    3rd November 2007 - 07:46
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    Thread Dredge

    Ok, I've been using Prolan "Heavy" for the last few months and it really is good!

    Here's what I found.

    Positives:

    1. It lasts quite a while +700km no problem.
    2. It is very fling resistant - more like a dry wax.
    3. Chain doesn't need to be warm before application.
    4. Much cheaper than any chain lube/wax in a can and can be purchased in bulk.
    5. Highly resistant to water/cleaning products, so no need to re-lube chain after cleaning bike.
    6. Prolan is awesome for cleaning off existing Prolan on the chain.
    7. Sprocket cover does not build up in a gunky mess.
    8. Rollers don't stick and remain movable.
    9. Has many other uses, including rust protection, waterproofing, protecting electrical connections etc.
    10. It's not sticky/tacky.
    11. Can be applied with a brush.

    Negatives:

    1. Doesn't like foreign lube, so chain should be thoroughly cleaned/dried (kero) before first application.
    2. Application is messy and product drips/runs before the carrier dries. Ground mat essential.
    3. It's a little more difficult to apply than "lube in a can", because it's a trigger bottle.
    4. You tend to use more product than needed.

    Overall I rate this product and will continue to use it. Now that I've got beyond the first WTF messy application that is!
    Nunquam Non Paratus

  10. #55
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    30th September 2010 - 20:48
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    Chain upgrade kits

    I'm really surprised that someone hasn't come up with a universal retrofit upgrade to driveshaft kit.

    You remove the chain and bolt on the driveshaft kit and wallah, no more chain lubrication to worry about.

    Might start work on making these myself.

  11. #56
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    3rd November 2007 - 07:46
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    Some of us like to get our hands dirty

    Shafts are for cars!
    Nunquam Non Paratus

  12. #57
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    24th July 2006 - 11:53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Owl View Post
    3. It's a little more difficult to apply than "lube in a can", because it's a trigger bottle.
    Haven't seen it in a squirty bottle. Can be got in an aerosol and in a light and heavy grease form also.

    And yes, it's just sheep squeezings, but it has some surprising qualities. Outstanding lubrication ain't one of them, but it's not bad, and with O-ring chains the main objective is rustproofing.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  13. #58
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    3rd November 2007 - 07:46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocean1 View Post
    Haven't seen it in a squirty bottle. Can be got in an aerosol and in a light and heavy grease form also.

    And yes, it's just sheep squeezings, but it has some surprising qualities. Outstanding lubrication ain't one of them, but it's not bad, and with O-ring chains the main objective is rustproofing.
    Yeah I've seen the aerosol and purchased the heavy grease/anti-seize, which I also find very good.
    The liquid form comes in 3 grades light, medium, heavy and comes with free squirty bottle. After 2 months, I've only used 300ml and I'm using it for all sorts of things, so it's going further than first thought.
    Nunquam Non Paratus

  14. #59
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    17th February 2005 - 11:36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spukey View Post
    I'm really surprised that someone hasn't come up with a universal retrofit upgrade to driveshaft kit.

    You remove the chain and bolt on the driveshaft kit and wallah, no more chain lubrication to worry about.

    Might start work on making these myself.
    How big a shaft do you think we'd need for 160RWHP? Some performance cars use carbonfibre driveshafts for strength and weight reduction... and there's a guy in NZ who does a pretty awesome job of making these (tubes, not driveshafts... that's where you'd come in and make your millions).

  15. #60
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    19th August 2007 - 18:49
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    Quote Originally Posted by dipshit View Post
    Have now decided to change tactics completely and try cleaning the chain with kerosene more regularly and only applying a silicone lubricant spray.
    I've been very pleased with the results of just using a silicone spray lubricant on my chain.

    Hardly ever have to adjust it these days. (maybe a bit of a tweak every 6000 ks or so)

    Certainly adjusting the 600's chain far less often since switching to a silicone spray from conventional chain lubes.

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